MAC motor specialist help

mxer

1 kW
Joined
May 15, 2011
Messages
372
Location
United Kindom
I have a mac motor spinning internally but not the wheel? I have a brand new clutch, gears, and key?. But still motor is spinning internally without spinning the wheel?.

Here's a video
https://youtu.be/NiD1O4lXAlc


I can't get my head around the bell magnets spinning so freely?.

I have totally stripped the motor to see if the bell spur gear is loose but it's absolutely fine?.

Is it possible for the new clutch to be faulty? How can the bell magnet flywheel spin without turning the wheel, I can't see for the life of me how this can happen?.

I really am stuck with this one has anyone else experienced this?..

Many thanks in advance...
 
Here is also a video of the original problem Before I put a new clutch and gears in, it's exactly the same?.

https://youtu.be/c80SUTHh0IA
 
mxer said:
I have a mac motor spinning internally but not the wheel? I have a brand new clutch, gears, and key?. But still motor is spinning internally without spinning the wheel?.

Are these statements or questions?
Watching your video without any comment of what you are doing is not very useful.
Sometimes you spin the wheel, then you stop it but i can't say what happens.

If i judge it correctly then it seems that sometimes it works and sometimes it doesn't? Or does it never work?

There are two versions of the MAC internals. Can't say which one you have. But the freewheel (it's no clutch) with the gears needs a key to connect to the axle. Maybe you forgot the key? And if the key is inserted than i can only be the freewheel slipping. But if you already replaced it this seems very unlikely.

Maybe you take it apart and make some pictures and or (landscape/horizontal) videos, so we can have a look inside and tell you what's wrong.
 
Yes all questions of what I'm experiencing.

So strange hence why I'm here, you are correct the clutch and gears are new and key is in place so can't understand what's happening?.

Sometimes the wheel will spin, and then sometimes it doesn't mainly from standstill heavy throttle, the motor just spins internally..everything is solid gears wise.

There is no reason why this is happening?. It's very strange?.

Here's some pictures I'll try and post another video landscape sorry it's hard on your own once I have soldered the phase wires back.

Thanks for your appreciated comments.





 
Looking at the video again it could be electrical? I'm thinking the motor is spinning the wrong way? I can't really tell from the video very well but it's the only thing that makes sense to me as pretty much everything is new?..

Would this be a case of changing phase wires about?.

Can someone tell me what wires are for what? If there was 2 wires it would be a simple case of swapping over but there are 3 wires so a little more difficult.

I have

Green
Blue
Yellow

I have matched these just with my controller that also have green, yellow, blue, perhaps 2 of the wires need swapping over, but what 2 wires?..
 
Yes I can now see the motor is spinning clockwise (not spinning the wheel) then anti clockwise (spinning the wheel).. wow!!.hence the wheel working one minute the not the next

What would cause this?. Halls?
 
Have you contacted Paul and Joseph at EM3ev ?

Somewhere on the outside or inside of the motor is the date when the motor was made. get them that info,

Often the version before the lattest one had problems with Hall Wires ( Halls )

One of my Halls went bad / solder melted where Hall wire was soldered to the Hall Sensor, I did not have the same problem, mine only did not want to turn the wheel, it sounded like it was working, It sounded like it wanted to spin inside so I thought the gears were bad, or the clutch was bad so I ordered a new clutch and when I opened it up the gears looked fine, but solder was inside motor.

I paid someone to replace all halls , they are only $ 5-$ 8 each but replacing them is work, however from all that you have done so far I would guess you could take the old ones out by way of a dremmel, and epoxy in some new Hall Sensors, and perhaps slightly larger Hall Wires as well but not much bigger like from 24 awg to 22 awg. or what ever side the stock ones are just one size wire bigger so as to fit through the axle.

YPedal , In Eastern Canada has a youtube video on how to replace halls on a hub motor, he is not using a Mac, but the procedure is the same.
 
Right, sounds like the motor was spinning the wrong direction. This can be fixed by swapping the hall and phase wires around but exactly which wires to swap is always a challenge. For sure you want to swap any pair of phase wires. Then you swap hall wires until it runs properly. This is usually a rotation of all 3 wires.
 
So did it run correctly before the hall rewiring? Is the controller the one from EM3ev and did the colors all match before the problem? If the controller was changed maybe the colors shouldn't match to run correctly. I have MACs that have other vendor controllers and I need to swap yellow and green to get proper rotation.

If not wiring, maybe the ring gear in the hub?

Dan
 
running it in reverse was my first thought, but he said that the problem occured and then he changed the freewheel.
so it seems that it wasn't ONE problem it was TWO different ones.

a) first problem was a broken freewheel
b) second problem was wrong wiring making the motor turn backwards

both problems solved :)

c) a new problem making the it run CW once and CCW the other time? NEVER heard of that. that would be dramatic. think of it doing this in direct drive ...
 
Thanks for the reply guys, yes Joseph is aware and awaiting a response, but I've got an embarrassing feeling that if I swap the phase wires y=g, g=y etc I will have a functional motor I never even knew you could do this so awaiting to get the soldering iron out to try it.

Just absolutely gutted I never tried this in the first place. Bet hey you live and learn.
 
With 3 halls and 3 phases, there are 36 possible phase-hall combinations, of which only two are correct. A couple cause the motor to run backward, most produce a very slow motor, a couple are false positives which cause the motor to spin faster but will draw huge amperage.

It would be best if the vendor or an es member could advise you of the correct hall/phase combination, but if you resoldered the phase and hall wires to the motor at random, then systematic testing may be required to establish this new combination.

There are many threads describing this testing, including https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=16&t=3484; there is also a chart in the es wiki for systematic testing: https://endless-sphere.com/w/index.php?title=File:phase-Hall-Wire-Combinations.png

Have a look.
 
Will do appreciated, thank you!.

I'll get wired back up and try some combination wiring, sounds like fun, lol.

Hopefully, hopefully it's a matter of swapping some wires around. Don't really want to be messing around with Hall sensors.. eek!!
 
Lol, thanks Dan...yep got that one!!

Thank you all! All sorted mixed yellow and green phase yellow and green halls runs really smooth the RIGHT WAY pulling minimal amps 2.4 off the ground and not going crazy speeds lol would be nice tho, he he..

Very happy..
 
mxer said:
Lol, thanks Dan...yep got that one!!

Thank you all! All sorted mixed yellow and green phase yellow and green halls runs really smooth the RIGHT WAY pulling minimal amps 2.4 off the ground and not going crazy speeds lol would be nice tho, he he..

Very happy..
That was the easy one. My problem is a lot more intense. I have narrowed it down to the HALLS. Not the wiring but the sensors. My problem is a cut out for no reason. I can be riding along cut power and reapply and nothing or a snapping noise. I have replaced the wiring from the hub, changed the controller so what else would it be/ Throttle,I don't think it's possible as I can reapply power and it will go. From a stop, maybe maybe not. If I take off slowly with little throttle it will go but twist some more and cut out. This is not the first time, second motor, second controller. I will switch out the motor next and see what happens. It's not like a throttle that works or doesn't, it snaps, crackles and pops and stops. Reapply power and it's fine. Won't find out tomorrow as we all know iot's that special day?

Dan
 
Check to see if your controller has a self learn feature. If the two wires are plugged together or possibly shorted to ground, the motor will alternate between forward and reverse each time it is started.
 
Back
Top