Please help with my ZERO DS 2010 broke

[jmjm1]

Hi:

I have a serious problem with my 2010 ZERO DS and I do not know what can be the solution.

The bike was first launched in 2012 and has only 1,500 miles.

For months ago, I washed the bike with a water pressure machine. I let the bike dry two hours. After the bike ran for 5 miles and then the electric motor did not do work. The motor was stuck by a broken brush blocking the movement of the motor armature Agni 95R. I turned off the bike and relit three times. At first, the bike lit sounded "beep" all ok BMS. The instrument was turned on but the motor would not turn. The third time I tried to turn the motor, the bike system is turned off, and for 6 months has not been turned on again. Now when I put the ignition key to "ON" sounds "beep" of the BMS ok, but after the instrument panel no lights, nor the red light that indicates the error code lights.

I measured the voltage of the 14 cell battery pack and each shows 4.1 volts. The entire battery pack is 57.8 volts. In theory, the battery pack is 48 volts and the rated voltage is logically higher, so I think, although I am not an expert, that the problem is not with the battery pack.

I just noticed another motorcycle (motorcycle works perfectly ZERO S 2011) in the event that there is any broken or malfunctioning component normally comes power to the instrument panel and a red light to indicate the detected error code by the brain of the bike (BMM) by the number of flashes emitted.

I have also observed that in all cases there may be a problem in the system of the motorcycle, for example, a problem with the engine temperature sensor, or a problem with the throttle or low voltage battery pack, it may be that the instrument panel does not light (for low voltage battery pack, for example) but always, and in all cases, the red light on the instrument panel indicating the error code detected by the BMM. In all the above cases, if there is an error code, the contactor does not jump.

My problem is that the instrument panel does not light, but also no red light error code lights (With the DrBass help and tips I have learned to checked the voltage of the battery pack, the contactor, throttle, controller, DC-DC converter). All these components are tested and working properly. It is like if any form of energy came to the Instrument panel (Dashboard).

The motor 95 R agni is repaired. It is a pack of 8 new brushes and a new toothbrush holder with a new engine temperature sensor purchased with the kindness and help of Steve from JozzTeck. The engine now turns perfectly with an external power (12 volt battery).

I also checked on the bike to work (ZERO 2011 S), never skip the stator until the instrument is turned on, it performs the test that everything is correct and no error code lights, only then, is when the contactor jump and the controller allows to rotate the electric motor.

Based on the above observations, I conclude that we should focus on diagnosing the fault of my ZERO DS 2010, on the question of why that red light on the instrument panel, which reports the detected error is not lit, because that is the prelude everything else to work.

My thoughts on the matter, now that the problem might be broken the instrument panel, and for that reason, the red indicator light on the error code is not illuminated. The other possibility is that the BMM is broken.

I do not know if there is a method to verify the correct operation of the instrument panel. I do not know if maybe there is a fuse inside it or not.
Please, I need your help, suggestions and opinions about my problem with the 2010 ZERO DS.

 

[amberwolf]

Since the problem started after the bike was wet and got worse after sitting, it could be corrosion of a connector contact. The first thing I'd do is disconnect every connector one at a time, and check the pins and contacts, cleaning each one that isn't completely shiny and new-looking, and then plug them back in, and go on to the next connector.

If you can't see teh contacts of one, or get to them to clean them, you can try just plugging it back in and unplugging it and plugging it back in several times to try to scrape the contacts clean enough to work.

 

[dnmun]

pressure washer means you were able to push water into sealed electronics compartments past the gaskets imo. the water is still inside so you have to disassemble the sealed compartments and try to dry it out and pour out the water still remaining inside shorting out the circuitry. if battery voltage got into parts that cannot handle the high voltage then they may be damaged too.

if you have a broken brush that prevents the motor from turning that would seem to be of concern too.

 

[amberwolf]

if you have a broken brush that prevents the motor from turning that would seem to be of concern too.

The motor 95 R agni is repaired. It is a pack of 8 new brushes and a new toothbrush holder with a new engine temperature sensor purchased with the kindness and help of Steve from JozzTeck. The engine now turns perfectly with an external power (12 volt battery).

 

[jmjm1]

Thank you very much for your help amberwolf and dnmun

I'm going back to check the status of all connectors. I also cleaned all of them but now I'm going back to clean them with a specific contact cleaner and I'm going back to check the correct position of all connector pins.

I think it is good advice to try checking the inside of the sealed compartments together imo. The problem is that I do not know what I can verify that the following components are tested and working properly: Throttle controller, DC-DC converter, contactor, battery pack (delivering 57.4 volts measured between the positive cable and the negative cable).

The only components that I have not known to verify are the BMM and the instrument panel. Are you referring to that dnmun? ¿can I open the BMM without risk of damaging something inside?

In the case that all the connectors are clean and working and no water or oxides and traces of water into sealed electronics compartments past the gaskets imo,What else can affect the red light error code does not turn on or do not arrive energy?

Thanks so much. I hope your instructions impatient. I wish could go back to enjoy again my ZERO DS 2010 with my son of 4 years old, driving on trails near my house.

 

[dnmun]

from the way you described the failure, it failed after riding for a few miles so i expect that there was water that shorted something in the controller or the BMS devices to cause it to go into shutdown mode. it took time to move around inside the casing until it hit something.

i am not familiar with them at all but just how i would expect it to fail if water got inside the controller

 

[jmjm1]

Thank you dnmun. I understand your reasoning, but I've checked the controller removing it from my ZERO 2010 Ds and using it in another motorcycle ZERO 2011 ZS and the controller works correctly.

The BMS of the battery pack also works correctly. When turn ON position the ignition key, the BMS battery pack emits a "beep" indicating that the initial test of the battery pack is correct. Currently the BMS makes no other error code.

 

[Hillhater]

Remember the guy with all the elec problems on his zero last year ?....
No power to the motor,...Blank readout etc
http://www.endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=50956
I think it was a sticking main contractor that was the root cause.

 

[jmjm1]

Hillhater, thank you very much for your information. It is very interesting.

I read on the topic suggested by you viewtopic.php?f=10&t=50956 . Unfortunately I think that the problem described is not the same as mine.

I have been wrong to write the word above “stator”. What I meant was “contactor”. I am sorry. The contactor my ZERO 2010 DS is verified and jumps correctly when I perform verification with an external power. When I apply external power to the positive and negative (57 volts) my contactor jumps correctly and pass the energy through it . When I stopped applying power to the negative pole contactor returns to off position. I've changed the word in the above texts. Thank you very much for the precision

Furthermore, in this topic, the owner of the ZERO 2010 at all times writes that he has an error code "Board Temperature Sensor Out of Range" therefore in his case he has the red light on the instrument panel with an error found in the system. My problem is different, in my instrument panel has no energy to start, nor there are red light about error code. For the above reason is why I suspect that perhaps the fault is inside the instrument panel or in the BMM.

I pose a new question to the experts who are helping me with your experience and wisdom; DrBass, Amberwolf, dnmun, Hillhater and other friends who can help me.

I have the possibility of having an instrument panel and a BMM work right of a ZERO 2011 S. Although the two motorcycles are similar (2010 and 2011) and use the same electric motor (AGNI 95 R), the same controller (Alltrax AXE 4855 R5), the same throttle (0-5 ohms) and the same contactor (MZJ 200 D 48Volt 200 Amp), the connections are different to the input of the battery pack. On the other hand, I think the ZERO 2011 BMM is outside of the battery pack and the 2010 model is into the battery pack. Or for example, the red light that indicates excessive temperature in the electric motor, on the model 2010 ZERO model, is a light outside of the instrument panel. However, in the 2011 ZERO model, the light is into the instrument panel.

My questions are:

- I could use the instrument panel of the 2011 ZERO model to check my 2010 ZERO model to verify if the fault is in this component?

- Could I use the BMM of the 2011 ZERO model to check my 2010 ZERO model to verify if the fault is in this component?

- Is it a risk I damage components if I do these tests? or put another way, are compatible these two components between 2010 and 2011 ZERO model?

- If I open the inside of the instrument panel. What things can I look for suspect something is broken?

Thank you so much your help

 

[dnmun]

is there a ZERO users group somewhere or is there a ZERO thread over on elmoto.org?

 

[jmjm1]

I am sorry dnmun but I do not understand your last comment

 

[dnmun]

i thought maybe some of the guys who own ZEROs and hang out here would know where you can go for advice and take the time to help you out. elmoto is the only electric motorcycle forum i know of.

 

[jmjm1]

Ah! Ok I understand right now. I found a ZERO user group in

http://electricmotorcycleforum.com/boards/index.php?board=6.0

Is this what you mean to me?

I'll ask about the problems of my ZERO DS 2010 also on that site. Thank you very much dnmun

 

[dnmun]

this is another, they may be able to help:

http://www.elmoto.net/

 

[jmjm1]

Thanks dnmun:

I already asked my question in both forums.
http://electricmotorcycleforum.com
http://www.elmoto.net/

This weekend I'll have time and I will continue testing. Yesterday Friday night, I disarmed the instrument panel completely. All seemed right. The fuse for the instrument panel is effectively out of it and it is correct.

Now I'm going to focus on the internal disassembly BMM.

Thank you very much.