spoke and erd question

[lowbudget]

I have gotten a wheel back from being laced and since they wrecked the rim I gave them, it was replaced with an entirely different style of rim. The new rim has an erd that is 20mm smaller than the old, meaning the recommended spokes for it are around 10mm shorter than the old. does it matter if the longer spokes were used? 10mm seems like quite a bit yet the spokes are well down in the nipples. I would think a spoke that much too long would be flush or poking out of the nipple. Am I worried for nothing?

 

[lowbudget]

So I got the wheel back, and it is an entirely different style. It is disc only rather than rim brake style I had. It has garish graphics, and sticks out like a stripper in church. It has a 20mm smaller erd, so spokes are 10mm longer than recommended. I don,t know if that is a problem, but I wouldn,t be suprised.

 

[markz]

You should have spokes that are the correct size, I'd guess no more then 2mm longer or shorter.
You want all the threads of the spoke, engaged in the nipple for optimal performance.
Otherwise you will get breakages which is no good.
Its wise to use brand name spokes, such as Sapim and its even better to use a double butted spoke that is 13guage on one side and 14 guage on the other. You do not want the spokes to large, like a 10G, but perhaps a 12G is alright. Say in my case, 375lb rider with a hub motor. You can read about my escapades with my one kit, breaking spokes, just do a search. I'm going to mid drive now.


http://www.sheldonbrown.com/wheelbuild.html

http://www.kstoerz.com/freespoke/tech-threadengagement.php

 

[docw009]

I don't see how they could use spokes that are 1 cm too long unless they cut and rethreaded them..

Sure, if it's a double wall rim, extra length will just be inside the rim and away from the inner tube liner, but how did they get the nipples to thread down another cm. There isn't enough thread.

They would have had to rethread each spoke, and maybe cut them too. Were they 14mm spokes? I think bike shops have threading tools for 14mm spokes, but maybe not for 13 mm or 12 mm.

Well another possibility is that they went to some double crossing pattern for lacing, which uses up the extra length. I have no experience there. I've laced my own wheels and always used the single cross pattern.

 

[markz]

docw009 could be totally right there. Though, I have found in a metro city like Calgary of 1.2M people, only 2 places have the capability of cutting and rethreading spokes. Bow Cycle in Bowness and Power in Motion in Eau Claire mall. However it is totally possible they had the capability of buying a $50 thread reamer and the $100 stock jig or built their own jig. A 2x pattern would still be off by a little bit, but the nipple angle would be greater. I was going to investigate on Grins Spoke Calculator but my Firefox browser is acting up.

 

[d8veh]

Maybe they bought some new spokes when they bought the rim.

 

[lowbudget]

They used the same spokes 167mm sapim, 14/13 butted from Justin. I ordered 40, and got back 6, another mystery, unless Grin threw in 2 extra. The spokes are not even close to being flush but are well down in the nipple. The new rim requires 158mm spokes. I guess I better take one out and see for sure whats going on.

 

[speedmd]

You want the spoke ends to be into the fat end of the nipple or you will have a less than fully strong spoke connection. Somewhere in or very close to the screw driver slot is ideal. You will end up with nipple failure (nipples pulling apart) before you get into spoke failure if your spoke ends in the thin barrel section of the nipple. Shortening spokes is a common thing for a good wheel builder in a pinch and no issue if you have the right thread rolling tools and don't get into the thinning section of butted spokes. I would pull one out to make sure you have sufficient thread engagement given the situation.

 

[lowbudget]

Well the spokes are were definetly replaced, they are not the tapered sapims I got from Justin. He put some in the bag from Grin thinking I wouldn,t look further I guess. I don,t know what brand they are, but they aren,t sapim. The butted end is short and not tapered, probably cheap ones. Might be ok, but I have no way of being sure of their quality. I have been hosed yet again.