Sur-Ron - New Mid drive Bike

skyungjae said:
Wow. I'm going to get the same tires when my OEMs start wearing low.

Did your top speed in sport drop at all?

Did your mileage get better or worse?

Did you get your plate?

It's hard to tell. Since the wheel is bigger, the speedometer will read lower for the same speed. Downhill or with a tail wind the motor tops out at the same RPM as it did before but the bike will be going slightly faster. I don't think it makes a huge difference. Like equal to 1 or 2 teeth different on the rear sprocket.

The mileage indicated by the display will be less since the odometer will be off and the motor can draw a bit more current at top speed. I need to carry my GPS on the bike to see how much it affected the speed reading. I suppose I could also measure the circumference and compare it to the stock tire.

For street use, the high gearing works out OK. For off road, a larger rear sprocket would be good. Most of the streets around my area other than the freeway have a 35mph or less speed limit. I can easily keep up with cars on these streets, and they all speed.

I'll also say this thing is a real head-turner. When I'm passing by, people look at me with that WTF? look on their face. I think part of it is the noise it makes.
 
I don't understand why some of you like complicating their lives so much. From what I know, SUR-RON stopped producing the old model, and you can see it already by simply checking their official stores: the normal version got removed and there is now just the Model X, also in the new colors. For only 130€ more, there was just no point in keeping produce the old version. So just wait the next batch of bikes and you'll be fine.
 
racingame said:
I don't understand why some of you like complicating their lives so much. From what I know, SUR-RON stopped producing the old model, and you can see it already by simply checking their official stores: the normal version got removed and there is now just the Model X, also in the new colors. For only 130€ more, there was just no point in keeping produce the old version. So just wait the next batch of bikes and you'll be fine.

Agreed, I didn't see any reason for them to produce the old model. They already have a new supplier for their suspension components, probably cheaper stuff to be honest from DNM.

For the controller, it probably doesn't cost them any extra money for the Sine Wave controller, if it did we are talking about like $10 dollar price difference if that.

While the DNM rear shock is probably not as good as the rear shock you guys are using now, we may be able to get different weighted springs to fine tune the suspension from DNM. This makes a pretty huge difference in handling having the proper spring and I am really surprised nobody has even discussed it here.

Maybe some of you can put a rubber band around the rear shock shaft to see just how much travel you are getting.
 
Offroader said:
For the controller, it probably doesn't cost them any extra money for the Sine Wave controller, if it did we are talking about like $10 dollar price difference if that.

While the price of the electronic components which make the controllers shouldn't be too much different, they of course have to charge you the cost for R&D that it involved. The cost to buy a normal square controller from SUR-RON is about 160$, but last time I asked them, they wanted 120$ more to fit the sine-wave controller instead of it, so I guess the cost for distributors lies around 280$ for the X controller. At the moment, being still something new, everyone is trying to get the most out of it (sale price 500$), but over time the price will most likely lower when the old controller gets eventually abandoned.
 
After several great rides, the first defect has now occurred.
The battery percent indicator is dead. The last time it was turned on it was a bit pixelated to see how much% of the battery had (see picture), but now nothing comes.
Have tried all the tricks - everything off, cable off, press the button on the battery for a long time, wait overnight, load, drive - but it shows nothing more.

I have contacted the seller (from Bolzano) and I am curious how it goes.


Display Pixelfehler.jpg
View attachment 1
 
derb said:
After several great rides, the first defect has now occurred.

Any chance it got wet? There was another report of a display problem after water ingress.

You won't be able to ship a lithium battery, so your only hope is to replace the display unit, which means taking the top of the pack off. There are some pictures of one taken apart. It doesn't look too bad.

Another option would be to use an independent Ahr meter. This would require installing a shunt somewhere.
 
fechter said:
I finally got my new tires and mounted them. Since I'm going to be doing most of my riding on pavement, I wanted something a little more sticky than dirt knobbies.

On the front, I got a Shinko SR241 in 2.75 - 19. This barely fits and has about 3mm of clearance to the fork. I measured the section width at 3.15", so the Shinko is significantly wider than the stated size.

On the rear, I got a Duro HF307 in 3.25 - 19. This was the only tire I could find with a dual sport tread in that size. It fits with plenty of clearance to the chain and kick stand bolt. If they made a 3.50 - 19, it would probably fit OK. It is nearly an inch taller than the stock tire, so gives a slight gear increase. For street use, the stock gearing works out pretty well.

I'll also mention that riding in Sport mode, going fast most of the time, I estimate the battery range to be around 30 miles, maybe a little less. Going slow (under 25mph), it should have no problems doing 40 miles.


Here's the front Shinko:

Img_0905A.jpg

Here's sort of a side-by-side comparison of the rear:

Duro vs Stock.jpg

They look great and handling is good.

Img_0913A.jpg

Img_0910A.jpg
Very nice Fetch, the shinkos always come in bigger than their advertized sizing. Get it off road yet?
 
Rix said:
Very nice Fetch, the shinkos always come in bigger than their advertized sizing. Get it off road yet?

It's almost as wide as the Duro 3.25-19 so might work fine to just use them on both front and rear.

No, I haven't had them off road enough to tell how they work. Based on previous experience, they should be great for the hard, rocky kind of stuff I generally have around here.

For sure much better than the stock knobbies on pavement. Much quieter and I don't fear tight corners.
 
While out riding today, I discovered the Light Bee has a wicked launch mode :twisted:
If you put it in Sport Mode, hold the brake, give full throttle, then release the brake, it does a full current launch that made me do an unintentional wheelie. It takes off way harder than the normal throttle ramp up. If you lean forward enough, you can keep it from going over, at least with the stock gearing.

I'm still getting the suspension dialed in, but it definitely has nimble handling on twisty pavement roads.
 
fechter said:
While out riding today, I discovered the Light Bee has a wicked launch mode :twisted:
If you put it in Sport Mode, hold the brake, give full throttle, then release the brake, it does a full current launch that made me do an unintentional wheelie. It takes off way harder than the normal throttle ramp up. If you lean forward enough, you can keep it from going over, at least with the stock gearing.

I'm still getting the suspension dialed in, but it definitely has nimble handling on twisty pavement roads.

Haha, this is true for most brake sensored bikes. "Launch mode" is also called "f*** up my drivetrain mode". :lol:
 
fechter said:
While out riding today, I discovered the Light Bee has a wicked launch mode :twisted:
If you put it in Sport Mode, hold the brake, give full throttle, then release the brake, it does a full current launch that made me do an unintentional wheelie. It takes off way harder than the normal throttle ramp up. If you lean forward enough, you can keep it from going over, at least with the stock gearing.

Rodney64 wrote: ↑It normally happens to someone that's new to riding ebikes. Trying to explain to a newbie not to hold the brake when twisting the throttle is the difficult part. Especially when they release the brake.
 
One thing I noticed when changing the tires is the rims and stock tire beads are coated with some kind of lubricant like silicone oil. It makes changing the tires very easy, but could contribute to spinning the rims out at low tire pressures. If you want to run lower pressures, it might be a good idea to clean the lube off with alcohol and maybe lightly sand the inside of the rim where the tire makes contact.

It would be fairly easy to do this by just letting all the air out of the tire and pushing the bead over to clean the surfaces that make contact, then reinflate the tire. No need to remove the wheel. There is probably some kind of sticky stuff you could put in there too.

I'd look pretty stupid doing a "launch" and flatting the tire.
 
One of the most sticky thing I can come to think of is the paste the handball players use. Once I was watching an indoor motorcycle stunt show and they actually coated the entire length of the track with handball paste to ensure maximum tire grip. Should work well to keep the tire bead locked in place.

tCZi5bO.jpg
 
I find the horn quite annoying as I sometimes hit it by misstake on the trail. Not exactly what you want to do when trying to keep a low profile amongst the MTB crowd. Did anyone disable the horn? How did you go about it in that case?
 
You can cut the red/black wires from the control switch on the connector under the key plate. The white/green are for sport on/off(ep).
 
My CA plate arrived and is now on the bike. :D
$22 (I sent $25) and the registration shows vehicle type as MOPED.
I took about 3 weeks from the time I sent it in.
 
lightbeer81 said:
I find the horn quite annoying as I sometimes hit it by misstake on the trail. Not exactly what you want to do when trying to keep a low profile amongst the MTB crowd. Did anyone disable the horn? How did you go about it in that case?

my suggestion: dont cut any wires. there are 2 wires on back of the horn, simply unplug it (preferably the ground). that way you always reconnect it in seconds.
 
Berd said:
My CA plate arrived and is now on the bike. :D
$22 (I sent $25) and the registration shows vehicle type as MOPED.
I took about 3 weeks from the time I sent it in.

On mine, I also noticed the make was listed as "SURRO". I don't think their system likes dashes or spaces in the names. When applying it might be better to use "SURRON" and "LIGHTBEE" for make and model, though mine went through with the dashes and spaces.
 
Selling my green SurRon. https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=96733

Now that I own an Alta EXR, I don't ride the SurRon anymore.
 

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Rix said:
Selling my green SurRon. https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=96733

Now that I own an Alta EXR, I don't ride the SurRon anymore.

WOW! How does the range compare to the Sur-Ron?
 
Rix said:
Selling my green SurRon. https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=96733

Now that I own an Alta EXR, I don't ride the SurRon anymore.

Excellent! When is the ride report coming?

Tom
 
3DTOPO said:
Rix said:
Selling my green SurRon. https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=96733

Now that I own an Alta EXR, I don't ride the SurRon anymore.

WOW! How does the range compare to the Sur-Ron?

I rode 2 weekends ago on super tight and hilly stuff that I couldn't climb with my SurRon. I went 19 miles and had half the battery left. Last Sunday I did a dual sport ride of mostly pavement and sand washes. Put 38 miles on it. My pavement speeds were between 40 and 50MPH. Another ride I ran it on Highway 50 flat out at 76MPH indicated, battery was almost dead in 25 miles.
 
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