After doing weeks of research I decided to commit and build an electric longboard. I went with a turnigy 236kv motor 2 3s 5000mah batteries in series a 70 amp hobbyking blue esc (http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__24564__HobbyKing_70A_ESC_4A_UBEC.html) and a fly sky Gt2B transmitter. After spending the weekend wiring it all together and soldering all the connectors, i plugged in the receiver and realized that the motor will assume that the max or min position of the transmitter throttle is the place to start/ end power delivery is it possible to make it so that the middle is the no motion and then i can squeeze to make it go rather than squezing it to make sure it doesnt. Has anyone else had this issue or could help me figure this out.
First Time Builder needs help with Gt2B
- Thread starter bopper47
- Start date
torqueboards
1 MW
Sounds more like a helicopter or boat ESC and not a CAR ESC. That's why it probably doesn't work. Get at least a car esc that's 120-150amp and 6s. Your putting yourself on this board and you don't want to spend $20 bucks on a lousy ESC 
dannydoyle2
1 mW
- Joined
- May 31, 2016
- Messages
- 19
I actually have the exact same ESC at home because I am currently in the process of motorizing my pennyboard (because that one passes as hand luggage on airplanes) and I thought I'd go for something cheap and small.
I have the same problem that you're having and I'm using the Hobbyking GT2B transmitter. So far I haven't found a solution for that. I got it to work two ways: trigger on neutral does nothing + brake not working or trigger on neutral for brake and actual brake does nothing.
Gotta go with torqueboards here. According to the hobbyking website, it's even listed as an airplane ESC. I overlooked that as well when I bought it. Good thing it was only 20 bucks though.
Right now I'm using it for accelerating only. I can brake with my legs just as well. Plus I'm getting two VESCs from enertionboards soon anyway.
I have the same problem that you're having and I'm using the Hobbyking GT2B transmitter. So far I haven't found a solution for that. I got it to work two ways: trigger on neutral does nothing + brake not working or trigger on neutral for brake and actual brake does nothing.
Gotta go with torqueboards here. According to the hobbyking website, it's even listed as an airplane ESC. I overlooked that as well when I bought it. Good thing it was only 20 bucks though.
Right now I'm using it for accelerating only. I can brake with my legs just as well. Plus I'm getting two VESCs from enertionboards soon anyway.
So after a few weeks and another order from Hobby king I got the blue series esc http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__24718__HobbyKing_70A_BlueSeries_Brushless_Speed_Controller.html
in the mail and wired it up this weekend. I thought it would solve my problems but after running it for a bit I realized that the issue still persists throttle at the lowest position is brake on and that is bad because lifting from there puts me in motion also the brake is all at once and causes the belt to slip even though Im running a 15 mm belt with good tension. Im kinda pissed that Im having so much trouble with the programming because the options are so limited I thought that the brake would be progressive as it seemed to be stated everywhere. at this point Im just looking to figure out a solution that will work as it should with neutral throttle being not moving some throttle down be move and the progressive braking from the reverse throttle I dont believe that the VESC is the only option and I am looking for something under 50$
in the mail and wired it up this weekend. I thought it would solve my problems but after running it for a bit I realized that the issue still persists throttle at the lowest position is brake on and that is bad because lifting from there puts me in motion also the brake is all at once and causes the belt to slip even though Im running a 15 mm belt with good tension. Im kinda pissed that Im having so much trouble with the programming because the options are so limited I thought that the brake would be progressive as it seemed to be stated everywhere. at this point Im just looking to figure out a solution that will work as it should with neutral throttle being not moving some throttle down be move and the progressive braking from the reverse throttle I dont believe that the VESC is the only option and I am looking for something under 50$
sl33py
10 kW
your ESC is a critical component and i would not skimp to save a few $. Get a car ESC at the very least. Safety should be more important than saving a few (or a lot) $'s. Braking is *kinda* important.
If you are already a downhill master and able to brake from >20mph... it's your skin. Anyone who skates infrequently and can foot brake from 10-15mph should not assume they can stop "well enough" w/ footbrake on a e-board that does 20-25mph! IMO.
At those speeds we are talking broken bones and hospital visits are possible.
If you are already a downhill master and able to brake from >20mph... it's your skin. Anyone who skates infrequently and can foot brake from 10-15mph should not assume they can stop "well enough" w/ footbrake on a e-board that does 20-25mph! IMO.
At those speeds we are talking broken bones and hospital visits are possible.
thepronghorn
1 kW
I had the same problem with a CC HV80 esc. What I ended up doing was using an arduino to remap the throttle signal from (1500 - 2000 us) to what the controller wanted (1000 - 2000 us). You could also try reflashing your esc with simonk firmware to get some braking as well as fix the throttle map. You'll have to look into whether your esc is simonk compatible.
WeeChumlee
1 kW
- Joined
- Jul 8, 2015
- Messages
- 346
This is such a reoccurring problem, there are so many posts with people trying to use plane or heli ESCs and then wonder why they do not work as expected.
Probably should be a big sticky headline saying "Don't buy aircraft ESCs!!"
The FVT120 ESC is cheap as chips and is a proven starting ESC for 6S (stated many times over many threads on this forum) - why would one want to risk an even cheaper ESC?
Probably should be a big sticky headline saying "Don't buy aircraft ESCs!!"
The FVT120 ESC is cheap as chips and is a proven starting ESC for 6S (stated many times over many threads on this forum) - why would one want to risk an even cheaper ESC?
have you personally used this esc with the gt2b to confirm the brake would actually work? also this is a 120 amp ESC how am i to know that it wont burn out my motor? the motor is rated at 60 amps so It would make sense if a 120 amps fried it.WeeChumlee said:
sl33py
10 kW
bopper47 said:
by asking the community here who know better. your motor will rarely see 60a or for only a few seconds. A 120a ESC is not likely to kill your motor if you set it up like others (proven or similar gearing, batteries, etc.).
"have you personally" - no. I usually have went with VESC's. DIYes also has some great e-sk8 specific ESC's - both 12s and 6s flavors. Tried/proven. If you want to skimp on esk8 components - the ESC is not where i'd recommend doing it. But hey, maybe you have really good insurance and want some time off work!?
XERUN/EZRUN/FVT are all the known and commonly used RC *CAR* ESC's. Or VESC. Or DIYes ESC's.
One of the folks who have used the FVT mentioned hopefully will chime in too. Possibly w/ settings (don't forget to get a programming card - super important to adjust brakes).
GL!
WeeChumlee
1 kW
- Joined
- Jul 8, 2015
- Messages
- 346
HI
Yes, I have personally used the FVT120 ESC with the GT2B and yes, it did work very well and the braking is very good. (Not quite as smooth as the VESC but still very well)
I am afraid that does not make sense, there is a misunderstanding here.
The ESC is rated at 120A max, that does not mean that it will supply 120A to a 60A motor. It means that it will overheat if more than 120A are drawn. (For a short period of time, one should always overrate the ESC to ensure longer life). Your motor will draw what is required and the ESC will try and supply that current, not the other way around.
Hope that helps a bit.
Yes, I have personally used the FVT120 ESC with the GT2B and yes, it did work very well and the braking is very good. (Not quite as smooth as the VESC but still very well)
I am afraid that does not make sense, there is a misunderstanding here.
The ESC is rated at 120A max, that does not mean that it will supply 120A to a 60A motor. It means that it will overheat if more than 120A are drawn. (For a short period of time, one should always overrate the ESC to ensure longer life). Your motor will draw what is required and the ESC will try and supply that current, not the other way around.
Hope that helps a bit.
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