Electric conversion of a 1984 Honda CM450

[Eastwood]

Thanks for the info, I'll take a look.

Found you a 3 inch puller for 11bucks. You could use this to get the bearing off that shaft.

Amazon.com

a.co

Might be easier to use this style but its a few bucks more.

Amazon.com

a.co

Also, if you wanna use a quality gear puller for free, you can get one from parts store like advance auto parts Etc... You basically pay a deposit for the tool and once you bring it back, they give you a full refund with no fees. it works out for the parts store and the consumer, because we end up buying parts from the store while using their tools for freeb I’ve done this several times for certain type of pulleys when building combustion engines. I only have a couple of cheap gear pullers like the one I linked you to, and typically just rent them for free basically.

 

[amberwolf]

I prefer to do it using the puller as a pusher to lower the stator in.

While not always necessary, It's safer for fingers, motor parts, etc., and doesn't really take much more time and effort if you already used the puller to disassemble the motor anyway.

I had a puller that wasn't big enough so I welded on some extra arm length.

The SB Cruiser : Amberwolf's 2WD Heavy Cargo Trike & Dog Carrier

Funny you shoudl say that... :/ Tonight, I had the problem again, while just sitting at the traffic light waiting, the lights went off, then came bakc on, stayed a few seconds, went off, falshed on and off a few times, then went out and stayed out. I tapped and whatnot on various areas I coudl...

endless-sphere.com

 

[harrisonpatm]

Alright, you've pretty much convinced me that I should just change out to good bearings. So, @Eastwood , since it's your fault: what are the good quality bearings that I should get? Preliminary google search tells me that SKF is a good brand

 

[Mr. Underfoot]

...

Might be easier to use this style but its a few bucks more.

Amazon.com

a.co

Just "a few dollars more" eh, Eastwood? Sorry, I couldn't resist...

 

[Eastwood]

@Eastwood , since it's your fault:

Yes SKF or timken would be a good Choice.

 

[TorgueRPM]

In most motors, the bearing sits in the inside of the side plate, so the plate wouldn't stop the axle from slamming the other bearing axially. If you've never damaged a motor bearing doing that then maybe it's not an issue, but letting things slam together in an uncontrolled way seems like a good way to damage a bearing, even if it's not immediately obvious. The amount of force involved with a motor that big is no joke.
This is a section view of a QS hubmotor. The axle has a shoulder that sits against the inner race of the disc brake side bearing. That shoulder is the first thing to contact the rotor when the stator slams back into place.

 

[harrisonpatm]

Hall sensors replaced, everything's varnished. Really pleased with how the varnish turned out, made everything rather nice and smooth. Now I want to do it to all of my motors. I have the bearings off, and replacement bearings ordered. Since i won't be riding all winter anyway, I'll be following the earlier advice and leaving all the parts separated for at least a month before I put the motor back together, in order for the varnish to have a nice long proper cure.

 

[harrisonpatm]

Little bit nerve wracking getting the stator back into the magnets, but not nearly as scary as I thought.


Hey @Eastwood , thank you for the recommendation to change bearings. I have to say, after getting the cover back on, the whole thing hand spins way noticeably more freely than it did before. I highly recommend it as well, it's worth the work of going through the whole process.

 

[Eastwood]

Little bit nerve wracking getting the stator back into the magnets, but not nearly as scary as I thought.

Hey @Eastwood , thank you for the recommendation to change bearings. I have to say, after getting the cover back on, the whole thing hand spins way noticeably more freely than it did before. I highly recommend it as well, it's worth the work of going through the whole process.

Right, it’s intimidating the first time, but it’s really not too bad.


Same here, there’s way less rolling resistance after new bearings in my QS205.

Your QS273 should last a very long time and serve you well for many years, great job on the varnishing. Something to consider, I would actually remove the varnish on the mating surfaces, 400grit would remove the varnish in no time. I’m sure the varnish being so thick, adds unnecessary thickness. Also, the silicone would stick better to the scuffed metal surface.

But yeah, when I varnish motors, I varnish the mating surfaces as well, and sand it back off before reassembly. So if you did this, you would need to separate the stator and rotor again

 

[harrisonpatm]

But yeah, when I varnish motors, I varnish the mating surfaces as well, and sand it back off before reassembly. So if you did this, you would need to separate the stator and rotor again

Eff that, I just got it back together! Next year.

 

[Eastwood]

Eff that, I just got it back together! Next year.

It’ll be fine with the varnish on the mating surfaces. I just think technically it’s better without, but certainly don’t reopen the motor just for that.

 

[harrisonpatm]

Alright, more expertise needed. Today I got the battery and motor out of winter storage and everything hooked up. And unfortunately, my hall sensor repair didn't take! Felt pretty disappointed.

To clarify, the QS273 comes with two separate hall sets and two separate runs of wire to two different connectors. Last year I had power loss mid ride, it turned out to be hall error. I switched to the backup halls with no issue, motor ran normally. I used a multimeter on the primary hall sensor wires that were reading as a failure, at the end of the connector where it plugs into the controller, and sure enough, 1 of the 3 halls was not showing up on the meter. During winter break, I took apart the motor, and confirmed directly at the hall sensors themselves that one of them was failed. In my mind, this ruled out a cable issue. I replaced that entire set of halls. I checked continuity after I was done to confirm that the new set of halls was reading correctly, at the end of the connector. It was. In fact, both sets of hall sensor connectors read the same on the multimeter. I set aside the motor for the rest of the winter.

Today I reassembled the motorcycle, plugged in the hall connector for the new set, and tried to throttle. No dice. The wheel jerked a bit, and the controller flashed the error signal for hall sensor error, just like last year. I switched connectors to the backup set, restarted, throttled, and the motor behaved normally. I double checked readings at the connector with the multimeter, and the replaced set of halls gave me the same readings as the backup set. Except only the backup set is working right now. And now I'm scratching my head as to why.

Can anyone give me any suggestions for why this is happening and what I can do to fix it? I won't be taking the motor off or opening it again, yet, because as I mention I have a functioning set of hall sensors that is allowing me to ride my motorcycle as normal. I just hopefully can find the issue so that if the backup fails, I have a plan for how to get the motor running again. Any advice appreciated.