"True assist": is anyone else doing this?

wayover13

100 W
Joined
Apr 9, 2013
Messages
144
Location
WI USA
I've been a dedicated cyclist for most of my life. I did a bit of racing (mostly amateur-level criteriums, with a few time trials and road races thrown in) in my younger years. I also did some cross-country touring back in those days, riding one year from CA to the midwest and another year from the midwest to the east coast. The racing was a short-lived aspect of my cycling life, but a love for the intense aerobic workouts I used to do when training, as well as my love for cross-country touring by bicycle, has stuck with me.

I got interested in electric and other types of assist a few years ago on coming to grips with the fact that I will not be getting any stronger as a cyclist as I age. Also, my wife, who now joins in my cycling interest on our tandem, is a much weaker rider than I am. If long-distance touring is to be in our future, I'm going to need some additional assist in order to get--not just the two of us, but our gear as well--to the tops of some of those hills.

As I've noted elsewhere on this forum, I experimented with a cheap DD hub motor over the course of the last 2 years as a means of proving to myself the viability of long-distance touring using electric assist. Though that kit had its limitations and shortcomings, I was able to determine that electric assist will, indeed, be a feasible way for us to pursue our long-distance touring aspirations.

As I continue my research into electric assist systems in preparation for an upgrade from the kit I've been using for the last couple of years, I'm finding it difficult to locate information relevant to my aims. There is a great deal of information on electric assist on these forums, and I'm certainly learning from it. But I'm also finding that the aims of so many--perhaps most--involved in the development, review, and adaptations of these systems are quite different from my aims. Thus, much of the information produced is--especially for someone like me, who has rather limited technical knowledge--not totally relevant.

Allow me to explain. Because of the fact that I very much enjoy pedaling my bicycle and getting a good workout, in combination with the fact that, when going long distances it is necessary to use such energy as one has at one's disposal judiciously, I am not looking for a means of propelling my bike that does not rely on input from me. Rather, despite the fact that I have a motor on my bike, I want that motor to come into play only at particular points in my route--namely, when encountering difficult terrain (think long or steep uphill grades); the rest of the time I want it to be latent, awaiting the next bit of challenging terrain, when I will bring it to bear again. Even when going up hills, I should mention, I still want to do some pedaling: I just don't want to pedal as hard. I do not foresee any circumstance short of catastrophic mechanical or physical failure (and we don't plan our lives around such occurrences) when I would want the assist system to propel the bike independent of my input.

This is what I am calling "true assist," i.e., a system designed only to assist the rider, not to allow him to use his bike as something closer to a motorcycle. The aim of true assist, rather than being how fast the motor can propel the bike or how far the battery can take the motorized bike with no pedaling by the rider--which really aims at maximizing assist--is to determine what minimal amount of assist is going to be enough to ease the rider's exertion in difficult terrain.

True, that minimum could vary quite a lot depending on things like the rider's physical condition and the severity of the terrain. So, there will be no single authoritative answer to all true assist needs; of that I'm certain. For myself--someone who is in quite good physical condition and who rides on standard paved roads--the true assist equation will be different than it would for, say, someone in my physical condition but who rides trails with much steeper grades than are found on most paved secondary roads.

But the issue here is not that I expect to find a single authoritative answer: the problem is that, with the exception of one site I found, no one seems to be asking the sorts of questions I'm trying to answer. That is, almost all postings I find gravitate much more towards getting the highest performance possible out of a given kit than they do toward the question of what are the minimal power levels required to assist a rider who has no aversion to pedaling, up a hill. The only thing I've managed to find so far that is right on-topic is John Tetz's article at http://www.recumbents.com/mars/tetz/E-Assist.htm

Still, I don't believe there is no one out there besides me and John Tetz who are interested in exploring low-end systems. This forum must have readers and contributors who enjoy pedaling their bikes around--correct? Certainly not everyone is aiming at turning their bike into something like an electric motorcycle, are they?

So, can anyone point out any information on this forum or on some other web site, that has this sort of low-power aim? Is anyone else on this forum interested in developing and implementing something along the lines of true assist as I've described it? If so, please post in this thread. I'm interested in connecting with others who adopt this approach.

Finally, could this true assist approach warrant its own sub-section on this forum? We'll have to see whether there is sufficient interest, I suppose. If there are others who, like me, want to explore minimal power boundaries, it would be nice to have a separate place where high-power discussions could be treated as off-topic.
 
Pedal assist takes the fun out of ebiking in my opinion. Full electric is a better option. I usually ride hybrid, with some pedaling and some electric.
 
True pedal assist isn't any great mystery. I believe the Cycleanalyst V3 includes inputs and software to allow a THUN torque sensing crank to be used to sense the torque applied to the pedals, and allow adjustment of the assist provided.

You might want to contact Justin at Ebikes.ca directly, as he will have more information than most of us. While there are a few Pedal assist people here, he is probably the the most knowledgable.
 
Unless you are able to predict the maximum limit of assist you may need.. IE:- max grade, load weight, speed, duration, wind resistance, rider input, etc.. then configuring an "automatic" assist system to give the ideal response under all circumstances, is near impossible.
You may be able to use a system that only assists if road speed drops below a certain set point, but i suspect you are thinking of something more sophisticated than that.
The most sophisticated and adaptable control that i am aware of is the human brain connected to a hand throttle !..
...or do you not trust yourself to only use it when needed ? :wink:
 
Most of the geared hub motors and many mid-drives have a freewheel so when the motor is off, there is virtually no drag from the motor. Beyond that, a well designed pedal force sensor could allow a system that multiplies your pedal force times some constant (like 1.5, for example). This way you get some assist, but pedal input is directly proportional to the amount of assist. You can have a control that varies the constant for more or less assist.

This kind of system can be done but the pedal force sensor part tends to be flaky. For best reliability a standard throttle is probably better.

I helped Tetz with a current mode control that gives a constant torque for a given throttle input, independent of speed (up to the maximum allowed by the battery voltage). The CA has a function that works like this also. These work great if dialed-in properly but can be prone to oscillations (surging) in the feedback loop.
 
My ten year old Aprilia Enjoys came stock with crank-based torque sensor assist. The logic was about as good as a fist full of diodes and transistors in a controller can deliver.

I took it off and replaced it with a thumb throttle, supplemented by a fussy mechanical engineer also mounted on the bike. He now makes all the decisions as to how much pedal and electrical effort to apply based on the hill at hand, the amount of alcohol consumend the night before, current state of mental wellness, remaining distance to cover and remaining battery capacity. It's an incredibly sophisticated system in technological terms. I'd urge you to try it.

Seriously, don't assume that people only have two throttle speeds - off and WOT. There is a continuum in between for a reason - the same reasons as your 'pure' assist you speak of. It's not so pure, unless you can develop not only inclinometers, but a way to measure distance left to cover, and current blood energy levels.

I don't get why throttles are seen as any less 'pure'.
 
Thanks for the responses in this thread. The input is helpful.

Hillhater said:
The most sophisticated and adaptable control that i am aware of is the human brain connected to a hand throttle !..
...or do you not trust yourself to only use it when needed ? :wink:
This is what I've been doing for the past 2 years and will continue to do for the foreseeable future. A torque sensing system that brings the motor into play when needed, as has been mentioned by a few so far, would be an upgrade from that, since it would mean one less control I'd have to be fiddling with (in addition to the steering, brakes, and shift levers). Sometime down the line I will look into implementing that. But for the time being I'll be sticking with the tried and true brain/throttle combination.

But the discussion has become a bit sidetracked by the issue of pedal assist. That's an interesting topic and something I do plan on looking into further. But more important for purposes of this thread's subject are other matters--the most fundamental of which is how do I determine what sort of wattage/amperage/voltage motor/battery kit I'll need for the minimal assist I'm wanting? I've so far not found any good guidelines for helping me to determine this.

I can come up with a weight for our rig/us/gear and I can project a grade steepness which I hope we'd never exceed. I might even be able to determine something like wattage output we 2 riders can do on average. Could those figures help me to determine the wattage/amperage/voltage for the sort of minimal or true assist system I'd like to implement?
 
Check out Kepler's latest build thread to give you some insight into your latest question. Including pedelec.
http://www.endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=47139

As to wattage needed- scroll down to see bicycle power and the variables.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bicycle_performance

Now as for making that wattage - it's best to use a higher voltage and lower amps as amps equal heat losses in the system, and a higher voltage generally means better top speed. But higher amps generally mean better starting torque/acceleration for a given motor. Welcome to the great tradeoff.

So it's over to you to discuss what sort of terrain you want to cover and what motor weight you want. And what sort of bike/tyres you want to do it on.
 
Bionx.

But I just won't ever get it. Once you have a wattmeter to help you get the hang of it, it's easy to infinitely vary your assist with a throttle. Soon you won't even be thinking about it, it just happens.

Freewheeling gear hub if you wish to pedal with zero assist at some point. But then you lose the possibility of regen. Only takes 50w to get rid of motor drag, and a tiny bit of the effect of the weight. But it can take some effort to ride with the throttle that low. Much easier to do with a three speed switch, or watt limiter in use. But definitely easiest to just throttle off, and freewheel.

Just pick a gear, and pedal. If you start to spin too fast, back off the throttle. You always have the perfect assist level that way. Pick a low gear, and you get good wh/mi.

But, if you have the wrong winding and voltage motor on the bike, it could drive you nuts. For your needs, a slow motor is going to be the thing. You have two years experience, but all of it with a motor kit designed for no pedaling at about 20 -25 mph.

Try a Mac 12t on 48v.
 
Yep, I believe a Bionix kit is as close as can be, to your pedal assist requirements. It is expansive though, but easy to set and very reliable. If you want to build yourself, it is possible to do better with a lot of research, try and error, with a CA and a geared hub driven by a torque sensor.
 
99% of my riding is at 10-15mph. The controller I have has a cruise control that is really a power control as it locks throttle setting and really has nothing to do with speed. If set to 15mph on level ground, it will be slower going uphill, even though the bike is more than capable of going much faster up the hill, and faster going downhill. I usually set it at ~8-9mph on level ground and pedal up to where the motor reaches a no load speed which use almost electric power. Going downhill above no load speed reverses current flow back into battery. This way I get a more constant exercise load with my pedaling. Of course if want or need to fast I can do that too.
 
Samd said:
Check out Kepler's latest build thread to give you some insight into your latest question. Including pedelec.
http://www.endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=47139

As to wattage needed- scroll down to see bicycle power and the variables.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bicycle_performance
That wikipedia article has been pointed out to me before but I'd not looked it over carefully. I've done so now and, though technically it's a bit over my head, it certainly could provide some helpful information.

As to the Kepler thread, please do not take this wrongly, but that build is actually quite the opposite of the "true assist" concept as I'm envisioning it. The first indication of that is the stealth factor that seems to be so important to the build: why would someone who is aiming to somewhat lessen their physical exertion in challenging terrain be concerned with disguising the fact that they're using a motor to accomplish that end? This would be, I think, a non-factor in the true assist scheme.

I also note the speeds Kepler maintains on this bike: on the second build (he replaced the friction drive with a hub motor) he claims to be doing 35 kph (22 mph) on flats and 25 kph (15 mph) on hills. I suspect, based on those figures, that his system is supplying more than the minimal assist I'm hoping to investigate. Furthermore, why use electric assist at all on flat stretches of road: in a true assist scenario such as I'm envisioning it, the electric assist would be disengaged in such terrain.

Finally, the true colors of this project come out in Kepler's recounting of the instance when he "latched on a nice quick Lycra this morning" (page 8 ). He seems to relish the fact that the lycra fellow seems not to have realized, owing to Kepler's stealthy implementation of electric assist, that he was riding alongside an electric-assist bike. The culmination of the story is when Kepler, after he and the lycra fellow had chatted a bit at a stop, "switched to 750W mode and silently sped off to a 45kph cruise speed. That was the last I saw of him. Mission accomplished." Uh, no; cute as this story might seem to some, this is quite far from the true assist scenario I'm envisioning. So, though for someone who is knowledgeable, information that will be relevant to true assist can be gleaned from that thread, its main drift is quite off-target. This sort of discussion amounts to a bit of a red herring for purposes I'm discussing.

To help clarify further the true assist scheme I'm interested in, let me quote a bit from John Tetz's article which, as I said, is the only fully relevant material I've thus far found. He starts off stating "My assist philosophy has been based on the concept of truly low power giving just enough assistance." He clarifies things a bit further when he states "what I am designing for is not so much for speed but for reduced effort from the rider." Exactly what I'm aiming for. The rest of the article describes a system he implemented to test his design philosophy.

One metric worth mentioning is some testing he did on a hill with a 6% grade. His speed up that grade, with assist from the minimal-power system he designed, is a little over 6 mph (9.5 kph). As the battery's charge drops a bit on successive runs, his speed reduces slightly to a little over 5 mph (bear in mind Tetz is probably in his 70's and is riding a tadpole trike). More importantly, though he is pedaling along with the motor, he is able to maintain a slightly higher speed than he would without assist and, most salient of all, he is far less spent physically when he reaches the top of the hill. This is very much what I'm aiming for: we would also be maintaining, without assist, about 6 mph up such a grade. That's an acceptable speed, though it comes, on a bike with no electric assist, at the price of significant level of physical exhaustion by the time the crest is attained. So, a reduction of the level of exhaustion is what both he and I are aiming at.

Again, the link to his article is http://www.recumbents.com/mars/tetz/E-Assist.htm This is the only thing I've managed thus far to find that both adheres to the philosophy of true assist as I'm envisioning it, and also provides data points and actual testing results. Maybe it really is the only thing out there along these lines?

Now as for making that wattage - it's best to use a higher voltage and lower amps as amps equal heat losses in the system, and a higher voltage generally means better top speed. But higher amps generally mean better starting torque/acceleration for a given motor. Welcome to the great tradeoff.

So it's over to you to discuss what sort of terrain you want to cover and what motor weight you want. And what sort of bike/tyres you want to do it on.
Thank you for explaining the amperage/voltage aspects of this matter. This is something I understand rather poorly, so simplified explanations such as this are very helpful.
 
Thanks for your replies, dogman, MadRhino, and wesnewell. I've looked at hub motors and thought seriously about ordering one: they're definitely the simplest solution and could serve my needs adequately. I'm actually leaning more toward a mid-drive now, though, since it seems they could be utilized more efficiently for my purposes. Also, a mid-drive unit would not entail essentially replacing parts I already have on my bike (my bike already has, obviously, wheels). But I've not yet made final decisions about my planned upgrade.

What I've been hoping to find as I try to finalize my upgrade decision, is relevant hard data. But it's been very hard to come by, given what I'm aiming to do. There is plenty of data available about things like top speed for a particular hub motor laced into a wheel of a given size and attached to a battery of a given capacity. But data I'm not finding is what is the minimal wattage/amperage motor/battery set-up I can use? Specifically, how little is too little?

I'm perfectly capable of making guesses about that. And I understand, of course, the basic principle of being overpowered having fewer disadvantages than being underpowered. Most would probably advise to get a kit rated slightly above what I think I might need. And my final decision may very well come down to a guesswork scenario like this.

Still, I wanted to check whether anyone else has been doing any sort of exploration of minimal assist, such as what John Tetz did. If so, I'd really like to connect with them to try and learn more about this approach. Even just reading about their results would be helpful. I take it no one on this forum knows of any people or threads who take this sort of approach?
 
I’m doing stuff similar to what you are asking (using geared hub motors).

For me, an important realization is that once you get to the top speed of a motor, its not going to help you much beyond that. For instance if the motor runs unassisted at 15mph, it is not going to provide you much help beyond say 18mph. Beyond that you are all on your own. If you want something only for climbing hills, you could get a motor targeted for a lower speed, and just power yourself beyond that. If you want the possibility of assist all of the time, you need to find a motor that is happy running at the speeds you want to ride at.

I don’t think there is a real easy solution, unless you want to get sophisticated by a torque sensing crank. The easiest thing to do is find a motor that has a no load speed similar to your typical cruising speed. If the motor does 15mph by itself, and has a no load speed of 18mph, really any speed you choose over 15mph is split between you and the motor. If you were cruising at say 17mph, you would be doing roughly half the work, and the motor doing the other half (and helping more on the hard parts).

How little is too little? There is not really a too little, as anything will help. But if your motor has a max speed of 10mph, and you are riding 15mph, the motor is doing nothing. Really, once you get beyond the “no load” speed of the motor, it isn’t giving you assist. It depends a lot on the person, but if you are doing lots of pedaling, you can do fine on a 36v5Ah battery (which is tiny). Yeah, to some degree it is a personal question. Most people using the small 250watt motors are using minimal assist, as that motor is about as strong as a rider in average shape (in my case, my legs are a lot stronger than the motor).

Any specific questions?

Where is the info that “John Tetz” found?
 
wayover13 said:
What I've been hoping to find as I try to finalize my upgrade decision, is relevant hard data. But it's been very hard to come by, given what I'm aiming to do. There is plenty of data available about things like top speed for a particular hub motor laced into a wheel of a given size and attached to a battery of a given capacity. But data I'm not finding is what is the minimal wattage/amperage motor/battery set-up I can use? Specifically, how little is too little?

Is this any help..?
http://www.kreuzotter.de/english/espeed.htm
It will let you estimate power needed for any combination of bike, tire, weight, grade, speed, wind etc etc.
 
Can you tell us what speed you want to hold and what sort of tyres you want to run?
 
Hillhater said:
Is this any help..?
http://www.kreuzotter.de/english/espeed.htm
It will let you estimate power needed for any combination of bike, tire, weight, grade, speed, wind etc etc.
Wow, very interesting. Thanks for providing that link. I'll need to play with it a bit more so as to understand better how/whether it could benefit my upgrade project--but it sure looks promising.
 
wayover13 said:
Thank you for explaining the amperage/voltage aspects of this matter. This is something I understand rather poorly, so simplified explanations such as this are very helpful.

In short then, what's important to note is that speed and power are an inverse squared relationship. On a given set of tyres and bike it might only take you 150 watts to hold 20kph on the flat. But to get to 30kph might require 350 watts. And if you swap say smooth 28c road bike tyres for 2 inch MTB knobbies, you might now need 500 watts.

Having lots of spare power on tap and only using a portion of throttle will give you insurance against strong headwinds. A 20kph headwind versus tailwaind is a big difference in relative speed.

Are you not able to tell us what sort of bike and tyres you have in mind first?
 
Samd said:
Are you not able to tell us what sort of bike and tyres you have in mind first?
Yes, sorry I didn't respond to your previous query. I'm kind of hoping to keep this thread more topical, dealing with the principle which I'm trying to implement (minimal assist) and tending away from the particulars of my intended upgrade--this since I've already made some queries about those particulars in another thread ( http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=49154&sid=66b2bad459b25e925ceca004e818094a#p725508 ). Since I posted that thread, though, I've started to lean more toward the mid-drive option and away from the hub motor option.

But to respond at least briefly to your questions, my tires are wide-profile (1.95), high pressure (110 PSI--think Maxxis hookworms). We are recumbent tandem riders. As to top speed, as I said in that other thread, I am not looking for an assist system that will play a role in the bike's top speed. The highest speed achieved on this bike should be either on a downhill run or because we are riding on flat terrain with a strong tailwind--not because we have an electric motor assisting us. I do not intend to use assist at all on flat terrain or on downhill grades, but only for climbing. We maintain about a 13 mph pace when touring without assist, sometimes a bit higher if weather conditions are ideal, sometimes a bit lower if the wind is contrary. An 11 to 15 mph average pace while underway is fine for our purposes. But again, the only way I intend for the motor to influence that pace is by perhaps slightly increasing our speed up grades--say 7 or 8 mph rather than 5 mph.
 
This is good info now.

1.95 tyres would normally sap power, but smooth hookworms won't - and their sidewalls don't deform as much. A really good rolling tyre for the width. 110 PSI moreso.

Recumbent tandem is a big factor, you will need less rolling power than most, and little power available for headwinds, as you have a low frontal drag.

Either a smaller geared hub or middrive will be enough for you I'd say to get started as you can easily find say a 500W capable hub and throttle it to 150W-200W and see how you go, then increase as needed. Not sure all middrives will have a top speed to suit a trike's ratios, but there are people here who know a lot more than me about that!
 
Wayover13, I currently own and operate both throttle-only and torque-assist systems and find that I much prefer torque assist. I believe it is the best way to achieve "true assist". It feels so natural that no thought or particular skill/coordination is required to operate the bike. You will also have the option to dial in the amount of assistance that you want or to turn it off altogether.

I would advise setting a higher speed goal for uphill riding. Otherwise, you will risk burning out a small hub motor because it becomes inefficient at low rpms and generates a lot of waste heat. Even a small amount of electric assist with moderate pedaling should get you in the 10-12 mph range on most but the steepest hills, especially on a recumbent with its low wind resistance. Mid-drive systems work well at low speeds, buy you will need to consider if the complexity of installation and potentially greater noise levels from a mid-drive system would be worth it.

I have been experimenting with a Chinese e-bike kit that integrates a rear, geared hub motor with a built-in torque sensor, a sine-wave controller (for quiet operation), and an LCD display. By pressing a button on the display you can, on-the-fly, choose from 6 levels of assistance from no assist to full power assist. The system I purchased has a top speed of 17-18 mph and operates at 350W continuous to 700W peaks. It is similar in concept to the BionX system except that it, being a geared hub, lacks regen. This kit is much less expensive than BionX - about $400 (w/o battery) including shipping to the USA. Add another $300 to $400 for a modest capacity battery. I found the kit very easy to install - it took me one afternoon to get it up and running. The motor is very quiet on the road - in fact a friend commented that it make less noise than a bike with knobby tires would.

You can view my build thread here: http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=46608. Yes, I did burn out the motor and had to replace it, but I think I would have burned out any motor of similar size on the brutal hills that I have to navigate. The sales manager of Minshine Electronics, with whom I have frequent contact, tells me that his company is developing a temperature sensor to fit inside the motor and link to the display which will then reduce current before the motor gets too hot. When that feature becomes available, likely this summer, the Minshine kit will, as far as I know, be the most technologically advanced Chinese e-bike conversion kit available on the market. The kit is available in different no-load rpms for different wheel sizes down to 20 inch, so it should work with your tandem recumbent. If you are interested I can give you more info via PM.

Best of luck to you on your quest!
 
As far as not using the motor constantly while pedaling, why not just install an on/off switch up on the handlebar? You flip it on when you want to use it and off when you don't.
 
You can get this minimal assist by taking any hub motor and running it on a super low amount of amps, for a max of 250w.
There is no genius or mystery to it :)

What i do, is i have a high power setup, but i have a 3 speed switch that coincides with my best pedaling cadence in each gear on my bike. I can get an excellent workout and excellent range out of this setup. A mid drive would indeed be better, though a decent one is really, really expensive..
 
Exactly. For your needs, all you would really need is a low speed winding motor a throttle and a wattmeter. Then you can simply choose to use any watt level from 50 or so on up.


A MAC 12t model would likely be ideal, in a smaller diameter wheel, it would be hard to get any assist past about 15 mph or so. But climbing a very steep hill, perhaps using 500w or more, it wouldn't be so prone to cooking itself from running as slow as you will prefer. You can run it on a controller with the amps limited to any number you like, it doesn't have too be 20 amps or more. A stock 20 amps controller usually has two shunts, it can be as simple as clipping one to half your amps.

Then, if you wish, you can make it less dependent on user active throttle control by adding anything from a simple cruise control, a three speed switch and cruise control, or a crude pedelec sensor combined with a three speed switch.

Or if you really want a lot of sophistication, you could buy a newest model Cycleanalyst, and get a torque sensing crank to plug into it. That's likely what you really want. You keep talking about "true assist". But I think you really mean, "assist without having to think about it".

However, if you have much variation in terrain, you might find yourself constantly flicking back and forth between assist levels depending on the grade anyway. If you don't have terrain changes, then a simple cruise control can work fine.

But I will keep saying it over and over. TRUE ASSIST is just a matter of gaining control over your throttle hand. Nobody is forcing you to use more power than you want. It just takes most people some time to get used to using a throttle, particularly if they never spent years riding motorcycles. Learn to use a throttle correctly, and you have the most sophisticated infinitely variable true assist there can possibly be. It's controlled by a computer with a lot of capacity, your brain.

Sometimes I blow a lot of talk here, or maybe all the time. :roll: But it's backed up by more than 10,000 miles of riding with motors. My experience is not one days commuter repeated 1000 times either. I've done the race track, the commute, the dirt trails, and the 70 mile a day tours.

On the long distance days, I use a really sophisticated method. I jam my bar grip against the half throttle, so it sticks where I set it. Then I ride along for 20 miles or so, without thinking about a thing.
 
wayover13 said:
I do not intend to use assist at all on flat terrain or on downhill grades, but only for climbing. We maintain about a 13 mph pace when touring without assist, sometimes a bit higher if weather conditions are ideal, sometimes a bit lower if the wind is contrary. An 11 to 15 mph average pace while underway is fine for our purposes. But again, the only way I intend for the motor to influence that pace is by perhaps slightly increasing our speed up grades--say 7 or 8 mph rather than 5 mph.

My touring pace is similar to yours, but riding solo (and being less fit) I need occasional assistance on the flat too. I find I use about 5 watt hours per km, plus 40 for every 100 metres of climbing. I have a 36v gear hub limited to 15 amps, and the peak wattage on my Cycleanalyst is actually a little under 500. That works very well for climbs where I can maintain 10 mph, but below that I'm very conscious that increased resistance is met by decreased assistance.

If you only use power for slow climbing then your requirements are easy to calculate: power is roughly proportional to speed. To climb at 7 mph instead of 5 you need 40% more power. Two fit people together can maintain maybe 350 watts on a long climb, so you need a motor that will produce 140 watts at the wheel.

Another way to look at it is that you want to reduce your effective weight by 40%. No matter how efficient your system is, no battery can lift more than 3kg 100 metres for one watt hour.
 
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