Honda z50 e-gorilla qs138 90h

Ok, the plan was to make a 20s22p, based on a guestimation of the room available. After drawing the battery box in CAD there is way more space.🙄 I already have the single batch batteries, I won't add other batch batteries, so 20s22p it is.
Controller and bms could easily fit in the battery box so I could go for an onboard charger in the tank.
 

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Aluminium was delivered today! I made a lot of CAM mistakes, broke a mill, but the part is usable. Probably will make a new one, but other priorities first! Battery box and pack building.20210421_162756.jpg20210421_164202.jpg
 

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Routed an mdf template to check for shape and looks. Will make some changes. Batteries, BMS and controller could fit.

Chain rubs here and there, I'll probably relocate the swingarm pivot point 2cm lower.
 

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Slow progress, I'm still trying to fully recover from my covid infection (14 months and counting). Started the physical assembly of the 20SP22 battery. Mdf milled cad box model as space reference.

Looking for material/inspiration/ideas for the batterybox itself. Functional and esthetically attractive.

Greetings
 

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Nice build. Out of interest why aren't the cells oriented transversely then they can follow the shape of the box?

cheers
Tyler

 
tylerwatts said:
Nice build. Out of interest why aren't the cells oriented transversely then they can follow the shape of the box?

cheers
Tyler

Hi,

Full battery in attachement.
I did it this way, thinking the connections would be easier and more logic to make. It's my first build, so don't want to over complicate things.

Greetings!
 

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Very nice build, with all these nice looking CNC parts I bet it will look awesome in the end.

Just one remark: do not put your controler inside the battery box.
Main reason is that it needs cooling, but also it needs to be accessed in case you want to easily swap it later or even just for maintenance when you have to remove the motor.
I suggest you find another spot for it.

Aside from that everything's great, keep ut the good work!
 
Also, if the controller (or other heat-generating parts) are in the battery box, they'll heat up the cells near them (but not the whole pack); if the heat is significant it may affect the lifespan or performance of that section.
 
Dui said:
Very nice build, with all these nice looking CNC parts I bet it will look awesome in the end.

Just one remark: do not put your controler inside the battery box.
Main reason is that it needs cooling, but also it needs to be accessed in case you want to easily swap it later or even just for maintenance when you have to remove the motor.
I suggest you find another spot for it.

Aside from that everything's great, keep ut the good work!

amberwolf said:
Also, if the controller (or other heat-generating parts) are in the battery box, they'll heat up the cells near them (but not the whole pack); if the heat is significant it may affect the lifespan or performance of that section.


Hi,
Thank you for the input!
It's not pointed out anywhere, but I was planning on splitting them up. On my pictures you can see that my mdf batterybox template has a larger lower and smaller upper part with 3 centimeters between them.
The lower one will hold the battery pack with in front of it the bms, bolted to an aluminum heatsink. Bottom of the battery box will also contain a heatsink (ribbed aluminium plate).

The upper box will hold the controller, contactor, fusing, circuitry. Controller is bolted to a large heatsink, with larger fins sticking out of the box in the 3 cm gap. If I decide on how to make my box (sheet metal/alu/cnc/printed) I want to integrate some sort of airscoop that pulls in air from between the front wheel and headlight while driving, forcing it between this 3 cm gap, over the controller heatsink. I'll than reroute the air via a duct to pass over the motor.

I just need to figure out how I'm making the box/housing. I want it to be servicable, water resistant (puddles on the road, light rain), and also esthetically pleasing (not just a folded and welded up square box).
So, I'm very much open for good input!!

Greetings, Tim!
 

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B1078 said:
The upper box will hold the controller, contactor, fusing, circuitry. Controller is bolted to a large heatsink, with larger fins sticking out of the box in the 3 cm gap. If I decide on how to make my box (sheet metal/alu/cnc/printed) I want to integrate some sort of airscoop that pulls in air from between the front wheel and headlight while driving,
This is also likely to scoop in water and debris kicked up by the front wheel or by traffic in front of you (if there is any), depending on road and weather conditions. If you use this type of vent, I'd make sure it leads only to waterproofed areas and cannot enter the general upper box area.

Or you could instead create a vent input that doesn't face forward, or has a "U" bend (like a greasetrap in piping) that can settle out debris/water/etc for later cleanout (perhaps a "dump door" in the bottom of the U).


forcing it between this 3 cm gap, over the controller heatsink. I'll than reroute the air via a duct to pass over the motor.
You're probably going to need a fan to do that effectively--it's likely the controller/etc will see more heating at start/stop traffic or other potentially slow-moving times than at high enough speeds to be able to force air over things. Squirrelcage, basically like this random google find:
https://www.amazon.com/12VDC-Squirrel-Cage-Brushless-Blower/dp/B00HWZ5XGC
31-0bajydeL._QL70_ML2_[1].jpg
will probably work best in limited space. They take air input from the round side opening(s) and force it out the slim rectangular one, so are good for forcing air thru heatsink fins, for example. But you can also set them up to exhaust the air from the space, forcing input from the intake vent.


If you're definitely going high enough speeds to scoop air in, I'd reocmmend using NACA ducts on the sides if they're practical, to let airflow past the sides pull air thru the system. Don't know if it's more effective than the scoop, but it could take a big scoop to move enough air to be useful, bigger than you can effectively fit.


I just need to figure out how I'm making the box/housing. I want it to be servicable, water resistant (puddles on the road, light rain), and also esthetically pleasing (not just a folded and welded up square box).

You might end up with sculpted-form covers that just "decorate" the square box, as a practical solution to aesthetics. ;) For lightness, you could use vacuforming of thick ABS or similar thermoplastics; the molds can be as simple as wooden forms with sufficient holes drilled in them and a large air tank evacuated to vacuum as the pull-down source; space heaters can be used to heat the ABS sheet prior to molding.

Serviceably-water-resistant isn't all that difficult; waterproof is another thing entirely. For water resistant, then if you install drain holes at the lowest corners of the box any stuff that does get in can at least get out.

If the service access panels and the panels they attach to are stiff enough, then simple gaskets on the access panel edges should be sufficient to reduce intrusion acceptably. If you have the thickness / width available, you can use panels that don't just sit outside the openings, but have "bubbles" that intrude tightly into the openings, with a second gasket that it pushes out of the way a bit to create a second layer of seal, in addition to the one on the outside lip. The bubbles would also stiffen the panels. Somewhere around here there is a design like this that's actually been built, and has CAD images (not sure if the files are there) showing how it fits together, but I can't find it ATM. I think it's from 2-3 years back.
 
B1078 said:
It's not pointed out anywhere, but I was planning on splitting them up.

Ok, no problem then!

B1078 said:
I just need to figure out how I'm making the box/housing. I want it to be servicable, water resistant (puddles on the road, light rain), and also esthetically pleasing (not just a folded and welded up square box).
So, I'm very much open for good input!!

You can have a look at how I built the battery box on my black motorcycle.
In my case it was a lot of hard work because I wanted to get a nice carbon finish, but if you just paint it it's quick and easy to do.

Basically the idea is to sculpt the box out of foam, then cover it with composites , could be carbon fiber or just regular glassfiber which is much cheaper and won't make a big difference in terms of strenght or weight in this particular application.

Then after the composite cures, you remove the foam and end up with an empty shell to put your cells in. This way you can make pretty complex shapes and if you don't want the hassle of dealing with carbon fiber finish you can just bondo and paint it which would make the whole process very easy. I think it would work well in your case, you'll just have to take your time and sculpt a nice looking shape.
 
Dui said:
B1078 said:
It's not pointed out anywhere, but I was planning on splitting them up.

Ok, no problem then!

B1078 said:
I just need to figure out how I'm making the box/housing. I want it to be servicable, water resistant (puddles on the road, light rain), and also esthetically pleasing (not just a folded and welded up square box).
So, I'm very much open for good input!!

You can have a look at how I built the battery box on my black motorcycle.
In my case it was a lot of hard work because I wanted to get a nice carbon finish, but if you just paint it it's quick and easy to do.

Basically the idea is to sculpt the box out of foam, then cover it with composites , could be carbon fiber or just regular glassfiber which is much cheaper and won't make a big difference in terms of strenght or weight in this particular application.

Then after the composite cures, you remove the foam and end up with an empty shell to put your cells in. This way you can make pretty complex shapes and if you don't want the hassle of dealing with carbon fiber finish you can just bondo and paint it which would make the whole process very easy. I think it would work well in your case, you'll just have to take your time and sculpt a nice looking shape.

Hi,

I saw your build and Luke the construction technique. I have a cnc router so I could mill a nice shape in foam. But doing an epoxy lay-up is another skill to learn, tools and materials to outsource. My little shop is getting smaller with every project 🙈.

I was thinking in the line of what @amberwolf is suggesting. A simple box with printed/milled add-on part. But to make that esthetically pleasing/coherent is more difficult.

Thanks for the input.!
 
amberwolf said:
B1078 said:
The upper box will hold the controller, contactor, fusing, circuitry. Controller is bolted to a large heatsink, with larger fins sticking out of the box in the 3 cm gap. If I decide on how to make my box (sheet metal/alu/cnc/printed) I want to integrate some sort of airscoop that pulls in air from between the front wheel and headlight while driving,
This is also likely to scoop in water and debris kicked up by the front wheel or by traffic in front of you (if there is any), depending on road and weather conditions. If you use this type of vent, I'd make sure it leads only to waterproofed areas and cannot enter the general upper box area.

Or you could instead create a vent input that doesn't face forward, or has a "U" bend (like a greasetrap in piping) that can settle out debris/water/etc for later cleanout (perhaps a "dump door" in the bottom of the U).


forcing it between this 3 cm gap, over the controller heatsink. I'll than reroute the air via a duct to pass over the motor.
You're probably going to need a fan to do that effectively--it's likely the controller/etc will see more heating at start/stop traffic or other potentially slow-moving times than at high enough speeds to be able to force air over things. Squirrelcage, basically like this random google find:
https://www.amazon.com/12VDC-Squirrel-Cage-Brushless-Blower/dp/B00HWZ5XGC
31-0bajydeL._QL70_ML2_[1].jpg
will probably work best in limited space. They take air input from the round side opening(s) and force it out the slim rectangular one, so are good for forcing air thru heatsink fins, for example. But you can also set them up to exhaust the air from the space, forcing input from the intake vent.


If you're definitely going high enough speeds to scoop air in, I'd reocmmend using NACA ducts on the sides if they're practical, to let airflow past the sides pull air thru the system. Don't know if it's more effective than the scoop, but it could take a big scoop to move enough air to be useful, bigger than you can effectively fit.


I just need to figure out how I'm making the box/housing. I want it to be servicable, water resistant (puddles on the road, light rain), and also esthetically pleasing (not just a folded and welded up square box).

You might end up with sculpted-form covers that just "decorate" the square box, as a practical solution to aesthetics. ;) For lightness, you could use vacuforming of thick ABS or similar thermoplastics; the molds can be as simple as wooden forms with sufficient holes drilled in them and a large air tank evacuated to vacuum as the pull-down source; space heaters can be used to heat the ABS sheet prior to molding.

Serviceably-water-resistant isn't all that difficult; waterproof is another thing entirely. For water resistant, then if you install drain holes at the lowest corners of the box any stuff that does get in can at least get out.

If the service access panels and the panels they attach to are stiff enough, then simple gaskets on the access panel edges should be sufficient to reduce intrusion acceptably. If you have the thickness / width available, you can use panels that don't just sit outside the openings, but have "bubbles" that intrude tightly into the openings, with a second gasket that it pushes out of the way a bit to create a second layer of seal, in addition to the one on the outside lip. The bubbles would also stiffen the panels. Somewhere around here there is a design like this that's actually been built, and has CAD images (not sure if the files are there) showing how it fits together, but I can't find it ATM. I think it's from 2-3 years back.


Wow, reply filled to the brim with info!
Electric fan...hadn't considered it, will now!
The simple box with add-ons was one of my options, but difficult to make it look less DIY. Looking for a (bit of) production look.

First I need to get this thing working, than package everything so it works for a long time!

Thanks for your time!
 
Hey awesome build! I may have missed it but have controller and motor did you land on? I recently just inherited an old Minico Trail Jet mini-bike with a blown and disassembled motor and have been looking for a direction to go with converting it to electric.
 
Yo man any updates? Hope Covid didn’t take him out…
 
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