the cruzbike electric

bobmcree

10 kW
Joined
May 25, 2006
Messages
618
Greetings my friends. 72F and sunny here in Northern California today, sorry if you are not as comfortable where you are. I had an amazing ride today on my new Cruzbike recumbent; my second ride on it since i got the electric motor system working. Joshua of EVSolutions loaned me a unique Chinese geared hub motor called either the TARN, or NuEnergy. I am running it with the stock controller at 48v with a 15A current limit, so it draws 700W. I am not sure about the efficiency, but from the performance i would say it is pretty good. The motor is meant for the front, but it is 115 mm wide so it will not fit on any standard American forks. This makes the motor almost a tailor made match for the Cruzbike, which is front wheel drive and uses a front wheel with spacers in a 135 mm dropout rear axle. The motor only weighs 5 lbs and is less than 6" in diameter, so most people don't even notice it. I was pleasantly surprised with the motor performance and the low noise level of the plastic internal gears. The motor is extremely well made, and Joshua tells me they are not too expensive. Now the bad news; they are only available in China unless we get a bunch of Cruzbike people or folks who want to get special wider forks together to order a batch. The Chinese manufacturers are all moving away from geared hub motors and towards a motor more like the Crystalyte; bigger, heavier, narrower, and more powerful at higher speeds.

The geared motor is a great combination with the recumbent, as it provides enough power to get the bike started from a stop during the somewhat awkward takeoff period. I rode the bike for a week around my place to get used to it before mounting the power system, as i had never ridden a bent before. For those who have not seen the bike, check them out at Cruzbike.com. There are photos of mine and pictures of the battery mounts on my website at bobmcree.com. Mine is the Freerider with the swept back "easy rider" style handlebars, part of what makes it an attention getter, along with the very comfortable high backed seat. I have a bad back, and this bike is very comfortable for me to ride. The improved aerodynamics of a recumbent are immediately obvious to someone accustomed to riding an upright mtb. It easily hits 35 coasting down the 5% grade on my way home, where my mtb does about 30. I finally took a look at the manual today, which is mostly general stuff about bikes with just a bit specific to the bike. One thing i did learn from it was that i have been mounting the bike the hard way, by leaning it over and swinging my leg over the high back of the seat. I can do it, but it is a stretch. They advise that it is easier to hold the back of the seat with one hand and the near handgrip with the other and step over the saddle. I tried it and it is quite a bit easier for someone not too graceful like me.

I had some custom aluminum L brackets made, 8" square with a 4" ledge, from 1/8" 5053 alloy, at a cost of $30. The rest of the hardware all comes from the hardware store. The bracket assembly bolts together on either side of the main frame member, and requires no drilling or modification of the bike. 5 1/4-20 screws connect the two halves of the bracket together and support the battery weight. Foam stick on padding should even protect the paint. The bracket has round protruding screw heads that match with the hollow dimples in the feet on the bottom of the Pelican cases that hold the batteries, and the cases are notched into the bottom ledge and then held down securely into the brackets by the seat. The battery cases are so secure you cannot budge them, and they do not move or squeak a bit at a bumpy 35 mph.

The bike weighs 34 lbs, the motor adds another 6. The battery bracket and two Pelican cases weigh 8 lb, 20 Ah 48V of DD Nexcells weigh another 29 lbs and tested out at 19.4 Ah. Throw in a pound for the controller and a pound for the rack and another pound for my heavy dual kickstand and that makes it 80 lbs which is not too bad to pick up or ride without power. My preliminary heavy handed range testing indicates i will get 40-50 miles of range out of my 1 kWh battery pack. The bike with this motor set at a 15A current limit will cruise at 23-25 on the flats using about 400W of power with no pedaling, and draws 200W up to 28. The bike rides very comfortably at this speed. It will climb a 5% grade with slight pedaling about 16-17 and a 10% with moderate pedaling at 10 mph. It will start up a 10% hill without pedaling, and has enough torque and power at that speed to climb it at under 10 mph, something none of the non-geared hub motors i have used will do. I can stop at the store at the bottom of a hill that needed a 20 mph running start to make it up at 16 using 1400W with the Crystalyte 4011, and then climb it at about 12 with a bit of pedaling and half the power on this bike. One drawback of the FWD is that on a steep gravel road you can lose traction pedaling, so the rear motor is the perfect solution. With 10 pounds of lithium carried on the rear seat post mounted rack the weight could be reduced to 50 lbs total..

The Pelican cases are extremely durable, a consideration when hundreds of dollars worth of batteries could be destroyed in a minor accident. These you can drive a car over. This size case is about $32, they have a wide range smaller and larger. They have a purge valve which is a consideration in case batteries vent, but i had to cut a hole for the wires so they are no longer hermetically sealed. I looked at hermetic connectors, and it would have taken $200 worth to do the job, so i spent the money on a front disc brake instead :) There is enough room in these cases for the batteries and a 40A controller in one and that much space for a charger or other electronics in the other. I mounted my drainbrain on the front steering tube so it is down between my knees. The brake and shifter cables loop in the air to form a frame around my view of the brain.

It is considerably more effort to ride this bike than my high powered mtb, which has in reality become an electric motorcycle. The Cruzbike requires some upper body effort to offset the pedaling, and it is taking its toll on my back. Of course when using power that is not an issue. I am hoping i can tighten up some muscles so that i build up a bit more endurance, but with 40+ miles of expected range i don't need to be frugal with power. The TARN would be enough power for 90% of ebike riders, it is enough for me most of the time. I need a bit more exercise so a little pedaling will be good if my back will hold up to it.

I have another rear wheel coming this week from Dave Stanton with LH threads on the left side to accept the later thread-on version of the Currie USPD drive, and regular threads on the right to mount a cluster if i decide to do a mid-drive later or use it on another bike. I have an 850W BMC brushless motor for it that should produce some pretty good speed, or i can use one of the surplus Kollmorgens i and many others have been using for the last year or so. One big plus with this rear wheel is that i had it made with no dish, which makes it stronger. It is also 48 spoke. The Cruzbike has no rear "chain line" so it is not necessary to dish the wheel to make room for a multispeed cluster. This will also be no problem with a mid drive since the chain line will be wherever i put it.

Enough for now, take a look at the photos if you are interested, and i will be happy to answer any questions. Another nice day expected tomorrow; i'll be out cruzin'

-bob
 
That looks great! I like the Pelican cases.
Post up some pics here when you get a chance.

You say the motor has plastic gears? In the Puma setup there are two plastic gears and one metal gear.

Is the motor brushed or brushless?

I also noticed something on your web page about a regen system.
How does that work? (possibly belongs in another thread).
 
That looks great! I like the Pelican cases.
Post up some pics here when you get a chance.

yep the cases turned out nice. i guess we just insert photos so here they are

i have not opened it up so i am not sure but i would expect it is a combination of the two, with the pinion metal and the rest plastic.

it is a brushless motor rated at 300W at 75% efficiency, but i got it with a modified controller and it draws 15.7A at Ilimit and works great there. From the performance it must be producing 500w or close to it.

the motor is made by Nuergy/EThinkar and there is data on their site. everyone who has tried it LOVES it, but it will not fit in regular forks at 115-125 mm.

i need to update my web page. i did the regen project about a year ago with my brushed WE motor, using a relay and later a FET controlled by a PIC to dump power into a current limiter to the battery and a load resistor. it worked very well, but i gave up on the brushed motor. this motor has a freewheel, as does my USPD, and i have not developed a regen system for any of my brushless hub motors. one of these days....

i am hooked on the recumbent :) i always wanted one, but could not justify the expense. Cruzbike advertised on power-assist that they would give a free $995 bike to the person they selected to motorize it. they picked my proposal from among quite a few who were interested. I should be glad they did not ask here; one of you guys would probably have beat me out. i am very pleased with the way it has turned out so far. the rear wheel i can use the hub drive uspd/850w bmc will be here tomorrow, so later this week i will be pushing the limits.

getting the bike free was just the beginning, of course. i have already spent over $1000 on the conversion, and that does not include the disc brakes and 3 speed front derailleur system to make it a 24 speed instead of 8 that i just ordered, or the custom Staton LH drive hub wheel, slimed Continental town&country tires, and the uspd/850w bmc setup i will pretty much have a 40 mph electric motorcycle. i can switch the wheel and flip the current limiter switch and go to the 500w motor for more range and more pedaling in a few minutes, making it two completely different bikes, but both with the most comfortable seat you can imagine :) It feels like i am sitting in an ergonomic office chair.

-bob
 

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great looking bike. I've never seen a recumant with the seating position so high!

Interestingly i was speaking to someone a while ago who had ordered a few ethinkar from china (to the uk). He also said they were great and said the controller comes with an adjustable speed limiter. sounded kinda interesting. I like the idea of using high voltage (48v) and lower current - smaller wires, fewer cooling issues and better efficiency (i think).

What does it sound like? say compared to the uspd.
 
Hi Bob

Nice job, I am glad you found the geared hub motor to be a good choice for low down torque (some people just didnt seem to believe me for some reason) Gearing means you can get relatively high torques at lower speeds something that the none geared units are not as good at.

I think I recognise the motors and they look the same as these ones on these bikes, who funnily enough appeared on a consumer tv show called the gadget show here in the uk! when I get 5 mins I will post it on youtube.

http://www.urbanmover.com/technology_production.htm

Be good to see some more pictures on here, its easy to add them in to the post Bob, be good to see exactly how you have mounted those pelican cases! which were coincidently also tested on the gadget show last week! how strange!

Its a smart looking bike Bob as well looks very comfortable as well, you have packed a lot of cells in those cases as well Bob, would love to see how you have done that (more pictures!) and any video? :)

Great job Bob as to be expected, Joshua selling geared motors! ha ha :)

Cheers

Paul
 
we posted at the same time, thanks for the pics bob! super job, I figured from the first picture the brackets were part of the bike! sweet 8)
 
i don't think it is the same motor as the urban mover. their motor has a cluster on it and i don't think this one is offered that way.

i have been using pelican cases for many years to carry around my camera equipment and pro audio stuff. they are a great deal, and a perfect fit for the batteries.

the system is still in a state of flux, but here is a picture of the inside of one with 24v 20 Ah and the motor controller below. This controller is the size of a regular 20A unit but there is room for the big black brick 40A. That leaves lots of room in the other box for custom electronics. I will eventually use the 40A with adjustable current limit for switching between my two motor systems.

there are thermistors on each pack and a connector on the bottom of one side for the charger, along with the other switches and controls as i need more.
here also are a couple of pix of how the cases interlock into the brackets. I used round head screws protruding on the case side to engage the dimpled feet of the cases, and i notched the lid down at the bottom so that it presses against the angle on the edge as the battery is pressed down and in. The fiberglass seat then hooks over the front of the cases and when i screw the seat down they do not budge. A bungee cord secures the cases to the frame in case they should be dislodged in an accident. They will not come loose except in a major crash.
 

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Hi Bob

Great pictures thanks for posting!! are those your packs? did you shrink wrap them yourself? tidy job indeed!!

Nice to see your dog as well, there was a bit of him in one of my motor shipments :lol: that dog trafficking bob!! must be a federal offence? :lol:

You alternate fuel source sure looks more tasty than my NIMH!! ha ha.

Great pics nice and clear, I am sure cruzebike will want to borrow it off you soon enough!! ha ha :)

Cheers

Paul
 
nope they are Justin's Nexcell packs. One was damaged slightly in shipping so i had to cut it open and they are very well made. He sent me some of the extra heat shrink to redo them, he is selling big shrink on his site now.

for those who missed it, yep i live in a small house and there is dog hair everywhere, so if i ship you something it will likely contain a bit. no fleas though, guaranteed.

i am hoping i can convince cruzbike to buy some of these motors to supply to customers who want them, since that is the only way we will likely be able to get any more. Joshua says they are fairly inexpensive, but we would have to buy at least 20 to get their attention.

-bob
 
Your corn on the cob has faded Bob, did you leave it in the sun too long? Didn't notice any dog hair in my Kollmorgen, maybe I should check :wink:

Cheers,
Ash.
 
nope, it's garden fresh sweet white corn. don't you get that in oz? it gets plenty hot enough there for it; that's what it likes best.

-bob
 
NickF23, see if you can find out who he got the recumbent from in China. I' ve not come across any recumbents from China in my searches so far.
 
bobmcree said:
nope, it's garden fresh sweet white corn. don't you get that in oz? it gets plenty hot enough there for it; that's what it likes best.

-bob

I don't think I've ever seen it. Plenty of yellow stuff though :)
 
the motor is from china, they are not imported currently. the Cruzbike is sold as a complete bike or a kit that can be mounted on most suspension mt bikes. the frame they use is a generic taiwanese aluminum unit.

-bob
 
bobmcree said:
the motor is from china, they are not imported currently. ...
-bob

i got tarn motor on ebay with a bliss folding bike (UK).

The controller on the bike is based on MC33035. Unfortunately there is a part on PCB covered in black epoxy with some circuitry so nobody can copy/read it. (black square)It says 24V/7A/15A on the back.
the input/big cap is 50V.

The bike has 24V 9Ah Nimh battery that you can slide off the bike and switching charger(2a).

relatively small motor inside has interesting 12:1 planetary gearbox with no teeth (friction?). Very quiet.
Motor itself is quite small with coils on the outside and rotor inside.
i think it is 4 pole and 15 stator(coils) setup.Coil are from 0.5mm wire.
Inside of the motor is small paper label saying 24V...I wonder your TARN motor have 24V label inside.(same coils and thickness of the wire)

The top speed on 24V is only about 20km/h on 16 inch wheel.
It feels like 200W.

I couldn't resist to try bike on 33V.
Dewalt pack provided the power. Speed got to 26km/h, it felt like 300-400W. Much better and the controller took it just fine. runs cold.
I also shorted the current sens resistor(wire) by 1/4 to have more punch.
I didn't measured the current yet.
Since I can't modify the controller right away because of the black epoxy I'm stuck wit 33V. Overall i like the bike on 33V, not that much on 24V. It is relatively lightweight (aprox. 22kg?). Cheap, 230 pounds and folds quickly.
riding the bike is ok, not as comfortable/stable as bigger bikes.
I'm curious if I have the same controller as You and the same motor!
I can imagine that on 48V it can start to perform. But can I supply 48V into this controller? Perhaps not with the cap 50V.

Here are some photos.
 

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bobmcree said:
the motor is from china, they are not imported currently. the Cruzbike is sold as a complete bike or a kit that can be mounted on most suspension mt bikes. the frame they use is a generic taiwanese aluminum unit.

-bob

3 more photos
 
The controller on the bike is based on MC33035. Unfortunately there is a part on PCB covered in black epoxy with some circuitry so nobody can copy/read it. (black square)It says 24V/7A/15A on the back.
the input/big cap is 50V.

the 33035 is a good controller chip but it is only rated to 30V. You are lucky you did not blow it with the a123 pack. this is the same controller design built into the kollmorgen 400w 24v motors i have been using and selling.

my motor is not the same as yours. neither is the controller. the motors are made by Nuergy and there is a lot of info on their site.

the particular controller i have is by ananda and is potted. it was an evaluation unit and has adjustable power limiting. it will allow 700w into the motor at 48v and the motor does very well at that voltage and seems reliable. this motor is 135 mm wide and will not fit in front forks, and there is not a mount on it for a rear sprocket like yours.

the internal electric motors are really cool, justin at ebikes.ca took the motors out of a couple and is using them in a powered skateboard.
 
bobmcree said:
the particular controller i have is by ananda and is potted. it was an evaluation unit and has adjustable power limiting..

The stock controller from My AL1020 is also Ananda (24V 15A) which was working OK with 36V.
It is then upgraded with 20A X-controller which can work from 24V to 48V battery for AL1020.
 

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The7 said:
bobmcree said:
the particular controller i have is by ananda and is potted. it was an evaluation unit and has adjustable power limiting..

The stock controller from My AL1020 is also Ananda (24V 15A) which was working OK with 36V.
It is then upgraded with 20A X-controller which can work from 24V to 48V battery for AL1020.

the one i have is a 36V15A model. before i got it someone added a pot on a short cable that adjusts the current limit. it runs fine at 48v so far.

i have used lots of the kollmorgens with the 33035 controller chip and many people have blown the internal controllers quickly at 36v; the 33035 is definitely only rated to 30v

did you have a question? yes it is a cool motor, no it is not exactly the same as yours, no i cannot get any more unless it is in quantity.

this motor was one of several sent here for evaluation. i don't have an exact part number and there are no numbers on it. friends who have taken them apart love them; i have had too many other things to do right now to take this one apart. i do know that they are very inexpensive, quiet, waterproof, and too wide to fit in any front fork used in the US. if somebody got some chinese forks they would fit in they would probably be quite successful.

the best thing is they weigh only 5 lbs and are very small. they are just not powerful enough for me, with long steep hills to climb.
 
The toothless planetary gear is interesting. Any idea how force is maintained on the rollers? What happens when the metal wears down a bit?
 
fechter said:
The toothless planetary gear is interesting. Any idea how force is maintained on the rollers? What happens when the metal wears down a bit?

Very good question!?
I like to know the answer as well!
 
bobmcree said:
this motor was one of several sent here for evaluation. i don't have an exact part number and there are no numbers on it. friends who have taken them apart love them;

What did your friends find? Are they using teethless gears as nemo's TARN motor?
 
fechter said:
The toothless planetary gear is interesting. Any idea how force is maintained on the rollers? What happens when the metal wears down a bit?
From what I saw inside:
I think that the force is maintained on rollers by clever mechanical design when the motor spindle(shaft?) in the middle is one firm point, 3 wheels can shift a little bit and engage themselves against barrel on the outside , again a firm point.
It's done by using needle bearing inside the 3 wheels with not enough needles.(img7973) so the wheels doesn't stay centered.
English is not my first language, sorry

What I didn't described when sending the pictures is that there is a one way clutch? on one side of the wheel to allow free wheeling(img7968)...again...doesn't make any sound... similar principle with some wheels put off the centre or something..I didn't opened that part. Unlike in the free wheeling part on the bike where it makes clicking sound.

It is quite interesting to see the level of engineering in these cheap chinese motors.

The only drawback I see with the enclosed motor is heat. You can't tell how hot it is inside because the enclosure have an air gap.

I wonder how reliable they are.
What is really interesting is that it all doesn't slip!
maybe somebody with an engineering background could answer the reliability and other questions.
I would be interested in loss comparation to a teethed one.
The magnet of the motor is not rare earth either.
 
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