Help Programming controller - Duotts C29 - Chinese E-bike PAS is very bad

[gpetric]

Greetings all! I read a lot of posts here today and i think i'm in the right place, a lot of smart and helpful people here!

Short version: How do i go about re-programming this thing? What do i even have? E-bike model is Duotts C29, 750w, 48v15Ah battery.

From google i figured my generic display model is called ''G 51'' , serial number on the back: XN22512307215168.
Sciwil looks to be OEM manufacturer for it, and in their user manual it says: ''explanation to the above Serial Code: 1：Program can be overridden（0 means can not be overridden)''. So that gives me hope.

https://www.sciwil.com/wp-content/uploads/User%20Manual%20G51_Protocol%202_%20V1.0.pdf

And in some other manuals its mentioned: UART as Communications Protocol

And numbers on my actual controller are: JH4AJ6021DZYK , Dongguan jing hui Controller (duotts says its 48V 21A sine wave)

Problem with this e-bike is that on every PAS levels 1-5 it just gives out MAX Power/ Watts , and only limits max speed... and manual throttle is also max speed limited by the currently selected PAS level on the display, and there is no setting available on that display that solves my issue....

I am new to this sort of thing and never done it... but I am tech-savvy and I eventually figure out whatever I put my mind to, with the help of internet and good people on forums


Long version: Just bought the bike from alibaba, (i planned to buy more for my business). I also bought rear-rack battery and dual battery voltage adapter so i can use both batteries at the same time, max range for delivery job is my goal... anyway did all that and went to test it out, just to be SEVERLY DISSAPOINTED by how BADLY this bike is set up /programmed.... No matter the PAS level selected it just gives out max power, and only limits its max speed... that's so dumb and non-usable... and on lvl 1 its limited to 19km/h! Right now its an electric scooter, not a bicycle! And to make things even worse, Throttle is also limited in max speed by the level of assist i selected!

Here is the example of how it should look like / what I want to achieve:

PAS 1 : 80W / 10KMH limit (OR NO LIMIT, NOT THAT IMPORTANT)
PAS 2: 150W / 15KMH
PAS 3: 350W / 30KMH
PAS 4: 500W / ...
PAS 5: 750W /...

Throttle max speed unlimited or not affected by the selected level of assist : give out W depending on how much throttle i give, independent of PAS settings

Anyway, you get what i'm saying and why this is so bad as it is right now.... i need pedaling to make sense and extend the range per my desires (hence the levels), And my throttle needs to be usable as it is intended, for me to have all the speed and power with a twist of the wrist! Oh! And i tried in settings P05 selecting 3 levels mode (instead of 5) and to my surprise its even worse! Those aren't programmed at all! On lvl 1 it gives max power and no speed limit, it just goes ! Also playing with P12 ''power boost start strength'' does nothing, did not noticed the difference, but that doesn't matter anyways, it is smooth enough, problem is that it does 750w all the time and i can't limit it!

How do i go about it? Can someone point me to the usb cable and PC software to use so i can play with it? Where do i plug it in? I hope that's possible...
Or do i need to buy new LCD that would have advanced settings i need, and would work with my controller? Or a whole new controller with display that would work with my motor? How do i identify what motor i have and does it even matter? What fits / what is compatible with what... anyway, i'm new to this...

Bike itself looks alright for the money, and has plenty of power really... but those guys at factory that did programming for it... the laziest thing ever, or pure incompetence, someone in that company should be replaced. Its really astonishing that they send out bikes set up this badly... This one thing makes the whole bike unusable and dumb, ruins the whole product.

Here are the pictures of my stuff. Hope you can help me with my problem guys, i really do... Thank you in advance!

 

[amberwolf]

It's highly unlikely that what you have is user-alterable. Most systems are not, especially those that come already on prebuilt bikes. If it has any way of programming it, that would come from the controller manufacturer, but if the bike maker chose to have them locked down when they were ordered, even that won't work.


There are some systems with slightly more programmability (like KT and Lishui controller/display sets that you can buy separately), but their PAS levels are still just on/off full amount of whatever assist there is for that level. Both KT and Lishui have versions that have "torque simulation" options where the assist levels control the battery current limit, instead of the speed limit.

Another potential benefit (depending on your willingness and ability for DIY) is that both KT and LS controllers have open-source firmware OSF OSFW available for some versions of their controllers, that have other options besides the OEM ones, and being OS you can also rewrite the software to do what you want if you have that ability.


The rest of the controllers I've seen all use just speed limits for the assist levels, and have nothing but the original OEM FW installed on them available, etc. Though most of them do have full override via throttle regardless of assist level, some limit the throttle the same way the PAS is limited.

So the way yours works is how pretty much all of them work, with very few exceptions. The exact details of how they are setup vary, and the amount of control the user may have over the individual assist settings varies, but they still all work basically the same way.


If you want something that gives you fully controllable PAS assist, without the need for any levels of assist, you can use the Cycle Analyst v3 from ebikes.ca to take your PAS and any other inputs, and output a simple throttle signal to control a dumb displayless no-PAS controller that always has full assist available via throttle (or a controller that doesn't require PAS to be connected to work, and always has full throttle assist available). Then you have full PAS control over speed or current or power (depending on your settings in the CA), even using just a simple cadence PAS sensor (or you can use a torque sensor if you like).


Or the Phaserunner v6 from ebikes.ca has direct PAS inputs and can also be setup similarly, with or without a display, with or without the CA. The PR is also an FOC controller, so it has better control over the motor than the usual stuff like what you've got there, regardless of control method, since you can fine tune it quite a bit for specific bikes and specific usages (per-customer, for instance).


Some versions of VESC may also have the ability to use a PAS sensor this way.


Personally I think all systems should use the PAS to actually modulate the assist, not just turn it on or off, as there is absolutely no technical reason they can't--every single one of these systems *could* do this, but they just don't. :/


I use the CA3 to do this on my SB Cruiser heavy-cargo trike, but I also have the PR6 and at some point I'm probably going to experiment with direct PAS control of it, but it works perfectly well with the CA doing the job so I haven't messed with it. (I also haven't messed with the torque sensor control, just the cadence, even though I have a TS built into the same control on the trike).

 

[neptronix]

Generally speaking the PAS on prebuilt bikes tends to be close to useless, and sometimes dangerous.
The only thing you can really do is replace the controller, because these random and ever changing chinese makes of controllers aren't even worth figuring out how to hack.

 

[gpetric]

It's highly unlikely that what you have is user-alterable. Most systems are not, especially those that come already on prebuilt bikes. If it has any way of programming it, that would come from the controller manufacturer, but if the bike maker chose to have them locked down when they were ordered, even that won't work.


There are some systems with slightly more programmability (like KT and Lishui controller/display sets that you can buy separately), but their PAS levels are still just on/off full amount of whatever assist there is for that level. Both KT and Lishui have versions that have "torque simulation" options where the assist levels control the battery current limit, instead of the speed limit.

Another potential benefit (depending on your willingness and ability for DIY) is that both KT and LS controllers have open-source firmware OSF OSFW available for some versions of their controllers, that have other options besides the OEM ones, and being OS you can also rewrite the software to do what you want if you have that ability.


The rest of the controllers I've seen all use just speed limits for the assist levels, and have nothing but the original OEM FW installed on them available, etc. Though most of them do have full override via throttle regardless of assist level, some limit the throttle the same way the PAS is limited.

So the way yours works is how pretty much all of them work, with very few exceptions. The exact details of how they are setup vary, and the amount of control the user may have over the individual assist settings varies, but they still all work basically the same way.


If you want something that gives you fully controllable PAS assist, without the need for any levels of assist, you can use the Cycle Analyst v3 from ebikes.ca to take your PAS and any other inputs, and output a simple throttle signal to control a dumb displayless no-PAS controller that always has full assist available via throttle (or a controller that doesn't require PAS to be connected to work, and always has full throttle assist available). Then you have full PAS control over speed or current or power (depending on your settings in the CA), even using just a simple cadence PAS sensor (or you can use a torque sensor if you like).


Or the Phaserunner v6 from ebikes.ca has direct PAS inputs and can also be setup similarly, with or without a display, with or without the CA. The PR is also an FOC controller, so it has better control over the motor than the usual stuff like what you've got there, regardless of control method, since you can fine tune it quite a bit for specific bikes and specific usages (per-customer, for instance).


Some versions of VESC may also have the ability to use a PAS sensor this way.


Personally I think all systems should use the PAS to actually modulate the assist, not just turn it on or off, as there is absolutely no technical reason they can't--every single one of these systems *could* do this, but they just don't. :/


I use the CA3 to do this on my SB Cruiser heavy-cargo trike, but I also have the PR6 and at some point I'm probably going to experiment with direct PAS control of it, but it works perfectly well with the CA doing the job so I haven't messed with it. (I also haven't messed with the torque sensor control, just the cadence, even though I have a TS built into the same control on the trike).

but if the bike maker chose to have them locked down when they were ordered, even that won't work.

OEM for my LCD display gives me hope in their user manual i found, from my serial number it is said that it is ''programmable''

''Explanation to the above Serial Code:192：Customer Code2：Protocol Code1：Program can be overridden（0 means can not be overridden）210603011：P.O. (purchase order number)''

I am ready to go down the rabbit hole to figure this out, it would be non issue if its only 1 bike for me... i already own custom bafang Kross MTB that works great... but i need to buy many cheaper bikes like this, 20-30 pieces, and whatever i buy i would probably be met with the same problem, so i want to figure this out as to not buy additional new controller and display with every bike.... but if i'm unable to 'hack it', i am ready to just buy another sets of controllers or whatever i need to be able to limit the % of power assist gives at given level... Surely it must be possible to limit the amount of W and max speed cutoff it gives at selected levels... if i could only access and edit values somehow with some program... because i see many brands with the same bike like this, all probably from same big oem-s which allows them 'brands' to configure it, there must be a way this ''duotts'' guys do ti.

KT and Lishui

Its the option if im unable to ''hack'' these, i would have more questions about them later, what/which ones to buy, will they work? What do i have now, what's it called anyways? Generic china do-do? xD
With what you said they sound perfectly fine for me, could i select for myself how much W or % of available power they outpoot for selected level of assist, and respectable max speed cutout? I dont need anything more than that... I saw on youtube LCD-s with nice amount of settings, they used ratios, like on lvl 1 20% of power, and 40% of set max speed limit... that would be perfectly fine for my needs... But if its cheap, i would even accept ones with not that much adjustability, if by default settings made sence like.. 20% of assist at lvl 1!

Cycle Analyst v3

I lost you from here, sounded interesting, like some bypass systems that can make what i have work like i want it to and even more? But i didnt fully understand how it works... but i googled it and they are way too expensive, at least they sound much more expensive than just buying new controller and display which would have what i want. (i am from europe btw)

How expensive would even be the new KT/Lishui controller and display that i would need?

 

[amberwolf]

OEM for my LCD display gives me hope in their user manual i found, from my serial number it is said that it is ''programmable''

''Explanation to the above Serial Code:192：Customer Code2：Protocol Code1：Program can be overridden（0 means can not be overridden）210603011：P.O. (purchase order number)''

I am ready to go down the rabbit hole to figure this out, it would be non issue if its only 1 bike for me... i already own custom bafang Kross MTB that works great... but i need to buy many cheaper bikes like this, 20-30 pieces, and whatever i buy i would probably be met with the same problem, so i want to figure this out as to not buy additional new controller and display with every bike.... but if i'm unable to 'hack it', i am ready to just buy another sets of controllers or whatever i need to be able to limit the % of power assist gives at given level... Surely it must be possible to limit the amount of W and max speed cutoff it gives at selected levels... if i could only access and edit values somehow with some program... because i see many brands with the same bike like this, all probably from same big oem-s which allows them 'brands' to configure it, there must be a way this ''duotts'' guys do ti.

It's unlikely that the bike factory does anything to the controllers. They almost certainly just order a batch of them factory programmed to whatever they wanted. But you'd have to get the setup software (and probably cabling) from either the bike manufacturer (if they do it) if they will send or sell it to you, and if they don't then you'd have to get it from the controller manufacturer if they will send or sell it to you. It's pretty unlikely that you'll even get a response from either one, but you can always try.

Its the option if im unable to ''hack'' these, i would have more questions about them later, what/which ones to buy, will they work?

That's something you'll have to determine yourself based on reading their manuals, which are available in various places on this forum with some poking around, and on the internet in general. KT is Kunteng / Kun Teng, and LS is LiShui Li Shui.

Keep in mind that every manufacturer changes things over time and makes multiple versions of products, not all of which all do the same things. So you have to research to make sure you are actually getting the right version of the right product that has the specific options you need.

Buying from the cheapest seller is often a great way to get the wrong random version of something, since most sellers have no idea what they're actually selling, so make sure that you can communicate with a seller reliably before buying, and that they are clearly responding to your questions with the answers you actually need. If they're not, don't buy from them.

What do i have now, what's it called anyways? Generic china do-do? xD

One of a bajillion different controller / etc ebike-stuff manufacturers out there, most of whom are making clones of other people's designs, just in cheaper ways with less options and no hardware/software developers of their own so they never fix design/etc problems.

I lost you from here, sounded interesting, like some bypass systems that can make what i have work like i want it to and even more? But i didnt fully understand how it works...

The CA itself is a complicated computer; there are numerous threads about it's usage in different ebike systems, and a big "beta" thread with many pages of info about it's evolution and usages. But the ebikes.ca info page for it, including the manuals (and videos if you're the type that can watch those), have detailed info on each function and in some cases how you might use them. There is also info in the manuals on the process of setting it up, and many posts by Teklektik about how to configure for various uses (though those posts aren't about the current firmware version, they're still useful and applicable to most setups).

The PR is a complicated controller, but the setup software and manual make it fairly easy to setup for most usages and systems. Tuning one is still a process if it doesn't just work...but it often does just work--on my SB Cruiser trike with the old Ultramotor/TDCM DD hubmotor it just needed the "autotune" and then settting up my throttle voltage range and battery voltage range, and deciding which of a few options to turn on or off, and it just works. (on a GMAC geared hub, there were some issues that I never did figure out, but I didn't like the noise of that motor anyway; the DD hub is completely silent with the PR so I'm very happy with that. ) .

but i googled it and they are way too expensive, at least they sound much more expensive than just buying new controller and display which would have what i want. (i am from europe btw)

Cost depends on what you want to do--sometimes you can only do certain things by spending money, or learning how to do them yourself and designing/building your own control system. (there are open-source devices out there, including here on ES, that could be adapted to these functions, but it would be up to you to learn how to do this, or probably pay someone else to do so).

Neither the CA nor the PR is cheap...so if you're looking to sell cheap bikes, they're not the solution you want. But if you're looking to sell highly customizable setups, they might be.

 

[gpetric]

Neither the CA nor the PR is cheap...so if you're looking to sell cheap bikes, they're not the solution you want. But if you're looking to sell highly customizable setups, they might be.

Nah, i just want to rent e-bikes to delivery guys in my city. Hence dual battery DIY, focus on max range so i can have good ''product''.
I am talking on alibaba with seller, but there is clearly a language barierr or she is just playing dumb, she wants to tell me about ''settings'' on my lcd, i am way past that, now she wants me to make her a video, which i will, like a pro. I asked her to ask her technical stuff if i can have their programming software. Maybe i'll get it after i prove with video my settings are ''fine'' and i cannot adjust what really needs to be reprogrammed.

Also took a look at these, those are KT controllers right? I bought extra battery from them, they look like allright vendor. Around 70€ with shipping for controller + lcd + ''throttle'', and it says sensorless, idk what it means, but looks like im gona need to find out how many wires my motor have

24V/36V 250W-- 36V/48V 500W--36V/48V 1000W~1500W Brushless DC Torque Simulation Square ebike Electric Bicycle Hub Motor Controller with right output

24V/36V 250W-- 36V/48V 500W--36V/48V 1000W~1500W Brushless DC Torque Simulation Square ebike Electric Bicycle Hub Motor Controller with right output

www.pswpower.com

 

[gpetric]

There are some systems with slightly more programmability

Btw, where are parameters saved, where is it pulling it from? Directly from controller, or in LCD display? Because i found some display that are suspiciously similar, like SW900 has same menu settings (PO8 is max speed etc exactly as my current display).
Could i try just replacing it and hopefully get different program, with actual PAS levels working as they should?

Also looking at KT controller+lcd kits, around 60-70€, but my butt already hurts because cables from controller are not the same as on my bike (lot of work and learning to figure out how to connect it correctly)

Also, i made video for my alibaba sales rep, so why not share it here with you guys, so we can laugh at my sadness together xD
I know i repeated myself 10 times in video, but my sales rep lady is playing dumb or is just not paying attention to what my problem is. (or no habla engleze)

 

[B_c]

Have you tried with P10 to see if anything changes when you set it to 0 or 1?

P10: Drive Mode Setting 0: Pedal Assist – The specific gear of the assist drive decides the assist powervalue. In this status the throttle does not work. 1: Electric Drive – The vehicle is driven by the throttle. In this status the powergear does not work.

I have a display that has similar settings, and it's called Focan en06.

On one of my bicycles, I have a KT controller and five LCD displays, also from Kunteng. Sometimes, when I change the display, I notice an error, and I have to adjust the settings on that LCD display as well. I believe that most of the settings are in the LCD, not in the controller.

So, I believe that the controller is programmed not to accept commands from the LCD.

 

[docw009]

Did you read your SCWIL manual, specifically page 6-7 where it explains the 16 P settings?

P05 chooses 3 or 5 levels
P10 = 2 for throttle & pedal assist
P11 and P12, adjust to lower pedal assist response.
P14 affects controller amps.

If this doesn't work for your display, sorry, you posted the link. Then the proper question to ask your seller is what P values are needed.

KT controllers have good pedal assist, but it's not worth changing a dozen bikes.

 

[amberwolf]

Btw, where are parameters saved, where is it pulling it from? Directly from controller, or in LCD display? Because i found some display that are suspiciously similar, like SW900 has same menu settings (PO8 is max speed etc exactly as my current display).
Could i try just replacing it and hopefully get different program, with actual PAS levels working as they should?

Displays and controllers are not generally intercompatible. There are many protocols and data formats and datasets used, no "standardization". So it is likely that only displays from your specific controller manufacturer will work, even if the wiring between them is identical (which is also not always the case). You can always try different ones if you like, anyway.


Different systems use different storage/etc schemes. It's most likely that the settings are stored in the controller (so running without the display always uses whatever the last settings changed were, but the default assist level), but some store them in the display, and then send them to the controller at power up / initialization (so running the controller without the display just always uses default factory settings and assist level).


But *how* the controller works is still part of the controller's built-in firmware, so what it does for any setting the display tells it to use is still controlled by that, not the display.

All the display essentially does is tell it to use "choice 5 of menu 14" or "choice 12 of menu 2", etc.

Also looking at KT controller+lcd kits, around 60-70€, but my butt already hurts because cables from controller are not the same as on my bike (lot of work and learning to figure out how to connect it correctly)

That's unfortunately typical--most systems are different from each other, and you can find some "brands" that even have different cabling/connectors on different versions.

Thankfully for KT / etc there are numerous sites and pages that show the wiring / connectors for most of them, for the most common versions.
A few examples: KT controller connector wiring - Google Search

If you show us clearly with clearly-labelled well-focused clear well-lit pictures of each connector you have now, we may be able to help you find the pinouts/matching connectors for them.

 

[gpetric]

Did you read your SCWIL manual, specifically page 6-7 where it explains the 16 P settings?

Yeah i went thro it all , nothing can change the fact that it always outpoots 100% power, thats something they failed at the factory when programming this crap.
P16 is odometer reset, P15 controller undervoltage.

Have you tried with P10 to see if anything changes when you set it to 0 or 1?

Did, 00 only pedal works, 01 only throttle works, 02 both work, didnt affect things they all suck by their own or together.

P05 chooses 3 or 5 levels

same thing on 3, power not limited, and P12 boost start strentgh i failed to notice any difference between 0-5, feels the same.
P11 is 0-24, no difference in sensitivity
P08 tho if i reduce it from 100 to 40 (max speed) also lowers speed limits on assist levels. Doesnt help my case, but at least its less dangerous


I am googling trying to find a way to reprogram this, my sales rep from alibaba is very not helpfull at all, told her 10 times difference between power and speed and what my problem is, she just keeps telling me about P08 and ''speed is good'', i started getting mad at her...

If unable to find a way ''hack'' these, i will buy LCD that sound similar to see if it will work, and also controller+lcd from KD

 

[B_c]

You shouldn't invest in a new LCD because the error lies in the controller. The controller isn't receiving commands from the LCD. However, you might be invest in a new Kunteng controller and LCD.

 

[gpetric]

Thankfully for KT / etc there are numerous sites and pages

Can you guys link any KT sellers with good prices? There are heaps of randoms on aliexpres

 

[gpetric]

You shouldn't invest in a new LCD because the error lies in the controller. The controller isn't receiving commands from the LCD. However, you might be invest in a new Kunteng controller and LCD.

I know its a long shot, but if there is even a 15% chance that it might work, i'm willing to spend 30€ for a chance of easy plug and play solution. Cables are the same, and PO settings in menu are the same as mine, might work? https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005470972407.html

Also i can buy 5 or 6 pin version, if i can count right, i have 5 pin, even tho there is a slight hole, but thats perhaps just manifacture defect xD

 

[B_c]

There's only a small chance that the LCD you want to buy will work with the existing controller, and that's if they're made by the same company, meaning they might share the same protocol. Otherwise, you'd just be wasting money.
I have at least 6 LCDs with the same connector, and none of them would definitely work with your controller.

 

[gpetric]

If you show us clearly with clearly-labelled well-focused clear well-lit pictures of each connector you have now, we may be able to help you find the pinouts/matching connectors for them.

Turns out i allready have KT controller with LCD5 in hand, on my other bafang ebike that local guy built for me, so i will reinstall it on my china bike to test it xD I was just about to ask if i should go with sensored on sensorless controller (my china bike has 9 wire sensored from engine tho) and topbikekit.com has good cable options when ordering... but i figured out instead of waiting for it to arrive, i will just reinstall it from my other bike , cables will fit, 5-1 like mine and 9 pin WP to engine is long enough, i will only have to reinstall its PAS sensor because its different pin, but looks like i wont have to cut anything.

I have questions about P settings, china user manuals are pretty.. china like, but in some tutorial i found that:

P1 – parameter determines the transmission ratio for motors with a reduction gear. This is important in order to calculate the correct speed as the motor and the wheel rotate at different speeds. The value is a ratio between 1-255.

P2 – determines the frequency of the hall sensor signal per revolution, important for determining the speed and position of the motor. The most common values are 1 and 6, 0 disables sensor reading.

Are there any more important settings that i need to set up besides wheel diameter? Arent there supposed to be magnet counts or something? And ofc i dont know these values, i will ask my dumb alibaba sales person but i highly doubt she will be of any help, but i will ask for specs anyway, what info do i need? how do i go about this any advice, how important is it ?

 

[willstealthy]

Greetings all! I read a lot of posts here today and i think i'm in the right place, a lot of smart and helpful people here!

Short version: How do i go about re-programming this thing? What do i even have? E-bike model is Duotts C29, 750w, 48v15Ah battery.

From google i figured my generic display model is called ''G 51'' , serial number on the back: XN22512307215168.
Sciwil looks to be OEM manufacturer for it, and in their user manual it says: ''explanation to the above Serial Code: 1：Program can be overridden（0 means can not be overridden)''. So that gives me hope.

https://www.sciwil.com/wp-content/uploads/User%20Manual%20G51_Protocol%202_%20V1.0.pdf

And in some other manuals its mentioned: UART as Communications Protocol

And numbers on my actual controller are: JH4AJ6021DZYK , Dongguan jing hui Controller (duotts says its 48V 21A sine wave)

Problem with this e-bike is that on every PAS levels 1-5 it just gives out MAX Power/ Watts , and only limits max speed... and manual throttle is also max speed limited by the currently selected PAS level on the display, and there is no setting available on that display that solves my issue....

I am new to this sort of thing and never done it... but I am tech-savvy and I eventually figure out whatever I put my mind to, with the help of internet and good people on forums


Long version: Just bought the bike from alibaba, (i planned to buy more for my business). I also bought rear-rack battery and dual battery voltage adapter so i can use both batteries at the same time, max range for delivery job is my goal... anyway did all that and went to test it out, just to be SEVERLY DISSAPOINTED by how BADLY this bike is set up /programmed.... No matter the PAS level selected it just gives out max power, and only limits its max speed... that's so dumb and non-usable... and on lvl 1 its limited to 19km/h! Right now its an electric scooter, not a bicycle! And to make things even worse, Throttle is also limited in max speed by the level of assist i selected!

Here is the example of how it should look like / what I want to achieve:

PAS 1 : 80W / 10KMH limit (OR NO LIMIT, NOT THAT IMPORTANT)
PAS 2: 150W / 15KMH
PAS 3: 350W / 30KMH
PAS 4: 500W / ...
PAS 5: 750W /...

Throttle max speed unlimited or not affected by the selected level of assist : give out W depending on how much throttle i give, independent of PAS settings

Anyway, you get what i'm saying and why this is so bad as it is right now.... i need pedaling to make sense and extend the range per my desires (hence the levels), And my throttle needs to be usable as it is intended, for me to have all the speed and power with a twist of the wrist! Oh! And i tried in settings P05 selecting 3 levels mode (instead of 5) and to my surprise its even worse! Those aren't programmed at all! On lvl 1 it gives max power and no speed limit, it just goes ! Also playing with P12 ''power boost start strength'' does nothing, did not noticed the difference, but that doesn't matter anyways, it is smooth enough, problem is that it does 750w all the time and i can't limit it!

How do i go about it? Can someone point me to the usb cable and PC software to use so i can play with it? Where do i plug it in? I hope that's possible...
Or do i need to buy new LCD that would have advanced settings i need, and would work with my controller? Or a whole new controller with display that would work with my motor? How do i identify what motor i have and does it even matter? What fits / what is compatible with what... anyway, i'm new to this...

Bike itself looks alright for the money, and has plenty of power really... but those guys at factory that did programming for it... the laziest thing ever, or pure incompetence, someone in that company should be replaced. Its really astonishing that they send out bikes set up this badly... This one thing makes the whole bike unusable and dumb, ruins the whole product.

Here are the pictures of my stuff. Hope you can help me with my problem guys, i really do... Thank you in advance!

View attachment 344504View attachment 344505View attachment 344506View attachment 344508View attachment 344509

Hello there I have the same controller you do except it's boosted to 28amp max. This is on a Ridstar 1k watt 48v bike. I went through the same thing with PA being full blasted when you pedal at any levels. Kinda scary too as this was my first ebike I went through these sensitivity settings and nothing changes. When I mount the bike since I'm short and stand on the pedals..thank God I didn't crash even on PA1. Just because the display can be set I think the controller ignores it since it doesn't have that function.

 

[gpetric]

I installed KT controller and display from my other bike... it doesnt work... even tho all the connectors are the same... 9 pin wp plug to moter, and 5-1 for brakes, display etc... it s not the same, they have their own way of wireing obviously, and it was just behaving wierdly... motor doesnt move, and Voltage display was 36v (on 48v system), and when i press the brake voltage would rise.... and LCD would turn on when i insert the battery only, if i turn it off lcd would not turn on again... i have lost my will to live dude... fuken chinese....

 

[gpetric]

Hello there I have the same controller you do except it's boosted to 28amp max. This is on a Ridstar 1k watt 48v bike. I went through the same thing with PA being full blasted when you pedal at any levels. Kinda scary too as this was my first ebike I went through these sensitivity settings and nothing changes. When I mount the bike since I'm short and stand on the pedals..thank God I didn't crash even on PA1. Just because the display can be set I think the controller ignores it since it doesn't have that function.

i was just talking with ridstar they have same s29 model, i am just asking the same questions about PAS settings... so it also sucks, damn, wont be buying that either than....

 

[docw009]

The 9 pin motor cables have to be a standard layout. At least KT and Bafang use the same pins.

Just plug in the KT controller with the display and battery. No motor. No throttle. No PAS. No brakes. Display should light up like it did on the other bike, If that works, then connect the motor. Try Walk Mode.

 

[gpetric]

Motor plug works... i put everything back on each bike where it belongs, and just connected 9pin motor plug to my china bike, works fine.... problem is 1-5/6 cable not compatible (brake+brake+lcd+throttle+buttons for horn and lights) and +1 for lights).... i will have to buy new lights and all the other stuff that goes together with kt controller, and all this on china bike i can throw in trash... lights, seperate switch for horn and lights, ah, fml...... but it needs to be done, bike cannot be ridden for deliveries if it gives out max power at PAS1... ffs...

I was thinking of lowering ''Current Limit Value'' P14 setting , goes 1-20, default is 12.... but doing that would probably just make bike unable to climb hills... i really hate this, but the bike is so cheap that i will have to make it work. Its 620€ shipped, cheaper than buying cheap diy kit + batt + used mtb. Such a shame i have to throw controller, lcd, cables, lights, buttons, brake leavers and probably pas, but is still cheaper than DIY.

Update: P14 does jack shit, lowered it to 4, it still just gives full blast! Also i spun out and fell on my ass while turning 180* on a road with PAS2, this bycicle is such a bullshit, and not a single of those paid YT reviewers dont even mention it! Well i will do a big youtube video review of how c29 is dangerous and stupid! Maybe then the frocking manifacturers will do something about this lazy ass bullshit programming! How is it possible that they overlooked that and didnt bother to program PAS properly, how lazy and STUPID and CARLESS are they! Sorry for venting out, i just cant figure out why didnt they set it up properly, there is no reason not to, hardware used is capable of that!

... or i could disable pedal mode and tell people to only use throttle... but i figure that would be unpractical, stupid and lazy of me, and they would all just use throttle and 0 pedaling, ever, and complain how my bikes have low range...

Bike itself is not half bad, 23,4kg (without batteries ofc) with extra rear rack battery mount, compared to diy bafang on kross hexagon 8.0 21,36kg (without battery) which is by itself an 700€ bycicle new, + i paid 1100€ to a guy for 24,5Ah 500w bafang conversion.
Duotts ebike is a great fuken deal... but fuken chinese mfos f***** it up for no reason.... I am so mad. My buissiness partner who hires delivery workers is already asking me for bikes, while i still heavent decided what to get, and i need to get 20+ of them real fast, and i cant afford to just waste money buying 1500-2000€ bikes.

 

[gpetric]

Question, what are those white connector types called? I wanna buy a box of this things so i can connect it all myself.
Will probably buy this for 50 $, controller + display + pas https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_DEeKlgV

Than ill buy WP plug extension wires for brakes, throttle and lights and connect that to controller, so i can use what allready comes with bike, sounds most economical.

Controllers with WP plugs are quite more expensive, + i would need julet cable extension to engine, + julet 1T5 cable for controls which is itself 18€ minimum, that all adds up to double the cost.

 

[willstealthy]

That controller you pointed out is only 14amps...

 

[calab]

They are not even real Molex, Molex connectors have different pitch/series.

https://www.molex.com/en-us/products/connectors/wire-to-wire-connectors

 

[gpetric]

That controller you pointed out is only 14amps...

nah they have more options.

But i got sick of it because of lights etc, so i just found new supplier and ordered 3 sample bikes for same price as duotts, supposedly they have kt controllers and i wont have this problems to deal with. One even comes with direct drive gearless motor, so i will be experimeting what is best for deliveries. People be saying i will get less range with it and bad uphill acceleration, but no maintnence, no plastic gears to grind down. Well see

Cant wait to make youtube video bashing duotts and every other reviewer that didnt even mention how bad this problem is.
I tested 'realistic' range with its 15Ah battery in city, limited speed to 30kmh, got 52km out of battery, and it was awful experience, i disabled Pedal assist and only used throttle mode and helped pedaling normally. Before i did controlled test on a lake bycicle track, cruise control to 35kmh with no stopping, got 42km range.
Tested second 15ah battery on a lake, miraculasly got also exactly 42km range, science! While my bafang diy bike with 24,5Ah battery got 72km range, so its like 16-17Wh of power per kilometer on cold weather. In controlled test enviroment.