I am trying to open 9C hub to add thermal sensor and possibly replace the phase wires. Can't get the cover off. I am trying to hit the opposite side of the axle with a heavy piece of wood but the cover does not move at all. Should I hit it with full force or there is a better way ?
opening 9C motor
- Thread starter curious
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dogman dan
1 PW
I like to get a cover started by taking a knife I don't mind abusing, and tapping the edge into the crack. Then thin screwdrivers, then the puller jaws. Don't insert any tool more than 1/4 inch in, and poke the windings.
I believe there is a bit of sealant on the 9c's, so you have to pop that loose. Personally, I don't really like the idea of slamming the hub too hard on a block of wood.
I believe there is a bit of sealant on the 9c's, so you have to pop that loose. Personally, I don't really like the idea of slamming the hub too hard on a block of wood.
That works for phase two once you get the gap open. I can't break loose the sealant though. I can certainly hammer a chisel under the cup edge but that would damage aluminum surfaces. I am more inclined to put a double nut on the opposite side of axle and hit it with full force.Ypedal said:
no.. just use the puller to apply pressure slowly and the seal will break nice and easy.. and you won't mess up the machined surfaces of the covers in the process :wink:
Yes, since the 9C motors have the wires exiting the axle you can only use the puller from one side.. but that's fine.. once you break the seal you can push the stator, cover, and all out from the magnets.
DO NOT USE THE PULLER TO PARTIALLY REMOVE THE COVER AND PUT YOUR FINGERS IN THE CRACK !!!!.... :wink: .. go all the way and remove the stator lol, or , release the puller to allow the stator to settle back into the magnets and since the seal is broken the cover will be fairly easy to remove, ( varies per motor.. )
DO NOT USE THE PULLER TO PARTIALLY REMOVE THE COVER AND PUT YOUR FINGERS IN THE CRACK !!!!.... :wink: .. go all the way and remove the stator lol, or , release the puller to allow the stator to settle back into the magnets and since the seal is broken the cover will be fairly easy to remove, ( varies per motor.. )
Is that a 10" or 8" jaw puller ? I'll take a look at local auto parts store today.
What do you use to re-seal the cap, regular silicone ? I got some high temp RTV free-flowing one for internal work but I think it would be too strong as a cap sealant.
What do you use to re-seal the cap, regular silicone ? I got some high temp RTV free-flowing one for internal work but I think it would be too strong as a cap sealant.
The key is to break the seal using a knife or a sharp wood chisel. I use a 1/4 inch wide chisel. Tap it into the crack and then use the bevel edge to pry the cover loose. I do a little at a time and then move the chisel around several inches and tap and pry, eventually getting all the way around. Then you can use a puller or set the wheel down with wired axle stub up and step on the rim to force the stator up. I use a small puller with and an old Suntour freewheel to grab the freewheel thread instead of using a large puller that hooks on the spoke flange. I once tried to use a block of wood and a hammer to knock the remaining cover from the hub/magnet ring and destroyed the cover before the sealant would let go!
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=18296
running a blade knife against the seam might help, but if you apply pressure and wait a bit the seal will usually break fairly easily without the need to impact or hit anything.
running a blade knife against the seam might help, but if you apply pressure and wait a bit the seal will usually break fairly easily without the need to impact or hit anything.
I could not find big enough pullers in two nearby auto parts stores so I took the risk, put the wheel on top of a bucket, put two nuts back to back on the axle and hit it hard with a hefty piece of firewood. Did the job in one step 
. No prying needed.
Now that I am staring at it I am not sure it makes a lot of sense to replace the phase wires in my case. This is a very slow wind 2810 and the phase bundle cross-section is comparable to the external lead cross section (if not smaller). It will be used at 66V (perhaps 72V later) but at proportionally lower currents than standard 9C winds.
I think I will end up just cutting the exit phase wires to 6-8" length and try to push a pair of thin ptfe temperature sensor wires through the existing protection sleeve.
. No prying needed.Now that I am staring at it I am not sure it makes a lot of sense to replace the phase wires in my case. This is a very slow wind 2810 and the phase bundle cross-section is comparable to the external lead cross section (if not smaller). It will be used at 66V (perhaps 72V later) but at proportionally lower currents than standard 9C winds.
I think I will end up just cutting the exit phase wires to 6-8" length and try to push a pair of thin ptfe temperature sensor wires through the existing protection sleeve.
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