One dead lipo cell. Is my pack ruined? :(

mudd.. really ??? that's a first! was it 1 cell holding it all back? Or were you drawing 100 amps out of them and finally got them to sag? ;)

The 'cliff' should be measured with no load on the battery ( "resting voltage" ), just FYI.
 
neptronix said:
mudd.. really ??? that's a first! was it 1 cell holding it all back? Or were you drawing 100 amps out of them and finally got them to sag? ;)

The 'cliff' should be measured with no load on the battery ( "resting voltage" ), just FYI.

I was talking about under load I did not know... "The 'cliff' should be measured with no load on the battery ( "resting voltage" )" :oops:
 
mud2005 said:
damn cliff! I have 6S 6AH nano tech packs and they hit the cliff at only 5AH. doesn't bother me a bit though I will still use and love lipo batts until something better comes along. grizz, give it a rest 2 each his own :mrgreen:

Hey yeah I'll give it a rest, don't want to spoil everyone's fun, watching you guys, do I !?

Want to watch a real Bike?

KillaCycle powered by A123
 
DA-YUM!! I done got it all backwards din ... I started with the angelic perfect A123's and now use LiPo funny I haven't had any problems with my Nano-Techs, I wish I could say that of Dewalt A123's with the wonderful Battery Murdering Systems that I have now had to replaces fuses on, separately charge cells to recover low packs that the "perfect" Dewalt chargers will no longer charge. :roll:

I guess I'll never learn .... better to have a BMS attached and tinker on perfect A123's that use my head and not over-discharge LiPo!

Thanks for setting me straight Grizzly! :lol: :lol: :lol:


Seriously, everyone has their own preferred chemistry, but there is no silver bullet, everything has advantages & disadvantages, but thinking "I have a BMS so my batteries are perfect!" is just an illusion, all batteries can and will fail on some level at some point in time, I'll be thinking of you Grizz when my Nano Techs are at around 1000+ charge cycles giving me 100% still, and a new chemistry improvement comes out, and I'm able to go faster with less weight while you still have your trusty, heavy, lower C A123's. :wink:

I let too many videos of LiPo fires scare me away from them at first, but now that I understand them, hell ya, I like having batteries that never get warm, weigh 20-30% less, aren't even stressed by my use (I don't even draw 50% of the "C" rate), have no more than 1V of sag even under heavy load, and I never have a possibility of a BMS having a malfunction and draining them on me.

Each to their own! 8)
 
I have a similar pack, 1 dead cell. I Think I'm going to solder a jumper across thecell, cut t he tabs off and just leave it in the middle and make it 5s. I did that with my Lifepo4 pack when a cell went bad. You'll get less speed, but save money. I guess that choice is up to you.

as for chemistries? each has it's user:

Poor and or reckless: Lipo, cuz your gonna break it anyway, and it's cheap and powerfull. Cycle life doesn't matter.
Rich and performance: a123- why not? it's got the power and it won't catch fire.
Commuter:ping pack. low c rate, cycles and distance are most important.
I'm lucky to get 100 cycles before I short/leave on over the weekend/screw up something else.
 
Good summary of the user type and best battery for each. I'm two types, depending on the bike and the use. Sadly, I'll never be the rich type. :lol:

Nobody really answered one question, what now when new packs arrive. One option is a good monitoring sytem/bms, such as LFP suggests. Personally, I just ride a pack large enough to keep my dod reasonable for the distances or time duration I want.

Get your new packs, ride them short distances, recharge. Do this several times, and use the charger or a cellog to tell you if they are staying balanced. Look at whether they hold a charge over night the same. Next morning, are they all about 4.18? or is one cell 4.10 while the rest are at 4.18? Once you know you have 4 packs that have cells in em that stay balanced pretty much, all you need is a total pack volt monitor to stay ok. So figure out what 3.70 x your cell number is, and plan on stopping by then. If you must, take them to 3.5v. In a matched pack, you'll not take any single cell much lower than the others. I have written on my 12s pack, never below 44.5v. But I could go as low as 42v, and likely have all the cells pretty close to 3.5v.

Sorry to put it this way, but you stupidly went out with packs you knew nothing about, and rode one cell to death by riding too far.

Re the lipo vs lifepo4. Tons of people have done the same thing to lifepo4. A runt cell is a runt cell in any kind of chemistry. You gotta make sure you don't have one in any new battery before you go on long rides. Period.
 
I have not found several cycles to be needed... that process is usefull when using a new un-used cheap pre-built pack with crappy BMS that can only deal with small imballances at a time vis puny little resistors.... using a big boy RC charger takes care of this process much faster..

i usually

- test cell voltages on arrival, if they are all equal or within 0.0x volts it's good
- Fully charged all cells to 4.20v
- Capacity test on a cycle analyst or wattmeter of your choice so you know what capacity the lowest cell has

Then and only then you know what you have.
 
True, a real capacity test would only take one cycle, and can be done with the charger. I just spend an afternoon taking a few short rides, and look at voltages. You know me, maybe the harder way, but simple to the simple minded.

And I'm riding, not watching packs on a charger. Just NO long ride!
 
aaronski said:
I have a similar pack, 1 dead cell. I Think I'm going to solder a jumper across thecell, cut t he tabs off and just leave it in the middle and make it 5s. I did that with my Lifepo4 pack when a cell went bad. You'll get less speed, but save money. I guess that choice is up to you.

as for chemistries? each has it's user:

Poor and or reckless: Lipo, cuz your gonna break it anyway, and it's cheap and powerfull. Cycle life doesn't matter.
Rich and performance: a123- why not? it's got the power and it won't catch fire.
Commuter:ping pack. low c rate, cycles and distance are most important.
I'm lucky to get 100 cycles before I short/leave on over the weekend/screw up something else.

I've got to say this is a misconception. :)

I was a hard sell too when I first looked at LiPo, but just look at all the testing, experience and expert knowledge that someone like LFP, and many others here!

What you're saying IS generally true of cheap LiPo, but if you buy quality packs, AND treat them well, not only will you get as much life as you want, you won't have the same voltage sag that is common of the cheap stuff. (1000's of charge cycles are very possible if you are kind to them)

IMHO, you get what you pay for, and buying cheap LiPo is like any cheap throw-away product, if you have the attitude "it's gonna break anyway" and expect to replace things often, then you're getting what you paid for.

I have heard many a story of HK LiPo packs that are DOA or have a weak cell, or don't perform well in the really cheap stuff, I have yet to hear the same thing about any of the higher quality packs to include the Turnigy Nano Techs (there are other high-end brands, but these are the latest advancement in technology).

LiPo can be dangerous, but only if you don't respect it, it's far less dangerous than gasoline any day! The worst that has ever happened with mine has been when I wasn't paying attention and let some contacts short, and I have had to replace connectors, but never have I seen a big problem.

I have noticed that if I am not using them hard enough, they tend to get out of balance easier, and when I wring them out a bit, not abuse them but take them beyond say, 70% DOD, they stay balanced much more. 8)

I have lots of time on my hands, and I tend to sweat the details a bit much, so I like to balance my packs down to 0.02 if I can, but if I wanted to just run them, I could easily balance charge once a week or even every two weeks, depending on how often I am riding.

All batteries will live a short life no matter what they are if you run them down to nothing too many times, and this is where LiPo has some danger involved, but it's really easy to have a controller & CA with a LVC, and even better a set of the LVC/HVC boards mentioned, they don't have any way to drain enough off the cells to ever hurt them, and will disable your throttle if you get close to a dangerous low or high voltage.

If LiPo is still sounding too much of a hassle, there is nothing at all wrong with LiFeP04, but to say they are just as powerful is just showing you haven't tried some yet. :wink:

Sure there are powerful LiFeP04 batteries out there, and IIRC there is now what, 30C Prismatic cells now from A123? I will never need much more than 20C for my commuter, but if you want to say who has the most power available, check out these 65 c -130C Nano Tech! (with a 5AH pack, that's 325 amps constant, 650 amps burst! :shock: ) :twisted:

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/...y_nano_tech_5000mah_6S_65_130C_Lipo_Pack.html

for about $500 shipped you have a 12s 10Ah pack (about 46V) and add another $100 for a decent power supply & charger, and you have something WAY more powerful than anything LiFeP04 can even offer!

When was the last time you saw a LiFeP04 pack do this!

(and IIRC, this was last years "weaker" 45 - 90c Nano-Techs! :mrgreen: )

[youtube]WkKRqaNPIBE[/youtube]

And don't get me wrong, LiFeP04 is great, you can generally plug it in and go do something else, but if you short a high out-put battery, no matter the chemistry your fingers are no less Kentucky Fried!! :lol:

If you say "I just want to plug it in the wall" and don't want to build a pack?

Here is the SAME chemistry (I'm sure it's not the exact same formula, but it's the same family of the Lithium Cobalt as the Nano Tech LiPo) and it's plug and play! (36V 12 AH) It even has a *gasp!* BMS too!! :p

http://www.ampedbikes.com/tubebattery.html

tubefull.jpg


biketube.jpg


I haven't had the opportunity to play with one of these packs yet, but I should soon in the next couple of months, and I would not be surprised at all if this battery puts out very similar performance to a typical 48V Ping or similarly priced LiFeP04 pack. Even at the lower voltage, it's going to have much higher C rate, and it's a plug it in and forget about it kind of slow charging system with the BMS built into the battery (not what I would use, but it requires none of the extra work building a pack from a HK LiPo packs).

I mean, if all LiPo is equal, why is a major manufacturer selling "dangerous LiPo" to "Joe Average" consumer who just wants a simple and easy to use E-Bike and not learn all about it?

Just my $0.02 :p
 
Well, it was a good description of how I treat my lipo anyway. :lol: Definitely not trying to milk max cost per mile out of my fun budget. Only the fun per dollar matters. Fun enough, is worth many dollars. I wouldn't say I'm trying to kill my lipo, just that I'm not sitting around fretting about em.
 
Thanks everyone for you help! I took off the heat shrink measured the voltage levels from the tabs and they are both indeed at 0 volts. I tried charging only the dead cells and they just would not take the charge. SO I removed the dead cells and soldered a bridge wire where the cells used to be. Now instead of a 6s 10Ah pack I have a 5s 10Ah pack. That will be combined with my other good 6s 10Ah pack for a total of 11s. 11 out of 12 cells should be good enough for my needs. I don't have the money right now to spend on two new 6s 5Ah packs. But I will replace them in the future. As for now I'll make sure I CLOSELY monitor all the cells during a ride and I'll be double sure the keeps the rides short until the packs have been cycled a few times. Then I'll be more comfortable draining them almost to their low voltage cut off. I will also keep the battery cell monitors on all the cells every single time I ride. I already have one six cell monitor mounted on my handle bars and I'll add another one. This to me seems fool proof because I will make sure they never drop too low and if they do I will put unplug the battery and pedal home. Thanks again everyone :)
 
As long as you buy LIFEPO4 you will have no worries, don't fall into the LIPO trap, enjoy your bike and don't be a slave to your battery pack!!

I have both!
LiPo might be a little more work than LiFe, But I like the LiPo by far. Less weight, less money and lot more power when needed.

i have the LiFepo for the GUESTS. You know the beginners, that don't have this as thier hobby.

I try to ride 15 / 30 miles a day. Just because I enjoy it. Not a need but a hobby.

I can give this up any time I want. Yeah Right, only NINE in the garage, all poweed and ready to ride.

Oh, I guess I got carried away.
LIPO for me. NO "Battery Murdering System" needed.

Dan
 
DesignerDan said:
Thanks everyone for you help! I took off the heat shrink measured the voltage levels from the tabs and they are both indeed at 0 volts. I tried charging only the dead cells and they just would not take the charge. SO I removed the dead cells and soldered a bridge wire where the cells used to be. Now instead of a 6s 10Ah pack I have a 5s 10Ah pack. That will be combined with my other good 6s 10Ah pack for a total of 11s. 11 out of 12 cells should be good enough for my needs. I don't have the money right now to spend on two new 6s 5Ah packs. But I will replace them in the future. As for now I'll make sure I CLOSELY monitor all the cells during a ride and I'll be double sure the keeps the rides short until the packs have been cycled a few times. Then I'll be more comfortable draining them almost to their low voltage cut off. I will also keep the battery cell monitors on all the cells every single time I ride. I already have one six cell monitor mounted on my handle bars and I'll add another one. This to me seems fool proof because I will make sure they never drop too low and if they do I will put unplug the battery and pedal home. Thanks again everyone :)

Another slave to the LIPO!!

I tried.... I failed !!!!

Enjoy your spare time monitoring them charge ( 4.16......4.17..........4.18..................4.19...............4.19...............4.19..........4.2 yeeeees...........4.21 nooooooo),

and be prepared for the fire!!!! and don't forget to make some time to enjoy your bike!!!! :lol:
 
Grizzlybear said:
DesignerDan said:
Thanks everyone for you help! I took off the heat shrink measured the voltage levels from the tabs and they are both indeed at 0 volts. I tried charging only the dead cells and they just would not take the charge. SO I removed the dead cells and soldered a bridge wire where the cells used to be. Now instead of a 6s 10Ah pack I have a 5s 10Ah pack. That will be combined with my other good 6s 10Ah pack for a total of 11s. 11 out of 12 cells should be good enough for my needs. I don't have the money right now to spend on two new 6s 5Ah packs. But I will replace them in the future. As for now I'll make sure I CLOSELY monitor all the cells during a ride and I'll be double sure the keeps the rides short until the packs have been cycled a few times. Then I'll be more comfortable draining them almost to their low voltage cut off. I will also keep the battery cell monitors on all the cells every single time I ride. I already have one six cell monitor mounted on my handle bars and I'll add another one. This to me seems fool proof because I will make sure they never drop too low and if they do I will put unplug the battery and pedal home. Thanks again everyone :)

Another slave to the LIPO!!

I tried.... I failed !!!!

Enjoy your spare time monitoring them charge ( 4.16......4.17..........4.18..................4.19...............4.19...............4.19..........4.2 yeeeees...........4.21 nooooooo),

and be prepared for the fire!!!! and don't forget to make some time to enjoy your bike!!!! :lol:

I have a balance charger lol SO I don't have to monitor the charge. And 4.21 volts wont start a fire. It's just bad for the cells and damages them. I've been in the r/c hobby for years now and I've always used lipo and have NEVER had a problem.
My boat all run on lipos and they survive this abuse:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8Ztfm-U6E_0
They have been over charged, over discharged, spent all night underwater, in crashes that exceed 80 MPH! AND STILL NEVER A PROBLEM. I mean of course they suffered some serious internal damage and no longer perform, but fire? no..........
 
dogman said:
Well, it was a good description of how I treat my lipo anyway. :lol: Definitely not trying to milk max cost per mile out of my fun budget. Only the fun per dollar matters. Fun enough, is worth many dollars. I wouldn't say I'm trying to kill my lipo, just that I'm not sitting around fretting about em.

No problem D-man, I do enough fretting about my LiPo for the rest of the free world to be covered! :roll: :lol: :lol:

(I'm working on the rest of the world next too! :mrgreen: )

Glad to hear you're getting it fixed Dan, and don't worry about us battery guys duk'n it out, no such thing as a "bad" battery chemistry, only the "best battery" for a particular person/situation.

I have a friend that has little to no cash to spend, and he is most likely going to have to do SLA for a while, and I have known of some people using curry motors even at 24V, getting years and years of use out of just two little SLA's on a brushed electro drive!

He also does triathalons, so I don't get why exactly he's carrying around the lead weights (he's able to make a pedal bike go much faster than his electric by far!) maybe on off days when he's recovering from training, either way, I'm sure you will make good use of the remaining pack, and I'm sure it's been said, but personally, even a 10AH pack is borderline, why have a small pack break a sweat when you can have a larger pack that won't, and last 2, 3 even 4+ times as long depending on how you treat them. :)
 
DesignerDan said:
Grizzlybear said:
DesignerDan said:
Thanks everyone for you help! I took off the heat shrink measured the voltage levels from the tabs and they are both indeed at 0 volts. I tried charging only the dead cells and they just would not take the charge. SO I removed the dead cells and soldered a bridge wire where the cells used to be. Now instead of a 6s 10Ah pack I have a 5s 10Ah pack. That will be combined with my other good 6s 10Ah pack for a total of 11s. 11 out of 12 cells should be good enough for my needs. I don't have the money right now to spend on two new 6s 5Ah packs. But I will replace them in the future. As for now I'll make sure I CLOSELY monitor all the cells during a ride and I'll be double sure the keeps the rides short until the packs have been cycled a few times. Then I'll be more comfortable draining them almost to their low voltage cut off. I will also keep the battery cell monitors on all the cells every single time I ride. I already have one six cell monitor mounted on my handle bars and I'll add another one. This to me seems fool proof because I will make sure they never drop too low and if they do I will put unplug the battery and pedal home. Thanks again everyone :)

Another slave to the LIPO!!

I tried.... I failed !!!!

Enjoy your spare time monitoring them charge ( 4.16......4.17..........4.18..................4.19...............4.19...............4.19..........4.2 yeeeees...........4.21 nooooooo),

and be prepared for the fire!!!! and don't forget to make some time to enjoy your bike!!!! :lol:

I have a balance charger lol SO I don't have to monitor the charge. And 4.21 volts wont start a fire. It's just bad for the cells and damages them. I've been in the r/c hobby for years now and I've always used lipo and have NEVER had a problem.
My boat all run on lipos and they survive this abuse:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8Ztfm-U6E_0
They have been over charged, over discharged, spent all night underwater, in crashes that exceed 80 MPH! AND STILL NEVER A PROBLEM. I mean of course they suffered some serious internal damage and no longer perform, but fire? no..........

Well you obviously know how to look after your LIPO! ... you don't monitor them charging, just rely on the balance charger! you don't know that over discharging is the real danger when you charge! physically damaged the packs! etc. etc. Bet you charge indoors as well, with the family in bed asleep!

Seems strange to me why you started this thread asking for advice!
 
I started the thread because this was the first time one cell dropped to zero volts while all the others were still at 3.65 volts. I was seeking advice on what caused this and how to prevent it. Lithium ion and Li-ion polymer are used in just about every piece of technology you own. Laptops, Ipods, cell phones, GPS, digital cameras.. ect... So why not e-bike? lol And Icharger is a very reliable charger. It has countless safety features. This doesn't mean it's fool proof but WHAT IS!? haha
 
DesignerDan said:
I started the thread because this was the first time one cell dropped to zero volts while all the others were still at 3.65 volts. I was seeking advice on what caused this and how to prevent it. Lithium ion and Li-ion polymer are used in just about every piece of technology you own. Laptops, Ipods, cell phones, GPS, digital cameras.. ect... So why not e-bike? lol And Icharger is a very reliable charger. It has countless safety features. This doesn't mean it's fool proof but WHAT IS!? haha


Yes and laptops, cellphones etc, catch fire too, all because FOOLS want smaller, lighter, cheaper gadgets, at the expense of safety.
 
Grizzlybear said:
DesignerDan said:
I started the thread because this was the first time one cell dropped to zero volts while all the others were still at 3.65 volts. I was seeking advice on what caused this and how to prevent it. Lithium ion and Li-ion polymer are used in just about every piece of technology you own. Laptops, Ipods, cell phones, GPS, digital cameras.. ect... So why not e-bike? lol And Icharger is a very reliable charger. It has countless safety features. This doesn't mean it's fool proof but WHAT IS!? haha


Yes and laptops, cellphones etc, catch fire too, all because FOOLS want smaller, lighter, cheaper gadgets, at the expense of safety.


Fools like:

Sony
Panasonic
Motorola
HTC
Apple
And virtually every single one of the other hundreds of electronics mfg's in the world

Along with OEM's like:
Toyota
GM
Nissan
Volvo
Saab
BMW
Hyundai

And lets not forget:
Nasa
Navy (of every country in the world)
Army (of every country in the world)
Airforce (of every country in the world)

etc etc...


If only they knew as much as you do Grizzlybear, they wouldn't have all been fooled into using anything but A123.

:p :p :p :p :p :p :p :p :p
 
DesignerDan said:
I started the thread because this was the first time one cell dropped to zero volts while all the others were still at 3.65 volts. I was seeking advice on what caused this and how to prevent it. Lithium ion and Li-ion polymer are used in just about every piece of technology you own. Laptops, Ipods, cell phones, GPS, digital cameras.. ect... So why not e-bike? lol And Icharger is a very reliable charger. It has countless safety features. This doesn't mean it's fool proof but WHAT IS!? haha


Oh NOOOOES!! :shock: :shock: :shock:

You didn't get the memo?! We are all supposed to live in grass huts, eat turnips and try not to fart too much (it's bad for the environment you know!)

Technology is EVIL!

You need to rid yourself of all that evil technology that makes the rest of the world go round!!

Lets start by throwing all the slave masters out in the street and stomp the oppressors into oblivion!!

Don't you realize if you just got rid of that EEEEVIL Lipo battery in your cell phone you could take off your tinfoil hat at night! (They send messages while you sleep through the LiPo batteries! Like buy more Laptops, Cell Phones, and EEEVIL PC's!! Only Apple proprietary LiPo batteries have been cleansed of evil consumer propaganda ... how do you think Saint Steve (Jobs) really died?!!?! Someone switched the battery in his Iphone with a unsanctioned (unclean) LiPo battery!! :shock: :shock: :shock: )
 
LI-ghtcycle said:
DesignerDan said:
I started the thread because this was the first time one cell dropped to zero volts while all the others were still at 3.65 volts. I was seeking advice on what caused this and how to prevent it. Lithium ion and Li-ion polymer are used in just about every piece of technology you own. Laptops, Ipods, cell phones, GPS, digital cameras.. ect... So why not e-bike? lol And Icharger is a very reliable charger. It has countless safety features. This doesn't mean it's fool proof but WHAT IS!? haha


Oh NOOOOES!! :shock: :shock: :shock:

You didn't get the memo?! We are all supposed to live in grass huts, eat turnips and try not to fart too much (it's bad for the environment you know!)

Technology is EVIL!

You need to rid yourself of all that evil technology that makes the rest of the world go round!!

Lets start by throwing all the slave masters out in the street and stomp the oppressors into oblivion!!

Don't you realize if you just got rid of that EEEEVIL Lipo battery in your cell phone you could take off your tinfoil hat at night! (They send messages while you sleep through the LiPo batteries! Like buy more Laptops, Cell Phones, and EEEVIL PC's!! Only Apple proprietary LiPo batteries have been cleansed of evil consumer propaganda ... how do you think Saint Steve (Jobs) really died?!!?! Someone switched the battery in his Iphone with a unsanctioned (unclean) LiPo battery!! :shock: :shock: :shock: )

HaHaHa Great I do love this forum :lol:
 
One of the beauties of this forum is that it never takes long to figure out who deserves to be on the ignore list...
 
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