Surly Big Dummy/HS3525 problems

R

Ryank

10 mW
Joined
May 16, 2011
Messages
22
........may I please ask for assistance (this thread seems semi-approprite?)

I am assembling my Surly Big Dummy with the following: Clyte HT3525, 72V Clyte motor controller, Headway 16AH pack (two 36V in series)...GOOD STUFF!

Anyways, got it all set up, and the wheel did spin for just one moment. I went to go get the wife and kids to show em, but it did not run again........(?) The wifey laughed her arrs off(!)

The DMM says both Headway packs are kick'n out 40 Volts, and the light comes on on the contorller. I seem to have good connections all round..... no smoke, flame, pop'd fuses, or explosions....... and I'm at a bit of a loss as to what to check of next....?

Do you have any suggestions as to what to check next?
 
I moved your post to it's own thread out of the "HS3540 burnt up already?!?!" thread it was in, as it is unlikely to get troubleshooting help buried in someone else's review thread. ;)
 
I hope you had the nuts good and tight. Any chance the axle slipped and cut the wires? You wouldn't be the first.

Far more likely, is that a connector has slipped back in the housing, and barely made contact. Check all the plugs, and make sure all the contacts are fully engaged in the housing and unable to back out.
 
When I first built my ebike, I did not properly seat the pins in the Anderson connectors and it took me a while to figure out why the motor would sometimes cut out.
 
jimw1960 said:
When I first built my ebike, I did not properly seat the pins in the Anderson connectors and it took me a while to figure out why the motor would sometimes cut out.
Click to expand...

Ditto^^, but I had problems with my throttle connector pin backing out and giving intermittent power loss.
 
.....thanks gents! Good ideas.

I get a solid 80.4V at the battery side of the andersons....

I'm confident that the anderson connectors were up and running only due to the fact that the lil red light comes on immediately when I connect em, and that was what I got when I did get the wheel to spin the first time yesterday (it was elevated up off the ground)-just before it stopped spinning....

I used the DMM to check the circut on the throttle connection, and it beeped nice and strong..
 
It's spinning!! must ride.... will be back! (dont know what happened to get it going)
 
............I wrapped the motor cord! Not alot, but enough to cause the motor to spudder and not spin any longer. (sigh) Still no ride on it.

So embarassing to admit-especially here-especially my first few posts too!

But it is a good reminder for all...check the axles for tightness... I thought I cranked mine down alot, but the bottom line is that it was not enough. This motor/hub thing is a whole different amount of torque......

Any recomendations for the best torque arms? I'll be ordering at least two (72V, my very large frame, and the heavy bike.... crushing combo I imagine)

Im reallynot sure if this was the original problem, but -quite frankly- I was totally surprized by this latest incient so I am going to stop assuming anything at this point.

The hub motor wire outter sheath was torn right at the base, and the inner wires were stressed just a bit. I can see just the slightest bit of inner wire on one or two of the wires.......I'll try to attach photos.. What now?
 

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dogman said:
Any chance the axle slipped and cut the wires?
Click to expand...

Dogman is a pychic :shock:
 
IMG_1547 gehtto axle arm-other side.jpgA little "Liquid electrical tape" over those exposed inner strands, and some GEHTTO axle torque arms, and I was doing my first rides TODAY!!!

IMG_1546 gehtto axle torque arm.jpg

.....and for the other side?


My first rides today were solid 25MPH'ers with a couple 31MPH highs too! (all way too fast for this unsuspended rig-and my comfort zone)!

Quite alot of fun!!
 
So I believe that the bottom line for this thread/post (intermitent power) was caused by the unsecured axle bolts-followed by a slight twisting of the motor control wire around part of the axle, the stressed motor controller wires were shorting out when they made contact wiht the axile..
 
Hi Ryank,

I am having the exact same problem as you, I have been putting an HS35 on a Yuba Mundo, I did have good torque arms on, but because the axle slots are so damn wide on the Yuba (to take a BMX axle eg), there is nothing but the torque arms holding the axle in place. So what happened to me was, attached torque arms, tightned like crazy, when testing with wheel under no load all good. Got on bike for test ride, 5 metres later it stops. What the? look down and my torque arm (an Amped Bikes) is still in place, but the axle has spun, hows that? it was simply that the axle span inside and warped the torque arm. As I said it is because on most bikes, the torque arm is assisted by the dropouts in holding it in. But on these bikes it is literally just the torque arm alone (as the drop outs are 14mm wide). So you have to have perfect torque arms.

Kiwi has developed these for the Yuba (see this thread)

http://www.endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=26413&hilit=yuba+mundo

I don't know what the dop outs on the Big Dummy are like. But Kiwi is such a top bloke, he has kindly sent me a pair to test on my new Yuba (V4), he will be making them available for sale. As I said, maybe the Dummy has different drop outs, but you get the point of what is required. When you have such fat drop outs you need perfect and very strong torque arms.

Torque arms are the bain of my ebike existence....

EDIT: sorry, i just read the thread properly and your post, is that the rear drop out? obviously given it has the freewheel on one side, but that looks strange for a rear drop out, looks confusing in the photo.
 
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