New Hub Motor w Built-in Controller - Not working?

[gomyles]

Hi guys

Here is the problem,

So its a brand new Motor, the first time I turned on the motor the display showed a very erratic speedometer reading all over the place. The motor itself would not spin, and when the throttle was applied, a loud BUZZing sound with the motor locking into place happenned.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1SSirWqVYx39ZbYOHDKOU6iPU8UrcZRrS/view?usp=sharing


Here is the kit
https://www.ebay.com/itm/48V-1500W-Rear-Wheel-Electric-Bicycle-Motor-Conversion-Kit-E-Bike-Cycling-w-LCD/223941706956?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2748.l2649


I feel like the wires may have been rubbed enough to cause some kind of internal shorting or something?

Anyone here able to provide some advice as to what can be done to check?

VIDEOS:
Display (SW900 with erratic speedometer readings)
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1GoS8lxa02H3ZcrO4FiJ9wm6F08WZIau7/view?usp=sharing

Motor itself
https://drive.google.com/file/d/18rTi2RVgJdS664tI-OeJMq9rNZq5Gc6Y/view?usp=sharing

 

[gomyles]

Alright guys so I have been wracking my brain trying to think of what this could possibly be and my only idea is this


The wiring that is used for the windings is a coated wire, right? -> https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Magnet_wire

It almost seems like that coating has failed somewhere and it is causing the phase windings to short somewhere, and not in a predictable way, like it is micro-arcing.

I'm trying to think where does the display get its information for the speedometer. Its not the hall sensors (I believe) because sensorless controllers can still read speed, I've also tried to unplug the hall sensors in this situation and it did not change the scenario at all. It gets speed from the phase wire switching rate, right? If 2 phases are electrically interacting due to inadequate wire insulation, it would cause this motor lockup, and also give inaccurate data to the speedometer right?

Somebody set me straight, should I be throwing this motor straight in the garbage? Or is there possibly some hope here?

 

[dogman dan]

Kind of hard to put a motor tester on the controller, with it all inside like that.

Look really hard at all the connections, the symptom does sound like a hall is not working.

Heavy cogging would indicate a blown fet in the controller, or other phase short.

 

[gomyles]

Thank you Dan,

I tried unplugging the hall wires to see if it would behave any different, didn't change anything.

I agree that its sounding like shorted phase wires. The fets all look okay, but I don't have a really trained eye in that sense. I don't see any black ash marks anywhere or anything like that. So tough to say.

Thank you for your input. Thankfully it was paid via Paypal, and I can hopefully get a claim, as it only worked for about 10 minutes total.

 

[nerdo]

Not a nice experience man..... I had a defective motor in my brand new ebike out of the box, likely poorly aligned stator.

Which brings to me to my question, noticed in your video what looks like damaged armature stack!
Perhaps inflicted during opening the motor? Or maybe the cause of the problem? Any friction noise when it ran those 10 minutes?

 

[gomyles]

Good catch, I'm not sure what that is, I bolted the plates back on.

There wasn't any frictional sounds when it first operated.

I messaged the distributor that I purchased it from, they said its a hall sensor issue. I feel like its not. There's a plug that connects to the hall sensors and I unplugged it, but who knows.

Not really sure what happenned, hopefully will find out. Thank you again for the reply.