endrew said:OK, Thanks!
Id like to hear from your experience if that's actually the case?
Yes, some people use asi bac2000 and other 80a+ controllers on it.
endrew said:OK, Thanks!
Id like to hear from your experience if that's actually the case?
Woah that's beautiful! Please post more pics when you do get your hands on it. Do you know the correct Cycle Analyst values for the temperature sensor in these things?CYC has informed me that the black 72v torque sense version will be shipped soon, the version I'm getting. I can't wait to post progress pics of my build for you guys, I have a cycle analyst 3 installed so I'll be tuning optimal settings for that to make up for the weaknesses in the beta app. Here are some of the pictures they sent me:
jdev said:CYC has informed me that the black 72v torque sense version will be shipped soon, the version I'm getting. I can't wait to post progress pics of my build for you guys, I have a cycle analyst 3 installed so I'll be tuning optimal settings for that to make up for the weaknesses in the beta app. Here are some of the pictures they sent me:
It does look like the pressfit torque sensing version since it looks identical to the one in their last facebook post. Torque sensor is built internally, no hole required to be drilled in frame like other torque sensors, I'm just not sure how they're going to connect it electronically.PaulD said:Is that the BB92 press fit version? Interested to see how well that works.
More interested in the torque sensor. I don't see any wires or indication that it's measuring torque at the BB or crank.
hypertoric_amplituhedron said:Wow, I like the new kit in all black, with the torque sensing bb. I run my bike in motorcycle mode the whole time at the moment. The gear sensor adaptation is what I need for realistic PAS riding, but I'd prefer the torque sensor over that any day. I can't stop pedaling to change gears (to trip the PAS sensor for motor cut-off), not intuitive at all, coming from the non-motor cycling world. Without the gear sensor, that's what I would have to do, and it's not going to work for me.
Potted motors can run much cooler. Typically motors are potted wit high thermally conductive epoxy. I KNOW people are going to try running 10,000W through these poor things. Im one of them lol. We're going to see how they hold up compared to cyclones and even the God of mid drives, the Ascent.aCeMadMod said:Hi you asking for alot poted vs unpoted. Motors
I am no pro i would take unpoted motor . I can mod it
Best of luck
SwampDonkey said:Potted motors can run much cooler. Typically motors are potted wit high thermally conductive epoxy. I KNOW people are going to try running 10,000W through these poor things. Im one of them lol. We're going to see how they hold up compared to cyclones and even the God of mid drives, the Ascent.aCeMadMod said:Hi you asking for alot poted vs unpoted. Motors
I am no pro i would take unpoted motor . I can mod it
Best of luck
SwampDonkey said:Potted motors can run much cooler. Typically motors are potted wit high thermally conductive epoxy. I KNOW people are going to try running 10,000W through these poor things. Im one of them lol. We're going to see how they hold up compared to cyclones and even the God of mid drives, the Ascent.
I feel this is the case already (mixed feelings about this..), this motor handles heat in an entirely different league than my Tangent drives. It's also a bit less noisy. Tangent support and further future seems a bit uncertain, to say at least, so this is the new king in my book. Remains to be seen how easy replacement parts are to get by, thinking mainly about freewheels and such.Once cyc work the kinks out, the Ascent will be the choir boy of mid drives, not the god. Loud, expensive, low voltage, incredibly hard on drivetrain, outdated. I wouldn't buy it if they were the same price.
knurf said:Also locktite those case screws, mine's already unscrewed itself and small amount of oil has trickled out on the top (case still firmly together). There can also occur some condensation on the inside of the glass.
Yeah definitely shouldn't torque those too hard. I was referring to the ones on the opposite side, drive side.The problem with tightening it is you might crack the glass overdoing it. They now include full alu side plates for free. I imagine that would deal way better against moisture.
What kind of battery (and limits) do you feed it? For me it seems to oscillate more when the battery struggles to deliver enough current, and lower gears, higher rpm tend to behave a little better in that case. The controller also seems pretty bad at dialing back power when voltage is lower (this is something the CA does very well) and my BMS sometimes shut down due to single cell low when I push it.n2mb said:Has anyone gotten the throttle to work well on the stock 14s controller? It is terrible, even with the latest firmware. Super slow and when you hit the throttle from a stop, the motor oscillates and then shuts down. On PAS it is fine. I can't understand why a simple throttle control could be so hard! It's unbelievable.
Also, has anyone fixed the chain ring wobble? I tried tightening the crank, but it still wobbles when you pedal or freewheel the pedals.
sandyhalo said:Looks like a lightweight mid-motor, can 3000w be achieved?
knurf said:What kind of battery (and limits) do you feed it? For me it seems to oscillate more when the battery struggles to deliver enough current, and lower gears, higher rpm tend to behave a little better in that case. The controller also seems pretty bad at dialing back power when voltage is lower (this is something the CA does very well) and my BMS sometimes shut down due to single cell low when I push it.n2mb said:Has anyone gotten the throttle to work well on the stock 14s controller? It is terrible, even with the latest firmware. Super slow and when you hit the throttle from a stop, the motor oscillates and then shuts down. On PAS it is fine. I can't understand why a simple throttle control could be so hard! It's unbelievable.
Also, has anyone fixed the chain ring wobble? I tried tightening the crank, but it still wobbles when you pedal or freewheel the pedals.
My chainring also wobbles very slightly but its barely noticable (a common problem for all these setups, Tangent included, as far as I have seen). I just keep an eye on it, so it doesn't get any worse.
n2mb said:knurf said:What kind of battery (and limits) do you feed it? For me it seems to oscillate more when the battery struggles to deliver enough current, and lower gears, higher rpm tend to behave a little better in that case. The controller also seems pretty bad at dialing back power when voltage is lower (this is something the CA does very well) and my BMS sometimes shut down due to single cell low when I push it.n2mb said:Has anyone gotten the throttle to work well on the stock 14s controller? It is terrible, even with the latest firmware. Super slow and when you hit the throttle from a stop, the motor oscillates and then shuts down. On PAS it is fine. I can't understand why a simple throttle control could be so hard! It's unbelievable.
Also, has anyone fixed the chain ring wobble? I tried tightening the crank, but it still wobbles when you pedal or freewheel the pedals.
My chainring also wobbles very slightly but its barely noticable (a common problem for all these setups, Tangent included, as far as I have seen). I just keep an eye on it, so it doesn't get any worse.
Good point. I'm using a 14s4p 30q battery. Luna wolf. Should be good for 80A peak.
It doesn't oscillate when using PAS, with the same hard start. Only on throttle...