the cold weather battery thread !

monster

100 kW
Joined
Jun 17, 2007
Messages
1,411
hi

my ping/A123 battery (700wh) is really feeling this cold weather. granted, the other day i was snow ploughing through 6" of fresh powder at -5*C but im down to about a quater of my usualy 20mile range! i think the BMS is being very conservative or something? somebody should tell him that it's -5 and to ease up a little. whats your experience?
 
I wondering about using two of these under the pack (16s 10Ah LifePO4):
Farnam%20Battery%20Heater%20Pad.JPG

Configuration: Fine ribbon wire construction in mica insulated sandwich to offer even heat over entire surface.
Ratings: 120 volts, 35 watts each heater pad.
Dimensions: 6.5" W X 9.5"L X 0.080" H.
$15 each
http://store.kta-ev.com/FarnamBatteryHeaterPad.aspx
If I could just feed it w/48V DC directly from the pack? Dunno if this would be possible... Pack will be enclosed so I wouldn't expect to use this all the time but just for short periods if the cell temp drops too low (visible temp strips stuck to the cells to indicate their surface temp)
Tks
Lock
 
Has anyone made an insulated box (cooler?) and put a heating element/thermostat in there to control temps for their batteries? I think it would be a good project. You could use a tec or teg. (thermo-electric cooler/generator) One side gets hot and one side gets cold. You can find them on e-bay.
 
Metallover said:
Has anyone made an insulated box (cooler?) and put a heating element/thermostat in there to control temps for their batteries? I think it would be a good project. You could use a tec or teg. (thermo-electric cooler/generator) One side gets hot and one side gets cold. You can find them on e-bay.

What your referring to is called a peltier (pelt-ee-A) junction. They can operate in a few different ways. I'm not sure thats necessary for this application though. My guess is that some nickel chromium resistance wire would work really well.
 
I was talking to doc about how my pack was performing like doo doo. I have the bosch packs and the capacity is there but they were sagging like super bad.

They had been stored and charged in my garage which is below 40F. My pack that normally does 88v under load was sagging to 80v. I charged them back up and again left them in the garage like a week again. The odd thing this time the voltage had rose almost a volt 0.8. I decided I needed to discharge the back again to see what was exactly going on with it and if i could get it to act properly.

I sat my two 36v 6.6AH packs and my 12v 15AH ping in front of a heater for about 20-30 minutes. They were bit warm to the touch but i could tell the core was still a little cool but its was way better than the way they felt earlier. I hurried up and put them in my insulated battery bag. I went out for a run and they were only sagging to 84-85v Its alot better but still room for improvement. Im now going to keep them in the house in a warmer spot. Maybe next to my water heater. I have a heating pad i can coil up in my battery bag an hour or so before a ride.

Ive noticed my overall pack voltage rising and my sag increasing over the past months as it got cooler. I think its because its cold. My packs used to come off the charger at a solid 98.4v. I saw a wee bit over 100v one day and got scared i was going to pop the controller.

My ping doesnt suffer from voltage sag that much maybe .2-.3v lower than normal. Still put out 45-50A constant like a champ. The lowest Ive seen my ping under load is 11.3. Under a 45-50A load.
 
A bit of theory for battery performances and temperature

Generally, cold weather will make a voltage offset to your battery pack.

It's due to the internal resistance performance of your pack that vary with temperature. With cold temperature, it increase, making the voltage sag higher.

This is the opposite with hot temp. That's why , for exemple, the killacycle guys heat up their 1210cells A123 battery pack to 70 celsius! to get less voltage sag under high load ( 2000A)

But some battery can endure easyer than others the heat so you must be carefull.
konion cells dont like temp above 50 celsius. But the A123 ca operate withouy any dammage at 100+ celsius.

Curiously, when battery operate at cold temp, their internal resistance is high, BUT that also mean the battery pack will generate more heat by itseld for the same operating current, so.. since it heat up by itself, this cold condition should cancel by itself ! making the battery warmer by itself... solving the problem after few minutes.. just the time to let it heat up enough...

A REALISTIC EXEMPLE:

Let see how much power you loose inside the battery in different conditions
This power actually dissipate IN YOUR BATTERY.. that's why your battery become hot when operating it... Yes.. a battery is also a resistance!!

-a 48V battery at 20A that have 200mohms at -10 celsius will generate 80watts of heat inside it !!! (at 12.5mohm per cell wich is realistic)

V=R*I = 0.1*20 = 4V drop
P=V*I = 4 x 20=80W

In the same condition except with a temp of 25 celsius, the same battery will have 4 miliohm
Now let's calculate again and see what happen!:

(4mohms x 16cell = 64mohm)
V=R*I = 0.064*20 = 1.28V drop... ( More than 3 time less Vdrop!!)
P=V*I = 1.28 x 20= 25.6W

So using your battery during summer and winter can make a huge V sag difference... and also a energy lost due to dissipated power in the battery!

let say you have a 20Ah 48V battery, that's 960Wh of energy

If yo operate your battery at -10 celsius in theory with this exemple above, you should lost a part of that energy in heat i the battery. 80W-25.6W =54.5W
that mean if you empty your battery in over 1 hour, you will loose 54.4Wh and the residual energy you will get to the controller ands motor is 960-54.4=905.6Wh instead

That is a huge difference!... but as i explained, the battery heat up when it dissipate thts power into it, helping increasing it's own temperature and helping to reduce this lost significantly.

====EDITED FOR 2.5x ERROR FACTOR ON CURRENT CALCULATION.. BUT THE DIFFERENCE RATIO REMAIN THE SAME==== THANKS kZs0lt for pointing that!

Doc
 
hey lock

i actually just built some heatter pads last night. i had some left over nichrome wire of about 30w @ 48V. i stuck it down on to some duct tape in a zig-zag pattern, tapped it on top and them tapped some fridge door magnet strip on to it. i now have magnetic 30w strip heaters! they take ages to heat up the pack tough even with a blanket draped over them.

from doc's calculations maybe i shouldn't have bothered?

i've noticed my hub motor freeze up a coulpe of times when the bikes been left outside for a few hours. it breaks free fairly easy though.
 
As the good Doctor pointed out, the cells themselves will generate a fair warmth when cold... But I'm thinkin' the heating pads may be useful as well. With the *real* factor to consider being how well the cells are insulated... My trips are very stop-and-go w/lots of coasting and human assist (aka exercise for warmth)so my power draw is very erratic and I'm thinkin' the heater pads might serve to maintain a small but steady draw on the cells (if they have gotten cold.) So was googling around tonite looking for 48V DC low temp normally open thermostat switches that would switch on the heaters when the battery case drops below eg 15C...

...and thomas figured two of those pads will be about 30w at 48V (so under one amp) and there do seem to be little devices like this (not sure this is exactly the right specs but you get the idea):
http://www.omega.com/Temperature/pdf/CCD100.pdf

tks
Lock
 
Nitrous bottle heaters are cheap and flexible low voltage DC resistive heating pads. I've never burned one up yet, even running them at 22v to try and bring the bottles up to temp faster on cold days at the track.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Nitrous-Oxide-Bottle-Warmer-Heater-ONLY-NEW_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem4cece6eca6QQitemZ330392071334QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

They are around 250-300w at 12v generally, but a pair of them in series would run fine on a 36v battery IMO. :)
 
Doctorbass said:
But some battery can endure easyer than others the heat so you must be carefull.
konion cells dont like temp above 50 celsius. But the A123 ca operate withouy any dammage at 100+ celsius.

Doc

I've been doing a lot of A123 M1 cell testing lately and the performance of these cells has definitely taken a hit if the outside temperature of the cell exceeds 60C or so. I'm guessing that the internal temperature is MUCH higher though.

I'm not talking a catastrophic loss of performance here, just a gradual increase in internal resistance and a loss of capacity the more times the cell reaches these temperatures. I recommend a 50C external temperature cutoff for absolute max life. Otherwise, use them until they glow!!! :twisted: :twisted: :twisted:
 
liveforphysics said:
Nitrous bottle heaters
Those are cool :)
Though I have a 48V pack and DC-DC converters start to get pretty expensive at those power levels... and heavy...
I see DynoTune has a 12V or 120V product also ("...Use the 12v wires in the car and when in the pits, simply plug in the heater to your generator....",
but it also is pricier:
http://www.dynotunenitrous.com/store/scripts/prodView.asp?idproduct=286

That'd probably run straight off 48V DC too I guess... Still think this may be TOO much heat and probably just better insulation is really the way to go (use the "natural" heating from the cells.) My "problem" again is that I don't see myself as a "power user"... I hope NOT to be pushing the cells hard in the first place!
tks
Lock
 
Doctorbass said:
A REALISTIC EXEMPLE:

Let see how much power you loose inside the battery in different conditions
This power actually dissipate IN YOUR BATTERY.. that's why your battery become hot when operating it... Yes.. a battery is also a resistance!!

-a 48V battery at 20A that have 200mohms at -10 celsius will generate 192watts of heat inside it !!! (at 12.5mohm per cell wich is realistic)

V=R*I = 0.1*20 = 4V drop
P=V*I = 4 x 48=192W

In the same condition except with a temp of 25 celsius, the same battery will have 4 miliohm
Now let's calculate again and see what happen!:

(4mohms x 16cell = 64mohm)
V=R*I = 0.064*20 = 1.28V drop... ( More than 3 time less Vdrop!!)
P=V*I = 1.28 x 48=61W

So using your battery during summer and winter can make a huge V sag difference... and also a energy lost due to dissipated power in the battery!

let say you have a 20Ah 48V battery, that's 960Wh of energy

If yo operate your battery at -10 celsius in theory with this exemple above, you should lost a part of that energy in heat i the battery. 192W-61W =131W
that mean if you empty your battery in over 1 hour, you will loose 131Wh and the residual energy you will get to the controller ands motor is 960-131=829Wh instead

That is a huge difference!... but as i explained, the battery heat up when it dissipate thts power into it, helping increasing it's own temperature and helping to reduce this lost significantly.

Doc

Very good point Doc,
Your calcs are off by a factor of 2.4 though with your assumptions. (You have used 48 instead of 20A :) )
I like to use P = I^2 * R

at -10 celsius: P = 80W of heat
at 25 celsius : P = 25.6W
Difference is 54.4W, pretty high indeed.

But assuming a 48A usage we get pretty much the numbers calculated by Doc.
Is this high temperature dependence in internal resistance very common? 3x from 25C downto -10C?
Does this apply for cells like the konions or a123? I was not aware of such a big leap with my konions, however, mine are already damaged and have huge resistance in summer too. Still don't know what caused that.
 
yes thats right only 80w

we can estimate the temperature increase using specific heat capacity (assuming no pack heat loss!)
E=M.Cp.dT

Power = 80w
assume 20 minutes ride = 96000J of (E) energy into the pack

specific heat capacity Cp = 2000J/kg.*C (assume electrolyte is similar to oil)

pack weight = 10kg

96000J / (10kg x 2000J/kg.*C) = 4.8*C

so after 20 minutes of full throttle riding your pack will have increased temperature by less than 5*C! Power demand fluctuates quite a lot. we may cruise mostly at 10A but then use 40A to accelerate. 40A x 0.2ohm = 8V drop so your BMS would cut out. also i think the open circuit voltage is dependent on the temperature so even before you draw current the voltage will be lower.
 
On another note, when I have built my battery, I didn't know what case to put my cells into. It was summer, and most of the members like dogman were fighting hot temps, and suggested to use aluminium casing with good venting to protect the battery. Now in winter we want best isolation and possibly active heating :)
I ended up with a 4mm PVC casing completely closed and sealed with silicon in the summer. Still performs well in -5C temps. I rarely use my bike in colder weather.

I see for most lithium packs is not recommended to charge them below 0C. Is this because the risk of overcharging them? Should we consider charging them to lower voltage in very cold?
liveforphysics said:
For seeing voltage related shifts, and possible over charge events, temperature has crazy effects on cells :)
Charge one up to 4.0v at 70degF, throw it in the deep freezer, pull it out and see 3.7v, measure Ri and see perhaps 10mOhm. Heat that same cell up to 200degF, see the voltage climb to 4.2, measure Ri at 2.5mOhm. The neat thing is, this cell still has the exact same amount of charge in it, despite what a voltage reading would lead you to believe. Things get kinda scary if you charge one all the way up to 4.2-4.3v in a freezing cold garage, then start heating that pack up inside and watching voltage keep climbing up... When you have a frosty cold LiPo pack charged to 4.1-4.2v, you've just over charged that cell by 10-20%(here)

I always thought the colder the cells are, the slower they naturally degrade. Seems like LiPO doesn't like sub freezing temps. I know that there is some electrolyte freezing issue with them, but that should be way below freezing temps, and that probably damages the cells permanently, not just degrade them.
recumpence said:
Sub freezing weather is definately bad on Lipo cells. They will tolerate it for a while. But, your longevity will decline noticeably.
Matt(here)
So what's situation, they only like stored in cold weather, not in use? The same applies to LiFePO4, or only LiPo? Is the cold temp damage due to internal resistance increase and thus more internal heat generated under heavy load? So if loaded lightly there would be no big degradation?

Now one of my favorite quote from LFP battery genius:
liveforphysics said:
The low voltage damage to the battery only occurs from the state of charge of the battery dropping to the point that the Lithium under goes a chemical change of state, which damages the cells.

This means whatever the pack drops down to under discharge is not important, as long as that resistive thermal energy isn't building up to exceed the cells safe temps.

You only need to care about resting voltage for concern about hurting the batteries from over-discharge.

Best Wishes,
-Luke(here)

I was reading recently that a 2.7v LVC on TS cells in cold weather sucks, because even under light load and 60%SOC it trips the LVC.
Can we load a LiFePo4 cell (for short moments)in cold weather even under 2.0v and get away with that knowing that we have plenty of charge left in(taking into account charge that goes into heat under voltage sag)? Of course this is just hypothetical question, because at that big sag we probably just exceeded max current, because these cells are C rated so that they won't drop below LVC, and we are likely to damage the battery by heat. However I wouldn't encourage anyone to do this, because it's pretty hard to get a precise SOC in cold weather as stated above.
Is seems to be a good idea to use CA and measure burnt capacity and leave some headroom.
Or should we just derate Lithium cells in cold weather because of internal resistance increase? Like 3x less C-rate according to Doc's example?

Your professional input is very appreciated.
Take care of your batts,

Zsolt
 
My metal battery enclosure really sucks in winter. Wind chill has to be considered too, and in the morning I ride downhill, using less power, heating the battery less. So the morning ride at 32F is pretty poor performance. I offset this some by cramming some kind of insulation inside the box in winter, but my box is too small for much to fit. Keeping the bike or at least the battery inside really helps. If you can start out at 60F, instead of 30F then the battery can keep itself that temp even in the wind chill.

When my battery really performs bad is on a really cold morning when I decide to take the bus part way. After about 10 miles on the front of the bus on a bike rack, the battery will be very very cold. Say 25F + 45 mph wind chill for 15 minuites. I'll get on the bike, and the bms will cut out repeatedly till things warm up. So I feather the throttle for half a mile to get er going.

This year, I pretty much gave up using the bike to commute for Dec and Jan. I'll still ride, but in the afternoon on the motorless mountain bike. I have some nice single track trails in the desert near my house now where I take my dogs.
 
liveforphysics said:
Nitrous bottle heaters are cheap and flexible low voltage DC resistive heating pads. I've never burned one up yet, even running them at 22v to try and bring the bottles up to temp faster on cold days at the track.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Nitrous-Oxide-Bottle-Warmer-Heater-ONLY-NEW_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem4cece6eca6QQitemZ330392071334QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

They are around 250-300w at 12v generally, but a pair of them in series would run fine on a 36v battery IMO. :)

These are perfect, and really cheap. Lovit.
 
So, two equal nitro or other heating pads in *parallel* = 1/2 the amps(wattage), correct?
 
Necroposting here to get more info on battery warming. As it was mentioned before, the batteries will warm up by themselves during use. I would prefer my batteries be kept at a constant temp passively rather than actively. I know what to use to keep my batteries warm, I've done it before with automotive battery warmers (battery boilers) and a thermostat to keep the temp at a constant 20 degrees Celsius. My problem now is the new battery I use takes up so much space in the battery box that there is not enough room for the thick mat of the automotive battery warmer I used before.

I need something thin, flexible that I can wrap around the battery and it won't ad a lot of volume. Is there a product out there that meets those requirements. All I can find are thick mats, thick wraps or there are products that are very thin but they are not big enough, expensive and are not customizable. I need some sort of thin metal tape that I can wrap around the battery, hook up power to it and it gets warm. I thought of simple aluminum tape used for duct work maybe?

Suggestions please

Thanks
Ray
 
Have you tried looking thru the various heated-clothing threads and posts around the forums?

Is probably also some options in the battery-discharge-testing/tester threads/posts.
 
I did spend some time searching but got a bit frustrated sifting through all of the irrelevant stuff that comes up in my search. All the products I see will not work for me. I have to keep ten Leaf modules at an acceptable temp. The battery is two separate blocks of five modules, those little pads I see for bicycle packs won't do. What I need is a way to make my own heater I guess, which I can customize to suit my needs.

I already have the digital thermostat, so I just need to have wire or metal tape winding around the modules the way I want and hook it up to the wall outlet which is 110V. That is what I used to do with my old battery and an automotive battery warmer pad wrapped around it. Worked like a charm.

I guess my question is really what kind of wire do I need to make a heater that plugs into the wall outlet.

Thanks
Ray
 
This is the battery heater I have.

81n3nf39YBL._SX522_.jpg


I opened it up to see what kind of heating element is in it. It's an 18 foot long insulated NiChrome wire much like this. This wire is sold at an Ohms value per foot.

s-l1600.jpg


On the 18 foot long wire from my battery heater, I measured 191 Ohms on the wire. Am I correct in assuming that I have to divide 191 by 18 to know which wire to get? 191 Ohms divided by 18 feet is 10.6 Ohms per foot? So I should get this wire?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/HEATER-WIRE...986236?hash=item3a870ea1bc:g:kBoAAMXQWzNSelCy

Thanks
Ray
 
Or go to goodwill and buy an old electric blanket. Most of these are very easy to cut the seams and pull out the heating wire, which is the same thing you see in your pic above.

This is one of the several methods / heating elements discussed in the heated-clothing/etc threads, which is why I recommended reading them.
 
Thank you for your recommendation but I did look through a lot of threads but did not find clear answers to my questions.

I suspect that the wire in a heating blanket does not have the resistance I need. Or maybe it does but why search around for a used blanket and spend money to get it only to find out it doesn't have the right stuff? When I can order exactly what I need at $0.25 per foot.

So please correct me if I'm wrong as Ohms Law Formulas are new to me and I suck at math. I have two blocks of 5 Leaf modules to heat. I need 18 feet of wire to go around each block five times like I want. To get 80 watt from each wire when connected to a 110V wall outlet, I need to get wire with a resistance of 8.3 Ohms per foot?

Also, since I will have two lengths of wire, one on each block of modules, I will need to join them in parallel to go in the 110V digital thermostat I have. Will both wires still give 80 watts each? Or will it cut their power to 40 watt each since they will be in parallel? Or will it be the opposite. I hope I am making sense, my brain works in strange ways sometimes.

Thanks
Ray
 
Hi!

I have build thermostat controlled heater to my lipos.

Three pairs of thoses in series at battery voltage(48V): http://www.ebay.com/itm/Universal-Motorcycle-ATV-Heated-Hot-Hand-Grips-Inserts-Handlebar-Hand-Warmer-Kit-/301803890817?hash=item4644e9e881:g:gQMAAOSwiwVWTsOC&vxp=mtr
Can't remember resistances but this gived solid power about 50W.
Thermostat: http://www.ebay.com/itm/50-110-C-W1209-Digital-thermostat-Temperature-Control-Switch-12V-sensor-/252062159071?hash=item3ab01350df:g:DCUAAOSwjVVV1E3b
Step-down power for thermostat: http://www.ebay.com/itm/DC-DC-HRD-Converter-24v-36v-48v-To-12v-3A-Voltage-Adjust-Switch-Step-Down-Module-/381212347260?hash=item58c206cb7c:g:mpIAAOSwstxVG8uU

Glued and taped warmer pads around battery pack, installed temp-probe to center of the packs, wrapped some polyurethane around and tape.
Worked nicely; about volt less voltage sag at -10C and some range also. Until forgotted bike outside without charger too many days and warmer eats my whole pack to 10V:( (good reason to buy new lipos to replace 1,5year old:))
So be carecul! and add some low-voltage cutoff and fuse also recommended.
 
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