Homemade Battery Packs

Overclocker said:
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copper. with cooling holes strategically placed to allow reading of voltages from each p-group
Nice neat package!
Some would advise running "balance wires" under the "wrap", but at 17s and my quality control in cell pretesting, I love your build method.
17s 61.2V LiCo?
or
17s 54.4 LiFe?
 
DrkAngel said:
Could not pass up a bargain;
That's really too bad, so far had not heard any bad reports about BatteryHookup.com

Maybe start a new thread dedicated to that purpose (good and bad) and keep us posted whether they make you whole?

 
john61ct said:
DrkAngel said:
Could not pass up a bargain;
That's really too bad, so far had not heard any bad reports about BatteryHookup.com

Maybe start a new thread dedicated to that purpose (good and bad) and keep us posted whether they make you whole?
Spent $200 on defectives, another $130 on good plus $67 shipping.
I would consider refund:
$200 = sketchy;
$240 = fair and reasonable;
$250+ = generous.

Will see ... possibly as early as Monday.

Update:

Received full refund of battery cost, but no credit for shipping!
Will confront on next order!
 
Angel, get the refund, start over...FWIW! Seems shipping is gone, which you likely knew.

I live in Small Town, USA and figure no one here has what I need, which they do not, even big boxers, so do lots of on line buys...if item shows in query.
 
Yikes! Very nice power....

So slick it makes me wonder, do we do packs to be Kewl or are pragmatic? IRetorical)


And thanks...the probes can get to groups...figuring each is accessible...very nice...takes me awhile...thanks.
 
Accidentally(!) touched my key into the charging port of my Watseka XP battery pack.
Learned that 10s6p Samsung -22p can weld the center pin of the charging port to the aluminum key.
Even after wearing down from near 3 years of daily use.
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Well, the Samsung hoverboard batteries were showing their age and I have a good supply of LG mj1 cells, so, since I needed to replace the charging port, decided to upgrade to ~ 14Ah of mj1s.
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Fairly simple fit of entire pack w/BMS, just needed to stabilize the brick with Styrofoam blocks, cardboard etc.

Ran the battery till lowest green led and metered an 11.92Ah charge from 34.52V to 41.59V, which encourages me to have hope that these cells have near to original capacity. Got a 42V 5A (41.59V 4.72A actual, via Fluke meter) charger that should extend lifespan somewhat, compared to a true 42V.

To supply 36V 250w motor, so cells will be lightly tasked with a probable ≦ 10A controller.
 
Just lucked into new 14s (51.1V) 4p (6Ah) LG HB2 120A continuous output modules - 6lb.
Got 6 @ $39.99 each ~ $130 per kWh

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2x = 51.1v 12Ah 240A output Li-ion 12lb @ $80 = .613kWh (750w?)
3x = 51.1v 18Ah 360A output Li-ion 18lb @ $120 = .920kWh (750w!-1000w?)
4x = 51.1v 24Ah 480A output Li-ion 24lb @ $160 = 1.226kWh (1000w!-1500w?)
6x = 51.1v 36Ah 720A output Li-ion 36lb @ $240 = 1.84kWh (48V 1500w - ideal!)
(I like to limit discharge to ≦1C)
Arrived with all banks balanced 3.510-3.512V!

Still available @ $49.95

Yeah, sorry, not much "homemade" to these, but, need to build them into a "box" ... not good enough?
OK, after thorough testing I will add a BMS?
Alright! Just couldn't pass up the bargain!
New cells, securely spot welded, massive output in secure housing, don't call me unfaithful to my scratch building roots, call me a smart bargain hunter!
 
99t4 said:
Very good. :thumb: What BMS will you use?
Ordered a most basic 14S 52V 35A Li-Ion Lipolymer Battery Protection Board BMS PCB Board for E-Bike . 1500w's controller is 35A, so is the minimum "starter" BMS. 7A charge (~400w) is an acceptable limitation, for a while.

Eventually, I will want to upgrade to take advantage of batteries 2.5C+ charge capability ≧60% charge in 30 minutes.
Then, tempted to indulge in the luxury of the Bluetooth BMS's with the smartphone full monitoring, and adjusting, capability.
 
Angel, Thanks...Winter here and cannot do more than update mower. Cold and now snow, puts bike on back burner. but then, for me, may have more battery packs than needed. But, have to ask...what drives your acts...and how in the world to you find these things???
 
Guess I had better post up the budget 14s 4A charger - $34
It also has voltage trim pot, for minor voltage "tuning". May investigate and modify for 4.10V\cell, life prolonging, charge.
 
Recently bought two of these 10S-3P sticks from Battery Clearing House. NCR18650BD cells, 10A, 3200 mah when new. Advertised as "fairly discharged"
https://www.batteryclearinghouse.com/products/30-cells-high-grade-panasonic-ncr18650bd-10a-3ah-cells-in-10s3p-pack $47 for two. and reasonable shipping charge of $16 for two. I also added a 60Ah 4.2V lipo prismatic cell that weighs six pounds.

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One came in functional at 39V. The other had shut down with most of the groups at 2.7V, and two at 2.2V, I touched a 2A 42V charger to both ends of the stack, bypassing the BMS, and the the two low groups took about 10 seconds to jump to 2.7V. Encouraged, I watched as all ten cell groups quickly passed LVC, I reverted to the charge port. The BMS does work, and they're functional scooter packs. They can pass 26A (my biggest controller), I believe, though I could be wrong, that these cells in he second pack weren't damaged by going down to 2.2V.as they just got there by the whole stick being run down.

At 20A, I'm seeing about a 5-6 V sag. This is not consistent with the 63 milliohms series resiatnace I measured on one cell group, but that's better than 12V predicted by that IR. The sag is enough to shut down the battery if I pull throttle at 35V. So operational life is about 5AH. If I go easy on power, I can get 7+AH out of them. If I ran two in parallel, the sag would be avoided, and probably see 12-14 useful AH, Not bad for 50 bucks,

Drawback is these packs are almost 2 feet long, Hard to fit on a bike. They were hanging a foot off the luggage racks on my other bikes. Here they are on my beater cruiser. wrapped up under the frame, Ugly, but it was a test run.

I'd like to cut this stick in half and fold it, but there is a circuit board that runs the length of the pack which holds the cells and contains a functional BMS, I'll just put these packs away in my outdoor storage til next year. Figure it out then.
 

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Getting ready!

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750\1500w rear hub kit
14s 24-36Ah Li-ion
14s BMS
14s 4A (voltage adjustable) charger (tracking has in USPS Ohio hub)
24-60V horn\headlight\running\turn\brake light kit
throttle w/keylock

To do:
thoroughly test batteries; - (absolutely must test before! adding BMS)
determine battery quantity fit and housing;
add BMS;
assemble
upgrade tires
check, clean, lube all cables
tune brakes
tune suspension
looking for wide full fenders - road machine!

Not to do:
install PAS (accidental pedal on U turn would full engage 1500w "Launching");
 
DrkAngel said:
.
... Getting ready!

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thundercamel said:
Where can I buy that bike? :)
Liberty Stealth Climber (MTB) circa 2006 ... eBay, Craigs List?
36V SLA
250w hub motor
Heavy steel frame

2006 video of same model eBike - was only $625! (15 years ago)

[youtube]G61O1VnnFoY[/youtube]

Desperately needs upgrading! As a street-road machine, towards 40mph in 1500w mode.

New version - http://iloveebikes.com/36v-bikes/36v-stealth-mountain-2.html
 
Gas, elect, whatever; a bicycle is NOT a motorcycle...Speed is dangerous...as most admit....

Figure 25 MPH or KPH is decent urban speed and still too fast to miss errant car door opening. Others use roads also...FWIW...me? Just happy thing worked as planned...finally.
 
Battery Clearing House had 100 "mostly new, but old" Samsung 30Q's (3AH 15A) for $1 each, about 20 bucks shipping, I snagged a box before they ran out. Thought I might get 100 cells sitting at 1,x to 2.x volts, but they came in at 3.43, and four I sampled averaged 3100 mah, I've been looking for a high output cell with reasonable mah to make some small ebike packs, These will do.

Wow, I never saw that many cells together outside of a battery. Kaboom,
 

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docw009 said:
Battery Clearing House had 100 "mostly new, but old" Samsung 30Q's (3AH 15A) for $1 each, about 20 bucks shipping
You need to pretest them before building a pack to get some idea how many of the 100 are still good enuf for you to rate as Grade A- and B+. You also need to rate them on of Delta OCV mVs of self-discharge over 10 Days. Are resting voltages all the same, say 3.40v? I'll post how you can test them on my thread within the hour.

That would be a great winter project ... i envy you ... i really do !

A Merry Christmas present
 
Received lighting set:
18w headlight w\horn
tail, turn, brake light
light, horn, turn control
color indexed wiring harness


Received 14s 4A charger.
Will post up actual specs and potential mods.

All necessary components on hand for build! (except for battery housing)
Might wait till nearer Spring ... to avoid temptation of flying through snow, slush and salt ...
 
bobbill said:
Gas, elect, whatever; a bicycle is NOT a motorcycle...Speed is dangerous...as most admit....

Figure 25 MPH or KPH is decent urban speed and still too fast to miss errant car door opening. Others use roads also...FWIW...me? Just happy thing worked as planned...finally.
25mph is an unsafe speed! Too slow for traffic and too fast to stop for door kickers.
30-35+mph capability is much safer, gives you the option to blend smoothly with "30mph" urban traffic, become a member of traffic rather than an obstacle to it!
I like to find a vehicle to ride behind, big and slow enough to keep up with yet low enough to see over clearly. My blocker.

See - Bicycle Safety - The Math of Speed
An old, and fun, thread ... intentionally provocative, in parts.

Not a motorcycle ... but gittin' kinda close ...
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I find the safest place to ride is in the pocket in between traffic like following the last person through the red light or getting into the pocket between the two packs of cars and not riding with cars at all. But again my bike goes 43 mph. Speed can be safety.
 
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