Nucular Electronics owner's thread (setup infos, FW updates, links etc.)

Unless I thought I might need to in future upgrade to a higher-kW motor

having a controller that does not quite "max it out" seems like a sensible idea.

That way the battery could be as large and powerful as I like without changing the heat-based limiting factors?
 
madin88 said:
Blacksword said:
Bought a Nucular 12f and plan to use it with a QS205 5T shooting for 10kw, is this going to be to much for this controller?
Click to expand...
The 12F could be a bit weak for this motor and overheat if it doesn't get enough fresh air.
Wheelsize and battery voltage also matters if you might be happy with it or not.
Click to expand...
FWIW, I run 11kW through a 12F and MXUS3k w/hubsinks and statorade (@250A) in 26" wheels, and the motor is the weak link (heat). Battery pack (20S5P VTC6 @150A) is the 2nd weak link. 12F controller is rock solid and barely warms up.

If you're after pure performance, go LiPo and smaller wheels (if you can deal with smaller wheels). If you want slightly less power density but with better battery longevity, I'd suggest ~20S10P VTC6. 20S5P works ok, but I only do it as a compromise for lower weight. I'd prefer more P, or maybe more P using VTC5A.

Either way, 12F @10kW is fine.
 
I am trying to understand the settings for PAS when using a torque sensor. My plan is to work out some basic values one can start with to get a smooth assistance (as usual ebikes feel) from 100W to something like 2000W max.

As Torque sensor the Sempu 4.3 is known to work but also Erider can be used.
I made a chart how the sensors need to be wired to the controller and it's specific values.

Sempu T4.3

It is available as 2-wire type with 48 poles, or 2-wire type with 24 poles sin/cos
Pressure scale: 67Nm/V

Erider T13

It is only available as 1-wire type with 36 poles
Pressure scale: 69Nm/V


Nucular / Sempu 4.3 / Erider T13

black GND / black / black
red +12V / red (10-60V) / red (8-12V)
yellow P1 / yellow / green
orange P2 / green / -----
torque Th / white / white

Note: when using the Erider Sensor, P2 will be not used (as it is a 1-wire type), and green wire needs to be swapped and connected to P1.

The programming allows to set up following settings (with example beside):

PAS min freq 10RPM
PAS max freq 50RPM
Human watt min 50W
Human watt max 300W
Torque min 10Nm
Torque max 100Nm
PAS min out 0%
PAS max out 20%

...i am a bit confused with the Human watt setting, since Torque and Nm = power and so it might get in conflict?

Now i am trying to understand what it means, if i have setup S1 mode to 2000W / 100A phase (torque throttle), what would be the output power of the controller with above example values when doing the following on my bike:

pedalling at 30RPM with 50Nm?
pedalling at 60RPM with 50Nm?
set PAS min out to 5% and pedalling at 30RPM with 0Nm (freely)?
 
Anyone have a link to some thorough documentation on the 12f, arrived today but I am a newb and need to know how to make up the connections going into the back of the display and I seem to have two extra power wires coming out of my controller unit, no idea what these are for, they aren't covered in the nucular website docs.

I could really use some thorough setup videos in English, anything out there that goes end to end?
 
serious_sam said:
madin88 said:
Blacksword said:
Bought a Nucular 12f and plan to use it with a QS205 5T shooting for 10kw, is this going to be to much for this controller?
Click to expand...
The 12F could be a bit weak for this motor and overheat if it doesn't get enough fresh air.
Wheelsize and battery voltage also matters if you might be happy with it or not.
Click to expand...
FWIW, I run 11kW through a 12F and MXUS3k w/hubsinks and statorade (@250A) in 26" wheels, and the motor is the weak link (heat). Battery pack (20S5P VTC6 @150A) is the 2nd weak link. 12F controller is rock solid and barely warms up.

If you're after pure performance, go LiPo and smaller wheels (if you can deal with smaller wheels). If you want slightly less power density but with better battery longevity, I'd suggest ~20S10P VTC6. 20S5P works ok, but I only do it as a compromise for lower weight. I'd prefer more P, or maybe more P using VTC5A.

Either way, 12F @10kW is fine.
Click to expand...

Thank you that is awesome, what do you suggest for lipo setup?
 
Blacksword said:
Thank you that is awesome, what do you suggest for lipo setup?
Click to expand...
I haven't looked at LiPo recently since I got the VTC6.

Wouldn't be a bad idea to start a new thread about what the best LiPo are at the moment.
 
Blacksword said:
Anyone have a link to some thorough documentation on the 12f, arrived today but I am a newb and need to know how to make up the connections going into the back of the display and I seem to have two extra power wires coming out of my controller unit, no idea what these are for, they aren't covered in the nucular website docs.

I could really use some thorough setup videos in English, anything out there that goes end to end?
Click to expand...

Are the 2 extra power wires smaller than the other power wires? If so they are probably for the Charging feature. There have been a few people on the Nuc Telegram chat that have received controllers like that and unknowingly hooked them to a battery thinking they are power wires.
 
DanGT86 said:
Blacksword said:
Anyone have a link to some thorough documentation on the 12f, arrived today but I am a newb and need to know how to make up the connections going into the back of the display and I seem to have two extra power wires coming out of my controller unit, no idea what these are for, they aren't covered in the nucular website docs.

I could really use some thorough setup videos in English, anything out there that goes end to end?
Click to expand...

Are the 2 extra power wires smaller than the other power wires? If so they are probably for the Charging feature. There have been a few people on the Nuc Telegram chat that have received controllers like that and unknowingly hooked them to a battery thinking they are power wires.
Click to expand...

First two are red and black 10awg with anderson connectors

Second pair are 12awg with an xt90 connector.
 
[/quote]
I haven't looked at LiPo recently since I got the VTC6

DITTO ..... I have a 5 y/o VTC6 thats been in 2 bikes , just checked, its within .01 v
Its going in its 3rd bike soon + a 24f btw
 
VTC6 is still right up there for reliability / longevity in its category, focus more on power, C-rate rather than energy density.

LG HG2 is another very good one.

Avoid 30Q.
 
These are the masters of the LiPo universe

Battery Load Test Comparisons

https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?1767093-Battery-Load-Test-Comparisons

Start at the updated front post, read a few ages in for methodology details

Then skip to the end and work your way backwards. Liperior is the best **value** vendor these days, I think up to 20-25C continuous.

Note the main guys are **really** focused on maximum crazy C-rate usage, like 3-4min and done

but if brand can perform that way I bet they give good lifespan at "only" 5-10C peaks
 
finally got my confirmation for the 24f controller im excited.

I was planning on making a pack with Molicel P42a cells. im hoping a 20s-10p or 12p will fit in my bomber frame need to order the cells to see what i can fit in there.
 
I have a pair of 6F working in a dual setup. Added hall sensors and replaced the generic middle of the run controllers and it’s a whole new thing. But it’s my first controller. I am new at this and wonder.

What makes the Nucular controllers so good. Hadrware ? Software ?

And how is a 12F better to say a Kelly 7212s for example?
 
litespeed said:
My set up is a QS205 V3 3.5T motor, 20s15p 30Q pack with a 24F controller. Did auto set up, saved settings and road around for about an hour 2 days ago. Worked excellent. Disconnected the battery when I was finished. Plugged the battery in and closed the cover. Twisted the throttle and the bike shuttered & wheel turned backwards? WTF? Tried to auto tune and motor was fine, did angle correction and motor just stayed still and couldn’t be turned. Timed out! Kinda clueless as I’ve never had this happen before with any controller. Figured it might be halls even though the second set has never been used......I tried to run sensorless. Never tried sensorless on any controller and it’s sluggish. If feels like it’s never in sync. When I turned to the halls screen and rotated the wheel it went in order from 6,5,4,3,2,1,6,5,4,3,2....... any ideas?

Also the left button decided to stick and wouldn’t work. Apparently this one has a bad mold on the switch plate. I was able to bend a bit to get it to work but most probably will need to be replaced. The small lip at the top slips off the switch.
Click to expand...
My left display button went out today, just like yours. The bezel button rotates upwards and slips off the button on the board and hangs there. You have to take the whole thing apart to get it released. I find that if you use only your left hand to push the left buttons and right on right, that button doesn't get pushed upwards as much and doesnt hang. Peck the thing straight down, dont give it any swiping motion.
 
Hi Team

I recently upgraded to the lastest firmware and i notice there is alot of extra features, Now 2 mins before i updated my Switch brake was working fine montrary switch connected to the screen. Now after upgrade it no longer works is there a setting i have missed

Any ideas as i dont think it stopped working as bike hasnt moved and was working right before i upgraded.

Its montary button to screen so pretty simple, maybe there is a setting to trigger etc

Thanks again for your time.

Cheers
 
thoroughbred said:
litespeed said:
My set up is a QS205 V3 3.5T motor, 20s15p 30Q pack with a 24F controller. Did auto set up, saved settings and road around for about an hour 2 days ago. Worked excellent. Disconnected the battery when I was finished. Plugged the battery in and closed the cover. Twisted the throttle and the bike shuttered & wheel turned backwards? WTF? Tried to auto tune and motor was fine, did angle correction and motor just stayed still and couldn’t be turned. Timed out! Kinda clueless as I’ve never had this happen before with any controller. Figured it might be halls even though the second set has never been used......I tried to run sensorless. Never tried sensorless on any controller and it’s sluggish. If feels like it’s never in sync. When I turned to the halls screen and rotated the wheel it went in order from 6,5,4,3,2,1,6,5,4,3,2....... any ideas?

Also the left button decided to stick and wouldn’t work. Apparently this one has a bad mold on the switch plate. I was able to bend a bit to get it to work but most probably will need to be replaced. The small lip at the top slips off the switch.
Click to expand...
My left display button went out today, just like yours. The bezel button rotates upwards and slips off the button on the board and hangs there. You have to take the whole thing apart to get it released. I find that if you use only your left hand to push the left buttons and right on right, that button doesn't get pushed upwards as much and doesnt hang. Peck the thing straight down, dont give it any swiping motion.
Click to expand...

I was able to fix mine since no one sent me a new part. I do the same thing.....only push straight down.

Thanks,

Tom
 
cheeko said:
Hi Team

I recently upgraded to the lastest firmware and i notice there is alot of extra features, Now 2 mins before i updated my Switch brake was working fine montrary switch connected to the screen. Now after upgrade it no longer works is there a setting i have missed

Any ideas as i dont think it stopped working as bike hasnt moved and was working right before i upgraded.

Its montary button to screen so pretty simple, maybe there is a setting to trigger etc

Thanks again for your time.

Cheers
Click to expand...

Look at this. I show how to program the buttons on the screen but you can also program the inputs last screen yes on the controller in the same way.
https://youtu.be/7KvbdhWueUQ
 
PITMIX said:
cheeko said:
Hi Team

I recently upgraded to the lastest firmware and i notice there is alot of extra features, Now 2 mins before i updated my Switch brake was working fine montrary switch connected to the screen. Now after upgrade it no longer works is there a setting i have missed

Any ideas as i dont think it stopped working as bike hasnt moved and was working right before i upgraded.

Its montary button to screen so pretty simple, maybe there is a setting to trigger etc

Thanks again for your time.

Cheers
Click to expand...

Look at this. I show how to program the buttons on the screen but you can also program the inputs last screen yes on the controller in the same way.
https://youtu.be/7KvbdhWueUQ
Click to expand...

Yes i think ill try it i do have brake on the IO8 ill see what i can do, weird as i didnt have to do that before
 
I encountered the same problem for reverse gear, it is because there were additional programmable Can inputs,
for the uLight suddenlyy it disturbed the programming through the I / O reorganization.
 
Ok, I admit defeat:( I have a 24F but can't figure out how to turn on a little regen when I'm off the throttle. I want a little bit of 'engine' braking like a gas bike so I can give my poor brakes some rest. I thought I read somewhere it could be done but I can't find it in a search now. I've fiddled w/ a lot of settings but can't figure it out.
 
Hello I have activate English translate : https://youtu.be/Zw4M3GZCF7I
 
madin88 said:
Erider T13

It is only available as 1-wire type with 36 poles
Pressure scale: 69Nm/V

Nucular / Sempu 4.3 / Erider T13

black GND / black / black
red +12V / red (10-60V) / red (8-12V)
yellow P1 / yellow / green
orange P2 / green / -----
torque Th / white / white

Note: when using the Erider Sensor, P2 will be not used (as it is a 1-wire type), and green wire needs to be swapped and connected to P1.
Click to expand...

Thanks for this info Madin, I was totally stumped how to get the Erider to works and this works with my 12f :bigthumb:
 
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