Guess what! It's an e300 :)

I disabled it after hastle from crazy horses with flat earth views, I'm not far from Brecon, bwlch mountain.
Lol we do lick a window or 2 down here plenty of stars to admire PMSL.
 
Ianhill said:
I disabled it after hastle from crazy horses with flat earth views, I'm not far from Brecon, bwlch mountain.
Lol we do lick a window or 2 down here plenty of stars to admire PMSL.
Click to expand...
[emoji1787][emoji1787][emoji1787]
I'll Google it

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Keep it on here fella easier all round I'll change setting on my PM.
 
I picked up that evo scooter for 100 quid. Was advertised as 48v 1000w but when I checked it out turns out its 60v 2000w which is pretty cool. It needs a bit of TLC but I'll get there. I stuck 4x 18v batteries in there and put a 15t sprocket on the motor, all runs ok. 1st thing is new headset bearings!! Only goes 27mph, I thought I'd get more if I'm honest, all parameters are there. Must be the drill batteries not having the bollocks, individuallyrics they are 18v 4ah 72wh.
Any ideas?
Any standard mods for these type of scooters?

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Also I want to stop using my makita batteries for my scooter so I need some advice on what to do from you guys. I'd like a 72v 20-40ah.
I wouldnt know where to start. Build from scratch, lipo packs strung together?
And advice would be appreciated...

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Makeitfarster said:
Also I want to stop using my makita batteries for my scooter so I need some advice on what to do from you guys. I'd like a 72v 20-40ah.
I wouldnt know where to start. Build from scratch, lipo packs strung together?
And advice would be appreciated...

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Click to expand...

It's hard to tell from the pictures of course, but I'm not sure you'll be able to fit 72V and more than 15Ah in your deck, which would be quite an achievement already.

Anyway, you can build your own battery pack but you'll need to get some knowledge first about how to make it. It's not rocket science, but it might get close to rocket science consequences if you don't know what you're doing, so you dont' want to skip on doing your homework.
Luckily there are lots of resources here in the battery section.

Basically you'll need at least some lithium 18650 cells, something to weld, wires or nickel strips, hot glue, heat shrink tube and a BMS board. What cells to purchase will largely depend on your budget, but I suggest you not to cheap out on cells quality, it's better to go for less capacity and better quality than the opposite. If you want power, go for cells with a high C rating. If you're interested in range, go for higher capacity.
I wouldn't go for lipo unless you really know what you're doing, those things need lots of care and usually don't last very long, plus your powertrain don't justify the use of such high discharge rates, go for safer/more reliable chemistries (plus it'll be cheaper :wink: )
 
This is the evo I picked up for a song.
9284603d342b17bdc2e26d784facfa35.jpg

And with a single makita cell to show size. I could sleep in there!!
c50c4d5fbd9db0d695f17c83bb7d410f.jpg


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Hey Dui. Thanks for the info man, I think best option would be to build my own to fit. I'm quite a clever sausage but I'm also a clumsy stoner so with some helpful diagrams from you smart cookies I reckon I could get it done.

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I've been doing a bit of looking around regarding batteries. Found an app...

46fd156a9cb9527e346d42664589143d.jpg
960e5c1bc258f9b17ac2728a125691e6.jpg


Does this look right to you guys?
First pic looks ok but 32 min ride time is not right. Would that be describing full throttle all the way? Also I'm slightly overvolting the 60w setup

In these makita batteries I'm using 8 of them to make up 72v 8ah and I'm getting nearly an hour (inc a good bit of beasting it) run time.

Would someone have the patience to dumb it down a bit for me please??

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Way off you won't be pulling peak power all the time and if you have regen there's a little top up, pack of that size get you a good hour and half.

I used to have 16s16ah of Lipo and get 14 miles range flat to the boards at 48mph racing white van man through steep twistys but if have a good section of downhill still flat to the boards mind 8krpm same motor as yours singing away, she get hot after that mind I seen a guy water cool his that seen me chuck even more shit it's way. 4.4kw I was at doing all that too sunwin controller soldered up shunt to get more power out of it.


Good read forgot this thread
Experimenting with 32v DC fuses at 48v and 68v
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=83091
 
Bad time to mention I'm not using any fuses at all? [emoji28][emoji28]

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Fairplay to the modern gal proberly like a fwd razor e300 but over 100 years ago crazy
 
Could someone tell me why my 48v controller has 2 x 3 speed connections?

One has 3 wires and one has 2 wires.

Can I short these out to go faster?

Also on my 60v scooter the 2 speed switch does not do anything when I switch it.
Any ideas??

Thanks guys[emoji16]

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Ianhill said:
Fairplay to the modern gal proberly like a fwd razor e300 but over 100 years ago crazy
Click to expand...
And I thought the e scooter was born in the 70s.
Exactly that mate fair play to the bird lol

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Hey everyone! How are we all? I've not posted for a while after a few broken bones from my psychotic 1800w e300.

I've gone down a different path now with a powerboard jobbie. A T-walker 15inch wheel, came with a 1000w moter/controller and a hundred weight of sla batts!!

Made it up to 1800w and threw 9 x 18v makita batteries in it and a 15 tooth front sprocket. I get about 30mph out of it.

Thing is... 2 fuse holders have melted on me (NO BLOWN FUSE!!) One was when I first done it and the second one after a couple of months.

Could anyone enlighten me please??
 
Show us which fuse holder; some types (and some brands) are simply not very good at holding the fuses, so they have high-resistance connections, which heat up with lots of current flow. And/or they use crappy plastic with a low melting point. Another design problem is some fuse holders for glass tube types use a spring to hold the fuse against the contact...but actually run the current *thru* the spring. Since they aren't usually using good spring metal, and they're often really thin, they get pretty hot and then stop being springy, so they don't hold the fuse well anymore, and this makes more heat, which then begins to melt the holder, which makes the connection worse which makes more heat whcih....well, you get the idea. ;)

The fuse itself is relatively high resistance (so that it will overheat and melt (blow) when overcurrent happens for long enough), so it also generates some heat--but unless you're using it near it's rating all the time it shouldn't be that hot.

If it's all inside somethign with no airflow and no heatshedding ability, *and* it's some of the above too, then it could certainly have problems.

Good fuse holders will tightly hold the fuse, and not have high resistnace connections, and they will be made of heat-resistant materials.

Good fuse selection means picking a fuse that *will* blow when you overload it, before damage can occur to the stuff it's there to protect, but wont' be run at the ragged edge of it's ability all the time.
 
Hey AW thanks for the quick response☺

Now I see it in black and white I reckon its just a cheap crappy fuse holder, its the one that came with the scooter.
ATTACH]

Can you reccomend something for me?
Im running 48v 1800w
Got a 52v 2000w 25ah Battersby on way.
 
Makeitfarster said:
Now I see it in black and white I reckon its just a cheap crappy fuse holder, its the one that came with the scooter.
Click to expand...
What was the original scooter stuff running at? That's what the parts on it were intended to be used at...so if you need them to do signficantly more than that, it's probably a good idea to replace them.

Example: if it orignally was a 5A current limit controller, and your'e using 20 or 30A now, then that's several times what those wires and holders and fuses and whatnot were intended to handle, and all of that original battery wiring, switches, fuses, holders, etc., should be replaced with stuff designed for the much higher current. ;)


Click to expand...
That looks like the heat is at the connections between fuse and wire, based on where the swelling / melting is. I would change that out to a bolt-on fuse that bolts directly between your battery terminal and your controller battery wire using ring terminals. They won't take up any more space, and you don't have to worry about good connections if you are properly tightening the bolts and using the right washers and such. You just have to ensure it's all electrically insulated so it can't touch anything (heatshrink, etc around the terminals/bolts, or use an enclosing fuse block, etc)

They look like these, in various ways:
https://www.google.com/search?q=bolt-on+fuse&newwindow=1&client=firefox-b-1&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwi6htiB-druAhUyIjQIHSsXBt8Q_AUoAnoECAYQBA&biw=1229&bih=679

Can you reccomend something for me?
Im running 48v 1800w
Click to expand...
What is the current limit of the controller? What is the max current the battery ever has to output to the system? What is the wire gauge between the controller and battery? Those are some of the important things that determine the size of fuse you need to use, because it has to be big enough to not blow in any normal usage, but "instantly" blow in the event of a failure that would cause a wiring or battery / etc fire. Generally, you might be able to size the fuse for an amp rating of twice the max the controller should ever draw, and as long as your wires and other parts can handle that for a minute till the fuse blows, it'll work. It'll blow faster the more current thats' flowing, so a direct short (like wiring short) could blow it immediately but a long uphill won't.

The fuse also has to be rated for at least the voltage you're using, or higher, or else it may not break the circuit (it could just arc inside and cause a fire when it blows, instead of preventing one!).

So a blade fuse meant for 12v being used on a 48v system might actually blow at the current it was supposed to, but not break the circuit because the voltage keeps pushing the current thru the airgap anyway. And a plasma arc (lightning) is VERY VERY VERY hot, so it sets fire to anything near it that it can (plastic, wood, etc), and can even melt metal. :shock:

Got a 52v 2000w 25ah Battersby on way.
Click to expand...
I couldn't find any info on "Battersby" that has anything to do with ebike/scooter stuff, so you're going to have to provide links to the stuff for me to get info that will help you.
 
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