Rear Hub Motor on a 142mm through axle : How ?

ideate said:
MadRhino said:
They are ideal for a hub motor, because making through axle bolt-on torque plates..

What are these torque plates you speak of? Sounds interesting..
Just make torque plates with 1/4 steel, with a hole matching the motor axle shape so it is a tight fit, and screw holes to fit the frame where the original bolt-on dropout was.

When you need to take off the wheel, you leave the torque plate on it and just unscrew the plates off the frame. Ideally, you think them well, to include whatever mounts that you will need such as: brake mount, chain tensioner or derailer mount, rack mount, mudguard mount, trailer mount, peg mount.... since they are only simple shape variations and drilling.
 
SamD in Australia can make these, ( Ballarat Bicycles )

https://ballaratebikes.com/

Not sure who makes them in North America/Canada ?




ideate said:
MadRhino said:
They are ideal for a hub motor, because making through axle bolt-on torque plates..

What are these torque plates you speak of? Sounds interesting..
 
Dumsterdave said:
Would it be ok to just cut dropouts? And then just slide the hub in and place a couple torque arms on?
what specifically does "just cut dropouts" mean?
 
amberwolf said:
Dumsterdave said:
Would it be ok to just cut dropouts? And then just slide the hub in and place a couple torque arms on?
what specifically does "just cut dropouts" mean?

Well, right now I have a thru axle. So... I have two round holes where I need to somehow insert my DD hub motor axle into. The only way I can get it in is to cut these circles open and slide the hub axle in. So, should I do this? Or will cutting the dropouts and using a couple torque arms be a bad solution?
 
That might work fine, as long as the torque arms are thick enough to handle the entire axle load, and are fixed well enoguh to prevent any rotation or movement.

Torque plates that bolt to the frame or dropouts would be better than just torque arms.

You can look thru the Torque Arm Picture Thread for potential solutions, if it helps.


If you dont' require a pedal chain, you could use the Grin All Axle hubmotor and not have to cut the frame.
 
I had thought about that on the current full suspension bike I have that has the thru-axle rear frame design.

However before I did that I found a cheep ( 10-11 year old full suspension frame ) that has dropouts that I put my DD hub motor on.

If you do not yet have the motor you can just buy a mid-drive for your thru-axle frame bike.

What Bike/frame and year and model of bike are you thinking about cutting slots into ?

another option is to have a machinest design and make two plates for you for each side of your thru-axle frame , the plates would bolt up to the frame using the round holes that now house the thru-axle , you would have a longer wheelbase and that is a good thing if you are going for faster than normal bike speeds. Have the plates made with mounting holes for the disc brake caliper on the brake side and for a derailleur hanger on the drive side.

Still the most simple thing to do is to get a mid-drive . ( on my thru-axle frame bike I have a mid drive , I like having both a mid-drive and cheaper older frame bike with a DD hub, which I use more for around town and flat ground riding and use the mid-drive for days when I am going up steep hills )
DD rear hubs and old bikes/frame fork combo's are a real cheep way to have a 2nd bike .




Dumsterdave said:
Well, right now I have a thru axle. So... I have two round holes where I need to somehow insert my DD hub motor axle into. The only way I can get it in is to cut these circles open and slide the hub axle in. So, should I do this? Or will cutting the dropouts and using a couple torque arms be a bad solution?
 
There is the Crystalyte hub motor I found through a french dealer:

https://ozo-electric.com/en/rear-wheel-hub-motor-kits/10788-thru-axle-motor-kit-for-mtb-12x142mm-and-12x148mm.html

The kit costs 769E.
 
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