Hi John,
do you countersunk your spoke holes?
i'm guessing this decision will be based on the material the hub flange is made.
it's interesting to see how every hub vendor has a different pattern - some have both sides of every spoke hole countersunk - some only one side, etc....
the main reason for the counstersunk is to support the elbow so it dosn't rough up against the sharp edge.
If the bend sits against a square unchamfered edge of a drilled hole, the sharp square edge will work against the spoke and create a nick or fatigue point, which is usually where the spoke will break. The spoke head itself should sit on a flat surface not a countersunk hole.
i plan to do a 1c lace- with spoke heads facing the outside of the flange... putting countersinks on the inside of the flange will be tricky so i think i will avoid doing them. softening up the edges a bit on the inside could help but it's hard to get in there- i imagine for steel you would use a countersink drink and smooth the edges,but Aluminum flanges are softer than spokes, so the edges of non-countersunk holes will easily conform (shape) to the shape of the spoke
according to Roger_Musson from "The Professional Guide to Wheel Building"
"spoke holes will usually be countersunk to accomodate the elbow of the spoke
countersinking is not important consideration on aluminum flanges since the spokes will
bed themselves into the softer material regardless."
Edit: well looks like to drill the holes properly, i'll need a center punch, than a spotting drill bit,
i can get by with just the center punch as the indent made by it will be enough to avoid the 3/32 drill bit from walking- but i want this as accurate as possible. no one sells spot drill bits around here so ill have to waite again.
