Tommm,
Thanks for pointing out to me the Cyclone with the single chain.
Achieved: Single #415 chain drive with 5/16" thick sprockets from motor to rear wheel while keeping the 11:1 ratio.
With this 2 point sprocket setup (excluding the chain tensioner)the bottom chain line rubs into the lower stay and is likely to cause wear on the stay.
A fixed idler pulley on the BB axle could keep the bottom chain line in proper clearance. A 30T RaceFace 104 sprocket had the proper clearance to not touch the upper chain but move downward the lower chain run. This 30T sprocket was bolted to a 36T steel sprocket (which also helps chain containment) and added to the BB freewheel.
Getting the idler pulley in the right place required some fitting attemps with various spacers but the chain no longer rubs on the lower stay. When running the motor the freewheel and sprockets on the BB axle spin. But if you push hard to pedal without motor assistance the sprocket spins & chatters but slips over the chain without much forward motion.
Another way, maybe simpler, to protect the lower stay would be to reposition the angle of the motor by rotating the motor mounts a bit downward. This would make for a little less central clearance below the motor.
A third way to move the chain out of the stays would be to add a fixed white delrin pulley, like the chain tensioner pulley, mounted between the motor shaft and the BB axle attached to the right motor mount side plate and low. This way is likely quieter than the chain ring but maybe more likely to get bent? To get good overall kinematics of the fixed idler, a mounting location near the BB axle helps. Always Trade offs...
To get the overall 11:1 ratio I used 6 Plantary gearbox x 44T rear / 24 T motor = 11:1. To best use #415 chain for stability the sprockets work best when 5/16" wide. To achieve this thickness I bolted to 2 SickBikePart 3/32" thick 24T steel together and 2 3/32" thick 44T steel each together. You save $$ doing it this way.
The motor sprocket & hub were made using a 20mm ID threaded adapter screwed into what we use for the BB freewheel. The double 24T sprockets were bolted to the 5 hole pattern of the freewheel hub.
This motor hub pulley tended to work outward so I drilled and taped threads (slowly with oil and a lot of reversals) into the end of the motor shaft to fit a 6mm bolt x 25mm long. Such a bolt with a washer would likely keep the motor pulley in place.
A thin fender washer with a thin headed 11.9 strength 6mm bolt keep the motor pulley on the motor shaft s as no translation along the axle.
.
This bolt head protrusion took some fitting & fileing to allow the pedal arm to rotate.
The ebike chain noise is somewhat quieter --a heavier chain makes for a lower pleasing frequency without wine? This ONE chain configuration upon engaging the rear suspension causes the the upper chain run to elevate and this raise causes the chain to rub on the chain guard bending it out of alignment. Will have to do the chain guard a little differently due to chain raise.
Don't hesitate. This bigger motor is worth getting ---........quickly. CHEERS
PS I suspect #410 chain to work fine.