Nuvinci developer kits for cheap

use manual shifter but wind cables via servo or the nv dev motor

use sprocket on shift rod and chain or belt to motor elsewhere

ues old train style rod-wheel-lnikage to motor elsehwere


doubt speedo-type cable would work but could try it
 
since they put that 48V system maximum everywhere including the application form to purchase one. i'm pretty sure that they are very serious about it.

it is specified as a 48V nominal system. so using SLA a 48V nominal would be 55 or 56V hot off the charger. i would not be connecting mine to anything more than 60V and expect it to survive for long.

but the only way to tell the voltage limit for sure is when someone posts something about how he only connected it to blah-blah volts and the cheap thing failed on him at only blah times the rated voltage will we know for sure what the limit is.

rick
 
wannesd said:
Yeah, my 14s is 58.8 hot of the charger... might give it a go.
Click to expand...

I would think that should be okay. that is about the same as my 16S LiFePO4 pack. and that has worked with mine without failure.

rick
 
Well darn. I'd love to get another one of those things, but I don't think now is the right time for me. :?

As far as the flexible shaft, Dremel sells an extension. I think I even have one lying around here I could look at and see if I can see a way to make it work. The problem I see with using it is that it is probably going to stick out further than the stock unit. While the unit is flexible, it still needs a nice arc in it's curve, especially at the ends.

Here is a link:

http://www.amazon.com/Dremel-225-01-Flex-Shaft-Attachment/dp/B0000302Y8
 
yeah, what we'd need is something with 90° at the end.Like a little wormwheel or something like that.
Only thing wrong with that, is that you'd need to program the shifter to turn even more (way more) from end to end, making it even slower.
 
How about a fitting which goes over the shaft, with 2 cables? kinda like the manual shifter, but connected to the shift motor? Would mean no extra turns, and no twist up.

Would there be anything out there which can be adapted to this?
 
wannesd said:
How about a fitting which goes over the shaft, with 2 cables? kinda like the manual shifter, but connected to the shift motor? Would mean no extra turns, and no twist up.

Would there be anything out there which can be adapted to this?
Click to expand...

i would think that it would not be too difficult to adapt the regular manual shifter. an adapter could be made to attach the grip shifter to the motor. and a second one to adapt the square drive on the manual shift banjo to the spline end on the auto shift rod. this could be as simple as mixing a filler of talcum powder and epoxy and glueing the splines into the pulley. then you just need to cut a custom length pair of cables.

rick
 
Very interesting that NuVinci put the developers kits on sale again, and still at the low price. When mine developed a noise last year the west coast rep had to "authorize" my purchase of another "spare" one.

As far as a manual shift adaptation, remember that the developer kit is four full turns from low ratio to high ratio. Also, FallBrook did have an accessory that allowed for electronic "manual" shift ratio selection.

For anyone considering a developer kit, I would say jump on it. My trike is just a joy to ride, always in just the right gear ratio. Now when I ride something that requires shifting it's a real PITA. I do agree that for a 2 wheel bicycle there are lots of extra parts to pack, the actuator being a big piece.
 
I have an electric shift n171 pre developer kit, with a different shift rod then the 2 posted , and the controller built into the scooter controller. I put a manual shift rod and shifter in it and it is usable. If anyone has an extra shift rod and shifter either manual or electric I'm interested, been trying for months to get one from Nuvinci. When I talked to Rob he made it sound like there was about 400 developer kits available. I think they had someone trying to buy a lot of them for a windmill project, then it didn't happen.
 

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This link is to the developer kit user manual:
http://www.nuvinci.com/docs/DevKit_Manual.pdf
Other shifting methods are discussed on pages 33 through 35. My printed manual is dated July 31, 2009 and shows the optional display but the on-line link above goes to a manual printed February 9, 2009 and it does not show the display unit. Would have to contact FallBrook, but I think it was about $200.

Alternate shifting was discussed in this thread on page 22.
 
Perfect, with the 2 mode switch I could switch between onroad (speed) and offroad (torque)!

Now to relocate the motor... Crap that the dev kit comes in 36H only, my rims are 32H. Oh well, gives me more time to build fully sort it all out...
 
wannesd said:
with the 2 mode switch I could switch between onroad (speed) and offroad (torque)!
Click to expand...

Right. I thought I would use the 2 mode switch, but on my trike I matched the motor speed to my desired cadence and found other settings didn't help any. If you have multiple gear selection for your pedals that isn't tied directly to your motor, such as a front deraileur, it might be handy.

As far as the number of spoke holes, you have to build a new wheel anyway, so might as well use a new rim at the same time and keep your old wheel ready to use if you decide to go back to the original.

Good luck with your build. Keep us updated with how it works out for you.
 
For Offroad, I'd like to stay in low gear very long, for the added torque, and not shifting all the time. So it would be useful to set up a second shift map for this, I think?
 
I'm hoping to use the Nuvinci in a robotics applications. Is it possible to lock the freehub and run the nuvinci in forward and reverse?
 
mman1506 said:
I'm hoping to use the Nuvinci in a robotics applications. Is it possible to lock the freehub and run the nuvinci in forward and reverse?
Click to expand...

I doubt that it's straightforward to do that, but take heed that there is a cam inside the NuVinci that increases compression on the rollers as torque increases, to prevent roller slippage, That part would not work in reverse in any case.

Hypothetically, the mechanism used in the N171 and N360 is fully reversible, but in this implementation there may be no good way to hack a reverse function.
 
if you had access to a machine shop couldnt you make a new rod?

Rassy said:
My conclusion is that these shift rods are not interchangeable. The worm threads are cut on a different angle and the inner end points are completely different. Even if you could force the wrong one in you would just ruin the threads, probably both the shift rod and the internal ones in the hub.

Sorry my pictures are so poor. The upper rod is for the manual shift and the lower rod is for the auto shift.
Click to expand...
 
anyone tested Nuvinci Harmony yet? i wonder how this compares to the Developers kit in terms of strenght..

thinking to run astro 3220 4t wye full belt on it....
 
I pondered how to adapt the splined hole shifter to square input shaft when I realized this part turns slow with little torque. I machined an aluminum adapter with a round hole and 2 set screws gripping the square shifter rod end. This solves the "how do you make a square hole" problem. The other end was turned for an interference fit into the splined hole. The hard spline material acts like a broach when pressed over the soft aluminum adapter. A 6-32 screw is center tapped into the adapter and holds the it in splined hole. This arrangement can be disassembled and no part is permanently altered.
 
Hi,

Does anyone have a copy of the software which came with the dev kit?
I need to update my config tables, but I can't find the software to upload.
(I would need the upload tool, and the two drivers.)

Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Ash.
 
wow, they took down the link from their website. not only that but, their support forum is also down. all that's left is a splash screen telling you to email support.

I should have a copy of it here somewhere. i'll post back as soon as i find it. first i have to find a flash light. i know it's here somewhere.

rick
 
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