dnmun
1 PW
does the yellow wire go out to the torque sensor in that crack cut in the frame? it could be the input to the controller.
hey d, i could do that, but it would just prolong the inevitable, which is the removal of the controller... the only way i'd not remove the controller is if i found a failure in one of the wires outside the motor... the yellow wire goes from the battery to the controller - this pic shows it best:dnmun said:see if you can power it up and then put a trimpot from a 5V source on that yellow wire and see what happens. start the trimpot at max resistance.
i might have a spare handy. will start off w/ 36V - it's for the wife.. love to keep the batts in the downtube so the fewer the better, but i need to research which batts will fit. lifepo might be nice.dbaker said:Sine wave controller? You could move the adapto to this bike. Maybe 48 volt?
great q. may have been an older version before they decided it was more important to protect their IP than make their units serviceable.dnmun said:i wonder why the german pictures of the controller showed there was no black goop covering the devices but the black goop was all over this one.
sounds like a fun (but nasty) test. acetone dissolve epoxy resin?dbaker said:would acetone dissolve/soften the potting compound?
doesn't look like it...ridethelightning said:is it still possible that one of the 2 bikes can still be repaired without major motor surgery?
display is definitely not configured for 48V. battery is 36V nominal, 42V fully charged. i need to check the batt voltage again from the terminals, cause it could well be at 42V after sitting on the charger, in which case it may be possible to reset capacity via display? or could a fried controller (yellow wire! - a BMS circuit?) be interfering, as it goes from batt to controller?Allex said:Open up the battery and see what is wrong with it. Or could it be that the display is configured for 48volt and the battery is 36?
...Open up the battery...