My bike crawls. What the deuce? How do I fix it??

[DanAmes89]

Ive got a RadMini4. And on it, I have the NB Power 3000W Conversion Kit. There's more to the kit than what I have on the bike, but I currently have the TFT-UKC1 display, the NB Power 3000w Rear Hub Motorwheel, and the 3000w 48v-72v Speed Controller.

Last night I just did the wiring and hooked up the motor wheel. I already had the kit but did not have the motor wheel until then. In doing that I inspected all the wires for flaws, cracks, or any physical damage. Could not see any.

I did have to individually splice the five wires coming from the plug, that of which makes the plug for the hall senors, but the 3 thick wires coming from motor, the yellow, green, and blue wires, they are in brand new condition, and plugged into the yellow brick. And the splicing was done flawlessly.

And once I got everything hooked up, I turned it on. The display screen turned on. But when I gave it throttle it would crawl in speed. The motor wheel makes a buzzing sound whenever I hit the throttle (don't know if that's normal or not for that size of motor???) but it does go. It just has no power, and goes about as fast as me walking. I should also mention that the derailleur broke off of it which is why it has no chain or derailleur in the pics. Might that be a possible reason for the bike not working like it should? I don't think the motor or the throttle part of the bike should be affected by that but please let me know if you disagree...

In the middle of posting this thread, I went out to see how much wattage the bike was running while it was going very slowly. It ran in a maximum of 1450 w (according to the wattage reader on my display) and crawled slowly and the minimum of 500 watts and crawled slowly during that as well. While riding a bit down the street to test ride it and get more info of its behavior for this post, all the sudden, the throttle got no response (no buzz, or anything) and after I pulled the bike over I noticed that the whole display screen was shut off and I could not turn it back on and still cannot to this point. I'm letting the battery cool and it will be put on a charger once it cools down. Also after test riding it, the motor was very warm.

What could all of this mean? What the deuce?

Legend:
The posted pics are different pics of my bike

 

[From-A-To-B]

Could be a mismatch in your Hall sensor cables? I’ve read here recently that there’s no standard cable color patterns between brands or manufacturers, so matching the cable colors doesn’t necessarily mean everything is hooked up the way your controllers wants it to be.

1500W, or even 500W for that matter, is a whole lot of power for a crawling ebike.

Theres good threads here where others have discussed Hall/phase cable matching. The brute-force way to find the correct cable direction is to tray all the possible combinations while reading Amps drawn through the controller in order to find the combination that spains forward at the lowest wattage. Others have explained it better— search around and read.

Or maybe i’m off track— but that’s the first thing that came to my mind.

PS — your battery getting hot at 1500W, and your hopes to run that same pack at 3000W concerns me.

 

[amberwolf]

If the hall and phase wires are not in the right order (phase/hall combo) then the timing of each signal from teh halls doesn't match the phase currents sent to the motor. This can cause huge power consumption and rapid overheating.

If the controller has a self-learn feature, I'd recommend using that.

If not, you'll have to try the different phase/hall wiring combinations to find the one that spins the right way, at the right speed, at the lowest no-load current.

 

[docw009]

Since you spun out the rear wheel and perhaps twisted those wires, is it possible that either the wheel or the controller suffered some electrical damage to the motor sensors or the controller? Or are both parts brand new?

There is a flow chart for connecting up a motor and controller that shows how to do it with trying a sequence of wire combos instead of doing all 36, and it discusses a false positive combos where the motor spins, but has no power. I've never had to use it because I've always found the color matching on my motor wires to be correct.

 

[E-HP]

What could all of this mean?

Fried the controller or melted the motor, or both.

 

[99t4]

I'm letting the battery cool and it will be put on a charger once it cools down.

Never a good sign. How hot did the battery get?