Sabvoton SSC072150 no 5v readings "hall fault"
- Thread starter Pota
- Start date
Disconnect everything but hte controller and battery and retest.
If it still fails it's in the controller or wiring to controller.
If it now works it's one of the things hooked up to it causing too large a drain on the 5v, or shorting it out.
Some have a keyswitch or ignition wire that has to go ot the battery; check with your vendor/manufacturer for hookup instructions.
If it still fails it's in the controller or wiring to controller.
If it now works it's one of the things hooked up to it causing too large a drain on the 5v, or shorting it out.
Some have a keyswitch or ignition wire that has to go ot the battery; check with your vendor/manufacturer for hookup instructions.
That's entirely up to you, depending on your troubleshooting/repair skills and comfort with it, vs any warranties you might have.
Look around at all the many controller troubleshooting threads to see the difficulty levels involved.
But before you worry about any of that: what are the results of your testing as previously advised?
Look around at all the many controller troubleshooting threads to see the difficulty levels involved.
But before you worry about any of that: what are the results of your testing as previously advised?
docw009
1 MW
That's quite an expensive controller. I wouldn't open it if it has any warranty on it.
Pota said:
1) what caused the change? (If you don't tell us *everything* you test and change, as well as the results of each of those tests and changes, we can't know what else to tell you without just guessing, which is usually a waste of your time and ours).
2) If you get 5v from *all* wires, then something is still wrong, because the phase wires and ground wires should not have 5v on them. There are probably other wires that shouldn't, either, like the throttle signal input, etc.
You'd have to check with the vendor or manufacturer for a complete list.
How does it spin two directions at the same time?Pota said:
Or are you doing something that is causing it to spin one direction and then the other?
Or is it just doing it all by itself?
If you don't give details and exact steps, we can't know what might be causing the problem, because we can't know what the problem actually is.
amberwolf said:
The 5v is working on the right wires now. I just connected the E-Lock to the positive B+ then it started to work.
When i disconnect the USB from the pc, i can turn the throttle and the motor starts to spin.
When i press the reverse button it turns reverse when i turn the throttle. Very good, but it studders both reverse and forward. At some point it also wont spin when i turn the throttle.
When i connect the USB to the pc and controller and enter the Sabvoton program and try to do a Hall test i get the "Hall Fault" error.
But whats strange is that at one time during my test, the "Hall fault" error dissapeared and it actually did a "hall test" but with a failure code 4.
I was then told to switch one of the phase wires. And when i should retry the test i got the same "Hall Fault" error. And now i cant remove the "hall fault" error :S
Then it sounds like there is one of these things wrong:
--phase / hall wiring combination (combo) is wrong. Easy to fix, if you go thru the various combinations; see the ES wiki article or various ES threads on how to fix this. If the controller has a self-learn function, try that first.
--Connectors or wires for the halls have an intermittent (or no) contact somewhere between the halls inside the motor to the controller's PCB. Could be anywhere in there, but the most likely place is at the connectors where they plug into each other, and contacts where they crimp to the wires. Close inspection usually reveals these if they exist, but may require an ohmmeter or multimeter on continuity, with power off to bike.
--halls inside motor could actually be bad, can be tested with a volt meter while controller is connected and powered on, and hand-spinning the motor. See the various threads for controller/motor troubleshooting for the specifics and procedure (or ebikes.ca has troubleshooting documents too).
--phase / hall wiring combination (combo) is wrong. Easy to fix, if you go thru the various combinations; see the ES wiki article or various ES threads on how to fix this. If the controller has a self-learn function, try that first.
--Connectors or wires for the halls have an intermittent (or no) contact somewhere between the halls inside the motor to the controller's PCB. Could be anywhere in there, but the most likely place is at the connectors where they plug into each other, and contacts where they crimp to the wires. Close inspection usually reveals these if they exist, but may require an ohmmeter or multimeter on continuity, with power off to bike.
--halls inside motor could actually be bad, can be tested with a volt meter while controller is connected and powered on, and hand-spinning the motor. See the various threads for controller/motor troubleshooting for the specifics and procedure (or ebikes.ca has troubleshooting documents too).
amberwolf said:
Hey Amber
I did check the halls, they where all fine. Varying from 0 to 5v. All three.
I also did all the 36 combinations with phase and hall wires. and still no luck. I find that very strange.
Its also very strange that with the stock phase/hall combination, it actually did a "hall test" and the "hall fault" went away. But it came back when i disconnected the powersupply and tried again :S
What other options do i have?
None that I can think of, other than trying a different controller.
Either the one you have is setup or programmed wrong (in what way, I don't know), or it is defective in some way.
I'd recommend checking with the vendor or manufacturer to see what they say.
Either the one you have is setup or programmed wrong (in what way, I don't know), or it is defective in some way.
I'd recommend checking with the vendor or manufacturer to see what they say.
I don't know; if it's not in the manual (assuming it has one either from the vendor or the manufacturer) then you'd have to check with the vendor or manufacturer for what the codes mean, and what steps to perform to correct the problem they indicate.
(unless someone else has had the same problem and posted their results on ES, which should be findable with a search on
sabvoton hall
or similar.)
(unless someone else has had the same problem and posted their results on ES, which should be findable with a search on
sabvoton hall
or similar.)
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