KTM 200 exc goes electric

I plugged in the charger on Thursday just to adjust down the amps for another battery.
Then I got a bms fault (again) and I was supposed to ride both today and tomorrow (Saturday and Sunday)

VYHuIG8.jpg


Here we go, it was just to tear it all down.

LWI1SqC.jpg


A shorted mosfet on the charge side. I guessed it was the one closest to the wire, and I was right.
I should get a set of better mosfets and change them all.. But no time for that now.
And I thought this problem was over, after I did a little wiring change so I always turn on the bms without load.
Then I turn on my external pre charge and contactors.

81wGKU1.jpg


When tearing it down I did this :oops:
The metal part of the other contact housing touched, and poof!
Luckily I had a spare. this is for the balance wires.
 
3 laps today of that 20km track, with charging between each lap.

Holy shit, I have never done 60km in a day before :shock:

If I had the phone with me I would have taken a picture when I made a bad line selection and got stuck.
I got caught in a deep mud hole. I could just get off, and the bike were still standing :wink:

But now I only have the usual dirty pictures:

xwEtjwS.jpg


YMqH7P1.jpg
 
j bjork said:
3 laps today of that 20km track, with charging between each lap.

Holy shit, I have never done 60km in a day before :shock:
Click to expand...

I can imaging that the time it took to charge in between laps was very welcome to "charge yourself" by resting a bit...
Please make a video of a lap for us some time 8)
 
SlowCo said:
I can imaging that the time it took to charge in between laps was very welcome to "charge yourself" by resting a bit...
Please make a video of a lap for us some time 8)
Click to expand...

Yes, it was no problem to wait a little for the charging :wink:
But it was pretty fast, I charged with 45A.
And I didnt have to charge full, about 70% was more than enough for a lap.

We took a little longer break between lap 1 and 2, but between 2 and 3 there was only 20min tops.
We had to go, to be able to finish before closing.

If my friends wasent so damn slow to get ready for the first lap there would be a lot more time to rest..
This time it took them an hour :roll:
(When I think about it it was just 45min, but they came 15min later than me)
Apparently it is difficult to prepare the bikes before going to the tracks :confused:

Maybe I can do another video sometime..
I did a few before, but it didnt seem to be very much interest.
And it looks lame on video, everything looks flat and easy. And slow..
You would have to be a really good rider to look good on video, and I am not :wink:
Better now then last year, but still a noob.

I have been riding with these riser blocks for the handlebars (that I have borrowed) lately:

rgXkmMG.jpg


I liked the feel, and on the last lap the handlebars started coming loose from the steering crown.
(probably had something to do with that I rammed a tree the lap before)
I decided I could just as well take the opportunity to make my own blocks instead:

2zIFTQR.jpg


XKFNkG6.jpg
 
I also bent one of the foot pegs, and I saw those holeshot alu ones with spikes were actually available for my bike:

97SOhwT.jpg


My friends tell me they are so much better, so I thought I just as well take the opportunity to try them.
Expensive little buggers :roll:

My plastics were getting pretty worn, there was a rather big crack in the rear fender after a quite nasty crash a while back that is not really visible in the picture:

b9ARxej.jpg


Tadaa:

du6wzJj.jpg


SEde9vk.jpg


Now my battery covers look like crap :(
I should have done something about them when I had mixed up the same paint for the battery box mold for the Yamaha..

Or maybe I shouldn't have done anything now, my friends are talking about going to the worst track I have ridden this weekend.
Just rocks, roots and mountain. Almost guaranteed that it will be a few crashes in that case :mrgreen:
 
Yes, it sure is.
For me it was fast, 19min and the track is about 9km.
A decent rider is a lot faster though.
My friend who has ridden mx a few years, and enduro a few years (something like15-20years in total) is about 2min faster I think.
I dont know exactly, earlier in the season under harder conditions I think I did it in about 21min and he about 18.
So maybe 3min faster, but I think I have advanced more than him since then.
I think he is about equal to most experienced, but not professional riders.

Im just an old noob, on my second season :wink:
 
Time for more maintenance, my rear sprocket was badly worn and the chain had become really stiff.
It was hard to move some links by hand..

mo7A30z.jpg


New chain and sprocket, but I only had a 86 tooth instead of the 90 tooth I had before.
Also new chain guides, and a little repair of rollers:

195bpVe.jpg


It got new bearings, the roller was fine. And I had a bunch of new bearings :wink:

I run a DID 428vx chain, but now they only had the flashy golden. I had the natural before, And I have to use 2 chains to get a long enough. I had some left from last time, and I didnt want to buy an extra golden. Those damn X-ring chains are expensive..
So I have to live with a few links in a different color :roll:

New wheel bearings (again) I cant believe how much dirt and water that got past the seals.
Maybe stainless bearings is a good option? They shouldent rust from the water at least..

And it was time to do something about the rear brake.
I have been trying to buy a new holder plate for the brake pads:

TKHsSzO.jpg


But it is not available. It is holes worn in it and pockets worn in the holder for the caliper.
When the pads is half worn or so, they get stuck in the pockets and wears on one side only.
I had to do something.

iWAvrIy.jpg


I took the only stainless sheet metal I had, It was 1,2mm thick I think.
The original plate was 0,5mm. I cut and beat on it a lot to get sharp turns, and filed a lot on the caliper holder.
After a lot of tests, grinding and filing I got it right.
(the picture is not really when it was finished)

I also noticed that the brake disc was bent, probably from a pretty hard crash when I broke off the bleeder valve on the caliper..
But I was able to straiten it. It was not nearly as hard as I expected..

Then today I rode it.
But wtf, the change in gearing made a lot of difference :shock:
I cant believe how sluggish it got from this small change.
It was most obvious from a stand still, but I could really feel the difference up to decent speed.

I changed from 8,18:1 to 7,82:1, what is it 5%?
I have ordered to get some 10 tooth front sprockets made, then I will have 8,6:1.
That will sure be interesting to try :)
 
A little film from two weeks ago.
Katrineholm, I have never ridden that track before.

https://youtu.be/4zSg559hKk0

The first one I pass is my (usually faster) friend :)
It was just to hit is hard I could after that, and hope he wouldnt catch up..

He claimed he didnt feel well, and quit for the day after that.

I had some sprocket bending to do when I got home from that track :roll:

Here is one from last week:

https://youtu.be/Bkb8bBM_i-A

It is Prästtomta, I have ridden that many times before.
And I have posted videos of it before too, but I was faster this time, 18min.
The fastest I know I have done before is about 19min.
 
j bjork said:
Time for more maintenance, my rear sprocket was badly worn and the chain had become really stiff.
It was hard to move some links by hand..

mo7A30z.jpg


New chain and sprocket, but I only had a 86 tooth instead of the 90 tooth I had before.
Also new chain guides, and a little repair of rollers:

195bpVe.jpg


It got new bearings, the roller was fine. And I had a bunch of new bearings :wink:

I run a DID 428vx chain, but now they only had the flashy golden. I had the natural before, And I have to use 2 chains to get a long enough. I had some left from last time, and I didnt want to buy an extra golden. Those damn X-ring chains are expensive..
So I have to live with a few links in a different color :roll:

New wheel bearings (again) I cant believe how much dirt and water that got past the seals.
Maybe stainless bearings is a good option? They shouldent rust from the water at least..

And it was time to do something about the rear brake.
I have been trying to buy a new holder plate for the brake pads:

TKHsSzO.jpg


But it is not available. It is holes worn in it and pockets worn in the holder for the caliper.
When the pads is half worn or so, they get stuck in the pockets and wears on one side only.
I had to do something.

iWAvrIy.jpg


I took the only stainless sheet metal I had, It was 1,2mm thick I think.
The original plate was 0,5mm. I cut and beat on it a lot to get sharp turns, and filed a lot on the caliper holder.
After a lot of tests, grinding and filing I got it right.
(the picture is not really when it was finished)

I also noticed that the brake disc was bent, probably from a pretty hard crash when I broke off the bleeder valve on the caliper..
But I was able to straiten it. It was not nearly as hard as I expected..

Then today I rode it.
But wtf, the change in gearing made a lot of difference :shock:
I cant believe how sluggish it got from this small change.
It was most obvious from a stand still, but I could really feel the difference up to decent speed.

I changed from 8,18:1 to 7,82:1, what is it 5%?
I have ordered to get some 10 tooth front sprockets made, then I will have 8,6:1.
That will sure be interesting to try :)
Click to expand...

I have about 10:1 and top speed of 75 kmh with a lot of field weakning ofc. I think 9:1 would be perfect.
 
hugok said:
I have about 10:1 and top speed of 75 kmh with a lot of field weakning ofc. I think 9:1 would be perfect.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the info.
I thought something like that too, but started to wonder when I saw another member running about 12:1.

Do you feel that you are loosing power when you get up to higher speeds on the track?
What voltage, battery amp and phase amp are you running?
 
Finally I got my watercut 10tooth sprockets.
They were supposed to be 8mm thick, but I got 10mm.

bmwKde7.jpg


After a little work in the lathe I was able to make something that fits, and a little extra grip on the splines too :thumb:
So I went from 8,18-1 to 7,82-1 when I changed rear sprocket from 90 to 86 tooth.
Now I will get 8,6-1 instead, it will be interesting to test tomorrow :)
 
The gearing sure made a difference. I didn't notice any lost power at higher speeds either, so there might still be gains to gear it down more.

However I had a nasty crash :(
The classic "whiskey throttle" I think you call it in English?
Wrong grip on the throttle so I couldn't let go, and the bike flipped over backwards.

I crashed in to it in the air, and got hit by the handlebars pretty bad.
Broke my nose and some other bones in the face.
After a few visits to the hospital they think I will be ok after a while, and will probably not need surgery.
Well, except that they broke the nose back in position more or less.
And they think it might take a year or so before I get the feeling back in my teeth on the right side of my upper jaw.

The bike will need some surgery though:

Ym1sbIt.jpg


In the rear I think it is just the fender and the wiring for the light.

xT7i2J0.jpg


To get the front wheel in position I think is just a matter of getting the fork in position, but I guess I will see.
The light is loose, and there are some cracks in the plastics around it.

XYOvae6.jpg


bw3Gghk.jpg


The handlebars is bent out of position and the crown is cracked on both sides.
 
Sorry to hear that j bjork, hope you heal fast. At least you won't feel your teeth rattling on the track [emoji6][emoji23][emoji23]

cheers
Tyler

 
Thanks guys :)

The pain is not too bad now actually.
It hurt a lot when I crashed, but it went mostly numb after a while.
It was difficult to sleep at first, I could almost only lay on one side.
The evening after they broke the nose back was rather painful, but that was actually the only time I took painkillers.

I was very tired the whole week after the crash, I dont really know if it was because of the damage or the penicillin they put me on.
The biggest problem now is the teeth on the right side of the upper jaw, they feel "dead" when I brush them. But it hurts to chew with them. Seems a bit worrying to me, but they didnt seem very concerned at the hospital.
 
Think you should see a dentist about that. I know also from personal experience that the normal doctors mostly don't have a clue how to judge teeth issues. If the teeth are dead or dying then it should be planned to fix it. Expensive..
 
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