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need help diagnosing problem

Deutch420

100 W
Joined
Jul 9, 2011
Messages
187
Location
Central NJ
So ive been running a GM hub on a Lyen 12FET over the summer @ 100v 40amps. Everything worked flawlessly. It was fun, but i wanted more power.
So i recently got my hands on a 5304. I also got a 18FET from lyen.

I got everything together and went to tune it. here is a screen shot of the tune. 100v
500.jpg

Bike rolled great, very quiet. However, there was no power! From 5mph if i went WOT i would only see a 5 amp draw on the CA and the bike was terribly slow. So back to the drawing board i go.

With some help from a forum member and lyen i was advised to change the Rshunt in the CA to 1mohm. So i did. I also made sure the max amps was set to 90 and the max speed was set to 90 to avoid any restriction from the CA.

So i go back out. Wile there was an improvement, the bike was still very slow. If i went WOT at 5mph i was seeing 1000watts (even with my block time set to 3+) and once i hit 20+mph it would go to 2000watts until i hit 35mph - which appears to be my max speed. It takes about 15 second for me to go from 5-35mph. I presume with 100v 50amps and block time to 2 i should see 70+ amps under load down low with a top speed of 50ish mph. On my GM hub with the 12FET @ 40amps 100v i would do 0-45mph in 12 or so seconds so. with block time set to 1 and 40amps i would see 50-60amp draws under WOT at times. if i had to take i a guess, i would say this setup feels like my GM would feel at 72v 10amps. meanwhile its a 5304 at 100v 50amps! :roll:

All the phase wires are elongated with 10g high temp silicone. None of the connections or wires get hot or even warm. been soldering for years. all wires were resistance tested and were good to go. So no wiring issues. Phase and hall are hooked up correct. bike runs smooth. (but for those that are curious; phase is green to green and swap other 2. Hall is yellow to yellow swap other 2. red to red black to black.)

Anyone have any ideas? I did get the hub used, but it looks brand new for the most part. Spins fine. Phase and hall wires are not, and look like they never were, melted. Battery is hooked up correct. This is veriefied with my 8m battery monitor, CA and icharger. This pack was used multiple times and nothign was changed. There is no abnormal voltage sag under load. If i didnt know any better i would say the bike is stuck at 10%, but the math (Volts x Amps = W) doesnt work.

So long story short, i have a 18FET controller, tuned to 50 amps running at 100v. for some reason my max speed is 35mph and it takes me a long time to get there. I see 10amps under 10mph (regardless of the slope of the road, or terrain. uphill's cannot be climbed and grass brings me to a crawl) and a max of 30amps on a flat paved road.

Im hoping i just missing something silly. Maybe someone here caught it?
Thanks and sorry for the rambling.
Any information needed to help, please ask!
:D
 

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So my curiosity got the best of me again. I was sitting on the couch watching tv and all i could think about was the damn bike. So i decided i would tare apart my old 12FET and rewire it all for the 5304 (changing all halls to min 5 pin hxt and all phases to 45a andersons). Thankfully i had the hxt and andersons laying around. plugged it all in a wallah! worked perfect. It was raining out so i had to test it inside my house. I didnt have the time to look down at the CA as i had to hit the brakes as soon as i started to move. But i can tell that it wasnt sluggish like before. It got me moving quick! As soon as it stops raining i will test it again, but now im 99% sure its the controller. :cry:
 
I would try setting all 3 speed settings to 100 just to rule that out. Also try button mode instead of switch.
 
itchynackers said:
I would try setting all 3 speed settings to 100 just to rule that out. Also try button mode instead of switch.

Hey itchy. Thanks for the reply. I already tried disabling the 3 speed, unplugging it and putting all at 100%. Neither worked. I also tried changing the button mode and no dice.

I was advised to try new software. I will try that as soon as possible. Its been raining the past 2 days so i havent been able to test things.
 
Still cant get the 18FET to work.

I did go out with the 5304 and the 12fet though. Had the 12fet tuned to 40amps. Was at 95v. Appears my max speed was 46 mph. Overall, from 0-max speed, my GM will beat the 5304 (if they have same tunes). Obviously the 5304 can take more amps and run WOT longer before running into heat soak issues, but both hubs at the same power, the GM wins. Im very surprised. Both are seeing 4500watts under load. I want to get a better controller so i can up the amps and put this 5304 to use. But i have to send the 18FET back to lyen again for repairs first :( Unless anyone here has had this issue before and knows the fix??
 
I just got done tuning my 18fet lyen controller, from looking at your screen shot of the programing parameters it looks like your { phase/ degree } is set at 0:120 degree. My is set on{ 2:compatible } maby that could be making the difference since it sounds like you have a timing problem.
If you havent tried that setting it could be the culprit, this is what mine is set at and its running great.
 
richirich1113 said:
I just got done tuning my 18fet lyen controller, from looking at your screen shot of the programing parameters it looks like your { phase/ degree } is set at 0:120 degree. My is set on{ 2:compatible } maby that could be making the difference since it sounds like you have a timing problem.
If you havent tried that setting it could be the culprit, this is what mine is set at and its running great.

Hey richirich,
Changing the phase degree was one of Lyens first suggestions. However it didnt work :oops:
Im almost sure the software isnt working with the 18 fet and its stuck at 10 amps or something. Wish i knew enough that i could open it. But i dont. :|
 
Sorry to hear that, i didnt see any metion of that so i thought id throw it out there.
But trust me you are not the only one that s**t like that seems to happen to...
When you find out what happened ,please be sure to share. i will be watching this thread in case i ever run into some problem with mine. (knock on wood)
Good luck
 
FYI, my lyen 18fet is set to compatible also. Is your controller accepting the program? Are you getting any funny messages when transferring the program to the controller? The only other differences I see (with my settings) is my block time is set to the lowest (0.5 sec I believe), the autocruising is set to 15, my EBS level is 2, my tolerance is 0.1. None of those should cause what you are seeing though.
 
Finally i got it to work!

I had to disassemble to USB PC interface adapter. One of the wires got yanked out. So i soldered it back together and wallah!

So i presume the controller was never getting the tune, even though the sofware said successful. i also assume that when i saw the amps go up on the CA it was just a result of me correcting the rShunt. I dont think the amps actually changed, rather the CA was correctly calibrated.

Went out and slammed it with 80amps (80/200). Was a blast. Saw a max amps of 113amps. Max speed was 52mph and i was only at 90v!
 
Deutch420 said:
Finally i got it to work!

I had to disassemble to USB PC interface adapter. One of the wires got yanked out. So i soldered it back together and wallah!

So i presume the controller was never getting the tune, even though the sofware said successful. i also assume that when i saw the amps go up on the CA it was just a result of me correcting the rShunt. I dont think the amps actually changed, rather the CA was correctly calibrated.

Went out and slammed it with 80amps (80/200). Was a blast. Saw a max amps of 113amps. Max speed was 52mph and i was only at 90v!

WOOT! Thanks for posting the update. I just recently chased down an odd issue in my controller that was completely programming related after I modded my shunt into the crazy range (0.5mOhms). I have to run some odd battery vs phase amp ratios to get motors to run correctly because they act almost independent on my EB318 controller which I didn't expect. At 85A actual battery draw I'm programmed for 26A battery 100-115A phase depending on how much I feel like controlling wheelies.

I've found unplugging the CA and using just the minimum of connectors to run the bike can be a big help in troubleshooting. Your issue was a very odd one. Good thing it was just a simple thing, but I can't even count how many simple things like that take me hours to find sometimes. About 2 days of frustration on my odd starting off problem due to lack of phase amps after my shunt mod.

I'm now at the point where I've had so much go wrong it's usually pretty easy to find the problem, just like when you own a boosted car. Eventually enough weird things happen you get to the point you can figure them out pretty quick because you've been there before.

Welcome to the 50mph club, wear a full face helmet :mrgreen:
 
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