dnmun
1 PW
does the yellow wire go out to the torque sensor in that crack cut in the frame? it could be the input to the controller.
Hacking a Couple Stromers
- Thread starter GCinDC
- Start date
Here is a link to Ypedal's sales page. But if you don't need all the bits and pieces, it might make more sense to buy just what you need elsewhere.
http://www.ypedal.com/kit/kit.htm
http://www.ypedal.com/kit/kit.htm
GCinDC
100 MW
called stromer us hq. was told they can't sell me parts.. the guy knew the bikes, told me they were a nightmare and that they shouldn't have been given away - they should have been 'field destroyed'.
time to cut the hall/phase wires and remove the hockey pucks.
time to cut the hall/phase wires and remove the hockey pucks.
dnmun
1 PW
see if you can power it up and then put a trimpot from a 5V source on that yellow wire and see what happens. start the trimpot at max resistance.
GCinDC
100 MW
hey d, i could do that, but it would just prolong the inevitable, which is the removal of the controller... the only way i'd not remove the controller is if i found a failure in one of the wires outside the motor... the yellow wire goes from the battery to the controller - this pic shows it best:dnmun said:
maybe i'll play w/ it (or send it to you) after i yank it.
dnmun
1 PW
if it goes from the battery, it is not a control input. i thought maybe it was part of that torque sensor.
when you cut it out look on the controller to figure out the polarity of the hall sensors since they are buried in the black goop. you may be able to see which leg is power and which is signal so you know which to connect to later.
when you cut it out look on the controller to figure out the polarity of the hall sensors since they are buried in the black goop. you may be able to see which leg is power and which is signal so you know which to connect to later.
GCinDC
100 MW
i might have a spare handy.dbaker said:
will start off w/ 36V - it's for the wife.. love to keep the batts in the downtube so the fewer the better, but i need to research which batts will fit. lifepo might be nice.yanked the puck.
i'll have to send it to forensics, but do i see the remnants of a short/fry event?
not that i see a way for anything to get out of the puck. i tried cracking it with a hammer, but couldn't! might need to take a sawsall to it!
anyhoo, off we go:
here it was all wired up, before silicon. all new ss41 halls, an adaptto temp sensor (KTY83?), and ancient thin 9C phase wires (i can hear the booos, haha, but the next motor will be more beefy)
can't get the stromer guy out of my head. can't describe it. like he was in charge of security and he'd let an invader in. i kinda expect someone to show up at my house with a warrant and remove them...
Stromer guy was probably upset because he had negotiated destruction with the previous owner, perhaps delegated to LBS, as part of his agreement to provide the replacement bikes. Now he wishes he had required them to return them 
Similar emotion is displayed on ES for vaious issues
Similar emotion is displayed on ES for vaious issues
dnmun
1 PW
i wonder why the german pictures of the controller showed there was no black goop covering the devices but the black goop was all over this one. if not that mosfet coulda been replaced to see if it worked. or replaced all of them and go to higher voltage.
GCinDC
100 MW
great q. may have been an older version before they decided it was more important to protect their IP than make their units serviceable.dnmun said:
GCinDC
100 MW
ok, maybe a bit passive aggressive. lol.
[youtube]I9WbIxv4mSQ[/youtube]
[youtube]I9WbIxv4mSQ[/youtube]
GCinDC
100 MW
sounds like a fun (but nasty) test. acetone dissolve epoxy resin?dbaker said:
might try some carving. lol
dnmun
1 PW
nice vice. i tried acetone and laquer thinner but nothing will dissolve that stuff. it is like epoxy. can't pop it off because it takes the underlying parts and traces with it when you dig the stuff out.
GCinDC
100 MW
thanks, it's grandpa's vice from the farm. he had a sweet anvil too, but my psycho aunt got ride of it near the end cause she thought he'd hurt himself w/ all the tools. :x
decided to reuse the stromer 5 pin connectors for the halls, + and GND, and running a 6th loose for the temp sensor line. i yanked the longer wire w/ mate from the bike, chopped the end and soldered on the adaptto halls connector, so it's a separate extension. (i'd not have been able to slide it thru the axle, but the stromer 5 pin goes thru fine....)
no probs at all fitting the wheel/bearings over the axle:
then i flipped it, lined up the marks near the middle seam, lined the spokes back up (never took them off) and started the nipples on the the threads:
banging it back together was a pia, but i used a touch of WD40 and that made all the diff. no pic of the wheel back together. so psyched to try it on the bench tonight.
btw, i used a bit of WD40 in the seam to pull the motor apart. using the gear puller w/o it, i have no doubt i would have cracked the flange. read where another's had cracked using puller.
decided to reuse the stromer 5 pin connectors for the halls, + and GND, and running a 6th loose for the temp sensor line. i yanked the longer wire w/ mate from the bike, chopped the end and soldered on the adaptto halls connector, so it's a separate extension. (i'd not have been able to slide it thru the axle, but the stromer 5 pin goes thru fine....)
no probs at all fitting the wheel/bearings over the axle:
then i flipped it, lined up the marks near the middle seam, lined the spokes back up (never took them off) and started the nipples on the the threads:
banging it back together was a pia, but i used a touch of WD40 and that made all the diff. no pic of the wheel back together. so psyched to try it on the bench tonight.
btw, i used a bit of WD40 in the seam to pull the motor apart. using the gear puller w/o it, i have no doubt i would have cracked the flange. read where another's had cracked using puller.
GCinDC
100 MW
[youtube]LRh6Jxu_ylE[/youtube]
just need to tighten up the spokes that i left loose in case i had to pull the motor apart again.
just need to tighten up the spokes that i left loose in case i had to pull the motor apart again.
GCinDC
100 MW
always sad when a bike shop closes down:
but imagine my luck when my buddy who worked there was cleaning up and found an old stromer battery!
and look, the sucker's still got juice! woaah... and 11Ah to boot.
plugged in the charger and it's humming away:
imagine my luck! is that not insane? we'll find out what that yellow wire is after all, or not, if opening it requires breaking it.
cause it would be ludicrous for this not to be used, considering voltage level after sitting for a year, considering the form factor, removability, chargability, etc, etc... even if i need to wire up to a new controller...
oh, and it's a nice color too.
but imagine my luck when my buddy who worked there was cleaning up and found an old stromer battery!
and look, the sucker's still got juice! woaah... and 11Ah to boot.
plugged in the charger and it's humming away:
imagine my luck! is that not insane? we'll find out what that yellow wire is after all, or not, if opening it requires breaking it.
cause it would be ludicrous for this not to be used, considering voltage level after sitting for a year, considering the form factor, removability, chargability, etc, etc... even if i need to wire up to a new controller...
oh, and it's a nice color too.
ridethelightning
1 MW
- Joined
- Jul 21, 2013
- Messages
- 2,010
nice find GC!
is it still possible that one of the 2 bikes can still be repaired without major motor surgery?
good luck getting em running.
is it still possible that one of the 2 bikes can still be repaired without major motor surgery?
good luck getting em running.
GCinDC
100 MW
doesn't look like it...ridethelightning said:
i repaired the broken wires:
even did a decent job with the shrinktube, if i do say so meself
hooked it all up, and turned it on. even after charging overnight, battery won't charge above 52%, at least as far as the system can tell:
gave it a test drive, but no acceleration via throttle or PAS.
on braking or recup mode, the motor grinds a wee bit like it's trying, just like it did before.
and since there's no halls/phase error reported on the display (as it apparently can do, from the support documentation), i have to suspect the controller is at fault. there are such steep hills in the area, it seems likely that the controller shat the bed when being pushed up one of them. just a hunch.
since i've already added power leads to the battery connector, seems like the thing to do is to connect those to the adaptto controller, swap the motor with the one i rebuilt w/ halls and phase wires and run new throttle, ebrake and display wiring.. won't need the bms if using the stromer battery - not sure how long it will last if only 50%, but it'll no doubt be faster than the 250W bionx with a dead battery that's she's been riding.
Allex
100 MW
Open up the battery and see what is wrong with it. Or could it be that the display is configured for 48volt and the battery is 36?
GCinDC
100 MW
display is definitely not configured for 48V. battery is 36V nominal, 42V fully charged. i need to check the batt voltage again from the terminals, cause it could well be at 42V after sitting on the charger, in which case it may be possible to reset capacity via display? or could a fried controller (yellow wire! - a BMS circuit?) be interfering, as it goes from batt to controller?Allex said:
does look like the batt opens up easily with push tabs, but gosh, i'd have to break the warranty seal.
GCinDC
100 MW
btw, i need to swap out the miniE on my DH comp with the maxE before i can install the miniE on the stromer.
i tried my old miniE w/ beta BMS that's been sitting on a shelf, but it's acting dead. :| do you know if:
A. the display units since July 13 and now are all identical and cross compatible?
B. the display units on my July 14 miniE and the latest maxE are compatible? if so, i can just swap controllers and leave my display as is...
i tried my old miniE w/ beta BMS that's been sitting on a shelf, but it's acting dead. :| do you know if:
A. the display units since July 13 and now are all identical and cross compatible?
B. the display units on my July 14 miniE and the latest maxE are compatible? if so, i can just swap controllers and leave my display as is...
Allex
100 MW
Well I know one case where the display was replaced on the old controller. This display was from july 2014 I believe with some redesigns internally. But it worked. So it should be compatible.
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