Looking for BMS suggestions

[heynow9991]

I have this Tesla module that has been reconfigured so that it is 12S37P. I need to add another string to it as I need more voltage for the boat motor I want to power. I had a 12s BMS but I need a 13s bms for the new configuration. I expect to draw as much as 100 amps powering the motor. Any suggestions for a good BMS. As its powering a boat, reliability is pretty important.

(I tried to post a picture but no luck, file too big)


Thanks

 

[jonyjoe303]

chargery bms16 can handle the 13s. It uses contactors so it can handle however many amps you need without overheating. I been using the chargery bms8 for the past year 24/7 and its proven very reliable. You can find it for 109 on ebay, you have to supply your own contactors.

 

[st35326]

I have this Tesla module that has been reconfigured so that it is 12S37P. I need to add another string to it as I need more voltage for the boat motor I want to power. I had a 12s BMS but I need a 13s bms for the new configuration. I expect to draw as much as 100 amps powering the motor. Any suggestions for a good BMS. As its powering a boat, reliability is pretty important.

(I tried to post a picture but no luck, file too big)


Thanks

Did you get the module here : http://edisonmotors.net/shop/product/12s-converted-model-s-module-5-4-kwh-50-4-v-max-140?category=7

Cool project. I was actually considering doing this as well but running the Ant Bluetooth BMS so I can monitor cell groups on the fly. I just built an Ebike pack with the 300 amp version (no screen, I use the app on my phone) and am very happy with it thus far. Not. bad for the price and I like that I can turn the entire BMS off if I want to (no vampire drain).
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000136479622.html?spm=a2g0o.cart.0.0.75703c00WdEhkI&mp=1

I think you'll need a male 7 pin JST connector to connect to the Tesla module?

 

[john61ct]

Just tacking on another group to go from 12S to 13S can be a bit fraught.

Since that group is unlikely to be exactly the same chemistry, much less exact same capacity and SoH% from aging or cycling wear.

Remember, the weakest link determines both the overall capacity / power / performance, and also reliability / longevity.

So I would

1. ensure the odd man out is newer, stronger and higher capacity, last to fail, and

2. carefully monitor the balance state, frequently re-balance as needed, ensure the balancing process completes each time, returning the pack to your desired target state.

If your selected protective BMS is inadequate for the job, move to using a separate dedicated balancer that can work starting at any voltage you want and at a higher balancing rate.