Help! Lyen Controller on ezee hub motor doesn't work

joelgerlach

10 mW
Joined
Feb 12, 2012
Messages
33
Location
Los Angeles, California
hey guys,

I've been really excited about this ebike build. It started out with a two year old ezee cadence I bought for $400. It's this bike:
http://www.electricbikesla.com/component/virtuemart/?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage_new.tpl&product_id=54&category_id=17

The design is really great, and I've put a lot of work restoring this beauty. Terry from http://www.hightekbikes.com/ is building me a custom 48v 15Ah Lithium Cobalt battery out of samsung cells that I'm putting inside of the Cadence's already sturdy battery support frame. This allows me to take advantage of the removable battery support in the center of the frame, a great place for the battery. It's got the 350W geared brushless hub motor in the front.

In order to accept the new higher voltage battery, user spinningmagnets recommended I get a Lyen controller. Seen here:
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=31&t=19587

I also got a cycle analyst and a cruise control. It's going to be a great setup when it's running. Problem is--it's not running. And I need your help because I've run out of ideas. I've been emailing Lyen but I need the advice of the forums to figure this out! Here's the problem. I have the motor hooked up by the way Lyen's instruction manual said. More on that in a second. Then I've got a temporary (3years old and pretty much dead) battery that came with the bike while I wait for the new one from Terry. That's hooked up. And then there's the throttle. It was wired to the original ezee controller in a weird way, so I ordered a new one, just in case I broke the old one.

Right now, the motor isn't turning at all. The old ezee controller marked the larger gauge motor phase wires as:
MA=Green
MB=Yellow
MC=Blue

and the thinner hall effect sensor wires as
+5V=Red
Ground=Black
H1=Green
H2=Yellow
H3=blue

According to Lyen's controller setup for an ezee:
Controller --> Motor:
Hall:
Yellow --> Green
Green --> Blue
Blue --> Yellow

Phase:
Yellow --> Green
Green --> Yellow
Blue --> Blue

I have hooked up the motor wires as so. And when I short the Red wire of the throttle with the Yellow wire of the throttle coming from the controller, I get nothing. The motor doesn't spin. I know the motor is perfectly fine because it worked when I was using the ezee controller. There's a few possibilities I've thought of that could make the motor not work.

1. The battery is old. Cycle analyst is saying it has 34.5V and -9W and -0.54Ah. Is it possible that the cycle analyst is cutting off the throttle to the motor because of its low voltage and amps? I've tried unplugging the CA and shorting the throttle, but still no luck. I'll be getting the new Cobalt battery here next week, so that might solve some problems.
2. The wiring diagram for the motor and hall sensors isn't right and needs to be setup some way else. How can I make sure that the right wires are plugged into the right wires? Just try different combinations?
3. How can I test that a signal is being sent to the motor? Is there a way I can use a multimeter to check and make sure that the controller is sending a signal to the motor when I short the wires to simulate open throttle? I've never messed with a brushless motor before, so I don't know how to just hook a motor up to a battery and test it if there's no positive and negative terminals.
4. The controller might not be working. It powers up the CA and sends 5V to the throttle wires and I'm also reading 5V being sent down the hall effect sensors, so I feel like the controller (besides the fact that it's brand new) is not a problem.
5. The throttle isn't reading. Though I was recommended by Lyen to just touch the red to the yellow to simulate open throttle, it's possible that the controller still doesn't think there's anything going on. Any other way I can test the throttle?

Let me know what you guys think. Here's some pictures for more information! Thanks!

The wiring diagram on the back of the Lyen controller:
WP_000243.jpg


The leads coming from the ezee hub motor that have been spliced and added to the control plugs Lyen provided:
WP_000246.jpg


The reading of the CA when I first turn on the controller:
WP_000241.jpg


The wiring from the motor plugged into the Lyen controller:
WP_000242.jpg


The throttle wires coming from the throttle, but don't work when I hook them up to the Red, Black, Yellow units on the controller. On the original ebike controller it was Red, Black, and Brown hooked up. Any thoughts?
WP_000244.jpg
 
Usually if the hall/phase cominations are not right, the motor will make some kind of movement/noise. Many times it will even run.

If you are getting nothing at all, I'd suspect either the LVC is active or it is sensing another fault condition which is preventing output. Other faults include bad hall signals or in some cases bad throttle signals (indicating a throttle wiring fault). If you're just touching the throttle wires together, that could be the problem. Try using the actual throttle. Not all controllers have this feature, but I'm sure Lyen can tell you.
 
If it is an Infineon controller it probly has a small red wire that needs to go to the same place as your main battery positive battery wire goes to power up the controller is it connected? I have to power this up last on mine to get the thing to turn on at all. Throttle needs to see zero before it will start as well.
 
yeah, it's an infenion controller. I just have it wired up to the positive of the battery, since the Cadence has a key that cuts on and off power. Does that need to be separate? And I've been starting the controller with the wires not crossed to get a zero starting. But it's powering up the CA, so it's probably getting the signal, right?

Thanks for the reply!

The controller power running in tandem with the positive.
WP_000247.jpg


The throttle wires coming from the controller:
WP_000251.jpg
 
Have you asked Lyen what he set your LVC at? 34v would seem to be to low if had set it for a 48V battery I would think.

Just an idea...
 
That's a good idea. He did configure it for a 48V 15Ah battery, and I'm just using the temporary old 36v battery to do some testing right now. Do you think that the lower voltage would be enough to not power the motor? I'm going to get the new battery sometime this week, I can give that thing a try and see if that brings the motor to life or not.

Does anyone know what kind of output a brushless motor uses? Can I hook up the multimeter to one of the leads and the other to the ground and expect to get some kind of voltage reading from the leads when I short the throttle? I'm pretty new to brushless tech. Thanks!
 
If your battery voltage is below the LVC it will not power the motor. Its the safety so your batteries would'nt drain so low as to damage them. If you did not get the programing cable it would be a good thing to think about. To be able to program your own controller really makes things nice. It would have been easy to lower the LVC. At 34v and .54Ah it sounds like that battery is just to dead.
 
Is the battery voltage protection a property of the controller or the cycle analyst? And that quite well could be the problem. The LiPo is pretty shot, being three years old and poorly maintained. Hence the new Cobalt setup. :)
 
The controller will not operate below Low Voltage Cuttoff but you can set up the CA to do similar as well. Yes as other say 34V on a 48V system could be a problem so it will not start up at all.
 
joelgerlach said:
yeah, it's an infenion controller. I just have it wired up to the positive of the battery, since the Cadence has a key that cuts on and off power. Does that need to be separate? And I've been starting the controller with the wires not crossed to get a zero starting. But it's powering up the CA, so it's probably getting the signal, right?

Thanks for the reply!

I don't see the pics I don't know about the cadence system never messed with one.
 
sorry didn't read the whole thread (just the title and 1st few lines) so if i missed something i apologize.

this is the hall/phase combo that works w/ my ezee/infineon setup.

try this hall combo using the same phase u were using.

Controller --> Motor:
Hall:
Yellow --> Blue
Green --> Green
Blue --> Yellow


Phase:
Yellow --> Green
Green --> Yellow
Blue --> Blue
 
Okay, now the pictures should work. Check that, and see if that's it.

And thanks, newb, I'll have to try that setup. Though I'm thinking it might be the low voltage cutoff from the controller. Have to wait on that new battery before I update.

Is it possible to have negative amps and wattage?
 
The power wires are likely OK hooked up as you stated but I have 3 Infineon controllers one will not werq unless I plug the controller power wire in after the main power I have no idea whasupwidthat so it's just something I do every time. I would still guess it's your LVC though. If you can scrounge up 6-12 more volts and put them in series with what you have you will know for sure. Good luck
 
Read on another thread that the OP got his build complete. How did you resolve the throttle issue (to help other users with similar setups).
 
Just dropping by to say I went through wiring combos for a recent Lyen MKII controller connected to an eZee motor and found newb's combo worked perfectly. Matching all colours resulted in the motor spinning backwards.

Here was newb's combo again for reference:

Controller --> Motor:
Hall:
Yellow --> Blue
Green --> Green
Blue --> Yellow

Phase:
Yellow --> Green
Green --> Yellow
Blue --> Blue
 
I hate to bump an old thread, but was thankful to find this one after a long hunt.

I have a em3ev controller from 2012 and a ezee motor from 2017.. hooking the motor up color to color, the motor spun backwards.

Here is the combo that worked for me:
Controller --> Motor:
Hall:
Yellow --> Green
Green --> Blue
Blue --> Yellow

Phase:
Yellow --> Yellow
Green --> Green
Blue --> Blue
 
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=88509&p=1291159#p1291159

https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=88394&p=1291320#p1291320
 
Looks like these problems are pretty common then. I sure had a hard time searching.

Runs very smoothly on my em3ev EB3 infineon clone. The only negative is that the 350rpm winding in a 24" wheel will not engage 120% mode. This is probably due to the high eRPM, but it really spoils the bike :cry:

But this is also the case with my older MAC and 120% mode in a 26" wheel. 120% only really worked at lower voltages.
 
neptronix said:
Looks like these problems are pretty common then. I sure had a hard time searching.

Runs very smoothly on my em3ev EB3 infineon clone. The only negative is that the 350rpm winding in a 24" wheel will not engage 120% mode. This is probably due to the high eRPM, but it really spoils the bike :cry:

But this is also the case with my older MAC and 120% mode in a 26" wheel. 120% only really worked at lower voltages.
Search for chinese rainbow lyen....
 
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