I'd like to upgrade my fork and brakes on my eBSO

N8!

10 mW
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Jul 11, 2023
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I searched the previous threads but didn't find what I need, I don't know much about modern bikes but I'm handy with machines

TL;DR, more go = more whoa, my front fork sucks

I was gifted a eBSO hard tail rear hub 500w in Jan'23 and have put 800km on it in stock config. The bike is box-store quality but can be upgraded, the fork is thread-less spring loaded garbage. It looks like a shock but has no air or oil dampening with stupid sloppy cable disc brakes. My commute is 15km, 500m descent in the 1st 9km on "pavement" with cars, various trucks and school bus' moving 40km/ph both directions. (I hitch rides back up, my battery dies right at the house with mean dogs)

The amount of lateral flex in the front fork is getting obnoxious, despite adjusting the headset star nut to compensate the fork-spring cylinders are sloppy and flex side to side which is just increased at the axle which makes the bike feel like it's flopping over counter-steering into turns. Not so fun.

My dream set up is triple tree fork with dual disc, like a proper motorcycle. I found Hydraulic Disc Brake Kits with Front Dual Brake Calipers on a bay and the seller recommended a DNM USD-8N front fork to fit the brake assembly.

Sadly I cannot find a front fork that accepts dual disc brake, 28.6mm straight tube.

any recommendations?
 
You don't want dual disc! You want a better disc brake. Dual disc leaves inadequate space for a usefully strong wheel.

Don't switch from equipment that doesn't work right because it's so crappy, to equipment that doesn't work right because it's weird and goofy.

Triple clamp forks will beat up (dent) your frame, and limit the ways your bike can be stowed or transported. They have their place, but regular single crown forks are more than adequate for practically anybody. Remember that normal is normal because it works best for most people, most of the time.

My advice is find a regular, non-gimmicky, reasonably priced, hydraulically damped, coil sprung fork that has about the same amount of travel as your crappy one. Then add a good performing, easy to set up cable disc brake like Avid BB7 or TRP Spyke. Hydraulic brakes are failure-prone and hard to service, so if you get one, make it a reputable brand like Shimano or Tektro rather than shady Chinesium.
 
Rock Shox Recon or one step lower forks are available for $150 or so, and the Recon's on my Giant work great off road, so will be fine for you. For me, Shimano M-200 brakes as well as the Avids above are excellent.
 
You don't want dual disc! You want a better disc brake. Dual disc leaves inadequate space for a usefully strong wheel.

Don't switch from equipment that doesn't work right because it's so crappy, to equipment that doesn't work right because it's weird and goofy.

Triple clamp forks will beat up (dent) your frame, and limit the ways your bike can be stowed or transported. They have their place, but regular single crown forks are more than adequate for practically anybody. Remember that normal is normal because it works best for most people, most of the time.

My advice is find a regular, non-gimmicky, reasonably priced, hydraulically damped, coil sprung fork that has about the same amount of travel as your crappy one. Then add a good performing, easy to set up cable disc brake like Avid BB7 or TRP Spyke. Hydraulic brakes are failure-prone and hard to service, so if you get one, make it a reputable brand like Shimano or Tektro rather than shady Chinesium.


>Don't switch from equipment that doesn't work right because it's so crappy, to equipment that doesn't work right because it's weird and goofy.

this is probably the best advice for a lot of things, thanks.

all of this is great info, I'd not considered this:

>Triple clamp forks will beat up (dent) your frame, and limit the ways your bike can be stowed or transported.

I'm going to take your advice and get a decent normal single crown sprung/dampened fork .... but I am still going to convert the bike to hyd disc brake. I've got shimano hyd brakes on my DIY built monster bakfiet so I'm comfortable with them and find them to be less squishy than cables.

muchas grascias por the insight!
 
The amount of lateral flex in the front fork is getting obnoxious, despite adjusting the headset star nut to compensate the fork-spring cylinders are sloppy and flex side to side which is just increased at the axle which makes the bike feel like it's flopping over counter-steering into turns.
Tightening that headset star nut is not an effective solution to compensate for excessive telescoping fork play and weakness. Tighten it too far and the steering will bind, potentially causing a crash. And/or destroy the headset bearings.

As others have stated, replacing the suspension fork with reasonable quality will be a major upgrade to the ride and handling.

Since as you have self-described the bike as a BSO bottom quality model, often times you end up throwing good money after bad. Replacing the suspension fork may just identify the next weak link requiring upgrade for the bike to be useful to you.
 
Tightening that headset star nut is not an effective solution to compensate for excessive telescoping fork play and weakness. Tighten it too far and the steering will bind, potentially causing a crash. And/or destroy the headset bearings.

As others have stated, replacing the suspension fork with reasonable quality will be a major upgrade to the ride and handling.

Since as you have self-described the bike as a BSO bottom quality model, often times you end up throwing good money after bad. Replacing the suspension fork may just identify the next weak link requiring upgrade for the bike to be useful to you.

>often times you end up throwing good money after bad.

yeah, this bike has a lot of firsts for me too so I don't know what's good or bad. the price was right and it's a bike, so there's that.
 
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