Short error

I have done that and found nothing. Interestingly I emailed the manufacturer about the issue, they said that the motor is pulling more than the controllers rated current on startup so it cuts the motor. Surely this cannot be right? I would have thought that the controller limits current in such a way that it doesn't have to stall the motor every time I want to go from a standstill. So if I believe what they are saying I need a higher power controller to run at 20a because it wants to use more from a standing start
 
You are correct. Pretty much any motor will try to pull more than the rated amps anytime it starts from a dead stop. The controller is supposed to limit the current to a level that protects everything.

I think maybe what they are trying to say is the controller design is crappy and it may be the controller causing the problem. A new controller in that power range is pretty inexpensive. It may be worth getting a new one.
 
fechter said:
You are correct. Pretty much any motor will try to pull more than the rated amps anytime it starts from a dead stop. The controller is supposed to limit the current to a level that protects everything.

I think maybe what they are trying to say is the controller design is crappy and it may be the controller causing the problem. A new controller in that power range is pretty inexpensive. It may be worth getting a new one.

Given KT controllers reputation as a solid budget choice I'm surprised if that's the case unless it's a mismatch of parts. Given that this motor is supplied on a UK legal bike I doubt it's overpowered for the controller although it is a pretty fast wind at 27mph no load. I may try the larger 25a one as that's a common choice for some of the bigger motor kits with high speeds
 
fechter said:
You are correct. Pretty much any motor will try to pull more than the rated amps anytime it starts from a dead stop. The controller is supposed to limit the current to a level that protects everything.

I think maybe what they are trying to say is the controller design is crappy and it may be the controller causing the problem. A new controller in that power range is pretty inexpensive. It may be worth getting a new one.

Well turns out the controller was at fault most likely as it has now blown, replacement is on its way. I am also replacing the motor wire to rule out any connection issues but I'm pretty sure a MOSFET is blown. Inside the controller it looks like there has been a short near the shunt too as there are some suspicious dark patches and some insulation is missing from one of the caps
 
fechter said:
Post pictures!

It's already in the bin. While waiting for a proper controller from China I got a cheap brainpower one from Amazon and a new motor cable to rule out any problems there. Everything is working now, it's very basic but at least it's running. Just need to wait for my replacement KT so I can have my display and lights back. I have also readded connectors for easy swaps if anything happens again, I soldered after crimping for added durability
 
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