Phasor/cro /meth24fet/fans/ca3/HVC LVC don't do what I do!!!

dimpirate

100 W
Joined
Dec 19, 2011
Messages
184
Location
Ft lauderdale FL
Haven't posted in a bit but this is kind of connected to little bit of everything. Just like posted above.
2nd build, frocked up everything I could in first :D that's another story.
So phasor-cycles.com frame, methods HVC/LVC [urlhttp://www.methtek.com/category/battery-protection/][/url]and methods 24 fethttp://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=47512, 8s 5800ah zippy compact http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=33182 12 packs for 24s 23.2Ah 100.8v of charger.

Oh I just remembered the name I gave it
The hack job

Ok back to it.
Ice cube custom battery harness http://lipoconnectionsolutions.com/.
Cromotor from zombiess http://greyborgusa.com/

Bad ass downhill components , forks, rear suspension, brakes, motorcycle rim and tires
In short a bad ass mofo
:twisted:
I ride long distances to work 15-30 miles one way. I'd make it on my 1st build 18s20Ah hs3540 Hard tail mountain bike with battery in frame bag, but had to ride conservatively (on 30 mile trip) staying at around 25-30mph. Any faster and I'd be pedaling the last mile or two.
I was looking for more speed, range, comfort, and safety! Though my old bike would ride up to 46mph and built similarly to May 40+ ebikes on ES, I felt and saw that and these constant speeds (closer to 30) the bike was not holding up...
Riding 50 on new bike feels like 30 on old one..

I'm always in a rush cause it travel for work mostly, so time at home is precious especially when I'm leaving for a few months.
And of course one of those times coincides with getting frame and components (SO DONT RUSH or do like me)

100V max on methods controller that what I'm going for

How to fit 100V in frame..hmmm
Most 6s packs don't fit side by side in phasor frame,
Not the biggest problem. There's compacts 5s and other solutions...
That's if I didn't also want to fit in 24 fet controller.
Space is smaller...
So not settling for less than 100V the most ah I could get was with 8s zippy compact packs. Funky placement inside of frame to make work. (In pics)
Using 8s packs meant I needed to use 6 lvc/HVC boards, more wiring.
Also in 8s packs two 4s plugs come out DO NOT PLUG INTO SAME PARALLEL BOARd
They will fry Good thing I ordered extra pack.
And then I fried another just wires though Soldered back up and good to go. :D
Cabling this that and the other. Fitting fuses, and most off all again because I was leaving town in a day or two and had to ride before then, I could have ordered some 4s extensions and made a bit more room too.
A few more sparks, thanks to meth for loaning me a few extras.
Ok I know it wasn't this smooth but anyways I was riding!!
Fast as hell 56 mph tops up to 17 kW pulls. Yeaaaa!!
Awesome but controller overheats to quickly inside frame, good thing it has 70c shutoff (though it did shut down on me while trying to get over a few lanes... Not pleasant. No good for any long rides even driving conservatively (slow acceleration) once controller warmed up inside frame it would have no way to let out heat.
And then I left for pretty much 4 months...

I'm back. Ok here's the catch. I could just heatsink controller to frame but... For me to get controller out id have to dismantle battery packs lots of wiring to much hassle.
I decided to use fans instead, again project make some more room where there is none... Got three fans in running in series. , yea fried the 4th :-/ Running of cav3 along with rear light with dc plug. Also installed temp sensor on controller
Outside of box by heatsink.
That didn't help much... Found myself having to remove cover of frame anyways to do 15 m trip would have had to even for 5m.
Forgot to mention I over padded inside frame so getting packs in and out literally involved two hands and some body weight. frock it I was in a rush and wasn't changing nothing. :p
So the nightmare. Last thing I want to do is pull packs out to remove controller from frame And risk more beautiful sparks.
But oh well I guess this is about a week ago.
Dismantled 6 8s packs fans wiring aghhhh (don't overstuff things) to get controller out.
Damn mission, all done (a day of hell later) controller heat sunk to frame 2 fans inside, made some more room using 4s extensions. Things where looking good!

Backing up not so good(how soon the bad is forgotten) after I had battery pack back together in frame packs where pretty balanced. I plugged in bulk charger and HVC breaker wouldn't let it charge... Had bypass breaker which defeats the whole purpose of having it!?!! Ok I'm jumping around.

The good thing is that the heat sink done the job!!M!!!
Whatever solve one problem make another... :idea:

Till now I hadn't used ca3 throttle, figured it would be a good time to switch from controller.
Booted up new software and did setup. Throttle set up as well, felt some jumpy ness riding. Put the bike back on sling and tested again. I realized that when fans where on I was getting different throttle V readings. So if fans where on I'd be stopped at 0 throttle and when of wheel would spin.

So stressing over my LVC/HVC not understanding what the hell was happening with fans, I unplugged them. That is a dc jack fed from ca3 100v.
Like a dumbass I didn't cover plug. Wohoooo :shock: more sparks and then more :cry:
CA was out blank screen. Throttle jerked for a second and shut down.. It was late at night so I just plugged my CA v2 into ca controller plug, it turned on, and, figured it should work no problem next day.

After emailing ebikes.ca and receiving reply from justin. I decided to get new ca3 shipped, and fix this one later cause I'm in a hurry.

So ca2 isn't responding either...dammit (plus lots of stressing)
Got ca3 1 day later, still nothing
Did some checking everything was working, not so sure about halls... 1 hall burnt
That's when methods came into picture. He helped me a bunch in last 24 hrs
And discovered info that can be useful to all.
When dc jack shorted it also burnt hall, because thermistor was connected using 1 extra hall (cromotor vs 2 has 2 sets)
For everyone whit Ca3 beware of what you plug in and what affect it will have on everything.
Justin said better to stick just to lights.
So fans 2x48V fans in series causes throttle to be erratic, and also screwed with methods HVC breaker. After fans unplugged everything worked again!

Hall is f. Methods walked me through most of the testing, I proceed to open up motor and swap hall. Cool... No!
wrong freekin hall! Hehe. I got my practice in today learnt how to replace 2 halls for the sake of one. Anyways it getting late... More like early. This will evolve. Jb weld is drying will test motor tomorrow. Halls checked with magnet and working. Hope there not sticking to far into stator.....anyways frock It how much worse can it get .... I'm in a hurry!! 8)

Don't have computer working at moment so I will post all build picks I have in Facebook and post link. Coming up
Good night

Fred
 
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Damnit... Not sure what to do photos are set to public. Maybe have to be on Facebook to view??..
To complicated anyone know of easier way to upload pics. No computer at moment just iPad....

Still working on bike just finished closing hub back up. Wheel is back in dropouts. Halls checked prior to closure.
Good to go...
Without motor being plugged in I am getting lots of resistance when trying to spin tire. Can't be hall or phase problem :roll:
Let me double check cromotor v2 technical thread, maybe I haven't closed motor properly..
Any other ideas?
 
The space issue on those frames is the reason I did not go for one, just not enough battery room.


I can see pics
 
Yea Neil if it was about 5-6mm wider it would be perfect.

Anyone who has taken of cromotor covers know, once I put covers back on if installed correctly should I be able to spin axle easily by hand? Or for that matter any hub motor.
I applied a bit more pressure with gear puller, a few taps with rubber mallet, still getting spinning resistance (motor unplugged). Guess I could open her up again, I'll wait a bit maybe someone has better idea.
 
You have to be a member of the Facebook to see their photos. Its a closed network. Believe it or not, Most of the world doesn't use Facebook, And most big companies block access to facebook at their firewall.

Try Photobucket, or google's picasa. I'm a Photobucket user. http://www.photobucket.com/
 
Downloaded photo bucket and uploading pics. Give you guys link in a bit.
Back with bike got hub to spin with a lot of patience took both covers back off and started over.
On to next problem.... Halls are toggling between 0-5V But when I plug in phase wires wheel stiffens up again, a bit of throttle very bumpy. Color combo should be same as before, don't know what's wrong I hope I didn't screw up halls instal. Besides voltage toggling with multimeter is there another way to be sure halls are working properly?
 
Sounds like halls are OK if toggling 0-5v . Did you check the controller with multi meter?
There's a trouble shooting guide on ebikes.CA that goes into different categories.
So if the wheel is hard to turn by hand at any stage then there's probably a short on phase wires.
If it is vibrating instead of spinning then there's incorrect phase combo or you swaped some hall sensors accidently when replacing.
There's 9 combos in total if you want to cut the wires and go through them all.
Or 3 if you want to just change halls.
 
Thanks for the advice pendragon.
Problem is bigger. Just fried another ca3!!? only thing other than controller hooked up to CA was temp sensor, which was working. There's got to be a short somewhere.
I'm fuckin over it. Gonna take motor and send to methods like he originally offered. Thinking it was just halls to change I didn't take him up on his offer. Again cause I was in a rush.... Hmmm, that sure happens to me a lot.
At this point I don't ever want to see that motor again unless it spins!! (Smoothly that is!)
Oh boy oh well. This is Ebike hell.
Ah whatever gonna go get a drink and relax and speak of the hack job no more.
 
Dimpirate I'm having issues with my motor as well so feel your pain. I'm thinking my hall wire or sensors buggered too. I sent methods a PM asking which wire he put thevsidevpanels heat sensor onto the secon d set of hall wires so hope to get a reply soon. Try and keep your chin up. I know its hard.
 
Rodney halls used where on freewheel side on mine.
And thanks. you already sure halls are the problem?
On my motor one of halls that wasn't being used had severed wire right by stator, this either happened from when I shorted my fans and ca. Or from simple rubbing on the magnets. Non used hall right next to it was starting to show wear in same location so I'm thinking it was rubbing and not short that caused this. Might be what happened to yours

Here are pics hope this works

http://s1365.photobucket.com/user/Dimpirate/library/?sort=3&page=1
 
dimpirate said:
Thanks for the advice pendragon.
Problem is bigger. Just fried another ca3!!? only thing other than controller hooked up to CA was temp sensor, which was working. There's got to be a short somewhere.
I'm fuckin over it. Gonna take motor and send to methods like he originally offered. Thinking it was just halls to change I didn't take him up on his offer. Again cause I was in a rush.... Hmmm, that sure happens to me a lot.
At this point I don't ever want to see that motor again unless it spins!! (Smoothly that is!)
Oh boy oh well. This is Ebike hell.
Ah whatever gonna go get a drink and relax and speak of the hack job no more.
OK I'm putting together killing CA via temp sensor with wheel running rough or not turning and thinking there's a short in the axle wire channel. Like 2 phases and the common neg for halls and temp sensor?
Bit of a stab in the dark but if methods is on the case no doubt he will sort it out like a boss.
 
dimpirate said:
Yea Neil if it was about 5-6mm wider it would be perfect.

Anyone who has taken of cromotor covers know, once I put covers back on if installed correctly should I be able to spin axle easily by hand? Or for that matter any hub motor.
I applied a bit more pressure with gear puller, a few taps with rubber mallet, still getting spinning resistance (motor unplugged). Guess I could open her up again, I'll wait a bit maybe someone has better idea.


I was thinking of more than just wider, It is a great frame design for many uses, but not for what i wanted . I wanted something that was more a road bike / commuter frame, but still full bounce, but with a much bigger frame 'triangle' ..for LOTS more batteries.

Regarding the spinning of the motor issue. Is it electrical or a mechanical issue?

When you took the covers off, did you mark them and put them back in exactly the same place? screw hole for screw hole?

I had this issue with my Xlyte, it was very difficult to turn because when i re assembled, I put the cover back on a couple of holes around from where it was originally.

Alternatively, did the bearings move in the side casings when pulling the side covers off, and then not go back all the way, when rebuilding, thereby putting a side load making them harder to turn?
 
neil
problem is electrical, i took covers of again and placed again. wheel spins freely when not plugged in. i think phase wires are somehow shorted with thermistor....
 
So it spins freely when NOT plugged in to controller.

Well that indicates problem is with controller rather than motor.

if there was phase short in motor, then it would not spin freely, when NOT connected
 
tested controller with lyen tester hit throttle everything seems to be fine...
the only reason i think this is more than just average hall/phase problem is because of CA3 screen going blank 2 times.
first was caused by unplugging fans and shorting dc jack, and two days ago with new ca testing motor after i replaced faulty hall.
so unless controller caused short thru CA plug (dont think so) then im thinking thermistor is somehow shorting together with phase wires....
hope i get message back from methods soon, id like to send to repair, this is beyond my knowledge and pocketbook, when i just keep frying things.
if methods is not available anyone know of anyone else who does motor repairs?
 
dimpirate said:
tested controller with lyen tester hit throttle everything seems to be fine...

With and without CA connected?
With and without thermistor connected?

dimpirate said:
the only reason i think this is more than just average hall/phase problem is because of CA3 screen going blank 2 times.
first was caused by unplugging fans and shorting dc jack, and two days ago with new ca testing motor after i replaced faulty hall.
so unless controller caused short thru CA plug (dont think so) then im thinking thermistor is somehow shorting together with phase wires....
hope i get message back from methods soon, id like to send to repair, this is beyond my knowledge and pocketbook, when i just keep frying things.
if methods is not available anyone know of anyone else who does motor repairs?


First off I'd go with a back to basics approach...unless you have already tried...so just controller and motor and basic three wire throttle...no CA,no thermistor (that connects to CA right? not used my CAv3 yet)
 
yea neil, ive done all test with and without. later on ill check halls again didnt check since ca shorted again.
though same symptoms as first time so im pretty sure at least on hall is damaged.
thanks for the help neil i appreciate it!!
 
I'll pop around and help if you send me the airline tickets :p

not working at moment...got job but signed off due recovery from broken arm...now they find busted tendon so waiting on operation for tendon graft from index finger to thumb...bloody nuisance
 
NeilP said:
I'll pop around and help if you send me the airline tickets :p

not working at moment...got job but signed off due recovery from broken arm...now they find busted tendon so waiting on operation for tendon graft from index finger to thumb...bloody nuisance
sounded tempting till i glanced over and saw you live in UK
i could buy new motor and controller for price of ticket. :)

sucks about arm.
bike accident?
 
dimpirate said:
bike accident?

Nah, tripped over car battery while going to fridge to get bottle of water. it was one of those gas/12v240v powered camping fridge units, ran out of gas so had it running on battery while went to get fresh canister of gas
 
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