Hello everyone,
I and many others would like to modify a mid-drive's crankset to put whatever axle / spindle and cranks on that we wish. Easier said than done of course. For example the Bafang BBSxx has the entire bottom bracket / axle built in with the motor housing; it's directly attached as one piece. So that's a no-go. Other DIY's however like CYC, Lightest Bike, and (yes it's a POS but I'll mention it anyway) L-Faster have separate motors from the crank axle, so you 'could' modify it if you wanted to. All of those either come with or require square-tapered bottom brackets, and all three also have a freewheel attached to the inside of the chainring, so that you can pedal without the motor being on.
There are a few alternate things that may supposedly happen if the freewheel is not there; please correct or elaborate on these below:
1. The cranks automatically turn by themselves whenever the motor is on. That would obviously be bad if they turned for example at 150 RPM!!! I can't pedal that fast for long. So you'd have to be in a higher (smaller) cassette gear to start out for the proper cadence and that would lug the engine and cause problems, correct? For example, if the motor itself wants to spin at 150 RPM and you want 1/2 of that at the cranks, if you have a 36t chainring then you'd want the cassette at 17-18-19t. That's pretty high for starting out. I'd need to use a really large chainring like 52T for cadence and then it would still be hard to main cadence for example if I'm at 52t/52t in the 11-speed cassette's granny gear. Even 52/40 in 3rd gear would be difficult to maintain up a longer hill. And that would basically be almost all motor propelling the bike up and you just are trying to keep up with the pedals; it seems pretty ridiculous for a pedaled bicycle. May has well get an e-dirtbike if it's going to be like that.
2. The PAS doesn't work at all; you can only throttle. This would also not be worth it, especially for a bike that is built to climb technical steep singletrack.
3. Everything is normal except that the motor drags when you stop pedaling, and you have to keep the motor on all the time in some power setting to move the bike. PAS does work (assuming the controller's connector has compatible pins and programming with the different crank PAS sensor you have for your other crankset). This would be worth it for having my own crankset on the bike, because I don't care much either way for pedaling without the motor on.
Which of the above if any are correct?
I and many others would like to modify a mid-drive's crankset to put whatever axle / spindle and cranks on that we wish. Easier said than done of course. For example the Bafang BBSxx has the entire bottom bracket / axle built in with the motor housing; it's directly attached as one piece. So that's a no-go. Other DIY's however like CYC, Lightest Bike, and (yes it's a POS but I'll mention it anyway) L-Faster have separate motors from the crank axle, so you 'could' modify it if you wanted to. All of those either come with or require square-tapered bottom brackets, and all three also have a freewheel attached to the inside of the chainring, so that you can pedal without the motor being on.
There are a few alternate things that may supposedly happen if the freewheel is not there; please correct or elaborate on these below:
1. The cranks automatically turn by themselves whenever the motor is on. That would obviously be bad if they turned for example at 150 RPM!!! I can't pedal that fast for long. So you'd have to be in a higher (smaller) cassette gear to start out for the proper cadence and that would lug the engine and cause problems, correct? For example, if the motor itself wants to spin at 150 RPM and you want 1/2 of that at the cranks, if you have a 36t chainring then you'd want the cassette at 17-18-19t. That's pretty high for starting out. I'd need to use a really large chainring like 52T for cadence and then it would still be hard to main cadence for example if I'm at 52t/52t in the 11-speed cassette's granny gear. Even 52/40 in 3rd gear would be difficult to maintain up a longer hill. And that would basically be almost all motor propelling the bike up and you just are trying to keep up with the pedals; it seems pretty ridiculous for a pedaled bicycle. May has well get an e-dirtbike if it's going to be like that.
2. The PAS doesn't work at all; you can only throttle. This would also not be worth it, especially for a bike that is built to climb technical steep singletrack.
3. Everything is normal except that the motor drags when you stop pedaling, and you have to keep the motor on all the time in some power setting to move the bike. PAS does work (assuming the controller's connector has compatible pins and programming with the different crank PAS sensor you have for your other crankset). This would be worth it for having my own crankset on the bike, because I don't care much either way for pedaling without the motor on.
Which of the above if any are correct?