My experience with "leafbike" electric bike kit

[goosenoose]

Their kits are terrible. I wouldn't touch them. The controllers are not matched to the motor's continuous capabilities, and as far as i know, not programmable.
That 1000W motor is wound WAY too fast ( 40mph winding, which requires 2000W continuous, on a 1000W motor? WTF? )

That being said the 1500W motor is still my favorite direct drive hub today, even though it has the same high default winding that does ~40mph on the road. ( a more sane choice is a 5T or 6T if you don't have a 48v 80A capable battery! )

Crap. I wish I had seen this a week ago.... oh well. Guess is a good excuse to save up for a Phaserunner :0 (kicking myself that I didn't just buy their kit with the discounted Grin All Axle)

 

[goosenoose]

Their kits are terrible. I wouldn't touch them. The controllers are not matched to the motor's continuous capabilities, and as far as i know, not programmable.
That 1000W motor is wound WAY too fast ( 40mph winding, which requires 2000W continuous, on a 1000W motor? WTF? )

That being said the 1500W motor is still my favorite direct drive hub today, even though it has the same high default winding that does ~40mph on the road. ( a more sane choice is a 5T or 6T if you don't have a 48v 80A capable battery! )

i know this post is a bit long in the tooth.. that said, is there a controller you'd recommend for their 1500W motor that supports variable regen (intent is to save on brake wear) and would pair well with a 54v 20ah battery?

-robin

 

[The Toecutter]

i know this post is a bit long in the tooth.. that said, is there a controller you'd recommend for their 1500W motor that supports variable regen (intent is to save on brake wear) and would pair well with a 54v 20ah battery?

-robin

When money permits, I plan to use this motor with a Phaserunner FOC controller.

https://www.ebikes.ca/product-info/phaserunner.html

Seems to meet your criteria, plus tuned correctly, it could allow silent operation of the motor.

I have absolutely zero experience with either the motor or controller, FWIW.

 

[Bullfrog]

Nothing wrong with a small wheel :lol: . Pic below is a bike I built with a 20" rear wheel and a 4" wide tire (Vee Mission Command 20x4"). With any given hub motor, the only way to change the gearing once you bought the motor is to change the tire diameter. My friend called it the "Clown Bike" because it looked like it should be in the circus with 6 or 7 clowns climbing on it.

 

[zorbas]

Hello, I have found a few threads about wheel size and leaf motors and they were incredibly usefull to get started.
I am planning to add a rear hub 100W 48V or 36 V 750 W to my trike. It's an ICE Trice QNT from 2008 with 3x20" wheels (tadpole). The back end is suspended and I might add front suspensions.

Where I live (Bruxelles), everything is small (a lot of stop and go). The max distance I have to make is 10km one way, and there are a variety of short steep hills, longer small grade climbs but also long flats. The speed in town is max 30/35 km/h on the flats, but most of the time 25/30km/h (that's with my "normal" speed bike). I am not sure yet but I might like this engine so much that I could do countryside trips with it as well of approx 80/90 km where I might want to go a bit faster (35-40 km/h) and some hills but never longer than 4 or 5 km and max 10% grade at the steepest.
I am planning to buy the rest of the kit at ebikes, like a phaserunner controller. Maybe EmBev for the battery.

I am also trying to keep my current 9 speed cassette and related rear drive train (I have a 3 speed front gear). What is the best engine for my purpose?
The 750 or the 1000W? Also I am a bit lost with the battery. I thought a 48v approx 12AH or higher.
I need a 135 mm wide axle for my back end fork and I am not sure that the new leafbike engines will allow 9 speed cassettes. They have now a new splint hub apparently but I am not sure what it will allow.

I also sent leafbike a mail to have rear cassette compatibillity information but I would much appreciate your advise and experience

 

[Bullfrog]

Wow, you have a lot of decisions to make :lol: .

My thoughts...go with a 14s/52v battery. You'll have more capacity and power available...even if you don't use it.

Motor...lots of options. I like the MAC/GMAC. Use the Grin Tech Motor Simulator or the Trip Simulator (a little more complicated but gives you a lot more information). Start with the "Motor Simulator" to narrow down your choices and then fine tune the choices with the Trip Simulator. Put in a couple degrees of incline and see what the motor temps do...make sure your selection doesn't over heat with it loaded the way you plan to use it.

Most of the time a 750w motor is exact same motor as the 1,000w version...the only difference is the controller you connect to the motor. Better to have a 1,000w capability and not need it than 750w and not have enough. But it all depends on your requirements.

You'll need to match the capability of your battery/BMS, controller, and your motor to ensure you don't damage anything. The Grin Tech "Ready to Roll Kits" do that for you so they might be a good option. A lot of people don't do this and end up with problems or have to buy additional equipment in the long run...better to get it correct the first time around .

The leaf motor is a good option...if it can do what you want it to do.

 

[markz]

I dig that bike!
Whats the front tire dimensions?

Nothing wrong with a small wheel :lol: . Pic below is a bike I built with a 20" rear wheel and a 4" wide tire (Vee Mission Command 20x4"). With any given hub motor, the only way to change the gearing once you bought the motor is to change the tire diameter. My friend called it the "Clown Bike" because it looked like it should be in the circus with 6 or 7 clowns climbing on it.

Clown Bike 2.jpg

 

[Bullfrog]

Front was a 27.5x2.8" Maxxis DHF I belive and the rear was a 20x4.00" Vee Mission Command.

I would not recommend it...steering was pretty slow and ground clearance was not that great.

It did help keep the MAC cooler :lol: .

 

[Bullfrog]

A fast wound motor (4T for example) has the exact same torque output per battery amp as a slow wound motor (6T for example) assuming both are the same basic motor i.e. a Leaf 1,500w motor for example.