PAS 1 to fast/strong .... What are my options to lower speed?

docw009 said:
CAGE RATTLER said:
The standard KT LCD3 or LCD8 and KT controller has more adjustability than what I have but not sure if its enough to do exactly what Im looking to do. For PAS it looked like only a 3 step setting (C14) in the advanced menu with 2 being default and 1 reducing power and 3 raising power. Unless im misunderstanding some of the other options.

With the LCD3, you can set C5 for 50-100% of the max current, and set C14 for weak,normal, or strong pedal strength. With my bikes, I've left it at 100% and strong assist. Never have tried the lower settings. The max current may have no effect on slower speeds since we're not pulling max. Maybe I'll give it a try tomorrow,

I think there's no need to be playing with custom firmware unless you like to twiddle with settings. That's why I never tried C5 variations. Set it at 100% of current is all I need.

If you do make the adjustments let us know the results. Sounds like that may only affect the top end and pulling power up a hill.
 
CAGE RATTLER said:
If you do make the adjustments let us know the results. Sounds like that may only affect the top end and pulling power up a hill.

C5 limits the available battery power to the motor electronically.

Because the different PAS levels are determined by the amount of WATTAGE they will allow, that C-5 setting will change the max amount of wattage available for each PAS level - in ADDITION to "affect the top end and pulling power up a hill".

To add some relevance maybe, my bike, depending on the C-5 and C-14 settings, PAS 1 will have anywhere from just under 100 watts available, to maybe something over 250 watts. C-14 is used to fine tune/dial in the big changes made with C-5

So the point I'm trying to make is that the PAS levels are easily tuned using both the C-5 and C-14 parameters to get something that will satisfy nearly anyone.
 
The parameter I recommend adjusting, is PAS to off. I'm an old motorcycle rider, throttle just came natural to me. WOT that is... took me a year of riding to learn to use less. :lol:

But seriously, your brain is much smarter and quicker than your controllers dumb computer. Its worth the effort, I assure you, to learn to set your gear and cadence to ideal, and never ever vary from that. you only vary the throttle to make riding eternally perfect. For me, this was truly the key for making it 80 miles in a days ride. Anything less than perfect riding would be exhausting. I'm too old for sprinting up those hills, or grinding into the wind.

PAS is preferred by people who like to sprint, still. but have help. I just want to grind away at a constant cadence, and constant 100w of pedal effort. Then I can do this for 5-7 hours. Any more effort, and I'm done in an hour.
 
dogman dan said:
I just want to grind away at a constant cadence, and constant 100w of pedal effort. Then I can do this for 5-7 hours. Any more effort, and I'm done in an hour.

At 69 years, me too.

Same type of history, including 40 years of snowmobiling (thumb throttle), nearly as many years on quads (also thumb throttle), and motorcycles since my early teens (twist throttle of course).

Like you, I like to pedal, and try to keep my contribution to the bikes motion as constant as I can (NOT A SPRINTER), BUT, I use my PAS levels and gearing to do that, WITHOUT using the throttle. Each PAS level gives proportionally more available wattage (not mph) and that wattage won't change any, no matter my speed. In PAS 1, I'll have about 100 watts available at 5 mph and that value will not change even if I'm going 20mph. I DO use the throttle to get the bike moving from a stop, and to deal with temporary/short term conditions. MY experience trying to use the throttle on a bike full time has not been good. It's hard to hold a steady speed (for me), and I find it hard on my wrist, or hand, depending on type of throttle used. I've tried both twist and thumb.

Point being, dependence on throttle vs. cadence is a matter of preference. No right, no wrong. Suit yourself. Like different strokes for different strokes?
 
I set the power down on one of my KT-controller ebikes to 50% by changing C5. Trouble was, I should have done it on my big bikes. I did it with my wife's new daily rider which is only a 17A controller and it pushes about 85W in PAS 1. So with 50% current, it pushes 60W, but this bike is so mild mannered, couldn't tell if the top speed in PAS 1 was affected. The parameter does work though, as full throttle watts dropped from about 600W to 350W, Eek. I shivered involuntarily and set it back. (I'm going to put a 20A on that bike.)

I don't think the OP wants this, because his higher performance will vanish. If he were to get a KT controller, I'd recommend he enable throttle in PAS 0 like dogman suggests. Then he can ride as slow as needed to allow, and feather in some power as needed.
 
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