First ride @7500Watts / 10000watts

[El_Steak]

No snow or ice on the road anymore so I decided to go for my first ride with my winter project.

Rear 9c
Methods 100v 100A controller
18s3p Lipo (+-75volts fully charged)

Holy sh1t, this thing pops wheelies like there's no tomorrow

Now recharging and will reconfigure the pack to 24s2p (10000 watts)

 

[TMaster]

Wow 7500 Watts very nice! Yeah When you get up into 100+ amps it gets crazy! What kind of bike do you have it on?

 

[El_Steak]

Its on a TidalForce S750 frame bought from Oatnet. It's got disk brakes fat Maxxis Hookwork tires and a front suspension. Handles great. Went up to 65kph.

 

[dogman dan]

Now yer talking. I suppose the vent holes in the side covers are pretty big? Has to be fun 8)

 

[Ypedal]

hehe.. welcome to the club ! makes it hard to go back to 500w if you ever do, that extra zero makes all the difference !!!

Re-check your axle nuts for the first few rides !!!

 

[El_Steak]

Now yer talking. I suppose the vent holes in the side covers are pretty big? Has to be fun 8)

I'm going to have to make them bigger. Gets too hot too fast. 100C+ in just a couple of minutes at full throttle!

 

[GrayKard]

I'm going to have to make them bigger. Gets too hot too fast. 100C+ in just a couple of minutes at full throttle!

Just zip tie a couple frozen steaks to the motor and in a few miles you can have lunch.

I'm pulling 2kw on takeoff but I can hardly imagine what that beast must be like. Do you have any problem with wheel spin or do those hookworms bite pretty good?

Gary

 

[El_Steak]

Do you have any problem with wheel spin or do those hookworms bite pretty good?

They bite hard, no wheel spin, hence the wheelies

With my butt, the motor and batteries on the back, most of the weight is there so it helps with traction. I haven't tried flooring it from a dead stop, I'm a bit concerned about spinning the axel (eventhough I have beefy torque arms.) The wheelies are from a rolling start!

I will try a higher voltage (100V) and lower amps (maybe 60-75) to see if its easier on the motor temperature.

 

[Doctorbass]

Great to see you are now in the rediculous power club EL_steak!

Most of the time what make your motor hot is hard and frequent stop and go!

Mine(5305) go easy to 140 celsius during summer in some offroad trails near the Rivière St-Charles cycle path.

I would love to race with you ..

mine is ready for spring!.. i'll remove the chains on the tires soon.

BTW will you ath the EV meet near Victoriaville on 13 june ?.. A BIG Quebec EV meet of every Electric transportation hobbyist!!

Doc

 

[El_Steak]

Alright, 10000watts is well 25% more fun than 7500 watts.

I just did a 10km ride with the bike in 24s2p Lipo config. It really hauls ass on take off and climbs steep hills as fast as my car. Feels much more like a motorcycle than a bike now.

I also took a ride on a long stretch of flat road and quickly reached 81kph (50mph) ! I was down to about 60% capacity in my battery so I'm sure it could do a bit more on a fresh new charge.

The weak link in my setup is definately the motor. It gets way hot way fast. Its not helping that I have a high RPM/watt motor (10x6) but after all the time spent changing the wires, adding the temp sensor, drilling the holes and truing the wheel, I don't really feel like changing it. I just want to ride the bike

The lipo batteries are quite amazing. They are barely sagging at 100+ amps. Methods controller was still cool to the touch after both rides.

 

[Doctorbass]

Ah ha!! nice to see you can top the 50MPH ! :wink:

I had experience with 9C motor overheat.. and the major weak part is the phase wire that melt the teflon ! ( it take at least 260 celsius for teflon to melt)

and finally short one or more phases.

Usually these sealed motor have the class H winding insulation varnish so ABSOLUTE the max temp is 180 celsius. I allow my X5 to go 135 celsius continuous and sometime to peak at 164 Celsius.

Methods ever did 420F ( 215 celsius) with his X5 and completly roasted the winding!! at 220A 100V quick ride with alot of stop and go

The thermometer probe inside the motor and carefull temp monitoring will probably save it against destructive overtemp.

As speed increase as Power tend to become non linear so the power increase faster than linear relationship.



I did a quick simulation using the SWbluto simulator Java ( but using the 2806) and compensated some parameters for the winding difference and here is what i got:

as you can see, on the simulation, the requested power and the motor power are crossing together at around 82kph.

According to the curve you would need 12 000 Watts for 100kph

 

[El_Steak]

Usually these sealed motor have the class H winding insulation varnish so ABSOLUTE the max temp is 180 celsius. I allow my X5 to go 135 celsius continuous and sometime to peak at 164 Celsius.

Geez, I had mine at 135C after just a bit of hill climbing. Outside temp was only 10C today!. That's not gonna work this summer when its over 30C outside.

as you can see, on the simulation, the requested power and the motor power are crossing together at around 82kph. According to the curve you would need 12 000 Watts for 100kph

Thanks for the info. That motor would definately be a better fit in a 20" wheel. I almost bought one from YPedal. He did a nice 20" R / 24" F bike with a TidalForce frame. In the end I decided against it to keep the bike as stealthy as possible. It's going to be my daily commuter and I'd rather stay low key (but fast ).

I think I'll keep the bike configured in 18s3p (75V max). I have long stretches of flat road on my commute so the motor should stay cool at full throttle around 60 kph.

The next one will be something with dual motor in 20" wheels...

 

[NeezyDeezy]

Alright, 10000watts is well 25% more fun than 7500 watts.

33%

 

[El_Steak]

33%

Doe!

 

[John in CR]

You really should program the controller to lower maximum current. Since it's your commuter, you probably don't want to ventilate it, and at max settings you'll burn up a sealed 9c for sure. Your top speed won't change, it will just take a bit longer to get there, and it will reduce the propensity to wheelie as well as reduce your chances of motor meltdown.

 

[El_Steak]

Its already ventilated (drilled) and the phase wires are upgraded to 12g. I`ve got a temp sensor inside the motor with the display on my handle bar so I can monitor the temp while riding.

I will probably lower the max current to something less crazy to save up on the batteries.

For a high power setup like that, I think that the best accessory to have is the Crystalyte 3-speed selector. I`ve programmed it so that in "Low" mode, its running up to the legal speed only, in "Medium" mode I can commute at 30-35mph and in "high mode" I can have some fun (at the expense of the motor).

There's a way to add a POT to the Cycle Analyst to adjust the current limit on the fly. That would also be a very useful upgrade with a high power setup.

 

[methods]

Glad you are having a good time.

I have been running a 9x7 9C in a 20" wheel with the controller settings maxed out.
My hub is drilled to the extreme.
300A off the line - 150A for a few seconds - amazing power.

With normal hard riding you are fine, but any sort of slow stop and go wheelie stuff and it will overheat quick in only a minute or two.
I took my 9C up over 200C (on the windings and on Video) and it still runs fine.
I would not hesitate to ride it at 160C all the time.

With a pair of 9C motors in 20" wheels it would be an absolute monster
I ran a pair of 9x7 9C's in 26" wheels and they did not even get warm. Understand though that the front wheel will do nothing but burn rubber. I would run about a 35A limit on the front and 100A limit on the back.

You can let a lot of smoke out of a 9C before it gets damaged. Just about every time I ride mine smoke comes out the holes

-methods

(Disclaimer - I have ten 9C hubs in my garage and I don't care if I smoke one so... if you follow in my footsteps be prepared to buy replacement parts )