Nanjing far driver controllers

[syukanzaki]

Sorry but your controller is to small for more top speed. For 63mph I need around 7kW from the battery.
For better acceleration you can enter 100% up to 4000rpm.
You will see in the app when the controller is limited in phase current because of the 70A battery current limit.
You can also increase Throttle ACC step to 228

If you have a temperature sensor in the motor the controller will lower output power if the temperature gets over 140°C.
If not , you can only guess what happens inside the motor.

ok thank you.
That is kind of I was expecting.

I'm gonna stick with the same motor and controller then.

 

[Sattva Ram]

I have the 72680 i find it a bit sluggish the votol em200 seems more powerful. Right now it tops around 280A line but it is advertised as 350A. I'm having trouble with the gears too. No matter what default gear i set it is stuck in mid gear. So i cranked up the mid gear settings to max. I havent touched the 3 speed connector on the wiring harness. Also there is a boost wire. Does anyone know anything about it? Maybe the full power only comes with boost? There's also a setup for boost as to when to log out of it so it's gotta work i guess somehow. If i cant make it churn out around 25kw at least i think i'm parting ways with it. I just gotta hurry a bit cause i'll sell a qs motor a few days hence and i dont know which controller should i sell it with the FD or the votol. As of now i'd rather keep the votol unless i can make the FD more powerful...

 

[dominik h]

Set
High low speed 9-button4speed3
Gear 1-Default

And you will always be in high gear and get boost direct after turning on the controller
Boost current is set under custom max current and custom max phase current

The boost Pin has to be connected to ground

Throttle ACC step 224
Gives you the fastest throttle response.

I get over 300Adc during acceleration and 630pA

Which motor do you have?

 

[Sattva Ram]

Thanks for the great answer i studied it and there's also a connector dangling on the speed wire that i plug and it stays in high. So it seems there is that too as an option.

So far it's kind of a letdown. I feel the votol 200 much stronger tho i only tried the votol with the v1 138 90h and i changed the motor to v3 ever since that i only tried with the fd so far. Both peaked at around 20kw but the far driver just seems to taper the power very fast while the votol holds full power all the way so even if i manage the 350 line the votol might actually accelerate better at lower amps because there's no tapering (i dont think this tapering can be remedied or can it??). Even with a taller gear the votol accelerated better by the feel. Hope i can get some more out from the FD with the trick you mentioned. But tbh i'm toying with the idea of a votol 260 at the moment that seems like the ace controller for the 90h. Anyway tomorrow i'll install the votol too and do a direct comparison.

 

[dominik h]

How much voltage drop do you have during acceleration. The fardriver reduces power if the voltage goes near the under voltage limit point.

Post screenshots from your settings.
Perhaps there are set wrong values as a default for a mid drive motor.
I only have a hub motor so I don't really know if the Auto learn is able to detect the motor and set the right values.

 

[Sattva Ram]

How much voltage drop do you have during acceleration. The fardriver reduces power if the voltage goes near the under voltage limit point.

Post screenshots from your settings.
Perhaps there are set wrong values as a default for a mid drive motor.
I only have a hub motor so I don't really know if the Auto learn is able to detect the motor and set the right values.

Hmmm well i was pushing it at around 70% SOC so i dont think it was the problem like 280 is not bad but not 350 for sure...i wanna reach the 25KW mark for sure...

 

[Sattva Ram]

 

[Sattva Ram]

Fuk i just saw it as i screenshot it the AN is at frikkin zero that is hub motor territory...gee glad it didnt even blow up...i try 8 and 16 immediately...that totally could be the problem

 

[Sattva Ram]

The KI KP seems fine but even with that i might try 4 4 6 and 40 40 60. After all the 138 90h aint no small motor. Anyone maybe has a bulletproof setup for the 138 by chance? I'd appreciate that so i wouldnt have to experiment at the peril of a blown controller...

 

[Sattva Ram]

I took it for a spin in high gear everything cranked up to the max AN set to 16 SOC 60. No real difference 290 max (tho according to the ANT bms which might even be too generous).

I'll try the boost too maybe in boost mode it lets full power but i doubt it.

It seems this is the max this controller can do it's not even the max power that bothers me but that it just cannot hold power and tapers off. I mean it's not like it's rolling back on the hill or anything but i'm looking for something a tad bit more powerful.

Tomorrow i'll swap the votol and do a direct comparison. I'm more and more leaning towards swallowing the pill and investing in an em260

 

[j bjork]

But you have set it to taper off a lot, 53% @ 4000rpm. It sounds low to me

 

[dominik h]

Have you set the ratios in Speed to 100% up to 4000 or even 5000rpm? Otherherwhise you limit phase current to the motor and probably power. The ratios in speed look like mine after the Auto learn was done. Afterwards I cranked them up and got full power.
Throttle ACC step is in the screenshot at 128, wich makes the throotle response slightly slower. Change to 224 for faster response.
Your boost pin is set to invalid, so you can´t activate boost with a switch.
Limit speed is set to 2400, but I do not know if this makes any changes if the limit speed pin is set to invalid.

For me the rest is looking ok

What kind of battery do you have, 40V unervoltage protection is really low.

 

[Sattva Ram]

Thank you guys very good points. I let the autolearn do everything i also asked sia about the ratios in speed and they said it should taper. It seems auto learn is not doing much it's full of mistakes. Before i bought i asked them to set it up for the 138 but they shooed me away that auto learn will fix it.

Which pin should i assign to boost? I already connected the brown to grnd.

If it could hold that 300A all along i might just accept this controller...

I dont want better throttle response i have bakelite tyres and i already cannot start with WOT without wheelspin the bike is extremely not wheelie happy due to the "floor" mounted battery with extremely good COG it's very happy to spin the wheel without raising the front gotta be very very carful with the thorttle one bad move and you are sideways on the concrete I think this 128 is fine i kinda like it...

 

[Sattva Ram]

20s. I was just messing with a low volt pack and left the 40 volt in...okay i try some 100% values but i'm a bit afraid lest the controller burns. I dont really get this ratios in speed stuff...it seems to me that it's only field weakening current. So it's not like i have 60% amps at only 3000rpm. Or do i...? The manu is quite incomprehensible too

 

[dominik h]

You don't need boost, you can get full power in every gear with the right settings.

Phase amps = Max Phase amps x percentage set the ratios of dpeed t

Here my settings for my 5kW hub motor Max phase amps is set to 630A Max current to 250A boost current is set to 300A and boost is automatiically set when you standstill for more than 60Seconds, i have not adressed and wired boost to a pin, as in my scooter all the switches give 12V and not ground.

 

[dominik h]

Above the normal possible rpm the controller automatically enters field weakening and tries to reach the set value of phase current.
If i set 45% at 1500rpm the controller draws up to 230A from my 21S battery and extends the max speed by 12km/h to 115km/h verified with GPS. With my old controller Max speed was 103km/h without field weakening drawing 110A from the battery. So be carefull with the two or three highest rpm values and just up your ratios in the low and mid rpm by 10% and try what happens, if the controller does not restrict or cut out add 10% more.

Pic from my controller overshooting phase amp limit during a speed run with activated boost. You could hear and feel it restricting power during acceleration. I lowered custom phase current from 680 to 630 and now it accelerates smooth.
You see the this in the dip in current (darf blue line)

 

[Sattva Ram]

Yours isnt entirely dissimilar to mine but mine is definitely more tapery...i'll give it a shot tomorrow...what's your pole pair so i can convert it to mid motor to copy your setup...

 

[Sattva Ram]

Well the problem is that you hardly use any FW. Your list ends around the start of FW border (which is good btw hubs dont like fw too much). But the problem is that my party with the V magnets starts where your ends. If i compare my sub FW numbers they are very similar to yours. So i dont think this can be improved upon. Maybe auto learn is not so stupid after all...also after i set AN to 16 sometimes it rattles the chain kinda violently starting from standstill...but the manu categorically says that for v magnet middrive 16 is the way to go...maybe i should accept it this is what this controller can do...i mean it's not a bad controller as is and relative to the price i might even say excellent but i'm looking for something punchier...24 fets can only go so far it seems

 

[dominik h]

Mine has 24 Pole pairs.
I also have done measurements uphill with 330A at 70km/h with 27kw for 15 seconds, have done this a lot of times in a short period until the phase wires burnt, then I upgraded from AWG6 13,3mm² to awg5 16mm² with 205°C wires and added a temp sensor.

 

[dominik h]

If you have jitter during start i would lower the AN setting slightly.

I have little problems at top speed an flat roads. Downhill this is no problem and the scooter gets way faster. The controller reduces after a few seconds slightly the power and then gives full power for a second and then starts repeating this.
If I turn back the throttle a few degrees everything is ok and top sped is constant.
This I will try to eliminate after installing the new 10kW hub motor.
Perhaps I will also have to change the controller, I have 96850 and 721800 also laying in the garage.

 

[Sattva Ram]

Well it's funny becaise the jitter is very occcasional maybe one out of 50 start is jittery and even the extent of it varies. I think you have to "find" the perfect storm in terms of rpm and throttle position for it to do it. But it definitely appeared after 16 AN set.

Top speed is kinda unstable for me it's not too bad but not smooth either at least donwhill. You can hear the rpm wallowing. But it was like that with the votol too tho not this bad. You can hear it overshoot then tapering back then overshoot then taper...to keep the set rpm.

330A seems very good. Maybe the FD amp meter lies i havent really watched the FD cause it's too small. I'll see what it says for max amps...

 

[Sattva Ram]

Mine has 24 Pole pairs.
I also have done measurements uphill with 330A at 70km/h with 27kw for 15 seconds, have done this a lot of times in a short period until the phase wires burnt, then I upgraded from AWG6 13,3mm² to awg5 16mm² with 205°C wires and added a temp sensor.

You were right man i cranked it up to 100% all the way to 4000 and it's wicked...now it does what it should fkin wheelspin above 40 kph...i'll crank it up to 100% all the way save the last 3 ratios.

I suggest you too crank it up better. Now i see what the problem was there was simply no phase current to support the line current. Even now the taper can be felt that i havent cranked it up all the way. It's 380 amps line current now accoring to the ANT. I fkin love this controller. It immediately went from a max 45 degree MOS temp to 55 tho...

Alas my gearing is to short i'd need a 16T front but it's not available in 420...anyway i'll use as is for this season and do the 428 conversion for next year...it's just too torquey that exceeds the abilty of the tyre...so i cant utilise this short gearing...

 

[dominik h]

Watch your phase wire and motor winding temperatures.
I was also very pleased with the power, until the phase wires burnt. Now I added a temperature sensor and lowered the max power a little , so that to motor does not overheat to fast. With the temp sensor the controller does lower output power when the motor exceeds 140°C.

 

[Sattva Ram]

Watch your phase wire and motor winding temperatures.
I was also very pleased with the power, until the phase wires burnt. Now I added a temperature sensor and lowered the max power a little , so that to motor does not overheat to fast. With the temp sensor the controller does lower output power when the motor exceeds 140°C.

Mine is mid motor it's scorching heat here yet i couldnt bring the motor above 90 degrees even racing up a hill. My phase wires are also thick af due to the no lack of space. The far driver got a bit hotter tho than before but i guess it's to be expected i think it'll require placing it against the wind in the final version. This bike is a wild animal now...

 

[ledenoyauteur]

Hey guys, I am getting a 14. Mosfet low side error, I cannot figure out why or how. I just yanked the battery and checked all my wiring. Still same.
Does this mean I've fried the controller?

It's nd72360 I run at 110a dc current (170 is max)

I was reading on another thread that he fixed this issue because of crossed phase wire.. but I don't see that being the issue unless they melted inside the motor...