your motor can only take on so many amps. its about Volts not amp. more volts more power and i think they go faster than most cause theres is lipo battery which has more umph my Eglide use's sla batterys on 36 volts and max speed is 18 but i put lipos in recently i get to about 23mph
stuff
- Thread starter Hummina Shadeeba
- Start date
psychotiller
10 kW
Pretty sure they are using LifePo and 23mph isnt fast...
hey i have a fiik board and eglide and i looked at all premades they go the same speed unless you use lipo batteries. unless you go with skatetek theres goes 29Mph. which blows evo boards out of the water but i would not want to ride or carry a 75Lb tank around. which i do with my E-Glide which is 70Lb Sucks... in my opinion. make a custom and be happy with your skill limit
Rosco
1 mW
Yeah I think it's part of the design to limit the premade boards so you don't have riders with little to no experience on skateboards flying down hills into traffic...
Watts= Volts x Amps (but Watts doesn't exactly equal how much power you have, it's more of a guide to more complex maths to work it out. Pediglide or Torqueboards are smart enough to do the math I think
Watts= Volts x Amps (but Watts doesn't exactly equal how much power you have, it's more of a guide to more complex maths to work it out. Pediglide or Torqueboards are smart enough to do the math I think
liveforphysics
100 TW
saming said:
Volts generate none of the effects you're looking for in your motor. Motor phase current varies directly with torque generated until motor core saturation. Almost all of your pack voltage just goes into overcoming the motors own BEMF so it can continue to drive current to make torque as rpms increase.
Hummina Shadeeba
1 MW
Ok. Isn't there a guide to electricity through the hobby/lipo perspective. I'm finding your knowledge confusing and I don't know what much of what you are talking about is. Is there a good book out there that explains from the practical perspective? I'm not looking for dry physics so much as an if-you-do-this you go faster, hands on guide. The science is fascinating but I'm stuttering around with constant questions instead of finding a good thorough guide.
I recently discovered lipo like to run warm, above 70f, but never above 150f. I think that's important but I had to dig for it..and then it would tell me why this is the case
I recently discovered lipo like to run warm, above 70f, but never above 150f. I think that's important but I had to dig for it..and then it would tell me why this is the case
torqueboards
1 MW
Hummina Shadeeba said:
Read up more on RC stuff. That's what I did when I was first starting. Helps to get more info - if you want to learn more in depth.
liveforphysics
100 TW
A motor spins because of magnetic fields. Only current makes the magnetic field. Voltage is just the needed potential difference to make current flow.
Your battery performs better warm due to higher ionic mobility due to the rate things are vibrating in your battery increasing with temp.
Your battery performs better warm due to higher ionic mobility due to the rate things are vibrating in your battery increasing with temp.
That being said, a 700W motor can go just as fast as a 2000W motor if they take the same input voltages and have the same kv (ignoring the difference in efficiency is justified IMO).
A condition is the load, if the load gets higher, a 700W won't be able to pull it off. For our application, riding at constant speed won't require more than 700W ever, which means a 700W motor can pull it off.
The difference will be in the amount of amps drawn from the pack, simply put: acceleration.
A condition is the load, if the load gets higher, a 700W won't be able to pull it off. For our application, riding at constant speed won't require more than 700W ever, which means a 700W motor can pull it off.
The difference will be in the amount of amps drawn from the pack, simply put: acceleration.
Hummina Shadeeba
1 MW
I have two questions:
Will I want some bigger connectors for 8s than standard (4mm bullet?) for the ecs, motor, and between battery connections?
I read below that 6.5 would be better. Or it's not a volt thing but an amp thing..but maybe I should do it anyway?
I opened up a 2s battery and found I can seperatr the two cells but leave all then connections in place. I plan to run it that way after taping it up because it's slimmer and now I'm thinking I could I do the same with a 3s pack. I'm seeing there's only one set of colored wires coming out, I guess that's solely for balancing when charging. With big packs is it a problem keeping things balances or should I not worry since my Icharger says it can do 8s?
Will I want some bigger connectors for 8s than standard (4mm bullet?) for the ecs, motor, and between battery connections?
I read below that 6.5 would be better. Or it's not a volt thing but an amp thing..but maybe I should do it anyway?
I opened up a 2s battery and found I can seperatr the two cells but leave all then connections in place. I plan to run it that way after taping it up because it's slimmer and now I'm thinking I could I do the same with a 3s pack. I'm seeing there's only one set of colored wires coming out, I guess that's solely for balancing when charging. With big packs is it a problem keeping things balances or should I not worry since my Icharger says it can do 8s?
torqueboards
1 MW
Hummina Shadeeba said:
4mm bullet connectors have a max amps of 80amps. Usually, they are able to run more then 80amps as well. I wouldn't bother and would keep the standard 4mm. It's probably not that serious. I wouldn't play with the balance connectors or you'll end up having to rewire them. You need those balance connectors to balance through from the lipo chargers.
All batteries will have a slight unbalance when used. By charging in balance mode it should rebalance them. You can also connect in parallel and wait about 5-10 seconds and it should transfer and balance packs to an equal voltage between all the packs connected.
Hummina Shadeeba
1 MW
Why do I want a 300amp switch if I'm not going to be near there? Got two.
torqueboards
1 MW
Hummina Shadeeba said:
You can get the Xscorpion 150 amp if you wanted. There roughly the same price so why not go with the higher?
Hummina Shadeeba
1 MW
torqueboards said:
I don't even understand how it works since it's sold as a fuse really and not a switch. Maybe 120 would
Be more appropriate since then I couldn't ruin my 120esc? The 300 is bigger I imagine. I'm trying to get everything to fit. But I'm happy just to be thinking about the possibilities and appreciate your guidance really. So why not the 120? Or 150? Then maybe it would really act as a fuse? Shouldn't I be putting a fuse in there anyway. But then I don't know what I'm talking about and just remember something on here about it
Hummina Shadeeba
1 MW
drmacgyver said:
My esc doesn't have a switch. Alien 120amp 8s. What to do? Tourque was using/suggesting a curcuit breaker but they're so big. And I don't understand what they're about
torqueboards
1 MW
Hummina Shadeeba said:
You need a switch or an on/off button capable of turning off 120-150 amps of current to be safe. You can either choose to use a simple EC5 or XT90 with a loop but then you have an extra loop piece dangling and/or separate from your board when there is no power to your system or you can use a circuit breaker switch for an on/off switch or you can simply just disconnect your batteries. Those are one of your three options for an on/off switch.
Hummina Shadeeba
1 MW
torqueboards said:
Ok thanks. So 120 should be safe enough...and by safe I guess meaning the batteries will be unlikely to put out 120 amps so the board will still go. And the esc, being 120, doesn't want more than 120 going to it anyway I guess.. Or is the esc's 120 rating meaning that's the max that it can put to a motor, and it will typically have a battery attached that has at least that potential?
How does it do away with the need for a shock supressor thing? Couldn't any switch that was stout enough do...since I'm not anticipating needing the breaker action
torqueboards
1 MW
Hummina Shadeeba said:
Batteries can push more current depending on the configuration. I believe, the 120 amps is the continuous and there is a bit of a max amp. Not sure, what you mean by shock suppressor and not any switch can do it. Your pretty much stuck with either an EC5/XT90 loop or a 150/300amp circuit breaker switch.
Unless you do like the production boards and limit max amps to about 40-50 amps, increase voltage and BMS and build your own switch...
Hummina Shadeeba
1 MW
torqueboards said:
I meant the little wire ur supposed to connect first to the batteries n esc to.. Catch a spark or something
Thanks for all the info. I'll go with the switch.
torqueboards
1 MW
That is the anti-spark switch. It should be in between your negative/ground main wire from battery to esc. You simply connect the small wire first and then plug in your big wires. The small wire will eat the spark.
Hummina Shadeeba
1 MW
Do u get involuntary turning with an accelerating or braking single?
What speeds and hill ability do u have with double 50ish on 6s?
What speeds and hill ability do u have with double 50ish on 6s?
torqueboards
1 MW
I like dual diagonal a ton. I've tried single it's decent works alright but if I'd say if your route is mostly hills -- dual works wonders. I ran dual 63mm but it's a bit overkill and adds to the weight of the board. 50mm can handle almost anything I need.
Hummina Shadeeba
1 MW
And if ur running a double I imagine each motor gets half?
Trying to figure what's the smallest motor that can handle enough amps to do 26 and hills. Or more so what pair of little ones would have just enough amp ability to do all I want and not melt. I see max amp ratings and don't know if there enough or if their numbers are even legit?
Trying to figure what's the smallest motor that can handle enough amps to do 26 and hills. Or more so what pair of little ones would have just enough amp ability to do all I want and not melt. I see max amp ratings and don't know if there enough or if their numbers are even legit?
