Norco six: comfy commuter build ;)

Joined
Aug 9, 2010
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Here is my ebike!

Norco six dual suspension
Avid bb7 rear disc brake with 180mm rotor.
2807 9c rear motor
20A controller infineon controller
Changed the shifter to grip shifter on the left handle.
48v, 15Ah ping battery mounted in pelican case.
Hand made custom rack for case
4L bottle, cut in two to protect controller and excess wire from dirt
slime in tire to help in case of flats

First ride attained 43km/h without assist.
Since limited speed to 32km/h, street legal bike.

Very fun to ride, however, the weight in the handlebar for steering is noticeable.
 

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kafka-cloud said:
...the weight in the handlebar for steering is noticeable.
Use a 4in stem, the handlebar must be over the battery, the axis line 'front axle -- handlebar mount' has to pass through the battery box. Now you travel the box when steering, you will pivot only with your handlebar over it.
 
MadRhino,

Thanks for the advice in building this bike. I am not sure I will change the stem for now since, it could affect if my battery rack fit. There is a heavyness but I will tolerate for a couple of months. When I will have saved more money from transportation, I'll look at upgrades.

Metallover, the bigger disc helps fro clearance with the motor and I plan in the future to put a hydro fron brake...

My ping battery has somewhat melted plastic over the BMS and overheanted the mosfet. I am waiting for a BMS replacement, thus I am limiting my power consumption not to overheat and added a big heatsink on the mosfet to be able to still continue using this bike.

I just love an ebike, today when testing I was going faster the spandex racing bike croud, it was quite a laugh to see their face.
 
kafka-cloud said:
Here is my ebike!

Norco six dual suspension
Avid bb7 rear disc brake with 180mm rotor.
2807 9c rear motor
20A controller infineon controller
Changed the shifter to grip shifter on the left handle.
48v, 15Ah ping battery mounted in pelican case.
Hand made custom rack for case
4L bottle, cut in two to protect controller and excess wire from dirt
slime in tire to help in case of flats

First ride attained 43km/h without assist.
Since limited speed to 32km/h, street legal bike.

Very fun to ride, however, the weight in the handlebar for steering is noticeable.

looks great, if not a tad front-heavy. ever thought of going with packs mounted allong the lenght of the frame, between the handlebars and the pedals? whould make for a much leaner/more subtle look. in hindsite i probably shoud have bought a frame like this rather than my aline...
 
SnOwchyld,

I dont think there are that many differences between the a-line and the norco six frame. Both look bombproof. It may be simpler to make your build if your rear spacing is 135mm. I had a lot of work to make this fit properly in 150mm wide.

As for the battery, I take it off to go in my office... I wanted one case for ease to carry it in my office.
 
Update,

1000 miles later :0. A big smile on my face and being addicted to riding to work.

I had some initial problem with my Ping battery but resolved with Li Ping over some email exchange new BMS and finally decided to install IRB4110. No heating evermore ;) and battery BMS lits up like a christmas tree.

Changed some component on my bike.. new headset cane creek tank jump, new stem white truvativ husselfelt.

Will be upgrading spokes on rear wheel. 6 broken spoke from the original 9C kit. Also, I have some huge grip tire.

Found a real cool green tire, halo twin rail which should be better for commuting then my current knobby.

At 20 AMp, i can go around 45km/h on the flat

Cheers
 
Did some more upgrade this week after a nice 50% off at the LBS.

Upgraded the front brake to 203mm rotor and avid juicy 3 hydro brake. Also got some super thick DH tube and michelin city slick tire. They are also inflatable to 87 psi, which will help a lot with rolling resistance. And much easier to remove then my 2.5'' kenda blue groove. At least if I get a flat i'll be able to change the tube. But the noise is already much less because of the front tire. Also, because of uneven wear on tire, I felt that they were less reliable when turning. Stopping power has also greatly improved.

Still waiting on my spokes to arrange the rear wheel. New brake pads, new rotor (last one has a slight curve in it) and new spokes to replace damaged ones. Will eventually replace all the spokes. Also, I got a second torque arm i will be modifying and adding to my rear wheel. (2 torque arms, one on each side ;)


I will be drilling my frame soon to pass the cable inside for a final clean design. I have had a lot of fun replacing some component on my bike. Feels like I know a lot more about bike and repair then I used to.

Cheers, will post some more photos once completed ;)
 
kafka-cloud said:
...

I will be drilling my frame soon to pass the cable inside for a final clean design. I have had a lot of fun replacing some component on my bike. Feels like I know a lot more about bike and repair then I used to.

Cheers, will post some more photos once completed ;)

id be very very carefull drilling a alloy frame. given the fact that its a DH frame and if you only use it for commuting it might be ok, but the problem is any hole will act as a focal point for any stress the frame comes under, and being alloy it WILL eventually fail. And a smaller hole may actually make it worse, as its concentrating the same stress over a smaller area. If your easy on the frame it will probably take years, but still, drilling holes will likely shorten its life by a notable amount. Ive got the same 'hornets nest' of wires problem, but im thinking of fabricating a conduit that attaches to the frame...

Someone with more frame building/modding experience will probably correct me, but at the very least I'd be asking a welder to beef up the area around any holes. I just wouldnt feel safe riding on a alloy frame with holes in it (that weren't there from the factory) :mrgreen:
 
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