New "TSDZ2 Torque Sensor Central Motor"
- Thread starter larsottar
- Start date
endlessolli
100 W
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- Jul 31, 2020
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- 208
Elinx said:endlessolli said:
Maybe you could add this solution to the TSDZ2 wiki too.
I added the info to the wiki (image pasting did not work for me, so the picture is in a link. Hope everyone can see that.
scrolltonowhere
10 W
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- Mar 30, 2022
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I'm installing my TSDZ2 and have a question about the cranks. The right side slid easily into place without much force. The left side which is the same side the motor is on doesn't go in all the way. I tried tightening the bolt but it still sits further out. Is this ok? If not, any ideas on how I can fit the right crank properly? 
I think I fried my motor today.
I went for a short ride with many uphills (20 km total, about 200m total elevation with some 10+% parts) on a not so hot (20 °C) sunny day. I started with the battery at 50v and ended at about 45v. I use the OSF with a 13 A current limit and 650 W power limit, but I rarely pull more than 500 W (and below 48v the motor never seems to draw move than 400 W). On the way home, I noticed the display had turned off and wouldn't turn on. The motor was really hot to touch.
When I turn on the battery and put it in the socket, I hear a little spark (this is normal behavior) but I cannot turn the display on and the battery gauge button on the battery doesn't work. When I remove the battery from my bike and press the battery's gauge button, it works fine.
Did I overheat and burn my motor? What can I do to diagnose the problem? I had only 2000 km on it so having to buy a new one would suck.
I went for a short ride with many uphills (20 km total, about 200m total elevation with some 10+% parts) on a not so hot (20 °C) sunny day. I started with the battery at 50v and ended at about 45v. I use the OSF with a 13 A current limit and 650 W power limit, but I rarely pull more than 500 W (and below 48v the motor never seems to draw move than 400 W). On the way home, I noticed the display had turned off and wouldn't turn on. The motor was really hot to touch.
When I turn on the battery and put it in the socket, I hear a little spark (this is normal behavior) but I cannot turn the display on and the battery gauge button on the battery doesn't work. When I remove the battery from my bike and press the battery's gauge button, it works fine.
Did I overheat and burn my motor? What can I do to diagnose the problem? I had only 2000 km on it so having to buy a new one would suck.
I don't think your motor is burned, because in that case you will first notice a powerdecrease (by demagnetized magnets) before it stops working.Square said:
Imho a fried controller with shorten FET's is more obvious. Remove the casecover and you see (and smell) the cause.
Which version of OSF have you flashed?
FYI
Both the bare motor and the controller can be purchased separately and replaced.
So you don't need to buy a new tsdz2.
hemo
100 W
Double check the battery gives a discharge SOC in case a fuse has gone.
I'm trying to disassemble my motor to see whether the controller or the motor went bad. I want to remove the inner motor to access the controller but I cannot remove these 4 screws:
They are very tight and when I remove to unscrew them, I damage the screw head. Is there some other way?
Or is it possible to remove the controller without remove the inner motor?
They are very tight and when I remove to unscrew them, I damage the screw head. Is there some other way?
Or is it possible to remove the controller without remove the inner motor?
endlessolli
100 W
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- Jul 31, 2020
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Unscrewing the motor does not help to remove the controller. The controller is fastened with 2 screws on the side facing the chain ring: You have to remove the chainring, then the dustcover (the part where the cables feed in) In there, you see 2 screws, which hold the controller. Search the web for "TSDZ2 Repair Manual" for more details.
endlessolli said:
Not 100% certain but I think it's possible to remove the dust cover without removing the chainring (Saves a bit of time), from there it's fairly easy to remove the two screws holding the controller in place. Need to dig out the silicone holding the cables in place and sealing them as well..
Square said:I'm trying to disassemble my motor to see whether the controller or the motor went bad. I want to remove the inner motor to access the controller but I cannot remove these 4 screws:
They are very tight and when I remove to unscrew them, I damage the screw head. Is there some other way?
Or is it possible to remove the controller without remove the inner motor?
You could just remove the motor end cover and have a look. Beware there's a rotor spacing washer behind the cover when you remove it.. Just saying, but if that's a picture of your motor it doesn't look like it's fried. To remove the screws properly you will probably need an impact driver or hitting a phillips screwdriver with a hammer and while putting anti-clockwise tension on it.
If you have removed the cover, you can see and smell what is bad.Square said:
The stator must be grey colored, not brown/rusty
You can measure the motor coils resistance on the terminals with a multimeter.
If the controller is burned you smell this mostly too, because of the melted plastic isolation.
The controller can be removed from the chainside behind the plastic dustcap you will find a screw.
For removing the bare motor you need a perfect fit screwdriver and a lot of strenght.
Replace these screws afterwards for torx and think about adding a heatplate or heatpad too.
For illustration, some pictures of jeff.page.rides
I have opened the motor and took a look at the controller. First thing I've noticed is a strong burnt plastic smell, and also a strange black mark on the inside of the case (see right arrow of the first pic). Is this worrying, or could this be from normal wear or manufacturing?
This is what the bare motor looks like. Not sure what to think of it... Does the color looks off? Resistance between the coils is about 1 ohm, but this could be because of my very low quality multimeter leads.
Now for the controller: I was able to program and verify the MCU using an ST-Link, so this part seems to be working. Visually, the controller looks fine, couldn't see any obviously blown part.
But the controller behaves very strangely when I disconnect the bare motor (so that it is only connected to the battery and XH18 display): if I plug in the battery and turn the battery on, I can use the battery's gauge button just fine. I can then turn on the display, see the "Welcome" message on boot and for a fraction of a second, I can see the speed indicator before the display abruptly turns off. When this happens, the battery's gauge button stops working. Is this normal behavior when the bare motor and speed sensor are disconnected from the controller? Or does this definitively means something is wrong with my controller?
I believe one component of the controller got toast, but I still cannot rule out a problem of the motor because of the color and black mark...
Also, I apologize for my bad english. My ebike has been my only mean of transportation for the past few months, while I waiting for my motorcycle licence and exams. This is something that takes forever to get in my country (France). So for the next few weeks, I will have to rely on barely adequate public transport that comes thrice a day to my village...
This is what the bare motor looks like. Not sure what to think of it... Does the color looks off? Resistance between the coils is about 1 ohm, but this could be because of my very low quality multimeter leads.
Now for the controller: I was able to program and verify the MCU using an ST-Link, so this part seems to be working. Visually, the controller looks fine, couldn't see any obviously blown part.
But the controller behaves very strangely when I disconnect the bare motor (so that it is only connected to the battery and XH18 display): if I plug in the battery and turn the battery on, I can use the battery's gauge button just fine. I can then turn on the display, see the "Welcome" message on boot and for a fraction of a second, I can see the speed indicator before the display abruptly turns off. When this happens, the battery's gauge button stops working. Is this normal behavior when the bare motor and speed sensor are disconnected from the controller? Or does this definitively means something is wrong with my controller?
I believe one component of the controller got toast, but I still cannot rule out a problem of the motor because of the color and black mark...
Also, I apologize for my bad english. My ebike has been my only mean of transportation for the past few months, while I waiting for my motorcycle licence and exams. This is something that takes forever to get in my country (France). So for the next few weeks, I will have to rely on barely adequate public transport that comes thrice a day to my village...
It looks that your motor is overheated, but it is not clear how much power is gone by demagnetizing.Square said:
For the controller, mostly it are one or more FET's which are directly connected to these motorwires.
This could explain the black marks on the cover.
imho you must see also burnmarks on the controllerboard too.
Look for the FET connected with the blue wire in first place
scrolltonowhere
10 W
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- Mar 30, 2022
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Does anyone use their e-brake levers with v brakes on their Tongsheng? I was thinking of upgrading my cantilever brakes to v brakes but not sure if the levers are suitable for this style of brake.
bergerandfries
1 W
- Joined
- Mar 2, 2019
- Messages
- 59
I use the Minshine Brake Sensor part #MSBK130804 with road brake levers and disc and caliper brakes. It would have no issue with Cantilever or v brakes or any cable actuated brakes.scrolltonowhere said:
Hi all.
My bike developed a fault this morning. I powered up and got the usual "Keep pedals free and wait" message which persisted for quite a while before giving a "Brakes error". I disconnected the battery and tried again a few times but the same happens.
I haven't had the chance to look into this further as I had to get onto the train so that I could get to work. Would you give me the heads up on what I should be checking? Maybe I should start with the brake switch circuit?
I think I'm on version 1.1 and using 860C display.
My bike developed a fault this morning. I powered up and got the usual "Keep pedals free and wait" message which persisted for quite a while before giving a "Brakes error". I disconnected the battery and tried again a few times but the same happens.
I haven't had the chance to look into this further as I had to get onto the train so that I could get to work. Would you give me the heads up on what I should be checking? Maybe I should start with the brake switch circuit?
I think I'm on version 1.1 and using 860C display.
jbalat
10 kW
scrolltonowhere said:
You don’t need brake sensors with a torque assist bike
jbalat
10 kW
Hey guys does anyone have a nuvinci hub ? I’m thinking of an n330 ?
beemac
10 kW
scrolltonowhere said:
Not sure tbh, I've never used the brake levers - always use the add-on magnetic switches glued to my existing brake levers.
jbalat said:
What's your rationale for that statement? If you don't want to strip your blue nylon gear regularly (or be really really careful about braking under power) then you absolutely do need brake sensors with the tsdz2.
beemac
10 kW
rcx194 said:
Good point, i was only really thinking about my use case. If you have a throttle or you're brave (?) enough to rely on a coaster brake only then it's even more important to have that safety cut-out.
Waynemarlow
10 kW
I've never stripped a blue gear under braking, always from almost stationary and usually my front wheel wedged against a log or bank which I have failed to get my timing of lifting the front wheel over. In fact I'm not sure how you would under braking.beemac said:
In some ways I like the small run on in technical conditions, you can give the pedal a small incomplete turn to power you through say a couple of rocks outcrops which you would normally strike your pedals on. Anyway almost every other brand I have ridden has this small delay.
Waynemarlow
10 kW
Let us know how you get on with the Nuvinci hub. A question, how are you proposing to get around the 12mm through pin on most modern frames, rather than the bolted 135mm old school hub of the Nuvinci and the problem of punctures ?jbalat said:
Waynemarlow said:
When I'm riding more technical tracks, I occasionally come into a situation where I need to brake to full stop but at the same moment I'm unable to lift my weight off the pedal I would be pushing down. So I guess in those cases the blue gear could easily strip without the brake sensor.
I also have the sensor only on the rear brake lever and it's fixed to switch slightly before meaningful braking force begins. This enables me to momentarily cut off motor power if I need to suddenly navigate a difficult spot more slowly than usual.
I agree that having a small run on is a hamdy feature in some spots. Although I've needed it much less after changing the cranks from 170mm to 152mm. It makes riding rocky trails so much easier that I wonder why the long cranks are such a default in all commercial emtbs.
