Did anyone try to replace the stock controller yet? I would be interested to see if we could get a cycle analyst (or forums controller) to work with the torque sensor. My preferred solution would be a vesc with an arduino/teensy. Another controller would also allow for more volts. Does anybody have some information about the signal that the torque sensor generates? How many wires are connected from it to the controller? In the pictures I can only spot 2 but that would be weird since I would assume a reference voltage, ground and signal cable.
New "TSDZ2 Torque Sensor Central Motor"
- Thread starter larsottar
- Start date
Santa'sLittleHelper said:
I'll give you a long reply..
The Bafang bike I built was using a much more powerfull bbs02 with 250w nominal and somewhere around 900w peak (I think). That motor was paired with a relatively light hybrid bike with skinny tyres, while the tsdz2 sits on my daily ride which is a bullitt cargo bike. While the bullitt isn't a particularily heavy cargo bike, it now weighs between 30-35 kg and I regularily carry around 10 kg of load in the bike, sometimes more.
Anyway, I built the bafang bike for a friend om mine, and handed it over to him after riding some 100 kms with it. I remember it would hold a steady pace of 25 km/h up a rather long hill hill (5% incline) without any help from me. Because of the PAS, I would still need to turn the pedals, but they wouldn't have to be engaged. Most of the time this is just fine, but the *feel* of the bafang is abit like riding a weak moped.
I love cycling and the feel of putting actual power to the pedals and moving forward, building up momentum to tackle hills and so on. That's why I was put off by how the Bafang worked. I have small motorcycles that will push me along if that's what I'm after. I don't know how to describe it, but take this example: With the wife and my two kids all in the cargobike, it still feels like I'm actually cycling. The BBS02 would happily pull a similar load a little faster, but whatever extra effort I'd put in was barely noticeable. With that load on the cargobike, coupled with the tsdz2 running in turbo-mode it's a bit like how it was to pedal along the bike empty before I put a motor on it. But to be honest, Turbo-mode is abit on/off. I need to pedal very softly for the motor to not add full power, but that's usefull in its own way. I much more prefer the speed or tour mode for regular riding with modest hills.
Like someone else posted, speed-mode puts out the same power as turbo-mode while it seems the only difference is that the motor requires the user to put in some extra leg power to trigger that extra assist from the motor.
The turbo-mode also seems to make the motor hang on for a little longer when I stop pedaling, perhaps for a second or so before it spins down, which is a bit annoying when shifting to gears 3-11. I'm using an Alfine 11 igh and it should allow shifting under a certain load (1-2 shifting works fine under Turbo-mode load, too btw). It seems I can shift and apply power to the hub in Eco and Tour mode, but anything above that and it stays in the same gear until the motor spins down or stops. If I'm not careful there's even a loud clunk-bang noise from the hub. The interesting thing is that if I'm being very conscious about it and pedal very softly (this signals the motor to ease back on the assist), I can make the hub shift even under power in Turbo-mode. There's definitely a whole lot of torque sensing going on. I think it works in a beautiful way even though it is not perfect.
There are a few other peculiarities with how this motor works. Even in Turbo-mode, over a certain speed, it seems the motor expects quite abit of effort from the rider to deliver the necessary assist. The bike will happily go up a 15% hill at 8-10 km/h in 1. gear without too much effort from from me. But trying to tackle the 5% hill mentioned earlier at 20+ km/h and 80ish rpm requires a lot of more effort. If I slow down to around 10-12 km/h I can climb that hill nearly effortlessly. I haven't done the math on this, so perhaps there's a logical explanaition. I'd like to try fooling the controller to believe I'm going half the speed I really am to see if there's any difference in how it assists relative to the speed I'm going.
There really no need for a brake cut off switch unless something like the torque sensor should malfunction and apply full assist even though your not pedaling. I might want to try a gear sensor of some sort though, just to idiot-proof my shifting. The alfine is fine with a clunk-bang every now and then, but none the less I feel like I'm breaking the hub a little every time it happens.
Regarding the noise: I am getting used to it. The cargo box and the frame seems to amplify the noise for me. I've tried a couple of other bikes with this motor mounted and they sound nothing like mine. The others are humming and whirring along like mine and produce more noise than the bafang, but the sound isn't amplified in the same way. Interestingly, with kids in the cargo box, most of the noise goes away! A couple of days ago I cycled passed another a cargobike with the same motor, a Workcycles Kr8. From about a metre and half away I couldn't hear any humming from it at all. The motor could have been off for all I know, but that's a really heavy bike and there were two kids on board as well, so I doubt it.
On my Bullitt, the motor is only attached to the frame with the big bottom bracket ring. The rear mount had to be cut off to make it fit. It's a tight fit, because when the BB ring is loose the motor can move perhaps half a mm. What I think is happening is that the front casing of the motor is touching the big main frame tube causing it to resonate:
I've put a piece of rubber there to try and dampen the noise but I might need to recheck how I've positioned it. I've also tried to insulate the cargo box with rubber o-rings. This helped a little, as did adding more grease to the motor internals. But the noise is still there. At medium assist and around 20 km/h the wind noise takes over for most of the motor noise anyway. At lower battery levels there's also less noise coming from the motor.
Regarding the drag: There was substantial drag when pedaling unassisted when the motor was new. It went away quickly after the first 5-50 kms of riding I think. I don't remember if this was before or after I added more grease to everything, but now with 600 km on the odo that is a non issue. I regularily ride above where the speed cuts off, and I don't feel much drag compared to how it was before I added the motor. Tbh, I think there's more drag coming from inside my IGH at high gears and high speeds than whatever extra drag the tsdz2 is adding.
-
DrewSki said:
This video shows how to:
https://youtu.be/o8gqhhPO7cI
And btw, Future-bike.it seem to sell a 500w version, a fatbike version and a double chainringversion of this motor.
Santa'sLittleHelper
100 W
mscoot said:I'll give you a long reply..
Thank you for taking the time to write that. I'm torn between the BBS02 750W/48V and this torque sensing mid-drive. I've ridden about 20 different E-bikes over the last year and owned a BBS01 350W/36V ride that was whisper quiet. Like you, I prefer a natural bike pedaling feel with added assist for my old guy lungs. The Bosch CX and the Shimano STePS systems seemed to have the best feel to me, but the BBS02/BBSHD without torque sensor seems to provide a nice relaxed cruising feel that is set by the power level, as opposed to the torque sensing models that felt like the rider was a little bit more in control of the power though the feet. I really wish Bafang would make a torque sensing model.
(I have to add this. I just got a pop-up that said "you just unplugged a device from you audio jack." Lol... wonder who is trying to listen in? Ain't gonna happen on this device who ever you are. :x No camera or microphone, it's all detached.)
Back to the post... The range of the torque sensor is a bit of concern as is the ground clearance. The Bafang sits up higher in front of the BB.
Are there any other bolt-on mid-drive systems that have torque semsors besides the TSDZ2?
Santa'sLittleHelper said:
Before I decided on the TSDZ2 I also found the following mid-drive kits with torque sensors:
- Sunstar iBike SO3+, supposedly the Japanese original mid-drive that Bafang and TS copied. At some point they had a patent case going against Bafang. https://www.electricbikesales.co.uk/sunstar-ibike-so3-kit.
- Xofo mid-drive with 'un capteur de force'. http://ebike-distribution.fr/Moteur-pedalier-Xofo-36V-250W-adaptable-sur-velo-classique
- Bimoz, I invested but pulled out my contribution before the deadline. Specs seemed too optimistic to me. https://www.indiegogo.com/projects/bimoz-the-world-s-smartest-e-bike-drive-fitness-bicycle#/
I decided on the TSDZ2 because the Sunstar seems proven but also expensive, and the other two are even more obscure than the TSDZ2 used to be. The TSDZ2 seems to gain some following here, I am glad to have found this board!
In hindsight can't fully recommend the kit, mine failed within 10km. I bought from China so service wasn't easy. I let myself be convinced to pay some shipping fee to have a spare part sent, after having done the troubleshooting myself. I like wrenching so don't mind too much, but I do really want the replacement part to hold up!
Thanks, I wish it was that easy, but the motor in the video is not quite the same as mine (though it looks the same) when the guy takes out the motor the blue gear is sitting in the motor. Mine is attached to the shaft like the pictures earlier in this thread. It does not simply fall off like his did. Also if you look closely at the metal spiral gear in the video there is nothing on the end of it. On mine there is a little round bearing. Take a look at pictures earlier in this thread and compare them to when the guy takes out the motor and gets to the blue gear.mscoot said:
DrewSki said:
Ah, yes. I had the same problem. My blue gear was just fine when I opened it up. I opened it only to add a bit of grease so no need to take off the bearings.
I'm guessing all these different bearings are press fitted to the various shafts and seats. Perhaps you'd be able to find a bearing puller that's small enough to work? I suppose you could use a blow torch to carefully heat the bearings to ease it off the shaft. I've worked a lot with old vespa engines and one way of getting the old stuck bearings out of the motor casings is to just put the casings in an oven and set the temperature to somewhere around 150-200 centigrade. After a while you hear a clunk when they fall out. If you're careful with not heating it too much in the oven, you might be able to do it the same way with the electric motor in the tsdz2. Just make sure you're not melting any plastic bits.
If the bearings are tricky to put back on the shaft again afterwards, heat up some oil to about 100-150 celcius and heat the bearings there so they expand a little. Just stay below the flash point (a little under 200 C most of the time.. I think)
This is how I was planning on doing it, anyway. Perhaps I'm overcomplicating things, but I've only worked on old two stroke engines before I opened up this tsdz2 motor.
mscoot said:DrewSki said:I'm guessing all these different bearings are press fitted to the various shafts and seats. Perhaps you'd be able to find a bearing puller that's small enough to work? I suppose you could use a blow torch to carefully heat the bearings to ease it off the shaft. I've worked a lot with old vespa engines and one way of getting the old stuck bearings out of the motor casings is to just put the casings in an oven and set the temperature to somewhere around 150-200 centigrade. After a while you hear a clunk when they fall out. If you're careful with not heating it too much in the oven, you might be able to do it the same way with the electric motor in the tsdz2. Just make sure you're not melting any plastic bits.
If the bearings are tricky to put back on the shaft again afterwards, heat up some oil to about 100-150 celcius and heat the bearings there so they expand a little. Just stay below the flash point (a little under 200 C most of the time.. I think)
This is how I was planning on doing it, anyway. Perhaps I'm overcomplicating things, but I've only worked on old two stroke engines before I opened up this tsdz2 motor.
I can see this being a pain in the butt....if I ever get my replacement gear. Seller told me 2 weeks ago that they were airmailing the part. After emailing them to tell them it was not here yet I asked them for a tracking number. They told me they would send me the tracking number the next day. Next day came and no word from them. I emailed again and they sent me the tracking number. The site tells me that no such number exists. They either did not mail it or they JUST did it and that's why the number is not in the system yet. This has been nothing but hassle with this company from the start
youyoung21147
100 mW
- Joined
- Jul 21, 2016
- Messages
- 41
daenny said:
There are 2 wires coming from the torque sensor. Sorry I don't have a scope to further investigate what these wires are carrying... Here is a picture of the torque sensor, I'm really unsure about what technology it is. Maybe a 2-wire rotating strain gauge with a slip ring. Maybe not.
http://pswpower.com/peng/iview.asp?KeyID=dtpic-2016-7N-N002.6NQCA
Regarding the ball bearings : they are not press-fitted nor loose fit. The tolerance are that bad and you can end up with either case.
Regarding the Xofo MMT with torque sensor : this motor is not ready for market and won't be before a year or so... I have the Xofo MMS and even this one is not a mature product IMO. (it's very powerful and better built than Bafang but the electronic is crap)
If you're saying that tolerances are bad, tolerances could have caused the output shaft of my motor to break within 10 km.youyoung21147 said:
I truly doubt that I overloaded the TSDZ2. I have a 36V battery and kept the current limit in the controller set to 15A. The motor wasn't hot when it failed. And even if the controller would have put through more than 15A (maybe even up to the BMS limited 20A?), the shaft breaking as a result of motor torque would mean that the peak magnetic torque of the motor would be higher than the permissible torque load of the shaft. That sounds improbable to me.
I'm assuming it's something with manufacturing. The electric motor output shaft and gear seem made out of one piece. Maybe this part got hardened too much when (if?) they hardened the gear? And the shaft got brittle?
And/or maybe it's those tolerances. My guess is that the motor has two bearings inside, and that the third little one at the tip of the shaft makes the construction overdetermined. If that is the case, and if (due to tolerances) the bearing at the tip of the shaft wasn't lined up well with the bearings in the motor, you would put the shaft under a bending moment that might get pretty big.
Anyway, I do lots of guessing and don't have a lot of facts. I just hope the replacement part will arrive soon, and that it will not happen again.
One more bearing related question: In my previous post you see that little bearing. I still haven't gotten it off, I guess I'm at the tight end of the tolerance band. Does anyone know what exact type it is, with what kind of seals?
If I can't move this bearing over to the replacement motor that should be on its way, I'm thinking of buying a new bearing to put on the new motor.
If I can't move this bearing over to the replacement motor that should be on its way, I'm thinking of buying a new bearing to put on the new motor.
youyoung21147
100 mW
- Joined
- Jul 21, 2016
- Messages
- 41
MPM : just read the numbers on the bearings and buy new ones. Sealed (2RS) is not mandatory here, flanged (ZZ) is fine. If the shaft broke the bearings may have been overloaded as well so it's cheap & safe to ditch the old ones.
Regarding your output shaft this is a pretty impressive failure. Maybe a problem with the material itself because the shaft is oversized if correctly loaded. Fatigue is unlikely because you didn't ride for very long !
Indeed there are 3 bearings in total on the motor shaft. Maybe during assembly the motor was forced in place and not left to center around its axis, causing excessive bending stress...
Regarding your output shaft this is a pretty impressive failure. Maybe a problem with the material itself because the shaft is oversized if correctly loaded. Fatigue is unlikely because you didn't ride for very long !
Indeed there are 3 bearings in total on the motor shaft. Maybe during assembly the motor was forced in place and not left to center around its axis, causing excessive bending stress...
chas58
10 kW
Bump.
This does look like an interesting motor. if PMSPOWER motor seems to have a lot of problems, and is $100 cheaper than BMSBattery, one wonders if they are really the same motor. The Chinese market tends to go crazy and make lookalike products that look similar on the outside but are built slightly different on the inside. This clearly happens with e-bike motors, and it is hard to tell if one is buying an original. These posts make me think gettting one from PMSPOwer is not the way to go, inspite of the price savings over BMSBattery. BMSbattery is very competitive, so how could the same motor be $100 cheaper? There seems to be a lot of variation in what people have actually bought with these motors.
I had a friend who bought a Rolex over there once.
This does look like an interesting motor. if PMSPOWER motor seems to have a lot of problems, and is $100 cheaper than BMSBattery, one wonders if they are really the same motor. The Chinese market tends to go crazy and make lookalike products that look similar on the outside but are built slightly different on the inside. This clearly happens with e-bike motors, and it is hard to tell if one is buying an original. These posts make me think gettting one from PMSPOwer is not the way to go, inspite of the price savings over BMSBattery. BMSbattery is very competitive, so how could the same motor be $100 cheaper? There seems to be a lot of variation in what people have actually bought with these motors.
I had a friend who bought a Rolex over there once.
How quickly does the TSDZ2 respond to pedal force change?
For example, on a Thun Torque Sensor with CA3 I found the best settings resulted in just enough delay that it works fine for a hub, but would make shifting (under heavy load) a two-step process for a crank-spinner.
If you can describe the timing of power on-power off please do.
Also, has anyone connected a throttle to the back of the VLCD5 display?
For example, on a Thun Torque Sensor with CA3 I found the best settings resulted in just enough delay that it works fine for a hub, but would make shifting (under heavy load) a two-step process for a crank-spinner.
If you can describe the timing of power on-power off please do.
Also, has anyone connected a throttle to the back of the VLCD5 display?
Just to share my experience so far:
I ordered a TSDZ2 with the "small" XH18 display from PSWpower. I ordered the kit on Oct 25, it was shipped on Oct 26 and I received it on Oct 31, with DHL. I never got anything that quick from China. I had to pay about 30GBP extra to DHL for import (115USD was declared as value for the motor).
Fitting the motor was easy. The bottom bracket of my bike needed a slight touch with a dremel, as the motor did not fit through completely. But otherwise, if you have the tools for bottom bracket and crank removal, it's a really easy and quick build.
The XH18 Display is still rather large, at least in terms of handle bar space, since the very unnecessary twist grip for changing the support makes it a lot wider than needed.. It could be a fraction of the size, maybe I will take the display apart at some point and see if I can fit two buttons instead of the twist grip. There is an unconnected wire (purple) going to the display. I did not measure yet if there is any voltage on it. So maybe that could be used for connecting a light or USB, as the display supports switching light on/off.
The motor feels very nice. I have a GSM middrive from Woosh, with a custom VESC and Teensy based "Cycle analyst" controller, which is also a very smooth ride. But torque control feels definitely more "bike like". So while with my GSM I manually adjust the support a lot, i.e. a little bit more Watts for uphill, a throttle boost for quickly overtaking someone or still making over the traffic light, the torque control does this good enough without me having to click buttons, but just putting more or less force into the pedals. Shifting is really not an issue, just put a little bit less force on the pedals and shifting goes smoothly (on a Deore derailleur).
So the torque control is responsive and quickly reacts to changes. It's not as good as the new Bosch middrives, but then again it's a fraction of the price.
I directly re-greased the big toothed weel at the chainwheel side with the small pinion gear, so I do not know how it sounded before. I was a bit worried at first, since it sounds rather rough when it's not assembled on the bike. But when actually running with load on the streets, it's about the same as my GSM. I never had a Bafang to compare. It's definitely audible especially with higher power and more rpms, but still silent enough that I do not think that you will hear it when you are more than 1 or 2 meters away.
By the way, I am running it on 12s LiPo, with two 6s 8000mah MultiStar packs from HobbyKing. The power is plenty for me, as I really only want support and not a electric motorcycle, so that really depends on what you want. Of course the battery indicator is now useless for me, at the moment I have a LiPo warner in my bag. I am still thinking of how to solve that a bit neater.
To sum up, so far I am positively surprised and impressed by that little motor, but I will have to see how it holds up.
I ordered a TSDZ2 with the "small" XH18 display from PSWpower. I ordered the kit on Oct 25, it was shipped on Oct 26 and I received it on Oct 31, with DHL. I never got anything that quick from China
. I had to pay about 30GBP extra to DHL for import (115USD was declared as value for the motor). Fitting the motor was easy. The bottom bracket of my bike needed a slight touch with a dremel, as the motor did not fit through completely. But otherwise, if you have the tools for bottom bracket and crank removal, it's a really easy and quick build.
The XH18 Display is still rather large, at least in terms of handle bar space, since the very unnecessary twist grip for changing the support makes it a lot wider than needed.. It could be a fraction of the size, maybe I will take the display apart at some point and see if I can fit two buttons instead of the twist grip. There is an unconnected wire (purple) going to the display. I did not measure yet if there is any voltage on it. So maybe that could be used for connecting a light or USB, as the display supports switching light on/off.
The motor feels very nice. I have a GSM middrive from Woosh, with a custom VESC and Teensy based "Cycle analyst" controller, which is also a very smooth ride. But torque control feels definitely more "bike like". So while with my GSM I manually adjust the support a lot, i.e. a little bit more Watts for uphill, a throttle boost for quickly overtaking someone or still making over the traffic light, the torque control does this good enough without me having to click buttons, but just putting more or less force into the pedals. Shifting is really not an issue, just put a little bit less force on the pedals and shifting goes smoothly (on a Deore derailleur).
So the torque control is responsive and quickly reacts to changes. It's not as good as the new Bosch middrives, but then again it's a fraction of the price.
I directly re-greased the big toothed weel at the chainwheel side with the small pinion gear, so I do not know how it sounded before. I was a bit worried at first, since it sounds rather rough when it's not assembled on the bike. But when actually running with load on the streets, it's about the same as my GSM. I never had a Bafang to compare. It's definitely audible especially with higher power and more rpms, but still silent enough that I do not think that you will hear it when you are more than 1 or 2 meters away.
By the way, I am running it on 12s LiPo, with two 6s 8000mah MultiStar packs from HobbyKing. The power is plenty for me, as I really only want support and not a electric motorcycle, so that really depends on what you want. Of course the battery indicator is now useless for me, at the moment I have a LiPo warner in my bag. I am still thinking of how to solve that a bit neater.
To sum up, so far I am positively surprised and impressed by that little motor, but I will have to see how it holds up.
I'm not yet sure about the function of the purple wire on the display cable (maybe some sort of a serial signal with 3.3V?), but I think I discovered where you can find the light output.daenny said:
It is on the plug for the speed sensor / reed switch. Should be a green wire with 6V when on. GND should be the orange one. White is 5V (via pullup?) and pulled to GND through the reed switch.
I bought an extension cable for the display to cut it open and measure signals.
Here is a picture where I have marked the plug pins with wire colors according to this cable, at least purple matches with the display cable.
(But of course, I don't guarantee that this informations are correct.)
Ok, a quick update. Today, I charged my LiPos to 4.1V per cell (49.2V). And while the Display switched on, there was not support from the motor whatsoever. So, I already feared that I fried the controller or something, but luckily I had another 4s LiPo from the same brand and capacity lying around. I tested with 10s (6s + 4s) and it worked again. When I tried the last two days I started with around 45V-46V, since I used the same pack that I usually used on my other bike.
Apparently, there is a high voltage cut somewhere in the controller. I am a bit confused, since in the German forum someone was saying that he is riding the motor with 50V... (http://www.pedelecforum.de/forum/in...tor-umbausatz-du-250.34285/page-5#post-568806)...
@hurzhurz: thanks for the info. I might have a look at some point.
EDIT:
Later in the thread someone did the test, the upper limit is 47,1V. So 11S should work, but 12s only with batteries charged to 3.95..
http://www.pedelecforum.de/forum/index.php?posts/744529
Apparently, there is a high voltage cut somewhere in the controller. I am a bit confused, since in the German forum someone was saying that he is riding the motor with 50V... (http://www.pedelecforum.de/forum/in...tor-umbausatz-du-250.34285/page-5#post-568806)...
@hurzhurz: thanks for the info. I might have a look at some point.
EDIT:
Later in the thread someone did the test, the upper limit is 47,1V. So 11S should work, but 12s only with batteries charged to 3.95..
http://www.pedelecforum.de/forum/index.php?posts/744529
Well, that cable looks promising.thowaa said:
But as I am not sure and I don't know if/where you can buy it, it might be easier to buy an extension cable and make such a cable by your self.
Besides, I think I have discovered the functions of all wires from the LCD cable:
black: GND (battery -)
green: VCC (battery +)
white: signal from LCD to motor to enable the controller, (VCC-0.9V, perhaps through an input diode in the LCD)
purple: brake switch / motor cut off when connected to GND
brown: serial data from motor/controller to LCD
orange: serial data from LCD to motor/controller
serial is 9600 baud, messages are for example:
LCD->motor
59 40 00 1C 00 1B D0
1. fixed/startbyte = 59?
2. byte contains flags for the selected step,light and 6kmh. 40=01000000=step1. bits from left to right as i know: unknown,step1,6kmh-active,off,step4,step3,step2,headlight
3. not sure
4. wheel size, 1C hex = 28inch
5. not sure
6. max speed, 1B hex = 27(kmh?)
7. 1byte checksum
motor->LCD
43 00 01 51 51 00 07 07 F4
1. fixed/startbyte = 43?
2. battery level, 0=lowest (about 33V if i remember right), 0A=10 is max due to LCD (about 38V) but can be higher
3. motor state, but not sure. 01 was when off and i have seen 0D or 05 when 6kmh mode
4.&5. not sure, maybe pedal speed or force, 5151=idle
6. error code, for example 08 like shown in display for low voltage
7.&8. maybe speed, 0707=idle, have seen 6C00 or so when playing with the magnet at the speed sensor
9. 1byte checksum
i haven’t installed the motor yet, so my test possibilities are limited.
but i'm thinking about building a data logger.
and i think it is interesting that the magnet count setting at the XH18LCD is not transferred to the motor which decides to reduce its speed alone. so more than one magnet might restrict the max speed.
boogieBeats
1 mW
- Joined
- Nov 3, 2016
- Messages
- 18
hurzhurz said:
Hurzhurz, what was your method of reading the serial transmission? I'm am thinking of getting on these kits and am interested in reverse engineering it in a similar way.
I have some new insights I'd like to share:
Full pin assignment of the speed sensor plug:
orange: GND
brown: 5V (controller MCU supply voltage)
green: headlight 6V
white: speed sensor input (with pullup resistor to 5V)
black: SWIM
purple: RESET
SWIM and RESET, together with 5V/GND, are a programming interface for the MCU of the controller.
This should be the connection they used in this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tj2aYtma64o
I bought a cheap ST-LINK/V2 programmer (clone?) and it looks like I was able to successfully read out the program and data memory with STVP.
Is someone here with experience in decompiling STM8 programs (and interpreting the result)?
Full pin assignment of the speed sensor plug:
orange: GND
brown: 5V (controller MCU supply voltage)
green: headlight 6V
white: speed sensor input (with pullup resistor to 5V)
black: SWIM
purple: RESET
SWIM and RESET, together with 5V/GND, are a programming interface for the MCU of the controller.
This should be the connection they used in this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tj2aYtma64o
I bought a cheap ST-LINK/V2 programmer (clone?) and it looks like I was able to successfully read out the program and data memory with STVP.
Is someone here with experience in decompiling STM8 programs (and interpreting the result)?
nicokosch
1 µW
hurzhurz said:
Hi hurzhurz,
so the 6v output is controlled from the display ? thanks
I'm building mi first e-bike with this motor, It seems fine, the only problems are the bearing housing interference that are disastrous...
Another thing I noticed is that on my motor shaft of the pedals is only one bearing, while on the other there are two ...
