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new cyclone 3000 w mid-drive kit?

I thought I'd share a Cyclone build I've been working on. I still have some fabrication to do on the front motor mount, but I'm hoping to have this bike running in a couple of weeks.

To address the Cyclone mount flex, I machined a spacer to replace the supplied small aluminum motor hanger...similar to the LA Ebike solid mount except it only captures the lower mounting bolts. I also used hardened 1/4" bolts with nuts instead of using the supplied spacers. The front motor mount to the downtube should also solve the bulk of the flex.

The stock motor controller was modified with machined endcaps to accommodate new waterproof connectors. I removed all unnecessary wires from the controller, added an on/off switch, and conformal coated the PCB with nail polish.

For the crankset, I used echo trials cranks, an ENO freewheel, and used chainring bolt spacers to achieve a decent chainline. I also rearranged my 10 speed cassette to line up my large cog with the lowest front chainring. I'm sure my gearing will be tweaked once I get some miles on the bike.

For batteries, I'll be using two Multistar 16000mAH Lipos in a custom seatmount carrier(I'm still working on that). The carrier will use to MOLLE compatible water bottle pouches mounted to seatpost water bottle mounts. I'll post pics when it's finished. It should be very solid and not sway like a typical seatpost rack.

Here are some pics of where I'm at.

Regards,
Brian
 

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Nice build ! Where did you buy your echo cranks from ? I am trying to find a store online that would ship these to the US for a reasonable cost.
 
Remi812 said:
Nice build ! Where did you buy your echo cranks from ? I am trying to find a store online that would ship these to the US for a reasonable cost.

Thanks! I can't recall the dealer, but it was a trials shop in the US. I remember web searching for all bike trials shops in the US and I stumbled upon one on the west coast. I'm sorry I don't remember the name.
 
I'm curious about that also. Did you end up with a different crank freewheel also? I bought a cyclone motor to add put on a direct drive E Enduro frame. I would like to get parts to swap the motor onto a fat bike. I would need crank arms that fit the freewheel. I've got plenty of regular bike crank arms and bottom brackets. I'd imagine though that trials stuff is much more expensive than the cyclone.
 
dirkdiggler said:
I'm curious about that also. Did you end up with a different crank freewheel also? I bought a cyclone motor to add put on a direct drive E Enduro frame. I would like to get parts to swap the motor onto a fat bike. I would need crank arms that fit the freewheel. I've got plenty of regular bike crank arms and bottom brackets. I'd imagine though that trials stuff is much more expensive than the cyclone.

I replaced the stock crank freewheel with a white's ENO freewheel from SBP. The BCD freewheel adapter to mount the chainrings was also an off the shelf part from SBP. The BCD adapter mounts right up to most of the available freewheels including the stock freewheel. The cranks were under $100 if I recall....more like 80 bucks.
 
Anyone any idea how to wire a domino ebike throttle to a cyclone 3000w controller? I need a bit of help.
 
What wires come out of the throttle?

MarkLeeds said:
Anyone any idea how to wire a domino ebike throttle to a cyclone 3000w controller? I need a bit of help.
 
robocam said:
What wires come out of the throttle?

MarkLeeds said:
Anyone any idea how to wire a domino ebike throttle to a cyclone 3000w controller? I need a bit of help.

The following, I also found the following descriptions on
https://fasterbikes.eu/en/throttle-pas/118-domino-premium-full-twist-grip-throttlethrottle-pas.html

They also have a full throttle wiring diagram. Many thanks for your help


Blue: 5V
White: GND
Black: Sensor (Potentiometer)
1 Green has to be connected to 5V
 
I don't have experience hooking up a potentiometer to the Cyclone (mine is a hall throttle), but if it were me, I would connect the blue wire to the red wire (+5V) on the controller, the white wire to the black wire on the controller, and the black (sensor) wire to the green wire (throttle input) on the controller. Does anyone know for sure? Let us know if that works.

MarkLeeds said:
The following, I also found the following descriptions on
https://fasterbikes.eu/en/throttle-pas/118-domino-premium-full-twist-grip-throttlethrottle-pas.html

They also have a full throttle wiring diagram. Many thanks for your help


Blue: 5V
White: GND
Black: Sensor (Potentiometer)
1 Green has to be connected to 5V
 
Finally got a cyclone motor mounted up on the Enduro frame. I threw on the hub motor I had been using on the frame previously. Do you think the bike will be quicker running a cyclone on 60v and hub with the same size 60v battery or just lose the hub and do 72v cyclone? Or even try for 72v batteries for both. I am not too concerned with top speed. 30mph is fine for my needs. The hub is so much heavier than a mid drive!
 
robocam said:
I don't have experience hooking up a potentiometer to the Cyclone (mine is a hall throttle), but if it were me, I would connect the blue wire to the red wire (+5V) on the controller, the white wire to the black wire on the controller, and the black (sensor) wire to the green wire (throttle input) on the controller. Does anyone know for sure? Let us know if that works.

MarkLeeds said:
The following, I also found the following descriptions on
https://fasterbikes.eu/en/throttle-pas/118-domino-premium-full-twist-grip-throttlethrottle-pas.html

They also have a full throttle wiring diagram. Many thanks for your help


Blue: 5V
White: GND
Black: Sensor (Potentiometer)
1 Green has to be connected to 5V

Great thanks for that, I'll give it a whirl. Gonna be a few weeks
 
I finally bought a 84 volt battery for my Cyclone 3000. I'm pretty disappointed. I can't recommend it. It's a lot of fun on 40 mph street runs on my fat bike but it quickly overheats the motor to 110C (230F) on level ground. Also, 84 volts makes the Cyclone pretty tricky on technical trail riding because of its tendency to wheelie. I even installed the 3 speed switch and used it in the "soft" position, but it still wants to wheelie with only a small application of throttle.

I feel the Cyclone 3000 is much more usable with a 52 volt battery, because it's less likely to overheat and wheelie.
 
Interesting. I've always wondered what it would be like to run higher voltages.

The 3-speed switch only limits the motor rpm. It doesn't limit the current, so whether you're on speed 1 or 3, it will still start with the same amount of wheelie-inducing torque.

Do you have a Cycle Analyst? What you need to do is set the current limit lower (maybe 30 amps).

How many cells in series are in your pack?

sather said:
I finally bought a 84 volt battery for my Cyclone 3000. I'm pretty disappointed. I can't recommend it. It's a lot of fun on 40 mph street runs on my fat bike but it quickly overheats the motor to 110C (230F) on level ground. Also, 84 volts makes the Cyclone pretty tricky on technical trail riding because of its tendency to wheelie. I even installed the 3 speed switch and used it in the "soft" position, but it still wants to wheelie with only a small application of throttle.

I feel the Cyclone 3000 is much more usable with a 52 volt battery, because it's less likely to overheat and wheelie.
 
Re: new cyclone 3000 w mid-drive kit?
Unread postby sather » Fri Mar 31, 2017 5:24 am

I finally bought a 84 volt battery for my Cyclone 3000. I'm pretty disappointed. I can't recommend it. It's a lot of fun on 40 mph street runs on my fat bike but it quickly overheats the motor to 110C (230F) on level ground. Also, 84 volts makes the Cyclone pretty tricky on technical trail riding because of its tendency to wheelie. I even installed the 3 speed switch and used it in the "soft" position, but it still wants to wheelie with only a small application of throttle.

I feel the Cyclone 3000 is much more usable with a 52 volt battery, because it's less likely to overheat and wheelie.

From reading on here 72v seems to be the sweet spot , some others are running it at 72v with no problems. 52v is too sluggish and 84v is too high, Also to help with overheating you can change your gearing to reduce the top speed will help with less overheating.
 
Sluggish at 2400W? Maybe on the street when you want to go 50 mph? :)

Coming from a 1300W GNG mid drive, I couldn't wipe the smile off my face when I first tried the Cyclone. On my trail rides, I have never felt that power was lacking in any way whatsoever. My 52V Cyclone always brings a smile to my face. But of course, this is all subjective.

Alex07 said:
...52v is too sluggish...
 
Any recommendations on chain drops using the cyclone as direct drive? Can't get the chain to stay on for longer than 2 minutes. I've adjusted the chain line, tightened the chain, loosened the chain. Redid the chain tensioner to get it in different positions. Nothing seems to help. Thinking of adding a rear derailleur as the last hope. My dual drive has become a nightmare. Should of bought an egrom instead! Would have been much cheaper.
I am using a threaded Shimano cassette on the rear and don't know if that's the main issue. Want to do a a single freewheel when I figure out sprocket size. Chain jumps mainly on the cyclone to the outside.
 
Could you post a picture of your setup? Are you using the motor direct to the cassette (no crankset)?

dirkdiggler said:
Any recommendations on chain drops using the cyclone as direct drive? Can't get the chain to stay on for longer than 2 minutes. I've adjusted the chain line, tightened the chain, loosened the chain. Redid the chain tensioner to get it in different positions. Nothing seems to help. Thinking of adding a rear derailleur as the last hope. My dual drive has become a nightmare. Should of bought an egrom instead! Would have been much cheaper.
I am using a threaded Shimano cassette on the rear and don't know if that's the main issue. Want to do a a single freewheel when I figure out sprocket size. Chain jumps mainly on the cyclone to the outside.
 
I think I finally figured it out. Haven't gotten a real ride, but worked for 10 minutes around the neighborhood on sixty volts. The mount bolts were bent already. They need 5/16 or larger bolts instead of 1/4 on this kit. I changed the chain tensioner pulley on my other Cyclone bike and it started throwing chains too. Tough Saturday for bikes! Had to go ride the hub motor to regain my sanity.
Here's some pics of what is currently working. I added a rear derailleur and put the chain tensioner on the bottom of the cyclone sprocket. Tensioner not in the pictures. Seemed like that was where it would pop.
Motor isn't placed where I want - I plan to make custom mounts to get it higher off the ground. Also want to make new aluminum motor connectors - the parts connecting the mounts to the motor. They are somewhat bent already too.
I can at least now test the difference with hub, hub and cyclone and just the cyclone. Maybe put a single speed freewheel on the rear instead of a cassette. Also want to put flat pedals for foot pegs. Need a way to connect the 8mm square taper and the 12mm? pedals. Might just weld a 8mm bolt to the pedals. Any other ideas?
 

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Does anyone know if a Bafang throttle will work with the Cyclone controller for sure? I want to get rid of the Oro throttle because it is doing strange things to my electrical system.
 
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