Qulbix Raptor 140

[Hyena]

But the question remains on the TC40xx series-are the phase wires 16 gauge and the axles made from cheese?

I've had a batch made by crystalyte but it's probably not worth the postage cost to ship them outside Australia. They all have stronger axles (14mm) and I've specced mine with Japanese bearings, 10ga phase wires with XT150 connectors and ntc themistor. In other words they're plug and play for high power applications.
I've been putting 12kw bursts through mine on my raptor 140 test mule so far and after a 5 minute flog around the block the wiring and side covers were barely warm. Obviously they wont continue to stand up to this abuse over and over but it's a good sign.
As I posted previously will be racing it this weekend at an EV festival so will post the videos and details shortly.

Re: the cranksets, my pic was with a 222mm shock too which is on the shorter side, if you use longer one you'll only fit a smaller chain ring. I would thin a 42t would be no trouble in any case.
Either way you're probably best to get the zee crankset which only comes with a 36T, mount it up with your choice of shock and then measure for yourself what will fit.

 

[Mammalian04]

Thanks guys. I've ordered up a couple Shimano Zee cranksets with my local bike shop (spreading the love a little). I'll try that out for a while and maybe pick up a 42t to try later).

I am also going to pick up a couple sunrace 5 speed freewheels. Just need to figure out the derailleur and shifter. I'd like to do a grip shift but I don't think that will work with a twist throttle.

 

[Offroader]

guys, how much ground clearance do you want?
the pedal is still there. but if you talking about bottom bracket clearance 12/13" is all you need.
plz let me know what your doing with your raptors that you need more than every motocross or trialbike has. (310-330mm)

Just crossing a small wooden bridge may hit your chainring. Hopping over a log will also easily hit it. But these things aren't that easy cross, so if you don't plan on doing this then it probably doesn't matter that much.

 

[Mammalian04]

Offroader, from you pics, it looks like you are having more fun than any man should be allowed!
I can't wait to get my rig together!

Regarding chainnring, i ordered a couple sets of Shimano Zee cranksets. I'll experiment more later.

On a separate note, I just realized Qulbix got my accessory paint color wrong on one item. I better open up the other box to check that one!

 

[Offroader]

Where I'm located in NYC I am lucky because it has a lot of trails. Actually, I don't think there is a better place in NYC that has more trails and woods. I'm lucky in that if I had a gas dirt bike I would have to travel hours to use it, but by using my raptor I have access to miles of trails only a couple of miles from where I live. A lot of deep woods stuff also.

With my battery capacity my rides last for over two hours of almost non-stop riding.

I would like to add something like this to my bike that attaches to the steal frame and sits just below the chainring. This way I can ride over huge trees that have fallen. I've seen dirtbikes do this by rolling over the log but I wouldn't do it with my chainring exposed obviously.

I think something like this can be fabricated without much difficulty. I would have to figure out how to attach it to the frame safely.

 

[Merlin]

Offroader, whats about footpegs? did you really need to pedal?


[youtube]3Zw6hp7SFic[/youtube]

 

[Rix]

guys, how much ground clearance do you want?
the pedal is still there. but if you talking about bottom bracket clearance 12/13" is all you need.
plz let me know what your doing with your raptors that you need more than every motocross or trialbike has. (310-330mm)

Just crossing a small wooden bridge may hit your chainring. Hopping over a log will also easily hit it. But these things aren't that easy cross, so if you don't plan on doing this then it probably doesn't matter that much.

With you on this Offroader, not trying to discount Merlin's comment, but my bottom bracket height on the Fighter is now 13.5" with the smaller 2.75-18 wheel tire combo I am riding. In my opinion, this is on the edge of being low for the stuff I ride, an extra inch would be wonderful. But this is only because I hop over logs and rocks on every ride. I am now running 160mm crank arms and that has helped immensely. I was constantly kissing rocks and the ground if I my pedals weren't in the 3-o-clock/ 9-o-clock position. Now, not nearly as much. Going with what Merlin said, if I wasn't riding the terrain I am stuck with, 12-13 inches with the shorter cranks arms would be all I would need.

 

[Offroader]

Offroader, whats about footpegs? did you really need to pedal?

Yeah, I am really considering going footpegs. I think eventually I will get the 140 frame and do this as they have it setup for easy install.

It also looks like the footpeg braket may protect the bottom bracket as it sits lower.

Merlin, would you consider purchasing the 140 frame?

 

[Mammalian04]

I think a fill skid plates is the preferred option. I will look at the frame tonight but the foot peg mounts on the 140 might be an excellent mounting point for the skid plate to protect the chain ring. Maybe even an adjustable mounting plate and skid plate combo so maximum clearance could be maintained for different size chain rings... Similar to how adjustable rear sets (foot pegs) mount on a sport bike. There are multiple holes and you just bolt into the one that fits the height you need.

Should be easy to fab up for someone with the skill.

 

[Offroader]

Yeah I guess a skid plate is what it is called.

Actually looking at the raptor 140, the foot peg bracket looks to be square. Wouldn't this potentially get caught up on something that you're trying to roll over and not allow the bike to roll over it?

It may hang the bike up instantly and you will get thrown forward.

 

[ecruz]

This is what chainguards are for guys.

 

[Mammalian04]

This is what chainguards are for guys.

We're talking something to rock the bike over with full weight on it (dirt bike style).

 

[Rix]

This is what chainguards are for guys.

My specialize enduro had a bash gaurd on it. A couple of times I cased it on a log and it did its job, kept the chainring from bending. But I got ask, do you think a bash gaurd would be tough enough for 100 pound ebikes casing logs at 30mph? I really don't know as I haven't tried bashing logs with a chain gaurd yet.

 

[snellemin]

I've dragged my bike over fallen trees with the bashguard a few times. But I don't know either what the damage would be like hitting it at speed.

 

[ecruz]

Yeah I guess weight and speed of raptors could change that aspect a bit. Depends on how strong the chain guard design is. I have seen some that are heavy duty that might hold up.

 

[Mammalian04]

Posted up some photos in my build thread (see signature) but here is one for the 140 thread. Also, for those interested, I have some more moto peg photos in my build thread showing the mounting holes.

 

[Mammalian04]

Can someone recommend a good comfortable seat and post for the Raptor?

 

[Hyena]

Good to see your frames have arrived Mammalian!
I used a crank brothers seat post and a WTB saddle but really any old seat post will do and a saddle of your choosing.

Here's a few shots of me from the weekend getting in some track time on the Raptor 140 at an EV festival here in Australia.

oops, throttle was a bit sticky

 

[Kent]

So what is your take on the frame, suspension, handling, tires and brakes?

 

[marcn]

Posted up some photos in my build thread (see signature) but here is one for the 140 thread. Also, for those interested, I have some more moto peg photos in my build thread showing the mounting holes.

Like the colour combination!

 

[Mammalian04]

Thanks for the suggestion Jay.

Thanks for the props Marc, I am stoked. BTW, any update on the derailleur and shifter install? I see that your two shifter options are right hand twist. Are you using a thumb throttle or have you found a way to make both work?

 

[Hyena]

My opinion on anything other than the frame would be largely irrelevant to those looking to purchase one given the rest of the bike was build with components of my choosing. That said, if you're looking to replicate my particular bike, or the type I intend to assemble for others under my 'brand' (for lack of a better word) then read on!

The frame is solid. It's only new but there were no creaks or groans or anything untoward. I finished assembling it shortly after midnight on Friday and at 10am Saturday morning I was on a track racing it against proper motorcycles and other home made and commercially made ebikes. As an added testament to the frame, when I had an axle failure on my motor at 12kw (regen issue largely due to controller settings) the dropouts were so strong that I managed to complete the last lap of the race with the motor held to the frame with just one axle!! If that's not an endorsement for the frame strength and durability I don't know what is. Granted the dropouts did end up a little deformed as a result of this failure but considering there was enough torque going through it to snap a 14mm axle (there were no heavy landings or impacts as have caused many other axle failures) I think this is pretty good.

As for the handling, I jumped straight on it and rode it with the suspension tuned out of the box and it was fine. It's on the stiffer side where my previous bike was almost too plush but I like how it rides. Until I do some serious offroading I won't be able to comment properly on this and no doubt I'll end up doing some suspension tweeking. It's physically taller than the stealth fighter I just swapped for it but it's only noticable in my case because I'm on the shorter side and had the seat on my old fighter arguably too low (cut the post too short and never got around to fitting a new one). The brakes were shimano slx and were just OK even for circuit racing. For general riding they'd be much better however I plan to fit better brakes again, the new magura quad piston MT5s when they are available in a few weeks.
Tyres were schwalbe crazy bobs and for this sort of track surface were well suited. If you're only going to ride on the street they'd be suitable too but for offroading like most would intend to use these bikes they'd be a pretty poor choice.

As an aside, to the Aussies who ordered 140 frames: they have arrived on our shores and are currently in customs. Fingers crossed I can get them out to you by the end of the week!

 

[Rodney64]

Cool. Looking forward to it Jay. My saint brakes arrived yestersay and the DNM.

Still need to purchase some Shimano ice rotars.

 

[marcn]

Thanks for the suggestion Jay.

Thanks for the props Marc, I am stoked. BTW, any update on the derailleur and shifter install? I see that your two shifter options are right hand twist. Are you using a thumb throttle or have you found a way to make both work?

Hi Mammalian,

The only reason we have two derailleurs and two right hand shifters is for experimentation to see which works best with a 5 speed freewheel. I'll be using a left hand half twist throttle, as this is the combo I've used frequently and grown used to. I can say though we will be using the Shimano shifter because it's performs and feels better overall then the SRAM. The rest you'll have to wait for the next update The posts are a bit behind what the actual build is up to since editing and formatting is led by my brother and the team

 

[Offroader]

Just measured, still 150mm .
It shouldn't be an issue for anyone unless you're buying heavily cut down second hand forks. I cut nearly 2" off my new forks when I fitted them.

I think the issue is Marzocchi marks the Min mark on the stanchion way high for some reason. If you go by that then you will be over hanging the top stanchion with the crown by like 1-2mm.

When the fork compresses it goes no where near the recommended min mark (Its probably 15mm or more below the min mark) , so I'm just going to lower my crowns by a few mm even though it will go below the long MIN line.

I'm not sure why Marzocchi marks their forks so high, from what I found some say so you don't mess with the head tube angle. I called tech support and they say for tire clearance. I don't think anyone really knows for sure.

Does Fox mark their forks with a line?

In the picture below you can see a long line above the -MIN- mark. I will have to go below this line.