New Bafang Crank-Drives

So, I ordered some spare parts and inquired about the BBS02 750W, the answer, from a frequently used seller here, was,

"The 750W bbs02 kis is not as stable as 500W version according to Bafang, therefore we no longer sell 750W kit."

Problems in the pipe or wantingto move their 500W stock?
 
Samd ... still waiting for battery from NNEBIKES ordered kit or did you odrer only motor? Why you didn´t mark this seller for negative rating star on aliexpress?


I ordered 2 kits , motors arrived ( 750W ) without problems but batteries still not received, Micheal promissed it for next week ... so i hope, he has last chance to dispute.
 
Kepler said:
That is a good point. It can be pain when the PAS pushes you when you want to creep along. I have my gear shifter setup with a micro so that it applies minimum throttle and kills PAS when you apply light pressure to it. Much better then a brake switch because there is no delay when it is released. Also applies minimum throttle when shifting gears automatically for you.

I like the idea of a micro on the shifter killing throttle. I have a dual drive and am wondering if only killing throttle on the 3 speed IGH would be enough? I don't hear much 'grinding' going on thru the cassette gear changes... Kepler do you think a micro switch solely for 3 gear ranges is sufficient?
 
Kepler said:
Rusty123 said:
There is one circumstance where I've found the brake cut offs to be real handy, at least in conjunction with PAS. When pedaling super slow, like following a line of cars through a four way stop, power assist is not needed or desired, but the PAS will turn it on, unless the cutoff brake is slightly engaged.

That is a good point. It can be pain when the PAS pushes you when you want to creep along. I have my gear shifter setup with a micro so that it applies minimum throttle and kills PAS when you apply light pressure to it. Much better then a brake switch because there is no delay when it is released. Also applies minimum throttle when shifting gears automatically for you.

Sorry if I am going over old ground but that trends to happen when threads get this long :)

I looked up your description of this (page 64 - excellent write up). Does the micro switch only activate when shifting one direction, ie to a larger cog? I'm wondering how this would fare with an Alfine 8 speed hub. Is there mileage in a cable movement sensor activating this throttle cut-out instead of the brake one?
 
arclarke said:
I looked up your description of this (page 64 - excellent write up). Does the micro switch only activate when shifting one direction, ie to a larger cog? I'm wondering how this would fare with an Alfine 8 speed hub. Is there mileage in a cable movement sensor activating this throttle cut-out instead of the brake one?

I have an Alfine hub on mine and have found the same issues as Kepler with delays. The simple stop peddling to change works well enough however the delay is very annoying particularly when pushing hard up hill.
I started using the throttle method which is much better with no delay however if you apply a bit to much throttle you will crunch the hub, lucky for me I'm no fan of a throttle and ride on PAS only 99% of the time.
So today I got into the software and set my throttle to the exact opposite as normal, locking it to assist level 0 and also setting assist level 0 to just 1% current. With my throttle mounted on the left this setting works perfectly cutting the power for gear changes on the right in either direction with very little delay and without having to do any wiring mods. Down side is no throttle however I never use it any way.

A 2 button set up on the left would be better 1 for kill and 1 for full however that's hardware mods and I'll spend a bit of time with like this before I commit to cutting wires.
 
beazee said:
arclarke said:
I'm looking at ordering a BBS02, from em3ev, for my Kona Ute - this is a longtail cargo bike, I'd like to use it both for dragging groceries up the hill and on longer unladen trips. These would be say 30 miles round trip and I imagine I'd like to run at 22-25mph if possible.
Hi Alan,
I've a 45kg (99 lbs) cargo bike with 36V 500W 25A Bafang, powered by 14.2 Ah (2C, 500 Wh) Li-Ion bottle-mount battery pack. Usual cargo is 29kg (64 lbs) and I am a heavy build 100 kg (220 lbs). It's a coastal area I live in so I am well familiar with hills of different grades. Only ordered a Speedict meter so have no detailed data so far but I am averaging 45-50 km (~30 miles) at the traffic pace of 22-38 km/h (14-24 mph) per battery load commuting.
The other issue I have with the battery is the sag. The bike is a right climber alright for the top half of the battery capacity. Passing 25 kms threshold (still 3/4 battery on the display, which is useless) the sag sometimes cuts me off on heavy climbing WOT. (30 kmh on 6% grade, 380 lbs). You have to lean back, relax for what's left of the battery.
But as you said - the battery pack (4.5 kg, 10lbs) is in standard lock-on case which is the priority for me.

Thanks - looks like I need to compromise - either restrict the current of the 48V 500W to 15A (or lower?) to use a bottle mount battery, go a bit slower and pedal more. At least just me and bike weigh 95kg (before adding motor etc) so might not need so much power on hills.
...or by a 1kWh triangle battery pack which will do everything on power and range, but be a lot of money to leave attached to bike with velcro.
 
Just got some nice feedback from a customer with a bbs01 250w and 10ahr rack battery. She rode 97.5 km today on PAS level 3 out of seven. Yesterday she did 75km with a few hills at the end.

She's riding from Portland Australia to Noosa with her husband to raise money for Parkinson's, a nice test for the little drive unit. 17 days.
 
Samd said:
Just got some nice feedback from a customer with a bbs01 250w and 10ahr rack battery. She rode 97.5 km today on PAS level 3 out of seven. Yesterday she did 75km with a few hills at the end.

She's riding from Portland Australia to Noosa with her husband to raise money for Parkinson's, a nice test for the little drive unit. 17 days.

Blog by any chance?

Andrew
 
pjgold said:
arclarke said:
I looked up your description of this (page 64 - excellent write up). Does the micro switch only activate when shifting one direction, ie to a larger cog? I'm wondering how this would fare with an Alfine 8 speed hub. Is there mileage in a cable movement sensor activating this throttle cut-out instead of the brake one?

I have an Alfine hub on mine and have found the same issues as Kepler with delays. The simple stop peddling to change works well enough however the delay is very annoying particularly when pushing hard up hill.
I started using the throttle method which is much better with no delay however if you apply a bit to much throttle you will crunch the hub, lucky for me I'm no fan of a throttle and ride on PAS only 99% of the time.
So today I got into the software and set my throttle to the exact opposite as normal, locking it to assist level 0 and also setting assist level 0 to just 1% current. With my throttle mounted on the left this setting works perfectly cutting the power for gear changes on the right in either direction with very little delay and without having to do any wiring mods. Down side is no throttle however I never use it any way.

A 2 button set up on the left would be better 1 for kill and 1 for full however that's hardware mods and I'll spend a bit of time with like this before I commit to cutting wires.

Well good news, no need to cut wires.

Bafang introduced me to a Czech company during Shanghai cycle and we had a long talk about the excellent product they developed.
http://gearsensor.com/
It both well engineering and design
-IP water rating
-MCU for delay settings
-Plug n play

Only thing it needs is a better mold for mounting to OEM frames, but for now zip-ties work.

Anyway I was going to do some sales for this, but no need for me to add margin and time when you can just go directly to the source :wink:
info@gearsensor.com
 
I did see these but from what I can gather it plugs into a brake connector which would mean you would still get the delay same as just touching the brake or stopping pedaling.

Could be wrong though worth sending an email to ask :D
 
That is correct pj, so still not ideal.

Intercepting the throttle signal is certainly a better solution at least for the BBS as it drops power off immediately and recovers immediately when released. Makes gear change slick and crunch free. 8)
 
A sensor on the gear cable is a neat idea. What about an interrupt button on the gear lever?
 
You mean like this? :)
ATTACHMENTS
microswitch activated.jpg

Kepler - I read about your switch 50-60 pages ago, I believe, but I don't recall if you used that to interrupt the throttle signal or to basically trigger the brake lever interrupt...?
 
I tried both methods using this switch. Both worked but the throttle interrupt is the superior setup. It what I use now. Great for single track work when you need to go up and down the gear constantly and you don't want to loose momentum.
 
when you need to go up and down the gear constantly and you don't want to loose momentum.

How does your single switch open-up when shifting up or down? It looks like it would only be actuated when pressing one of the trigger shifters (downshifting?)?
 
Ha. Sorry about that Kepler, I recall it now.

I like inventing ideas via early onset Alzheimers :p (ie, forgetting I'd read about someone else's idea).

Must do those power readings tonight...
 
joshseitz said:
when you need to go up and down the gear constantly and you don't want to loose momentum.

How does your single switch open-up when shifting up or down? It looks like it would only be actuated when pressing one of the trigger shifters (downshifting?)?

I set it up for up shifting only (climbing to a larger gear)as this is where most of the stress in shifting is. This is fine for 90% of the time. I am thinking of fitting a second micro so that it cuts power on both shift directions.
 
Aushiker said:
Blog by any chance?

Andrew

Yep. http://p2nbr.wordpress.com/the-ride/
I cop a rating on day 3.

Interestingly, the AC kettle style cloverleaf cord between the 240v wall socket and charger sparked and caught fire briefly on the weekend while they were in their caravan. It did look like it had been cut through rubbing up against the edge of steel sheet or similar. Possibly the result of charging it in the caravan park outdoors kitchen the night before I suspect.
 
teslanv said:
Kepler said:
He is the wiring diagram from 60 odd pages back just in case you missed it.
Kepler, can you include some links for a materials list for this project, Including resistors and switch?

Not much to list really. The resister values are marked on the diagram and any single pole / double throw micro switch can be used.
 
Besides the unit, what tools would I need to buy? Does it come with good instructions?
And now for the stupid question...On a mid drive like this one...do the pedals allways move when the bike is moving?...ie...can I hit the throttle and my legs arent moving?...Be gentle :roll:
 
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