What a wonderful day to go for a ride! Let’s just power up our completed Lightest kit and roll!
View attachment 349803
Oh… yeah… never mind…
So I received a code that might be unique to me? Don't know, don't care at this point. So all is well now?
NO.
I have applied the superhero QR code from the app, and updated the display firmware. But I am locked to Country: others, and/or 19mph speed limit on both PAS and throttle. It cannot be set to USA 1000W in country mode, or beyond 19Mph in manual mode.
I ordered the "OFFROAD" package!
Bikee makes you pay them an additional fee to turn off the governor:
RACE button ( or OFFROAD)
Unlock your Lightest ebike kit maximum speed with just one finger. In the realm of electric biking, speed is often the name of the game. And when it comes to turbocharging your Lightest Ebike Kit experience, the RACE Button is your ultimate secret weapon. Imagine taking your ride to a whole new...lightest.bike
Yes, you have to pay an additional $74 to get a little button in the UI. But it looks like those that ordered the OFFROAD package shouldn't have to pay for governor-disable button. More confusion, nonsense, needless complexity, and nickle and diming.
Oh, and the motor sounds like a coffee grinder. I have a friend that used to ride a Sondors mid drive with a metal dive gear, and the Lightest motor is louder than that. It's loud enough that you probably don't need a bell/horn.
Dude, I'm pretty frustrated at this point. Will post an update when I have time for a 19mph ride.
Is it as loud as the CYC X1 Pros?
The display/app lets you set the cell series number: 13, 14, 15 and watt hours for your pack. This might need the superhero upgrade? My settings are 14S 1100Wh, or 52V 21Ah.Yikes dude
I bought this with the plan to circumvent the controller entirely, not because it's poorly programmed/locked down, but because i don't want this extra heat it generates inside the case.. i also bought offroad too.. and now it sounds like i have 2 reasons to rip out that controller.
Curious to hear this sound.. i wonder if it's lower when on road and the mechanical bits have a few miles on them & have 'broken in'.
For clarity, are you running a 52v battery on a unit that didn't have 'special programming' to support a 52v batt, IE a regular 48v unit? ( i am thinking about using this voltage myself )
I don't have the race button, and I am region locked.I purchased the offroad option and it works without further ado. There's a big R (Race) on the home screen.
I can't report on the cadence situation when the motor cuts at 19mph. Anything above that is all meat-power right now.Wow, major turnaround in the last inning here!
Interesting that the drive train is the quiet part, that's a great sign. I wonder if it has a squarewave controller inside. The motor is probably very high RPM and that would make a square wave a real screecher...
Is the pedal cadence on this motor around 100rpm; can the motor outpedal you a lot basically? or is it reasonable @ 52v?
The 'too small a sprocket' problem is no surprise. Want that mid mount back?
I like the dual chainring configuration because i can easily get away with the higher cadence from higher voltage by gearing the mid drive down.. this way i can increase the power of the mid drive.. taking the controller out of the shell should approximately counteract the additional heat from the extra 4v.
Let me know about this cadence issue and i will immediately order an appropriate battery and start my experiments with this drive.
I know it would be a hack, but what about sticking a pulse divider circuit between the speedo sensor and the signal input? It would cut the reported speed in half, with all the downsides that may cause in displayed data, etc., but it would allow the system to continue responding to your input up to 38mph.I can't report on the cadence situation when the motor cuts at 19mph
Can you just enter 16" for the wheel diameter?I know it would be a hack, but what about sticking a pulse divider circuit between the speedo sensor and the signal input? It would cut the reported speed in half, with all the downsides that may cause in displayed data, etc., but it would allow the system to continue responding to your input up to 38mph.
I could be wrong about this but the difference between the 750w and 1000w versions may be just the controller, not the motor.
750w correlates to a speed of ~28mph so it makes no sense your speed is limited that low in the USA. Might as well buy a $200 geared hub motor at that point.
bikeee boys make it clear as mud as to what speed you should get.. i hope they can fix this for you.