After years of tinkering and swapping parts I feel I have finally got a bike that easily fits my needs and wants. I guess allot of people get here and it almost feels disappointing in a way. Initially I was on a budget so made a bike to fit my wallet and needs but now I have spare cash I have fulfilled some wants too.
Its a cellman supplied 10t mac motor with 40a infineon controller and 50v amp20 20ah cells. I dont need all those volts but the pack is such a big capacity and felt like a good option in lifepo4. I get 80 miles range at 12mph about 50 miles at 19mph and around 35-40 miles at 30mph (tested in the dead of night so I dont get my car licence taken away). The motor barely gets warm to the touch at night even after 30 miles flat out non stop. The front wheel lifts at low speeds so be careful on corners as it takes a moment to realise your not in contact with the ground.
Anyway heres a few highlights that might help future builders.
Shifting while trying to keep a constant throttle speed is a pain and most levers wont reach past the throttle at all. I took my gear indicator displays off with two screws and placed them both on the left hand side with one upside down. Brings back memories of thumby's lol.
The rear caliper clearance is only 15mm so I put a 205mm disc on and spaced the caliper up with washers to clear the hub.
I found some very cheap 22mm clamps to attach mirrors and led lamps. The lamps are just skyray type flashlights with the button unscrewed to install a bolt. The driver is housed in my front bags top pocket along with a dc converter. 2000 lumens is great for night time off roading or tracks.
A liitle motion alarm for when I am in the shops.The battery is very secure after being mounted on a perspex plate, stuck to it with glazing silicone and then whipped on with twine. Its also supported by a couple of brackets made for exhausts and hoses.
I used a 31.8mm seat clamp with a piece of 31.75mm tube at 1.63mm thickness to house an atv ignition switch from ebay. Drilled a hole in it for the wire, then slotted the rest to make an expansion joint to grip the top of my headset. Once you have torqued down your headset and set the allen bolts tight the top hat can be removed and replaced with your ignition key setup.
The led lamp runs off a dc-dc buck converter from 50v down to 4v. Then into the original driver so I have three modes. QS-4805CBAN-90W is the dc-dc bucker.
Im just over 6Feet tall and a very lean 13stone so the battery just fits between my legs. Adding any sort of cover may cause friction or add too much width but I never go out in the pouring rain anyway. The battery is also sealed to some degree with shrink wrap and added silicone.
Here is my ladies bike. She got jealous of my "bouncy bike" and kept coming home with sore wrists etc etc. Hers is just 24v 500w conhis with 20ah ping. She used to get 50 miles out of it but now its down to around 43 due to weight and the extra 8 inches of power robbing comfort. I carry a 12v 20ah lifepo4 unit and an rc charger to give her a boost when we get lunch. Im gutted I couldnt get the mac motor on the pink one as it is a smooth beast. Stupid 12mm axles and 30mm drop out widths.
My only real annoyance is the dnp 9 speed freewheel felt very loose after a few hard rides. Like I bent something. You could grab the cogs and they would all rattle by 2mm side to side. Eventually after about 1-2000 miles it started clonking badly and replaced it with the spare I had bought. My advice BUY A SPARE LOL.
On my journey I now think dd hubs are very efficient but very restrictive over your rpm/speed. They feel like they resist my legs most of the time if im not matching throttle input exactly right. They are fine for my mrs as she is happy to let the motor be one step ahead of her legs but I like to be the reverse.
I think headways suck as I only ever seemed to get 8ah's out of 10ah cells from differing sources and all discharged at differing rates making balancing a pain. When I say I got 8ah I mean they took 8ahs on charging. Due to losses when discharging I expect it was actually less. In hindsight I think 36v amp20 pack would have done me.
Its a cellman supplied 10t mac motor with 40a infineon controller and 50v amp20 20ah cells. I dont need all those volts but the pack is such a big capacity and felt like a good option in lifepo4. I get 80 miles range at 12mph about 50 miles at 19mph and around 35-40 miles at 30mph (tested in the dead of night so I dont get my car licence taken away). The motor barely gets warm to the touch at night even after 30 miles flat out non stop. The front wheel lifts at low speeds so be careful on corners as it takes a moment to realise your not in contact with the ground.
Anyway heres a few highlights that might help future builders.
Shifting while trying to keep a constant throttle speed is a pain and most levers wont reach past the throttle at all. I took my gear indicator displays off with two screws and placed them both on the left hand side with one upside down. Brings back memories of thumby's lol.
The rear caliper clearance is only 15mm so I put a 205mm disc on and spaced the caliper up with washers to clear the hub.
I found some very cheap 22mm clamps to attach mirrors and led lamps. The lamps are just skyray type flashlights with the button unscrewed to install a bolt. The driver is housed in my front bags top pocket along with a dc converter. 2000 lumens is great for night time off roading or tracks.
A liitle motion alarm for when I am in the shops.The battery is very secure after being mounted on a perspex plate, stuck to it with glazing silicone and then whipped on with twine. Its also supported by a couple of brackets made for exhausts and hoses.
I used a 31.8mm seat clamp with a piece of 31.75mm tube at 1.63mm thickness to house an atv ignition switch from ebay. Drilled a hole in it for the wire, then slotted the rest to make an expansion joint to grip the top of my headset. Once you have torqued down your headset and set the allen bolts tight the top hat can be removed and replaced with your ignition key setup.
The led lamp runs off a dc-dc buck converter from 50v down to 4v. Then into the original driver so I have three modes. QS-4805CBAN-90W is the dc-dc bucker.
Im just over 6Feet tall and a very lean 13stone so the battery just fits between my legs. Adding any sort of cover may cause friction or add too much width but I never go out in the pouring rain anyway. The battery is also sealed to some degree with shrink wrap and added silicone.
Here is my ladies bike. She got jealous of my "bouncy bike" and kept coming home with sore wrists etc etc. Hers is just 24v 500w conhis with 20ah ping. She used to get 50 miles out of it but now its down to around 43 due to weight and the extra 8 inches of power robbing comfort. I carry a 12v 20ah lifepo4 unit and an rc charger to give her a boost when we get lunch. Im gutted I couldnt get the mac motor on the pink one as it is a smooth beast. Stupid 12mm axles and 30mm drop out widths.
My only real annoyance is the dnp 9 speed freewheel felt very loose after a few hard rides. Like I bent something. You could grab the cogs and they would all rattle by 2mm side to side. Eventually after about 1-2000 miles it started clonking badly and replaced it with the spare I had bought. My advice BUY A SPARE LOL.
On my journey I now think dd hubs are very efficient but very restrictive over your rpm/speed. They feel like they resist my legs most of the time if im not matching throttle input exactly right. They are fine for my mrs as she is happy to let the motor be one step ahead of her legs but I like to be the reverse.
I think headways suck as I only ever seemed to get 8ah's out of 10ah cells from differing sources and all discharged at differing rates making balancing a pain. When I say I got 8ah I mean they took 8ahs on charging. Due to losses when discharging I expect it was actually less. In hindsight I think 36v amp20 pack would have done me.
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