New "TSDZ2 Torque Sensor Central Motor"

[I Hate Tax]

^^ I can only confirm from the one time my battery drained that the B version is not pleasant to ride unassisted. Can't compare to tsdz2

With the B version the top part in this picture (mounting plate?) has grooves that supposedly improve it


Well, in my case, the locking ring comes loose every 150 km. Other than that everything has been perfect (only at about 600 km now)
Many ways to try and solve this issue. Just a heads up

 

[mattam]

Tongsheng TSDZ2 36V - neues Design 2020

.... casainho auf endless-sphere.com hat den Controller V2 über J-Link folgendermaßen angesteuert: Wenn die Pins für Beleuchtung und Geschwindigkeit, Versorgungsspannung und Masse mit dem alten V1-Controller kompatibel sind, werden SWCLK und SWD/SPD immer SWIM und RST ersetzen und die...

www.pedelecforum.de

I have read this German thread. The guy who measured the drag of the new TSDZ2-B model, did it incorrectly, he measured the resistance of the gasket on the freewheel. After correcting the pressure on the gasket the new TSDZ2B freewheel spins freely as in the bafang motor. Tongsheng TSDZ2 36V - neues Design 2020

 

[mattam]

^^ I can only confirm from the one time my battery drained that the B version is not pleasant to ride unassisted. Can't compare to tsdz2

With the B version the top part in this picture (mounting plate?) has grooves that supposedly improve it
View attachment 333271

Well, in my case, the locking ring comes loose every 150 km. Other than that everything has been perfect (only at about 600 km now)
Many ways to try and solve this issue. Just a heads up

Have you checked whether this hard riding feeling comes from the gasket under the spider screwed too tightly to the new freewheel clutch? I read in German forums that people assembled the B-version incorrectly (with too much pressure on the gaskets) and this caused the excessive drag when riding unassited: Tongsheng TSDZ2 36V - neues Design 2020

 

[pxl666]

hey guys - yesterday a friend visited me with brand new tsdz2 from pswpower . motor installed in bike was NOT ASSISTING AT ALL not even buzzed...
walk assist wasn't working also . display workid , speed working but that's all . coin toss - return or flash . flash it is .
MOTOR IS WORKING ...wtf!!! working like a charm ...
so beware , before installing in the frame - test walk assist first , and make sure u have friend with stlink ...

 

[sysrq]

Can't imagine hills being an issue really. On max assist you can basically ride up with 0 effort, and it's almost the same on level 3, just a little slower with a tiny bit more effort. (still fast, just not as fast as max)
I haven't broken a sweat biking since I installed the motor. (48 V 500 W)

I was afraid I would not like it, or have issues with it, the stock firmware, etc. etc. In hindsight this seems absurd. I can't imagine anyone not liking this.

But what about when you are hauling your cooler. I hope someone has an answer. My feeling tells me the tsdz2 will be fine for it., especially with heat mod.

Here's someone who uses it to transport their children (average 5 y.o. weighs about 20 kg): Bakfiets cargo bike with a TSDZ2 mid-motor


Thinking about your situation, if you're hauling all/most of the time, a bafang seems the simplest way to reduce the effort. Hauling things doesn't really bring me joy in riding, so I wouldn't care how a it feels, or if it's fun. Just get me from here to yonder.

For example, I've tried 2 hub motor bikes and the tsdz2 blows both of them out of the water. But - if the hub bikes haul better, and I'm hauling every day, I'd choose a hub bike. As other posters have said, apparently the bafang is a bit more beasty. It can enable "ghost pedaling".

That said, max assist on the TSDZ2 also feels like ghost pedaling to me.

Just my 2 cents since I saw no reply yet

The only difference is that peddling the TSDZ2 without any pedal pressure on max assist there is no support at all. Sometimes it's hard to say if it more like an torque sensor with on of switch similar to cadence PAS or not, especially when the CNS fatigue sets in after 80km of complex paved rural routes with few inclines up to 17%. The torque sensor senses the CNS fatigue and then accordingly reduces the support from the motor.

 

[Carlo772]

I have a brand new tsdz2b that is only a week old that i think already broke with controller problems after it was flashed and worked fine after three rides. It suddenly stopped working near the end of my ride on the way home. I have not seen this problem before.

Its a replacement for an older broken tsdz2 that caused me loads of problems. The last problem it had was the blue gear died and I was not able to remove the motor because one of the screws for the motor housing is stuck. It appears that is because of galvanisation between the aluminium case and the steel screw over a year. When i first got the motor i was able to remove the motor screw as i put in a heat sink plate and thermal paste.

So when I try and remove the screws there the screwdriver rounds out the screw as its a soft metal screw head and you cant get it out. I also had the same problem with outside hex bolt that mounts the outer case to the crank where the hex bolt broke off leaving the screw part stuck in the case making the outer case unusable. So i had to replace that with a new outer case housing.

The whole problem unit tszd2 was then replaced with a new tsdz2b model that has a new white gear that is better for coping with greater torque and double clutch.

The B model seems a more robust improvement. I opened the screws to the motor and put copaslip grease used for cars to help with this sort of galvanising problem on the motor housing screws. So hopefully this motor will be serviceable if I need to remove the screws to do any future repairs to open it. I have on order a new heat sink plate that i will fit next week when it arrives.

I flashed the tsdz2b with the latest open source version using the same 52v battery and setting that worked on the tsdz2 before it. I am using the latest TSDZ2-Smart-EBike-1-20.1C.2-update-2 version.

My setting used in this screen shot:

52v-Settings hosted at ImgBB

Image 52v-Settings hosted in ImgBB

ibb.co

I had been on three long rides over a few days and recharged the battery over night. The new b model double clutch is easier to ride with no assist and handy when the motor breaks down so its easier to pedal home but its still hard work. Its way better than the older single clutch design that had more resistance.

On my third ride when i was at 60% battery going up a steep hill on the display the battery meter suddenly went down to one bar and no assist. Turn it back off and on to reset and its stuck at 1 bar and no assist.

My cut off is at 46.2v so i have plenty of battery left. I checked the battery at home using a multi-meter and confirmed it had plenty of charge at 52.2v left. I recharged the battery over night and its now at 57v. Tried it again and the same problem that the display starts up 1 bar and there is no assist. So an over night wait and let the power clear from the capacitors didn't help.

When i turn the display off there is a message on the screen that shows only "off" at the bottom and it stays stuck there saying "off". I recall it used to flash "off" quickly and then the screen went blank after you press the power button. I cant turn it back on again when its stuck with this "off" sign by pressing the display power button. I have not seen that before. I have to use the battery power switch to cut power to do a reset and then can turn it back on but get 1 bar again. You can use the +- to change the assist level and the display updates and can cycle through the odometer ui area with the i button.

I tried another spare vlcd5 display and that showed the same problem as the new one that came with the tsdz2b. So its not a display issue.

I re-flashed the controller and that went ok according to the flashing software final message that it accepted and verified the flash worked. Using the same settings that worked before for 52v batter set to 10amps max you can see in the screen shot. On turning it back on I have the same 1 bar power available problem. The display when it turns on it does not do the E02 flashing thing and the UI changes to with the usual open source showing the parameters like battery % and volts. So i don't think that the open source firmware is working on the controller. I flashed it successfully two more times and restarted the display and still stuck on 1 bar and no assists with that off stuck and no presence of the open source firmware.

One small possibility is that i soldered the power wires from the motor to the battery housing to replace Anderson connector that i found gets water into it and caused problems with the plastic connector warped so i removed the anderson connector and soldered the two cables and wrapped with heat shrink and electrical tape. It seems pretty solid and i can get power going through it no problem. To be sure i removed some of the tape at the motor end and voltage testing found the power was 57.2 so power is getting in fine.

So all i can think is that the controller is somehow not working.

Has anyone seen this problem before or have any insight? Should i replace the controller?

Thanks

 

[Kiwago]

Hello. I Have a problem with flashing P860C display with mbrusa FW. I use self built programmer powered through USB hub. It works perfectly with 850C. When I connect p860C and click update firmware than short press power button nothing happens. On APT screen it is just "waiting". On programmer red diode (the one close to TX gets dark) On APT software TX bits are counting but RX is 0. I can switch the display on with stock firmware. Is it faulty since it shows "0V" and empty battery even when it is switch on with 36V ? When I tried to flash it witout USB hub, after pressing "power" I got "overcurrent" message on my laptop and USB port was switched off.

 

[Carlo772]

I have a brand new tsdz2b that is only a week old that i think already broke with controller problems after it was flashed and worked fine after three rides. It suddenly stopped working near the end of my ride on the way home. I have not seen this problem before.

Its a replacement for an older broken tsdz2 that caused me loads of problems. The last problem it had was the blue gear died and I was not able to remove the motor because one of the screws for the motor housing is stuck. It appears that is because of galvanisation between the aluminium case and the steel screw over a year. When i first got the motor i was able to remove the motor screw as i put in a heat sink plate and thermal paste.

So when I try and remove the screws there the screwdriver rounds out the screw as its a soft metal screw head and you cant get it out. I also had the same problem with outside hex bolt that mounts the outer case to the crank where the hex bolt broke off leaving the screw part stuck in the case making the outer case unusable. So i had to replace that with a new outer case housing.

The whole problem unit tszd2 was then replaced with a new tsdz2b model that has a new white gear that is better for coping with greater torque and double clutch.

The B model seems a more robust improvement. I opened the screws to the motor and put copaslip grease used for cars to help with this sort of galvanising problem on the motor housing screws. So hopefully this motor will be serviceable if I need to remove the screws to do any future repairs to open it. I have on order a new heat sink plate that i will fit next week when it arrives.

I flashed the tsdz2b with the latest open source version using the same 52v battery and setting that worked on the tsdz2 before it. I am using the latest TSDZ2-Smart-EBike-1-20.1C.2-update-2 version.

My setting used in this screen shot:

52v-Settings hosted at ImgBB

Image 52v-Settings hosted in ImgBB

ibb.co

I had been on three long rides over a few days and recharged the battery over night. The new b model double clutch is easier to ride with no assist and handy when the motor breaks down so its easier to pedal home but its still hard work. Its way better than the older single clutch design that had more resistance.

On my third ride when i was at 60% battery going up a steep hill on the display the battery meter suddenly went down to one bar and no assist. Turn it back off and on to reset and its stuck at 1 bar and no assist.

My cut off is at 46.2v so i have plenty of battery left. I checked the battery at home using a multi-meter and confirmed it had plenty of charge at 52.2v left. I recharged the battery over night and its now at 57v. Tried it again and the same problem that the display starts up 1 bar and there is no assist. So an over night wait and let the power clear from the capacitors didn't help.

When i turn the display off there is a message on the screen that shows only "off" at the bottom and it stays stuck there saying "off". I recall it used to flash "off" quickly and then the screen went blank after you press the power button. I cant turn it back on again when its stuck with this "off" sign by pressing the display power button. I have not seen that before. I have to use the battery power switch to cut power to do a reset and then can turn it back on but get 1 bar again. You can use the +- to change the assist level and the display updates and can cycle through the odometer ui area with the i button.

I tried another spare vlcd5 display and that showed the same problem as the new one that came with the tsdz2b. So its not a display issue.

I re-flashed the controller and that went ok according to the flashing software final message that it accepted and verified the flash worked. Using the same settings that worked before for 52v batter set to 10amps max you can see in the screen shot. On turning it back on I have the same 1 bar power available problem. The display when it turns on it does not do the E02 flashing thing and the UI changes to with the usual open source showing the parameters like battery % and volts. So i don't think that the open source firmware is working on the controller. I flashed it successfully two more times and restarted the display and still stuck on 1 bar and no assists with that off stuck and no presence of the open source firmware.

One small possibility is that i soldered the power wires from the motor to the battery housing to replace Anderson connector that i found gets water into it and caused problems with the plastic connector warped so i removed the anderson connector and soldered the two cables and wrapped with heat shrink and electrical tape. It seems pretty solid and i can get power going through it no problem. To be sure i removed some of the tape at the motor end and voltage testing found the power was 57.2 so power is getting in fine.

So all i can think is that the controller is somehow not working.

Has anyone seen this problem before or have any insight? Should i replace the controller?

Thanks

Hi I hope someone with more tsdz2 maintainer experience can help me figure out what's wrong with this new motor.

Today I tried to repair this new tsdz2b by opening the motor and testing a spare controller i have that i know works as it accepted the open source software and i used it on the old motor fine. If it worked then i planned to remove and replace the broken controller and do the waterproofing for the cable and it would all be fixed.

However to my surprise I found oddly that both the current and the spare controller have the same problem. They are able to accept the flashing of the OS firmware but on swapping the controller units the motor when turning on still does not works with the display showing 1 bar and this strange stuck off message if you press the power button to turn off.

So It has same problem as the current tsdz2b controller thats already attached so no point yet in replacing it which is a big job and waterproofing hassle.

What i did was I removed the motor dust cover and disconnected the current controller cables and wire it up the spare controller. I cant ride it this way but it was just to test the controller was at fault on the UI with 1 bar and no assists and this stuck off message.

I cut the power cable that I soldered to battery housing to not use anderson connector and just quickly twisted the power wires together. This is so i really know that my soldering was not at fault. The multimeter measured the volts at 57.1 where i twisted the power wires from an almost fully charged 52v battery .

Here is a picture of what i did so you can get the idea:

thumbnail-Volts hosted at ImgBB

Image thumbnail-Volts hosted in ImgBB

ibb.co

You can see enough volts going into the motor is fine so it cant be a flat battery making it show 1 bar. With both of the controllers VLCD5 display does not do the open source start up sequence to show parameters instead it only shows 1 bar. I took a pic and put a link below. I cant cycle the E02 E03 E04 with the power button so its like no open source flashed software present.

thumbnail-ON hosted at ImgBB

Image thumbnail-ON hosted in ImgBB

ibb.co

thumbnail-OFF hosted at ImgBB

Image thumbnail-OFF hosted in ImgBB

ibb.co

I dont think its the display, controller or battery based on this testing.

I have a spare display and could attach that but i already tested that and it has the same problem. I also have a 32v battery that i used on a Bafang that fits this housing and i know can flash the firmware to use 32v instead of 48v (52v in my case)

I am really not sure what is going on or what to replace/repair. When i flash the firmware i use three wires 5v, swim and ground. I don't have the forth swim reset wire connected and so far it worked without it. I ran out of connectors so only have 3 cables but could try and make another cable to use the reset if you think its important.

Thanks for your help. I really need it.

 

[pxl666]

Hi I hope someone with more tsdz2 maintainer experience can help me figure out what's wrong with this new motor.

Today I tried to repair this new tsdz2b by opening the motor and testing a spare controller i have that i know works as it accepted the open source software and i used it on the old motor fine. If it worked then i planned to remove and replace the broken controller and do the waterproofing for the cable and it would all be fixed.

However to my surprise I found oddly that both the current and the spare controller have the same problem. They are able to accept the flashing of the OS firmware but on swapping the controller units the motor when turning on still does not works with the display showing 1 bar and this strange stuck off message if you press the power button to turn off.

So It has same problem as the current tsdz2b controller thats already attached so no point yet in replacing it which is a big job and waterproofing hassle.

What i did was I removed the motor dust cover and disconnected the current controller cables and wire it up the spare controller. I cant ride it this way but it was just to test the controller was at fault on the UI with 1 bar and no assists and this stuck off message.

I cut the power cable that I soldered to battery housing to not use anderson connector and just quickly twisted the power wires together. This is so i really know that my soldering was not at fault. The multimeter measured the volts at 57.1 where i twisted the power wires from an almost fully charged 52v battery .

Here is a picture of what i did so you can get the idea:

thumbnail-Volts hosted at ImgBB

Image thumbnail-Volts hosted in ImgBB

ibb.co

You can see enough volts going into the motor is fine so it cant be a flat battery making it show 1 bar. With both of the controllers VLCD5 display does not do the open source start up sequence to show parameters instead it only shows 1 bar. I took a pic and put a link below. I cant cycle the E02 E03 E04 with the power button so its like no open source flashed software present.

thumbnail-ON hosted at ImgBB

Image thumbnail-ON hosted in ImgBB

ibb.co

thumbnail-OFF hosted at ImgBB

Image thumbnail-OFF hosted in ImgBB

ibb.co

I dont think its the display, controller or battery based on this testing.

I have a spare display and could attach that but i already tested that and it has the same problem. I also have a 32v battery that i used on a Bafang that fits this housing and i know can flash the firmware to use 32v instead of 48v (52v in my case)

I am really not sure what is going on or what to replace/repair. When i flash the firmware i use three wires 5v, swim and ground. I don't have the forth swim reset wire connected and so far it worked without it. I ran out of connectors so only have 3 cables but could try and make another cable to use the reset if you think its important.

Thanks for your help. I really need it.

can you try to flash 48v battery option and then see if it works ?

 

[Carlo772]

can you try to flash 48v battery option and then see if it works ?

I have it set already at 48v choice in the open source UI. The motor is a 48v and the battery 52v 14s model 19 amp hours.

52v-Settings hosted at ImgBB

Image 52v-Settings hosted in ImgBB

imgbb.com

I dont see if there is anything to change in the open source flash program as 48v is already selected as you can see.

Maybe 10 amps is too low? however i have been using 10 amps for many months on this and a previos motor and it worked fine.

The 52v battery worked when it was used on the stock controller and then later when i flashed the open source firmware with the settings in the screen shot that i think are all correct.

Then on my third long ride after an hour going up a steep hill the motor stopped assistance and showed 1 bar on the UI and stuck showing that and unresponsive and nothing changes on a reset. Though the battery was at 60% full.

Could is be this version of the open source software? I will test it with an older version that i used previously that worked: TSDZ2-Smart-EBike-1-20.1C.2-update-1/

Currently its flashed with TSDZ2-Smart-EBike-1-20.1C.2-update-2 and showing 1 bar no assist and wont restart.

 

[raylo32]

I just installed a new TSDZ2B to replace my 3 year old original model that needs some work. I got it from Eco-Cycles in Nashville, same place I bought the first one, but this time with OSF and cooling mods pre-installed. Fast shipping, came perfectly packaged, fired right up into the latest OSF. Initial impressions are that it rides pretty much exactly like the old one, which means smooth and quiet. I have not yet had it apart nor do I intend to do that anytime soon. But I was wondering about differences in maintenance, especially regarding the new press fit composite gear that replaces the old blue (or brass) gear. Is that going to be harder to replace if it wears out or breaks? Anyone here had a B model apart yet?

 

[pxl666]

I just installed a new TSDZ2B to replace my 3 year old original model that needs some work. I got it from Eco-Cycles in Nashville, same place I bought the first one, but this time with OSF and cooling mods pre-installed. Fast shipping, came perfectly packaged, fired right up into the latest OSF. Initial impressions are that it rides pretty much exactly like the old one, which means smooth and quiet. I have not yet had it apart nor do I intend to do that anytime soon. But I was wondering about differences in maintenance, especially regarding the new press fit composite gear that replaces the old blue (or brass) gear. Is that going to be harder to replace if it wears out or breaks? Anyone here had a B model apart yet?

the idea is that you never replace it

 

[pxl666]

I have it set already at 48v choice in the open source UI. The motor is a 48v and the battery 52v 14s model 19 amp hours.

52v-Settings hosted at ImgBB

Image 52v-Settings hosted in ImgBB

imgbb.com

I dont see if there is anything to change in the open source flash program as 48v is already selected as you can see.

Maybe 10 amps is too low? however i have been using 10 amps for many months on this and a previos motor and it worked fine.

The 52v battery worked when it was used on the stock controller and then later when i flashed the open source firmware with the settings in the screen shot that i think are all correct.

Then on my third long ride after an hour going up a steep hill the motor stopped assistance and showed 1 bar on the UI and stuck showing that and unresponsive and nothing changes on a reset. Though the battery was at 60% full.

Could is be this version of the open source software? I will test it with an older version that i used previously that worked: TSDZ2-Smart-EBike-1-20.1C.2-update-1/

Currently its flashed with TSDZ2-Smart-EBike-1-20.1C.2-update-2 and showing 1 bar no assist and wont restart.

did it happed with relation to display change ?

 

[beemac]

Then on my third long ride after an hour going up a steep hill the motor stopped assistance...

Sounds like you've probably cooked your motor, do you have temperature mods/sensor installed? If not, it's highly likely you've overheated the motor and demagnetized the magnets and/or melted the insulation on the motor windings. To be sure you need to open the motor and see what it looks like.

Usually the motor still works, just weaker.. this is what it looks like inside when overheated:

TSDZ2 motor demagnetized due to overheating

 

[Carlo772]

Sounds like you've probably cooked your motor, do you have temperature mods/sensor installed? If not, it's highly likely you've overheated the motor and demagnetized the magnets and/or melted the insulation on the motor windings. To be sure you need to open the motor and see what it looks like.

Usually the motor still works, just weaker.. this is what it looks like inside when overheated:

TSDZ2 motor demagnetized due to overheating

Good idea i will open it and take a look if the motor windings are fried. If its fried send you a pic of that. I find it hard to believe but maybe as everything else leads to that. It was set low at 10 amps to prevent that happening. I had a tsdz2 about a year ago that i had set at 16 amps and the controller caught fire while i was riding it. I read somewhere that it was fine to run at 16amps but nope that is not good idea especially for 52v battery. Now i am really cautious and set it lower.

However i did change on that last ride the max speed on the display to allow more than 15 mph to max at 25mph to see how well the motor worked. Maybe that has something to do with it dying when going up a steep hill and the motor fried. Pretty poor if it cant handle 10amps and 1 hour riding with a hill at the end. I didn't have the cooling mod on this motor yet as waiting for it to be sent. That ride i did for leasure many times with the other tsdz2 motors and went fine then.

Really with all these problems this tsdz motor has i long for a better one that does not have failures every few months. Though the motor is cheap its not when you have bought 4 of them as replacments. Two have stuck screws so i cant service the blue gear, one had the clutch go i replaced that but took time and now has the blue gear broken with a stuck screw. One caught fire though that one was probably my fault.

It seems now in the market there maybe other options but i also wonder what their quality is like and they are more expensive. I have a bafang bbs01 but the cadence sensing is not great once you tried a torque sensor.

As i have just bought the tsdz2b motor i have contacted the seller and asked for a return. I sent them photos and they think its the display and want to send me one to test but i have a spare display and already tested that does not work. I will try the display on the broken gear tsdz2 and send them pic the display is fine and then i guess return it.

So probably i will send it back and get a refund or can ask for a replacement tsdz2b. But is it worth it?

 

[Carlo772]

Good idea i will open it and take a look if the motor windings are fried. If its fried send you a pic of that. I find it hard to believe but maybe as everything else leads to that. It was set low at 10 amps to prevent that happening. I had a tsdz2 about a year ago that i had set at 16 amps and the controller caught fire while i was riding it. I read somewhere that it was fine to run at 16amps but nope that is not good idea especially for 52v battery. Now i am really cautious and set it lower.

However i did change on that last ride the max speed on the display to allow more than 15 mph to max at 25mph to see how well the motor worked. Maybe that has something to do with it dying when going up a steep hill and the motor fried. Pretty poor if it cant handle 10amps and 1 hour riding with a hill at the end. I didn't have the cooling mod on this motor yet as waiting for it to be sent. That ride i did for leasure many times with the other tsdz2 motors and went fine then.

Really with all these problems this tsdz motor has i long for a better one that does not have failures every few months. Though the motor is cheap its not when you have bought 4 of them as replacments. Two have stuck screws so i cant service the blue gear, one had the clutch go i replaced that but took time and now has the blue gear broken with a stuck screw. One caught fire though that one was probably my fault.

It seems now in the market there maybe other options but i also wonder what their quality is like and they are more expensive. I have a bafang bbs01 but the cadence sensing is not great once you tried a torque sensor.

As i have just bought the tsdz2b motor i have contacted the seller and asked for a return. I sent them photos and they think its the display and want to send me one to test but i have a spare display and already tested that does not work. I will try the display on the broken gear tsdz2 and send them pic the display is fine and then i guess return it.

So probably i will send it back and get a refund or can ask for a replacement tsdz2b. But is it worth it?

I took off the motor and it looks quite ok:

thumbnail3 hosted at ImgBB

Image thumbnail3 hosted in ImgBB

ibb.co

thumbnail-2motorjpg hosted at ImgBB

Image thumbnail-2motorjpg hosted in ImgBB

ibb.co

thumbnail-Innerjpg hosted at ImgBB

Image thumbnail-Innerjpg hosted in ImgBB

ibb.co

If you are wondering what the brown copper is on the motor is coppaslip grease for the screws so it does not galvanise the aluminium to the steel screw. The screws came out easy with it.

I didnt see any screws to open the motor unit to see the burnt windings. If i want to return it i dont want to damage it.

 

[pxl666]

to see windings you have to open it up . on the other hand - does walk mode work ?

 

[beemac]

Good idea i will open it and take a look if the motor windings are fried. If its fried send you a pic of that. I find it hard to believe but maybe as everything else leads to that. It was set low at 10 amps to prevent that happening. I had a tsdz2 about a year ago that i had set at 16 amps and the controller caught fire while i was riding it. I read somewhere that it was fine to run at 16amps but nope that is not good idea especially for 52v battery. Now i am really cautious and set it lower.

However i did change on that last ride the max speed on the display to allow more than 15 mph to max at 25mph to see how well the motor worked. Maybe that has something to do with it dying when going up a steep hill and the motor fried. Pretty poor if it cant handle 10amps and 1 hour riding with a hill at the end. I didn't have the cooling mod on this motor yet as waiting for it to be sent. That ride i did for leasure many times with the other tsdz2 motors and went fine then.

Really with all these problems this tsdz motor has i long for a better one that does not have failures every few months. Though the motor is cheap its not when you have bought 4 of them as replacments. Two have stuck screws so i cant service the blue gear, one had the clutch go i replaced that but took time and now has the blue gear broken with a stuck screw. One caught fire though that one was probably my fault.

It seems now in the market there maybe other options but i also wonder what their quality is like and they are more expensive. I have a bafang bbs01 but the cadence sensing is not great once you tried a torque sensor.

As i have just bought the tsdz2b motor i have contacted the seller and asked for a return. I sent them photos and they think its the display and want to send me one to test but i have a spare display and already tested that does not work. I will try the display on the broken gear tsdz2 and send them pic the display is fine and then i guess return it.

So probably i will send it back and get a refund or can ask for a replacement tsdz2b. But is it worth it?

Hopefully it's not cooked, but I think even at 10A you can still overheat it. The problem is the motor is effectively insulated inside the case and 10A = c.500W and even that's probably too much for a long time. It obv depends on things like the ambient temp but I'd never ride a tsdz2 without temp mods+sensor again having fried one motor.

As for reliability - yes it's a mixed bag with the tsdz2. I've had relatively few issues on both my bikes but I'm a city/trail rider. I don't do hardcore mtb/downhill - and I ride it like a bike in moderate assist (3 out of 7 for the fw I'm using).

If you don't have temp mods or a temp sensor, if you use a throttle, or expect to start in high gears or don't have brake sensors then I think you're likely to see failures much more often than if you do the opposite to all those things.

Even with temp mods and sensor I can still get the motor too hot on just city riding up relatively gentle, but long, hills and it throttles back - at UK ambient temps.

You could always try fitting a VESC + torque sensor to your bbs01 like casainho has done to his m500 OpenSourceEBike.github.io

 

[mattam]

Hello, I would like to connect my TSDZ2 to a 850c or 860c display. Unfortunately I couldn't find any information on the internet regarding the rewiring of all the needed cables, brake sensors, throttle cable etc so that I can connect the motor to the 850c display. Currently I have a VLCD5 display (connected via the 8pin connector to the motor) and would like to replace it by 850c/860c. Do you have any information or links that can help me with connecting/soldering the cables correctly? Has anyone done such rewiring and can point me in the right way?

II understand that I need a 1T4 cable which on one end I would have to modify to male to be able to plug into the motor female 8pin connector. Where do I get the male 8pin connector? I don't want to cut off my old VLCD5 display. Then I would like to connect the brake sensors which came with the VLCD5/TSDZ2 combo to the new 850c/860c display. Also here i would like to avoid cutting off the original cables of the sensors. Is there a way to connect these square connectors via an adapter (?) to the round ones of the bafang 1T4 cable?

I have currently emmebrusa's Open source latest firmware flashed for VLCD5 (TSDZ2-v20.1C.2-update-2) . There i have seen an option for 850C. Can someone explain how this software is going to work with 850c as this display has more PAS levels as the VLCD5 with only 4 PAS?

 

[beemac]

thumbnail3 hosted at ImgBB

Image thumbnail3 hosted in ImgBB

ibb.co

I didnt see any screws to open the motor unit to see the burnt windings. If i want to return it i dont want to damage it.

Yea as pxl666 said you need to open the motor up to see if it's cooked. The screw heads to open it up are on the back side in this photo, think there is 5 or 6 in total - you can see the threads of two of them on the top outside of the motor itself.

 

[Blacklite]

Hello, I would like to connect my TSDZ2 to a 850c or 860c display. Unfortunately I couldn't find any information on the internet regarding the rewiring of all the needed cables, brake sensors, throttle cable etc so that I can connect the motor to the 850c display. Currently I have a VLCD5 display (connected via the 8pin connector to the motor) and would like to replace it by 850c/860c. Do you have any information or links that can help me with connecting/soldering the cables correctly? Has anyone done such rewiring and can point me in the right way?

II understand that I need a 1T4 cable which on one end I would have to modify to male to be able to plug into the motor female 8pin connector. Where do I get the male 8pin connector? I don't want to cut off my old VLCD5 display. Then I would like to connect the brake sensors which came with the VLCD5/TSDZ2 combo to the new 850c/860c display. Also here i would like to avoid cutting off the original cables of the sensors. Is there a way to connect these square connectors via an adapter (?) to the round ones of the bafang 1T4 cable?

I have currently emmebrusa's Open source latest firmware flashed for VLCD5 (TSDZ2-v20.1C.2-update-2) . There i have seen an option for 850C. Can someone explain how this software is going to work with 850c as this display has more PAS levels as the VLCD5 with only 4 PAS?

You replace the firmware on both the display and the motor, and then can adjust exactly how many levels you want. There is a huge amount of customisation possible with the open source firmware for 850C display.

 

[Elinx]

....

I have currently emmebrusa's Open source latest firmware flashed for VLCD5 (TSDZ2-v20.1C.2-update-2) . There i have seen an option for 850C. Can someone explain how this software is going to work with 850c as this display has more PAS levels as the VLCD5 with only 4 PAS?

The java configurator 850C option does only work for 850C that special is made for Tsdz2, so you have no problem with connections. This 850C can't be flashed.

If you have a 850C or 860C made for Bafang you must flash the display and controller with another version of mbrusa OSF.
In that case you should change the connectors too.

 

[mattam]

The java configurator 850C option does only work for 850C that special is made for Tsdz2, so you have no problem with connections. This 850C can't be flashed.

If you have a 850C or 860C made for Bafang you must flash the display and controller with another version of mbrusa OSF.
In that case you should change the connectors too.

Thank you so much! Which emmebrusa version would be correct? Can you provide a link? I found only a version for 860c, not for 850c: GitHub - emmebrusa/TSDZ2-Smart-EBike-860C: TSDZ2 Open Source Firmware adapted to 860C display

Is 860c recommended over 850c? What's the main difference? Personally I don't like the switch on the 860c, it looks clumsy. I much prefer the one for 850c, which is cool looking. But I've heard that 860c has improved the readability in the sun. Is this true? Or is the difference not so big?

 

[raylo32]

860 is much more readable in sunlight... and I believe there may also be some menu and feature differences, but I don't recall exactly. I had an 850 but switched a couple years ago because the 850 was simply too dim.

Thank you so much! Which emmebrusa version would be correct? Can you provide a link? I found only a version for 860c, not for 850c: GitHub - emmebrusa/TSDZ2-Smart-EBike-860C: TSDZ2 Open Source Firmware adapted to 860C display

Is 860c recommended over 850c? What's the main difference? Personally I don't like the switch on the 860c, it looks clumsy. I much prefer the one for 850c, which is cool looking. But I've heard that 860c has improved the readability in the sun. Is this true? Or is the difference not so big?

 

[shaper]

My tsdz2 is stuck in eco assist mode. It has been sitting for a while as I was waiting on a new blue gear and some bearings, finally got it all back together and now I can’t change the assist level at all. I’m running the osf on vlcd5 and I tried flashing the motor again but no luck. Has anyone had this issue before or knows what the issue could be? I’m thinking I may have damaged some wiring in the controller when putting the motor back together.