NO, guys. Do yourselves a favor; learn to solder. it is easy. (If I can do it, anyone can.)
The biggest trick is having the right temperature for the right job. For general soldering, you will probably find a 25 watt soldering iron to be ideal, but if you are soldering anything bigger than 10 ga (maybe even 12 ga), you will want a 40 watt iron as well. You can get both at Radio Shack (assuming they have anything like RS in CR .. if not, on eBay, from Mouser or digikey, etc.) for about $30, and have enough left over for a small spool of solder. If you are doing fine soldering (like changing surface mount components inside a controller, you would want a 15 watt, grounded iron as well.
Or get an adjustable soldering station. This is what I use; cheap enough to not be an extravagance for a hobbyist, good enough to satisfy all but a real pro:
http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?qs=zoeOT%252b4NU2aCYBXmiwiAUA%3d%3d
Probably the smartest tool investment I have made this year....
Another little trick to build a cheapie adjustable soldering iron is to use a regular old light dimmer (triac) and wire it in series with the iron.. That way, you can buy , say, a 30 watt iron, and have a single iron that will do wires from 10 ga to 30 ga. If you aren't going to be doing a LOT of soldering in the future, you should be able to build one of these for about 20 dollars total.
The second biggest trick is having the right solder / flux for the job. (Never use acid core or acid based flux for electronics):
The easiest solder
(for me, anyway) to use is thin 60/40 (%) tin-lead solder with a rosin flux core. (Yeah, the super-environmentalists and the ROHS police are going to kill me for saying that, but it doesn't make it any less true). Sometimes even with the rosin core solder you will need some extra flux. I think most of the pros use solid wire solder and add their own flux as needed, but it takes experience to get it perfect that way. 63/37 tin-lead solder has a slightly lower melting point, and therefore
should be easier for beginners to solder with, but I think that 60/40 flows better, so that's why I recommend it.
Stay away from the silver bearing solders for general electronics use. I say this even though I just got back from Radio Shack with some. Their higher melting temperature and reduced 'flowing liquidity' makes them harder to use, and despite their silver content, are not significantly better at conducting electricity. The only place I use silver bearing solder is in places that are going to get real hot; I'll be soldering some beefier wires to some motor brushes in a while... they get hot enough to nearly melt my good old 60/40, at 370°F but not enough to melt the silver bearing at 430°F
The third biggest trick is having the right size and shape tip on your soldering iron, and keep it clean between between joints. So use a wet soldering sponge.
Stay away from that silver bearing glue. It is expensive and of limited use. I've used it, and the silver bearing conductive ink: They both have their place, but not in building e-bikes, unless you are doing some temporary repairs inside the controller. Their conductivity and durability is not as good as regular solder, despite the manufacturers hype. To get the silver particles to adhere, they have to be surrounded by epoxy or other adhesives.... which are not known for high conductivity.
Every man should be able to solder at least passably well.... unless you want to concentrate on getting rich enough to hire someone to come in to take care of that kind of stuff for you
